New London restaurants

[Wilfrid]

I have a number of dining opportunities coming up in London in early May, and I need to try some new places.  By new, I mean, I suppose, opened within the last two years.  I used to live in London, so if the restaurant is older than that, the chances are that I've either been, or didn't want to go, or know about it but just haven't got around to it.

What new delights await me?  Up market and formal are fine, and there must be meat on the menu.

And as an aside, has L'Auberge de Provence in te St James's Hotel closed?  That was one of the unsung excellent restaurants of London, but I don't see listings for it anywhere.

[tony h]

I am particularly fond of Capital, Basil Street just now.  Eric Chavot is the chef - the flavours are sublime.

[Wilfrid]

Good one.  I ate at the Capital when Britten cooked there, and ate Chavot's food way back at a couple of the places he was at for a while.  Interlude de Chavot was one (I cringe still at the name), I can't remember the other.  This is one for the list.

[Scottf]

I'd 2nd The Capital, the set lunch must be the best deal in London right now.  I believe Simon's there tonight so his feedback on dinner should be interesting.

Another suggestion is La Trompette, that quite a few of us have been to recently (and I'm sure you've seen today's thread).  Excellent value/quality ratio.

[macrosan]

I don't know when it opened, Wilfrid, but what about Club Gascon? There have been good reports here, and since it's on my "soon to do" list I'd be interested in your report. In fact, if you're looking for a dining companion, I'd be happy to join you  

[Simon Majumdar]

damn

I am doing the NY/Texas and New Orleans thing then or I would love to join you

S

[tony h]

I've just had lunch at the English Garden (I got hungry from reading Simon's Capital review but knew if I went there I'd blow a fortune).

Superb.  Substantial starter of guinea fowl ravioli with sage.  Main of cod & potato dauphinoise which was more like a creamy rosti - wonderfully meaty & perfectly cooked.  Desert of coconut panacotta & pineapple - lovely texture with hint of coconut on the finish.   £19.50

The restaurant was slightly odd & quite empty (only 5 other tables occupied).  I suspect it works better in the evening.  It’s a Richard Corrigan establishment (I didn’t catch the chef's name).  Worth a visit.

[Scottf]

The English Garden gets a good right up in The Time Out guide and I'd wondered if anyone had been yet.  I think the TO review also mentioned it was pretty empty too.

Certainly sounds interesting.

[circeplum]

embassy, where garry hollihead is cooking, is pretty good despite reports of his intractable behaviour.  it's kind of unreconstructed, classical cooking - my lobster newburg was splendid: rich, creamy, tender with flawless home-made tagliolini.  

wapping food i love for it's bizarre setting - a power station that looks as though they ran out of money half way thru the conversion but opened anyway.  massive chunks of old machinery still litter the place. the food is good too, and there's an interesting all-australian wine list.

if you can score a table at locanda locatelli, don't miss.

[Tonyfinch]

I second Embassy

I live literally 20 yards from Wapping Food and have therefore eaten there several times.I have to say this is more out of convenience than anything else. The setting is amusing and the all Aussie wine list is interesting.The food,however can be very hit and miss and is quite expensive for the standard provided.The worst part of it though is that you may be told to shut up for a hefty part of your meal in order to defer to some awful "performance art" which the cooperative who run the arty side of the place clearly deem more important than good food,wine and conversation.

On one occasion some twat blew into various tubas FOR 50 MINS.,making a f..k of a racket while we all sat embarrassed  silence.Even the waiters were embarrassed.If you go there phone to check you won't have to put up with this sort of thing.

[Miss J]

I went to Wapping Food a few weeks ago, and while the food was good the service was a bit inexperienced. It very much felt as though they'd hired their server for his looks and Aussie accent (matches the wine list, dont'cha know) rather than anything they found on his CV. But then, it was lunchtime...maybe he was being trained?

Miss J

[Wilfrid]

Thanks for the tips.  The Capital sounds like a must, and the Embassy also appeals.  I am hesitant about the English Garden - Corrigan's other restaurant, the Lindsay House, used to be a favorite, but it seems to have dipped noticeably in quality.  Of course, it could be that he's paying more attention to the English Garden.

[Andy Lynes]

And as an aside, has L'Auberge de Provence in te St James's Hotel closed?  That was one of the unsung excellent restaurants of London, but I don't see listings for it anywhere.

It's now Quilon, have a look here

[Wilfrid]

Sad.  I agreed with the comment that the Auberge looked like a seventies trattoria, but I had some quite fantastic dinners there.  It had some kind of relationship with Oustau la Baumaniere, and was carrying out about as convincing a version of upscale Provencale cooking as I've ever found in London.

Never mind...

[Andy Lynes]

Wilfrid - I should have some further info on The Embassy for you on Thursday. I was meant to be going with Bruce Poole tomorrow (Wednesday) but he has already been and disliked it enough not to want to set foot in the place again, although he did like the food. Instead we are dining at The Square so I will get the full sp and let you know.

I would recommend Westreet as a good eveings entertainment if not culinary revelation. La Trompette (a Poole/Platts Martin production)  is worth the schlep out to Turnham green. Loconda Locatelli is the current hot ticket (haven't been yet) and Henry Harris' new place should be well worth a punt. I am in the metaphorical queue, Star Wars fan like, already so I should be able to give you the low down soon after it opens in May (yes, I do know Henry, but that's not his fault).

The Orrery is shit hot at the moment as long as you don't mind getting intimate with the next door table (also true at Trompette).

[Simon Majumdar]

Andy

Couple of questions

1) What was it that Poole disliked so much about Embassy.  I thought the room was a little airport loungeish but that was not too hateful

2) The Orrery - I thought all the gang there had gone to the really rather wretched Almeida?  Why is it so "shit hot" in your view

Hey!  I just got through an entire post to you without pulling you up for your Poole/Harris/Lynes menage a Trois.  damn

[Andy Lynes]

I'll answer your first question tomorrow, but The Orrery is currently on form, dishing up some of the best French food I have had since Petrus. Chris Galvin is still very much in charge and delivering on his Michelin star. Service is very professional but warm. I will get around to a full review very soon, promise.

[Wilfrid]

Thanks, Andy.  I am currently confused about the Embassy, as the only reference I can find is to the old nightclub, which was members only.  Is that where Hollihead is cooking now?  Anyway, I'm sure all will become clear.

The Square is not new to me, but I haven't been in a while.  Worth considering.

The Capital:  oooff!  I am accustomed to Manhattan prices, but their tasting menu is coming in at $94 per head at today's exchange rate.  That makes it more expensive than most top line New York restaurants, such as Jean-Georges.  Lespinasse and, of course, Alain Ducasse are well over $100 of course.  Still, I'm surprised.Chavot's menus

[magnolia]

As of this review (undated, however) Embassy is indeed where Hollihead is...this is from Square Meal, not really a guide but a listing.

 

Address 29, Old Burlington Street, W1X 3AN  

Tel 020 7437 9933

Email sabera@embassybarandgrill.com  

Price £42.00 Wine £13.50  Champagne £32.00

 

Embassy opened at the beginning of December to wide early praise, with opinion ranging from 'good' to 'brilliant'. The reintroduction of Gary Hollihead (ex-Mortons, L'Escargot and Sutherlands) to the culinary mainstream following less high-brow stints at Sugar Reef and Red Cube is certainly good news for foodies, as his cooking never fails to demonstrate depth and technical sophistication. Here his approach fits neatly into a relatively formal, classical canon, balancing delicacy with ample levels of robustness. An understated cauliflower and truffle soup packs a lusciously flavourful punch while monkfish tail garnished with onions, potatoes and winter vegetables is delightfully muscular and finished with creamed spinach and an oxtail jus. Portions, if anything, are over-generous, which is a pity if it means little room is left for a dessert such as rice pudding jubilee served with a cherry compôte. The main dining-room, which is run separately to the über-fashionable club below, is seductive and contemporary, overlooking the same street as neighbouring Cecconis, and the staff are obviously knowledgeable and well versed. Looks set to do well.

[Wilfrid]

Thanks, magnolia, I understand now.

[cabrales]

Wilfrid & magnolia -- Another sign of my being influenced by things eGullet is that I am going to Embassy tonight in view of the discussion on this thread. I'll report back in a couple of hours, after an early dinner.  

Later update: I had a good meal, reported under the pre-existing "Go to Embassy" thread.

[Andy Lynes]

Over dinner at The Square last night I established that Mr Pooles dislike of The Embassy was entirely due to the front of house style, which simply got on his nerves. He said he couldn't wait to leave, although the food was very good. His main objection seems to be that there were vast armies of meeters and greeters swanning around in smart suits looking pleased with themselves, and not enough people actually waiting tables. That was it really, so it just seems like it wasn't his sort of place.

[cabrales]

Over dinner at The Square last night I established that Mr Pooles dislike of The Embassy was entirely due to the front of house style, which simply got on his nerves. He said he couldn't wait to leave, although the food was very good. His main objection seems to be that there were vast armies of meeters and greeters swanning around in smart suits looking pleased with themselves, and not enough people actually waiting tables. That was it really, so it just seems like it wasn't his sort of place.

Andy -- The restaurant was less than 50% full last night, although the bar area adjacent to the restaurant (not those in the club area) was more packed. Perhaps the fact that it was a Wednesday night helped the service. There were indeed a lot of people dressed in black greeting guests, in addition to the bouncer-types outside. The atmospherics of the place would ordinarily suggest a certain lack of seriousness gastronomically (e.g., ropes to presumably control the non-existent crowds outside the restaurant/club shared entryway), although the food was quite good.

[Wilfrid]

When you have an opportunity Cabrales, I would love to hear more about the food.

[cabrales]

Wilfrid -- It's here under the "Go to Embassy" thread in this forum. You know I'd try not to be delinquent with respect to the most important part -- the cuisine, especially since you are deciding among restaurants.