Islam's affect on Cuisine

[Pan]

Adam, thanks for the information about the derivation of the word laksa. I had no idea.

Andrew, pigs are very commonly raised by sedentary non-Muslim populations in Malaysia and Indonesia. Bali, where babi guling (very spicy long-roasted -- really, sort of barbecued -- pork) is a delicacy, has been mentioned, but I believe that almost every other non-Muslim people in the region eats pork. I was a guest at a second burial (a kind of celebration that occurs about 60 years after a person's death) in the Toba Batak land in Sumatra in the 1970s, and the main dish was two slow fire-roasted pigs, again very spicy.

Adam again, I was under the vague impression that in ancient times, the Canaanite farmers raised pigs, whereas the Jewish pastoralists raised sheep, and that the prohibition on Jews eating pig meat was in part a way to distinguish them from the neighboring non-Jews (much as is the case with the prohibition on eating a "kid seethed in its mother's milk," a dish that still exists among non-Jews in the Middle East and North Africa). Please disabuse me of this notion if it's incorrect.

[Andrew Fenton]

Andrew, pigs are very commonly raised by sedentary non-Muslim populations in Malaysia and Indonesia. Bali, where babi guling (very spicy long-roasted -- really, sort of barbecued -- pork) is a delicacy, has been mentioned, but I believe that almost every other non-Muslim people in the region eats pork. I was a guest at a second burial (a kind of celebration that occurs about 60 years after a person's death) in the Toba Batak land in Sumatra in the 1970s, and the main dish was two slow fire-roasted pigs, again very spicy.

Excellent. It warms my heart to hear about the universality of barbecue; thanks for passing along that information.

As to the origins of the prohibition against pig meat among Jews and Muslims, I have the sense that there are a lot of different theories and not much consensus. Certainly as you say, it's a way to differentiate oneself from outsiders (I have a vague memory that kid in mother's milk was a favorite dish of one of Jews' rival tribes: the Amelekites or one of that bunch); so that would be an example of religion driving food culture.

But there are other theories: for example, the anthropologist Marvin Harris published an essay in the 70's in which he argued that the prohibition on pork was based on the inefficiency of raising pigs in the Middle East. Sheep and cows were a better protein source, and this practical solution became codified through religion. If Harris is right (and I confess that I haven't read the essay since I was an undergrad ten years ago, and have no clue as to his scholarly reputation today) then in this case, then it's food culture that drove religion.

[Steve Klc]

Ferran Adria:

I believe that the kitchen to be rediscovered is that coming from Islamic countries: the Magreb, Libano, ... It had a very important influence in the past that we've forgotten

From his eGullet Q&A.

[Daniel Rogov]

It is clear that the impact of all major religions is reflected in cooking and dining habits, but it is equally clear that dishes and culinary styles are more often related to a more complex set of factors - physical setting (e.g. a lush area or an arid dessert area), cultural and historical elements, local taboos, local and not local definitions of one's enemies, economic well being, available ingredients,etc,etc.

The impact of Islam on many factors including science and the arts is enormous and so has it been on the culinary life. I cannot help but think, however, that there is any more of a uniform Islamic cuisine than there is a Jewish or a Budhist or Christian cuisine.

Certainly the dietary laws (halal) have had an impact on what Moslems the world over eat and do not eat, as have the laws of kashrut been important to Jews. Those laws however may have given certain limitations but certainly not contributed to a culinary style or cuisine. The couscous of the Maghreb has no more in common with the chicken pies of Lebanon than gefilte fish has in common with chriame.

Even more than this, it is difficult enough to say that there are "national cuisines". There are indeed certain commonalities shared by members of a faith or a nation but the true charm of full cuisine is in its diversity rather than its sameness. Leaving religion aside,look merely at thehuge differences from region to region within France of the dish known as cassoulet.

And to those who may answer by pointing out that there is indeed a Jewish kitchen, let me remind us all that generally that titleis given to the Jewish kitchen of Central Europe. Let us also remember though that the dishes of the Jews of Iraq, of Ethiopia, and of Spain are no lessJewish. So it is with the Moslems of various North African, African, Mediterranean and Far Eastern nations.

[Adam Balic]

I would agree that there is little evidence for something as monolithic as an "Islamic cuisine" anymore then there is a "Christian cuisine" (although I'm sure that it would be possible to find specific examples of dishes that fit the critieria for this if one cared to look hard enough). But, the culinary contribution of a nation or culture may not be about specific dishes or even an identifiable cuisine.

I would say that Islam has been a great communicator and transmitter of food culture I can't even conceive of what world food would look like with out the contribution of Islam.