Bistros in Paris: Merged topics

[jml3]

This is my first eGullet post, but since Chez Denise is one of my long time favorites I decided to stop lurking and join the discussion.

Why Chez Denise as a second name? The answer is at the cash register during many of the hours the place is open, in the person of Denise herself. Denise is very much in charge. With the death of her husband Jacques a few years ago (they had run the restarant together for years), their son also is very much in evidence. She lives upstairs, by the way.

Dessert? I have never strayed from the Baba au Rhum, which is immense and doused with rum at the table.

I think that Louisa said the wine was "rough." It may be if you drink the Brouilly out of the barrel which is poured into bottles at the bar. But there is a secret - underneath the restaurant is a two-level wine cellar. A few bottles at a time are brought up and displayed on a shelf past the bar on the left, above the ham-cutting machines (really). There you may find Bordeaux from the 1970s and 1980s and an occasional well-aged Burgundy. Not top of the line crus, but the price is in the range of 50 euros for a 20-30 year old bottle! There is no wine list, so you have to spot a bottle you like and ask for it.

And speaking of bistros - has there been any recent experience with Vin des Rues in the 14th?

[Louisa Chu]

ludja, thanks so much - but that's no article - it's just toast - it's nothing. And I have yet to have that cake - I've got to go in sometime and start with the cake.

Lesley, tragically Peltier is no more in Paris.

jgould, Au Bon Acceuil is in the 7th - oh wait - I see why you're confused - Pages Jaunes comes up with another listing in the 11th - but it's the one in the 7th.

Au Bon Acceuil

14 RUE DE MONTTESSUY

75007 PARIS

01 47 05 46 11

And jml3 - I like the Brouilly - and hey - ixnay on the eller-say - OK? And I guess I've got to start with the raspberry cake AND the baba.

[jgould]

jgould, Au Bon Acceuil is in the 7th - oh wait - I see why you're confused - Pages Jaunes comes up with another listing in the 11th - but it's the one in the 7th.

Au Bon Acceuil

14 RUE DE MONTTESSUY

75007 PARIS

01 47 05 46 11

merci lou good catch & i appreciate.

re: chez denise - one of the long time patrons bought us a cognac after a very long, heavy lunch which was poured from a huge bottle placed on our table. having had a couple of bottles of wine + several cognacs, i did not remember to get the name of the cognac, the taste i have never forgotten. if & when u return, if u would so kind as to inquire & let me know i would be forever grateful.

btw, the patron, is referred to as the "Mayor of La Tour de Montlhery", eats at Chez Denise's everyday, & recognized us after a time span of 5 yrs!!!

btw (2) have u been to Dumonet (Chez Josephine) 6er

[Margaret Pilgrim]

...the kind of food I first encountered when I first came to France over forty years ago on a budget eating in small restaurants and bistros with simple honest wine, with one difference--the food was even better than I remember. That's no mean feat as I've found that's the kind of food that's either deteriorated or which often no longer impresses me.

Because my husband and I seek out food and lodging in the depths of France profound, I would encourage you to return to your roots. The simple and honest and sometimes extraordinary dining rooms exist. Perhaps your dissatisfaction does indeed lie in your increased expectations. At the same time, I can name several universally touted (Michelin starred) stops that left us cold when we compare them to the personal attention and on target regional food we have enjoyed at simpler stops.

[Bux]

I've never claimed to have eaten better at a haute cuisine temple of luxe than at a good bistro. Often times the bistro meal is more rewarding, but what can I say, I find a certain kind of intellectual stimulation in haute cuisine. It is an addiction. One doesn't seek value from one's opiate.

It is however pleasing to have a stimulating conversation about bistros.

[jeffperez62]

Just ate at Au Lyonnaise in the (9er ??) It was quite good. Someone had mentioned Ducasse is consulting there. Is this considered a bistro??

[Bux]

Au Lyonnaise has all the hallmarks, or is it earmarks, of a bistro. It's been a traditional bistro with good reputation for some time. Ducasse recently became more than a consultant, he's become part owner. I think I said that above. Hmm, if no one is going to read what I write, I think I'm going to get a paying job. Ducasse has bought or invested in other places in France in other to preserve them, and perhaps make a euro or two as well. All the more power to him. I thought Aux Lyonnaise was an excellent restaurant and good value as well. I'll also swear it was in the 2nd arr., but it's on the cusp of the 9th, I think.

[jgould]

Au Lyonnaise has all the hallmarks, or is it earmarks, of a bistro. It's been a traditional bistro with good reputation for some time. Ducasse recently became more than a consultant, he's become part owner. I think I said that above. Hmm, if no one is going to read what I write, I think I'm going to get a paying job. Ducasse has bought or invested in other places in France in other to preserve them, and perhaps make a euro or two as well. All the more power to him. I thought Aux Lyonnaise was an excellent restaurant and good value as well. I'll also swear it was in the 2nd arr., but it's on the cusp of the 9th, I think.

well, for one, i read all your posts, so don't stop

as for aux, it is in the 2er

[John Whiting]

le baracane, definately le baracane..........

And wait 'til you use the loo! http://www.whitings-writings.com/bistro_reviews/baracane.htm

But my favorite has to be Chez Gramond. It's like stepping into Dr. Who's tardis and finding yourself transported back half a century. Is it still there? Pages Jaunes says it is. http://www.whitings-writings.com/bistro_reviews/gramond.htm

Edited February 18, 2004 by John Whiting (log)

[tony h]

what about chez michel - does that count as a bistrot?

also - is it any good?

[John Whiting]

If you're talking about the Chez Michel near the Gare du Nord, then yes -- and yes!

In it's former incarnation under a different chef it was included in Waverley Root's Paris Dining Guide of 1969.

[tony h]

John - is it the kind of place you can just drop into or do you need to book?

Thanks Tony

[John Whiting]

It's informal, at least at lunchtime. It's closed Sat-Sun and Mon lunch. Midweek early dinner time I think you'd get in, but I'm not sure. I always book everywhere, just in case, even if it's only a last-minute phone call to save a useless journey.

[jgould]

If you're talking about the Chez Michel near the Gare du Nord, then yes -- and yes!

In it's former incarnation under a different chef it was included in Waverley Root's Paris Dining Guide of 1969.

merci beaucoup - wonderful reviews!!!!

chez michel 10er chef thierry breton from the crillon

[bushey]

No contest. Au Bon Accueil in the 7th. I know, I know, it's not a traditional bistro but Lebey lists it, so it's fair game.

We have reservations for tomorrow night, can't wait.

[Bux]

To add my opinion regarding Chez Michel, let me note that we were there with friends a few years ago. It's an exceptionally informal place, but it was packed then and I'm sure it's full just about every night. I wouldn't walk in expecting to find a table. The neighborhood is not exaclty restaurant row and you will have few other options.

I always book everywhere, just in case, even if it's only a last-minute phone call to save a useless journey.

There's little better advice than that when going out for dinner in Paris, even at a local bistro. In fact, even when you're sure they won't be full, calling ahead for a reservation is taken as a sign of respect and it may get you a bit a favorable attention. And if it doesn't, it doesn't take much effort anyway. This is advice I give but I'm not necessarily good about following it, to my regret.

I trust everyone's aware that John Whiting's site is an excellent place to inform oneself about the where, why and what of bistro dining in Paris.

[jgould]

[quotehttp://www.whitings-writings.com/bistro_reviews' target='_blank'>

just read your wonderful review of le petit marguery; however, oddly it did not mention the frères Cousin are no longer owners?

[John Whiting]

just read your wonderful review of le petit marguery; however, oddly it did not mention  the frères Cousin are no longer owners?

That's because, when I wrote it, they still were. I don't have a staff of 100 reviewers.

EDIT: I'd love to keep my reviews up to date, but my Paris visits are at my own expense. I do date them at the end, so that the attentive reader is warned.

Edited February 18, 2004 by John Whiting (log)

[Lesley C]

Lesley, tragically Peltier is no more in Paris.

What! Jesus, when did that happen?

As for Au Bon Saint-Pourcain, the address is:

10 bis, rue Servandoni, 6ème arrdt. - Métro : Saint-Sulpice ou Mabillon - Tel : + 33 (0)1 43 54 93 63

Beware, the owner can be scary. I went there with a regualr customer and the owner spent the night telling us how many people he turned away because he was sure they weren't from the 6th. Bring a dog, and you might just get a table. It's worth the trouble. The ambiance and setting are straight out of a movie -- and you might end up sitting next to some local vedette.

[jgould]

As for Au Bon Saint-Pourcain, the address is:

10 bis, rue Servandoni, 6ème arrdt. - Métro : Saint-Sulpice ou Mabillon - Tel : + 33 (0)1 43 54 93 63

Beware, the owner can be scary. I went there with a regualr customer and the owner spent the night telling us how many people he turned away because he was sure they weren't from the 6th. Bring a dog, and you might just get a table. It's worth the trouble. The ambiance and setting are straight out of a movie -- and you might end up sitting next to some local vedette.

i can't wait to go!!!!

[Louisa Chu]

Lesley, tragically Peltier is no more in Paris.

What! Jesus, when did that happen?

Back in October.

The last I heard M. Conticini was back in Japan. It breaks my heart to see the shops shuttered. They were hands down my favourite patisserie in Paris.

[marcus]

No contest.  Au Bon Accueil in the 7th.  I know, I know, it's not a traditional bistro but Lebey lists it, so it's fair game.

Au Bon Accueil changed format a year or so ago and is no longer a bistro, but is now a more ambitious restaurant. Previously it was a true bistro. The owner is the same, the son of the Lacipiere who used to be the chef owner of Les Fontaines in the 5th near the Pantheon, probably the best price performing restaurant in Paris at the time. Les Fontaines, unfortunately, declined significantly since it was sold, now at least 5-8 years ago. Au Bon Accueil was never really as good, but not bad. I haven't tried it in its new guise.

Edited February 19, 2004 by marcus (log)

[jgould]

just read your wonderful review of le petit marguery; however, oddly it did not mention  the frères Cousin are no longer owners?

That's because, when I wrote it, they still were. I don't have a staff of 100 reviewers.

EDIT: I'd love to keep my reviews up to date, but my Paris visits are at my own expense. I do date them at the end, so that the attentive reader is warned.

alors!! u don't have a staff of 100, & u still write such fabulous descriptions??

as an aside, how IS le (au) petit marguery currently????????

[John Whiting]

as an aside, how IS  le (au) petit marguery currently????????

Haven't been back since 2002. But I could walk in any evening, look around at the faces, and if they looked like those in the 19th century French paintings in the Louvre, it would still be OK.

EDIT: If I had a staff of 100, my reviews would lack all character.

Edited February 19, 2004 by John Whiting (log)

[Lawen]

I've got one day left in Paris and would like to find some good, relatively inexpensive, traditional French food for dinner tonight. I'm craving good escargots, seared foie gras, maybe coq au vin or pot au feu or moules frittes but am not looking to pay even the prices of a one Michelin star (unless it's just an incredible value). I know that since Groupe Flo and Les Freres Blanc have taken over it's become harder to find a good brasserie but figure if anyone knows, it'll be the egulleters.

I'm in the 17th arrond. but don't mind going anywhere the Metro can get me, which should be everywhere in Paris proper. Time is of the essence, as it's 2pm now and we'll be looking to sit down to dinner in ~7 hours. Any help is greatly appreciated.