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Daniel Rogov

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Everything posted by Daniel Rogov

  1. Shorthand systems for making wine notes are always idiosyncratic to the person making those notes. More that, they develop over a span of years. Best bet is to start off making a short list of what I call top-line factual items that you consider essential to your review (e.g. color, body, tannins, acidity, etc), assigning each of those a number and then making up a sublist of possibilities: e.g. Color = 1. Light ruby = a; Medium ruby = b; and on and on to ruby towards garnet; garnet towards royal purple, etc, etc. Body Light = a; light-medium= b; medium= c etc.... Also t
  2. You do have a problem. Most truly fine shawarma is made from lamb and chicken, although somewhat lower in cholesterol, is considered distinctlly second-class. If ever I am elected prime-minister of Israel, president of Egypt or made king of any country in which shwarma is served I can assure you that the first thing I will do is to make chicken shwarma a felony offense. I do exaggerate. But believe me, not by much. Best (albeit smiling) Rogov
  3. For those who may be interested, my guide to recommended restaurants in Israel is now on line in two parts. Part I: Tel Aviv http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/villag...hp?f=30&t=16960 Part II: The Rest of Israel: http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/villag...hp?f=30&t=16961
  4. Not for gourmet food but one of the most "fun" festivals - the annual Chile championships at Terralingua, Texas. Also just for fun, the annual garlic festival in Gilroy, California.
  5. Rich, Hi.... If you can hold for about one week, my updated guide to Israeli restaurants (appearrs weekly in HaAretz newspaper) will be on line and I will post a link to that. If more urgent than that, drop me a line to drogov@cheerful.com
  6. Reflecting on the krembo and my comments above and realizing that at least several chefs (especially thinking of talented chef Eran Shroitman of Tel Aviv's Orca) have come up with very sophisticated variations on the theme of that famed fast-food snack to create rather enchanting desserts in their restaurants. Those desserts are ordered primarily by the 25-35 year olds who attend fine restaurants. Their elders continue to go for less playful options.
  7. One does hate to be a curmudgeon but there is a clear historical reason why women tend to be pastry chefs. Until the days of the French revolution there were taverns and auberges but no restaurants as we know the today, most of the fine cookery taking place in the homes of royalty, the landed gentry and the weatlthy. Informally from the time of Lucullus (ancient Rome) and certainly formally starting in the Middle-Ages, men were responsible for forming the guilds of chefs and, in order tn to protect theiir perceived "turf" those guilds were closed to women. The slot that was left open in kitch
  8. Apologies first for not seeing this thread earlier. Apologies second for shattering a few myths........ 1. The Israeli Krembo was indeed a rip-off of the American Malomar cookie. Unlike Malomars, however, that are supposed to appeal to adults and children alie, the Krembo was originally targeted at the 3-9 year old crowd When first released even Strauss (a mega-food producer by Israeli standards) was astonished to realize that anyone over the mental age of 5 could enjoy them. 2. Indeed the mashmallow (and not meringue!) filling of the Krembo is far softer (one might say "more mushy" ) tha
  9. A vast love of food A vast love for the relationships between food, psychology, philosophy, sociology, anthropology, history and literature At first spending just about every franc I had in restaurants A great deal of good luck.
  10. Trek, Hello..... Let me disagree with two of your premises, the first being that a great many chefs are "divorced, alcoholics, drug addicts or never see their kids". That is no more true for chefs than it is for doctors, lawyers, engineers, restaurant critics or business-people in general. Second, let me disagree that cooking kosher is "so limiting". That is true only with mediocre chefs of little imagination. It is true that there will be certain ingredients and combinations you will not be able to use and that is precisely the challenge - preparing high-quality dishes of interest not by
  11. Two perhaps silly questions: 1. It is my understanding that many vegans object to the use of eggs in any form and quite a few wines are fined with egg whites. Will this be a problem? 2. Do the wines have to be organic?
  12. Given a pleasant evening or afternoon and a fine view, even if it is only of the town squqre, dining out-of-doors can be one of life's great pleasures. Many of the world's best restaurants justifiably boast about the terraces on which one can dine and wherever one travels, much of the finest bistro, trattoria and tavernna style dining is done en plein air.
  13. Scout's honor, I did not even know it was forbidden to bring some cheeses or meats into the USA, but have never missed the opportunity to bring back fine samples for friends and family. I've always declared the excess wine I bring in (usually 4 - 6 bottles more than the limit) but have never been charged a cent for those. And never been stopped at American customs..... I suppose I live right.
  14. Great topic. I suppose over a lifetime of dining and hunting up foodstuffs, I've brought almot everything you can think of in my baggege. My one limit is bringing anything that might prove dangerous (e.g. plants or vegetables that might contain viruses or insects that could harm the ecology). Best story was during the period when it was illegal to import cheese into Israel. Came back with about 8 kilos of Parmigiano Reggiano and was stopped at the customs desk. Was told that cheese couldn't be brought in. I looked at the inspector with astonishment and told him it wasn't a cheese, it w
  15. Should anyone be interested in an article on the history of such restaurant guides (and a criticism of those guides), see my little piece at http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/mini_guide_rest.html
  16. As might be said "in the beginning" (that is to say for the first twenty years after the guide was published) those were referred to as "rosettes". The term stars came into use only after the Americans started to buy the book in large quantities.
  17. The pecan is indeed a North America/Central American tree but it is part of the hickory family. It was the hickory that was grown in Egypt but considering that hickory nuts themselves are a bit too bitter for modern tastes, the pecan seems a reasonable substittue.
  18. If you want to stay away from "shmaltz" (in the metaphoric and not culinary sense), keep in mind that Joseph dined not on "Jewish food" which was thousands of years away from being devised during his time, but on Egyptian. Consider the following: Everybody knows that the ancient Egyptians were superb mathematicians and engineers. This was the land in which geometry was born and where the pyramids were built. Not nearly as many are aware of the enormous contribution to modern dining habits made by these same people. About 5,000 years ago, Egyptians bakers discovered the secret of leavening.
  19. Several questions raised here, but nothing new. Among the questions, the issue of being overweight as to being obese; the question of additives; and the overall issue of defining addiction. To the best of my knowledge the first person to write about the question of obesity was Lucullus who bemoaned "our too plump soldiers who grow weary in climbing even the smallest of hills". And since then, the world has heard on a daily basis about the "problems" of being overweight. A bit later on Dickens complaned about "clerks with too much weight to carry", Melville wrote about "sailors too sated to
  20. Some ask: "Is there life after death?" Others, perhaps more cynical ask "Is there life after birth?" Gastronomes, the most realistic of all people ask "Is there life without bacon?" With regard to the first, my opinion is "almost certainly not" With regard to the second, "depends on the life" With regard to the third, "most certainly not!"
  21. Bravo, Felice.....Your post is precisely to the point.
  22. No one even moderately left of Genghis Khan would disagree with the concept of "good, clean and fair". One of the questions is whether such positive thoughts needs a movement and another of whether the movement is truly effective or merely a self-reinforcing, self-supporting group convincing themselves of their fine behavior. As to grass roots - heck, I'm all for that but even here questions remain - those relting to whether small, artisanal producers can feed the world; whether transporting people from various settings, some tribal and some even feudal, to Italy periodically in order for the
  23. Devotay, Hello… A debate such as we have entered into would be more appropriate for a serious week-long symposium than an exchange of posts on a discussion forum. I will, thus, not enter fully into the debate at this time but will simply respond to several of the points in your own post (above) that was addressed to me. 1. My comments were not directed at you personally but at the movement in general. 2. Those comments were not meant to be "insulting". Nor were they meant as an attack. Their onlygoal was to raise a set of important issues with regard to the movement. 3. As to those who ar
  24. Cannot speak to precisely how amba made its way to Egypt, Lebanon and Syria where it is sometimes found, but no mystery at all of how it made its way to Israel - like so many of the dishes here, amba made its way with immigrants from India where the sauce originated. As to use - with street foods such as felafel and shwarma it will be found at almost every stanyd; in simpler but often quite good restaurants speciaizing in kebabs, hishliks, grilled sausages; and even in use with fine chefs whose presentation is a combination of their own cultural roots, local ingredients and sophisticated coo
  25. I did, honestly, I did try to keep my mouth shut on this but finally, need wins: Has anyone noticed that the Slow Food Movement is taking on a cult status.... Among the symptoms: Agreement with the leader, even when his statements sometimes are little more than cliches; an attack on those who disagree with the principles of the movement; and devotion to the movement even when/if it goes beyond logic. And do let us please keep in mind Dr. Johnson's axiom to the effect that "the road to Hell is paved with good intentions".
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