Review of Pilar (Napa)

[Julia'sChild]

Review of Pilar

Downtown Napa on a Tuesday evening, a party of four walked in at 6:30. We were seated right away in the tight, pale green room three quarters full with hip Napa senior citizens. No early bird specials, No specials at all, as the menu changes nightly.

Tonight six appetizers included two salads, (butter lettuce and baby spinach), sautéed foie gras, bundnerfleish, whole Spanish mackerel, and steamed mussels. We ordered the three latter with an Italian Pinot Grigio that went nicely with our choices and was reasonably priced ($28).

Thinly sliced bundnerfleish, (air dried beef, similar to bresaola), was fanned on a plate and topped with arugula, shaved Parmagiano-Reggiano, and orange scented olive oil. It was best enjoyed by rolling the meat around a little of the salad and eating together as a roll. This would be easily made or duplicated at home and at $11 it was a little pricey, but good.

Two whole Spanish mackerels, each about six inches long, arrived grilled with a small side salad comprised of fennel, cucumber, lemon, and mint. The slightly charred flesh of the mackerel was set off wonderfully by the fresh, cool, aromatic salad. Here the simple fresh flavors were artistically paired to create a depth of flavor and $9 of simple elegance.

Steamed mussels, $10, came in a romesco sauce with Spanish style chorizo and bits of peanuts. The dish started off as any simple mussel dish but grew in flavor with every bite. As we worked our way down the bowl the sauce became more prominent and showed the intelligent addition of peanuts was a winner. Mussels gone, everyone enjoyed the sauce with bread down to the last drop.

Main Courses ranged from $21 for local halibut, to $27 for Colorado rack of lamb. Other dishes offered were grilled hanger steak, Ivory King salmon, oven-roasted guinea hen breast, and a veal rib chop. We ordered an Australian Trevor Jones Shiraz ($63) to go with the lamb and veal. The rack of lamb was not a rack but actually three good-sized chops beautifully cooked (rare), on a bed of barley risotto with Manchego cheese and roasted pears, and a side of broccoli rabe. The lamb was delicious and when paired with Shiraz--a match made in heaven. The risotto, although a little dull in color and texture, ended up having good flavor because of the cheese and roasted pears.

The veal rib chop arrived with roasted German butterball potatoes and peppercress, all in a little veal jus and drizzled with truffle oil. The aroma of the veal, roasted potatoes, rich veal jus and hint of truffle oil makes my mouth water now. The veal was cooked perfect and complemented rather than over powered by the rich and velvety jus and earthy truffle oil.

Five desserts to choose from at $8 each with 4 coming with homemade gelato--baked chocolate mousse with hazelnut/chocolate gelato, coconut soufflé with pineapple gelato, apricot and blackberry financier with vanilla bean gelato, and “Fettucine” with strawberry gelato. We ordered the Carnaroli rice pudding with Moscato poached golden raisins which displayed how superior ingredients and technique can make comfort food all that much better and send you home with a satisfied smile.

Pilar is small and tight- Your chair back will touch the diner behind you and you feel like you are in the way the moment you walk in the door, until seated. The room gets louder as the evening moves on. Service was attentive, but unhelpful and our server failed to convey any enthusiasm for the food or restaurant. Questions about which appetizers to share, preparation of main courses, and dessert descriptions were met with short, labored responses. As a first time diner, I look to my server for their knowledge and understanding of the menu and this is extremely important when the menu changes daily, especially when the menu contains several spelling errors and a couple of inaccurate dish descriptions.

Despite these small glitches, the food at Pilar shows an Italian flair for fresh seasonal ingredients, fine French techniques in preparations and a Spanish knack for seasoning and experimentation. This winning combination of the chefs’ training, heritage, and visions will bring me back for more.

[Hest88]

Thanks for the review. I've seen a number of good reviews so it's nice to get the perspective of a "real person" as opposed to a critic.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Welcome to eG, Julia's Child! Nice that your first visit here is a review of my current favorite restaurant. Here was my first visit: Pilar.

Hope you'll come back often!

[Julia'sChild]

Thanks for the welcome Carolyn. I enjoyed your pictures of your experience.

I hope to be here often and contribute something meaningful.

Thanks

[russ parsons]

we almost went there friday night on the very strong recommendation of the woman who owns the glass store next door. we opted for the familiar, though, and went to zuzu. as good as your meal sounds, i can't say i am sorry we made that choice. zuzu was terrific, again. almonds, olives, heirloom tomato salad, grilled sardine, shrimp in garlic butter, salt cod, peach and arugula salad, peach fritter and a chocolate pudding sort of thing. two glasses of champagne, four glasses of rose and a glass of oloroso afterward. with a very generous tip, $135. we ate at the communal table upstairs (no reservations) and it was fun sharing food with the other people, including a couple of honeymooners and two women who appeared to be just out of high school but ate with great zest.

how lucky you are two have two such great restaurants in the same block.

Edited July 15, 2004 by russ parsons (log)

[Carolyn Tillie]

we almost went there friday night on the very strong recommendation of the woman who owns the glass store next door. we opted for the familiar, though, and went to zuzu. as good as your meal sounds, i can't say i am sorry we made that choice. zuzu was terrific, again. almonds, olives, heirloom tomato salad, grilled sardine, shrimp in garlic butter, salt cod, peach and arugula salad, peach fritter and a chocolate pudding sort of thing. two glasses of champagne, four glasses of rose and a glass of oloroso afterward. with a very generous tip, $135. we ate at the communal table upstairs (no reservations) and it was fun sharing food with the other people, including a couple of honeymooners and two women who appeared to be just out of high school but ate with great zest.

What time were you there, Russ? Shawn and I were sitting downstairs around 7:30!

I was a bit disappointed by the Peach Empanada and we had a new waiter that screwed up almost every dish we ordered. The special Scallop Ceviche that evening was a winner.

Although I still think you should've gone to Pilar! Drop a line the next time you are in town... we Napans would love to say 'hello!'

[Julia'sChild]

we Napans would love to say 'hello!'

Carolyn

It is Napkins, not Napans, for those of us here in the wonderful Napa Valley.

[rancho_gordo]

For you Pilar fans (and who isn't- she's the vallley's IT GIRL of the moment), she's cooking a Slow Food event at my place on August 7th, using a lot of my product. I don't quite know how these Slow Food things work, but the Napa Valley chapter will have all the poop.

[rancho_gordo]

we Napans would love to say 'hello!'

Carolyn

It is Napkins, not Napans, for those of us here in the wonderful Napa Valley.

And for those of us who drink hard likker, we're Cocktail Napkins!

[Carolyn Tillie]

we Napans would love to say 'hello!'

Carolyn

It is Napkins, not Napans, for those of us here in the wonderful Napa Valley.

And for those of us who drink hard likker, we're Cocktail Napkins!

[Julia'sChild]

For you Pilar fans (and who isn't- she's the vallley's IT GIRL of the moment), she's cooking a Slow Food event at my place on August 7th, using a lot of my product. I don't quite know how these Slow Food things work, but the Napa Valley chapter will have all the poop.

SO Rancho

Are all of your favorite "Napkins" invited?

I can bring wine.........

[rancho_gordo]

SO Rancho

Are all of your favorite "Napkins" invited?

I can bring wine.........

I don't have anything to do with that part but my impression is you need to be a Slow Foods member. I'm pretty much a guest at this thing myself.

Here is the member invite:

This is the official invite for our next event on August 7th at

the home of Ranch Gordo.

Slow Food Napa Valley invites you to a celebration of summer,

farmers markets, the rich native and latino heritage of our California

cuisine and three of the entreprenuers that highlight these aspects in

their chosen life path. We'll enjoy the results of food exploration and

farming of Steve Sando, who grows what he refers to as indigenous

vegetables and herbs, including beans, masa, tomatillo's, and tomatoes.

Many of you may have seen his colorful display of the many bean varities

he grows at farmers markets here in Napa Valley or elsewhere in the bay.

We'll tour his small farm in Napa, and then sit down to a meal as

prepared by Pilar Sanchez of Pilar, the new hip spot in downtown Napa.

Pilar's cooking styles and influences make this a perfect match for the

Rancho Gordo fare. We'll also enjoy adult beverages as provided by Pam

Hunter, 100 percent agave, organic Mezcal de Oaxaca, better known under

the brand Encantado, including; Donaje--Fresh squeezed orange juice and

mezcal named for the last Aztec princess.

A portion of the proceeds will go to benefit the St Helena Farmers

Mkt.

Time: 12:00 - 3:00 pm

Cost: $50.00 - Slow Food Members

$60.00 - non-members ( if you are expired I'll have forms for you to

fill out to resign up at the event)

We are limiting, due to space, the attendees to 40 in total. If you

sign up and change your mind please let me know in that I will be

running a waiting list.

Dress - casual, it will be an outdoor event, we will have coverage but

be prepared

The mezcal sounds pretty great!

[rancho_gordo]

So I'm still cleaning up the mess and trying to figure out what to do with gallons of aguas frescas, but the event was really fine.

I'm no tanabutler, but some of my pics are here.

It was a great crowd and I think everyone had a gas. I think Pilar is terrific!

[milla]

nice photos...

[tanabutler]

Wow, Rancho Gordo. What kind of camera do you use? They're lovely photos. You rock, dahlink!

[tanabutler]

So I'm still cleaning up the mess and trying to figure out what to do with gallons of aguas frescas, but the event was really fine.

I'm no tanabutler, but some of my pics are here.

It was a great crowd and I think everyone had a gas. I think Pilar is terrific!

Bob will be right up. He LOOOOOOOOOOOOOVES that stuff!!

[tanabutler]

Speaking of Slow Food, how did I miss this Slow Food in Italy master cooking class blog all these weeks?

Edited August 10, 2004 by tanabutler (log)

[rancho_gordo]

I just used a Canon digital, the cute little box one. I just wish the people shots were better. I'm no photographer but I was raised with film and even with digital I still tend to be chintzy with my shots. I wish I could shoot with reckless abandon.

Re the aguas- tell Bob he better hurry. And tell him he completely missed the gorgeous Encantado mezcal. I was singing boleros by the end of that bottle!

The best was the tamarindo as she made it from actual pods. Most places now use a nasty mix, or at most the paste. She did it the right way.

[rancho_gordo]

From today's paper:

Former chef sues CIA for harassment

Sanchez said when she was hired by the CIA in May 2001 she made $70,000 a year, about half what her male predecessor made and without the more glamorous title of executive chef, despite the fact that Sanchez had been chef de cuisine with upscale establishments like Restaurant at Meadowood and Mustards Grill.

The whole story is here.

Also a review of her restaurant is in the same issue, available here.

I especially like this passage from the normally calm and collected L. Pierce Carson:

A diner knows he or she is in good hands with the first spoon of soup. The memory of Sanchez' past triumphs with soup, both hot and cold, prompted us on a recent visit to order a sweet white corn soup. Some, like this soupaholic, might have been overheard declaring this small white bowl of heaven to be at least as good as the best sex -- at least the best sex that this diner can remember.

Edited September 15, 2004 by rancho_gordo (log)

[cmvnapa]

From today's paper:

The whole story is here.

Also a review of her restaurant is in the same issue, available here.

I especially like this passage from the normally calm and collected L. Pierce Carson:

←

Eeek. Sex is not the first thing that comes to my mind when I look at L. Pierce. Sorry. And it's been years since I've seen him, swanning around at the Mondavi concerts.

And that was troubling news into today's paper about RMW. Everybody knew something was coming and I thought it would be the reverse. But Woodbridge has always been the cash cow for them.

chrisv (14 year RMW vet)

Edited September 15, 2004 by cmvnapa (log)

[samgiovese]

My wife and I dined at Pilar last night. We were early, and save for 2 other tables, we had the place to ourselves. People were staying away in droves due to the inclement weather and the fact that the restaurant sits right by the Napa River.

We started with two glasses of '00 Domaine Carneros brut (very nice). We next both enjoyed the escarole salad with pears, maytag bleu cheese, pomegranate seeds and a very light vinagarette. Pears and bleu cheese are one of my favorite combinations, and the pomegranate's sweetness juxtaposed with the dressing was a really winning combination.

We ordered a bottle of '03 Reverie Tempranillo, mostly because it is impossible to find unless you are on their mailing list. We have visited Reverie twice and been told of the Tempranillo, but alas, there was none to sample. We were not disappointed. It had a leathery, spicy aroma, and the spice fairly exploded when sipped after the salad.

For her entree, my wife chose the roasted chicken breast on a bed of herb risotto with chantrelle mushrooms. The wine actually paired quite nicely with the earthiness of the mushrooms and the flavor of the risotto.

I chose the slow-roasted roasted pork pozole with garbanzo beans. This was a wonderful, savory stew that was a perfect antidote to the nasty weather outside. It also paired exceptioinally well with the Tempranillo. I assumed this was an old family recipe from Pilar, but was corrected that it was Didier's grandmother's recipe! Who knew?

We decided to forego dessert and head back up-valley while we still could.

This continues to be one of the undiscovered gems of the Napa Valley. This is the type of restaurant that locals should be embracing and patronizing on a regular basis. The prices are quite reasonable, and the quality of ingredients and flavor combinations are some of the best in all of Napa Valley.

I think the location may be a bit off-puttiing, but ZuZu, just a few doors down, seems to bed doing a land office business.

I would hate to see Napa lose this gem of a restaurant.