Heads Up Georgia! DeKalb Market

[Tonyy13]

Thought I would help some of you out there who might not know about a jewel of a market that you have in Georgia, just outside of Atlanta. The name of it is the DeKalb Farmers Market, and I must tell you, if you live within a few hours of driving distance, it is worth the drive. I read about it in a book called Best of Food Writing 2004 (awesome book, check it out if you can), and it sounded interesting, so when I went to GA for Thanksgiving this week, we decided to go and see what all the buzz was about in the article. I have to tell you, as a chef, I was truly inspired, as I always am when I see great food products. The produce was cool, found snow pea tendrils (a little bit bigger than their sprintime cousin, and not as sweet, but great for a salad nonetheless), fresh horseradish (perhaps the freshest that I have ever used), black trumpet mushrooms, hedgehog mushrooms, king oyster mushrooms, chanterelle mushrooms, and maitake mushrooms (in case you couldn't tell, I am a bit of a mushroom nut ). The Arkansas Black apples I bought looked great (better than they tasted, unfortunately for the apple that I have been told is the best of the country ), and the pink lady apples were awesome all around. Meyer lemons, and citrus looked good, but pricey (darn hurricanes). The seafood is a pretty cool thing, I didn't get any, but it looked like you could get about a dozen kinds either frozen, fresh, or live, with about another 2 dozen available dressed and fresh. The only bummer about the seafood was that they only sold me my oysters by the pound, rather than the each, so the better canadian oysters were much more than the florida ones that I bought (about twice the price, and although the Canadian were better, they weren't as good as the farm raised domestics that I have had). They post their shellfish tags (something that you have to keep on file for 90 days, but somethign that I have never seen posted, I really like the idea), which was cool. I brought my cam in order to take pics, but there was a sign posted saying no photos (SORRY!!!! ) Anyway, if anyone else has any other great stories about the place, or any questions that I might be able to answer (I have only been there once, but would love to help out if I can), let me know. Thanks, and I can't wait to hear about your adventures at the market!!

[tryska]

I love DFM.

they carry some off the wall items i need (chicken hearts for example) and i love wandering about in the produce.

their croissants disappoint me, but it's more than made up for by the produce, grass-fed beef, and seafood.

[rl1856]

I lived in Atl for a long time and made frequent use of the DFM. For a long time it was the only place to find various exotic items in the city. Quality was top notch and prices were dirt cheap. I was particularly fond of their dried spices.

Backround- the DFM was founded by Harry Glazer (Harry's Farmers Market) and his brother to bring exotic fresh food to Atlanta. Harry and his brother had a falling out and agreed to split up, with the brother keeping the DFM and Harry going to another part of the city. The DFM was/is in a seedy part of the city and it's decor left something to be desired. It was the antithesis of what would appeal to an upscale client with money to spend (this was the late 80's early 90's).

Harry eventually opened up Harry's Farmer's Market in Alpharetta GA (about as far removed geographicly and demographically from the DFM as you can get) that which was widely successfull. It was the DFM, but cleaned up, with bright lights and shiny surfaces designed to appeal to suburban gourmets. Harry was correct, upsale clients flocked to Harry's even though it was essentially a cleaned up version of the DFM. Within a few years, there were several "Harry's" around the city along with 6 "Harry's In a Hurry". These were quick stop places that offered upscale urbanites prepared foods, basic produce and a focused wine selection. While the business generated lots of cashflow, Harry was not a good businessman and the company never made a profit. Harry was a good salesman and his company generated a buzz around the city. Harry's went public via an IPO making Harry quite wealthy. The only problem was that even after the IPO and the capital infusion, the company still could not turn a profit ! Eventually the company was forced to file for bankruptsy and the core assets were purchased by Whole Foods.

Best,

Ross

[Tonyy13]

Woa, I think that we have former personal friends of Harry's here posting!!! Anyway, yah, read the story in the Best of Food Writing 2004! Too bad about a great market like Harry's going bankrupt!

[rl1856]

I'm neither a friend of Harry Glazer, nor even an aquaintance, though I did know a few of the bankers that handled the IPO. What I related was common knowledge in Atlanta. The Bankruptcy and sale took place in 1997-98.

Best,

Ross

[Ari]

I recently did a piece about the DFM, too. It's here.

[Gifted Gourmet]

I, for one, am most impressed, Ari Shapiro! You really got it just right! Slam dunk!!

[Ari]

I, for one, am most impressed, Ari Shapiro! You really got it just right! Slam dunk!!

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Thanks! And I have to give a special shout out to Tryska, who joined me on my first ever pilgrimage to the DFM.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Thanks!  And I have to give a special shout out to Tryska, who joined me on my first ever pilgrimage to the DFM.

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Now I actually do remember your discussion with Tryska about going to the DFM in Avondale ... it is quite a place! Not very close to where I live but well worth the drive for some special items and produce from time to time! Thanks, Ari again!

[Busboy]

I finally made it to the Dekalb Farmer's Market this week, while visiting mom and dad in Dunwoody. What a great place! Acres of odd roots (fresh galangal!), exotic tubers, fresh greens, organic fruits and herb bundles, quite cheap. I would love to see the place in August instead of December.

The sheer variety of fresh ingredients is extraordinary; I'm well-versed enough -- and enough of a snob -- to be most impressed when an establishment lays out stuff that I don't have the vaguest idea what it is, especially when they do it by the bin-ful. At the DFM, the temptation lurk about for the opportunity to tug at the shoulder of someone in African or Caribbean garb and say "no offense, but what the heck to do you do with that?" is almost overwhelming.

I enjoyed Ari's piece, but it should be added that the seafood section offers far more than live blue crabs: lobsters, catfish, trout and maybe more are also available. Next time, I'm bringing a net. In addition, there's a decent cheese selection, a grain choice that rivals or exceeds Whole Foods' vaunted bins, and pasta in every shape.

I wasn't impressed with the meat selection, and the bakery seemed to be only half-way up the supermarket-to-boulangerie scale but heck, no place is perfect.

For the record we bought basil pine nuts and spinach pasta for a little off-season pesto, and good quality scallops which we served with polenta and a little grapefruit buerre blanc. Oh, and I gambled sixty cents on for little octupi, which I'd been pining for since summer and can't recall ever seeing in a US market.

Good stuff, y'all.

Edited December 31, 2004 by Busboy (log)

[davidthomas8779]

  At the DFM, the temptation lurk about for the opportunity to tug at the shoulder of someone in African or Caribbean garb and say "no offense, but what the heck to do you do with that?" is almost overwhelming.

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I haven't gotten smacked yet when doing this and have gotten interesting explanations.

[Ari]

  At the DFM, the temptation lurk about for the opportunity to tug at the shoulder of someone in African or Caribbean garb and say "no offense, but what the heck to do you do with that?" is almost overwhelming.

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I haven't gotten smacked yet when doing this and have gotten interesting explanations.

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I think the DFM owners found this to be a common trend, so they created something called the Cooking Arts Network. They encourage their customers to sign up as either "teachers" who are well-versed in a particular cuisine, or as "students," who want to learn. On the appointed day, the teachers all get free access to the DFM products and cook for the benefit of the students. Then everyone eats all the foods that everyone's made. I wasn't able to attend one of these, but they sound like a great idea.

[Gifted Gourmet]

I think the DFM owners found this to be a common trend, so they created something called the Cooking Arts Network.  They encourage their customers to sign up as either "teachers" who are well-versed in a particular cuisine, or as "students," who want to learn.  On the appointed day, the teachers all get free access to the DFM products and cook for the benefit of the students.  Then everyone eats all the foods that everyone's made.  I wasn't able to attend one of these, but they sound like a great idea.

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Great concept and, if it is successful, everyone derives the benefits! Thanks for mentioning this, Ari! This is why the DFM receives the praise it does ...

[LoveToEatATL]

little grapefruit buerre blanc

Bus...would you mind posting that recipe? Sounds divine.

I adore the DFM - it is the coolest. For the best experience, try to go either very early in the a.m. or on a weeknight. Then you actually have room to breathe.

The weekends are soooooo crowded.

[Busboy]

little grapefruit buerre blanc

Bus...would you mind posting that recipe? Sounds divine.

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If you've made buerre blancs before, basically, it's taking whatever buerre blanc recipe you like and substituting grapfruit juice for the vinegar.

I mostly eyeball my measurements, so don't hold me to this:

dice a shallot into a shallow pan or small pot

add:

2 tbsp white wine

2 tbsp fresh grapefruit juice with the pulp strained out

cook at low heat until virtually all the liquid is gone

Add a stick of butter, cut up and chilled, on piece at a time, stirring and keeping it hot enough to melt but not hot enough to separate. A lot of people do this part over a double boiler.

Strain out the shallots and keep sauce warm.

Add gently procurred (so the little juice pouches aren't smooshed) bits of grapefruit pulp at will or, as I did, scoop it on top of whatever you're serving in modest but significant quantity.

[Collins]

Went to the DFM last weekend - was able to get sweetbreads which were absolutely fantastic!

Have not been able to find them anywhere else, so I was thrilled they had a section selling offal...believe they had calves brains as well (I'd be interested in any recipes anyone had...I'll give anything a try!), along with the usual kidneys, livers, etc.

It's definitely worth taking an hour or more and just rummaging through everything - I have a hard time focusing on what I intended to buy...too many ideas kept popping in my head!

[Gifted Gourmet]

It's definitely worth taking an hour or more and just rummaging through everything - I have a hard time focusing on what I intended to buy...too many ideas kept popping in my head!

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Welcome to the Southeast Forum of eGullet, Collins!

You have just given me the newest agenda for today, although it is extremely cold outside, I now realize that I need to get myself over to the DeKalb Farmers' Market yet again for inspiration ... that never seems to happen to me at either Publix or Kroger!

Thanks again and hope to see more of your posts here!

[wrek92]

All this talk about DFM brings back of a lot of memories. My first time there was in the summer of 1985 when my parents and I came up from Florida to check out the campus at Georgia Tech. I remember my Mom getting us these HUGE California peaches the size of baseballs. My parents also got a whole case of Asian pears. Back in the mid-80s you just couldnt get that kind of produce in central FLorida.

I can definitely understand Ari's piece about people coming in from other states to get produce there. Absolutely outstanding selection of goods. Where else can you pick up a sack of Kokuho Rose rice from California, Chinese Broccoli, all kinds of olive oils, live blue crabs, pate, all kinds of breads from challah to rosemary naan, and rocky mountain oysters?

Anyhow, I ended up going to Georgia Tech and on Sundays since I went to church in Avondale I would always swing by DFM and pick up some fruit and the occasional baguette/mini-baguette with pate from their deli. Btw, I used to drive down Ponce De Leon from midtown(Tech campus) into Decatur. That has to be absolutely one of the most scenic drives to make in the city.

I agree with other posters that the best time to visit is a weekday. Even back then in the late 80's early 90s when I was going to Tech, the weekends were a madhouse.

One more thing that amazes me is how the cashiers know most of the codes to key in for the various produce from memory. I am guessing that it's probably one of the conditions of employment.

Just my $0.02.