L'Enclume

[sped98]

INTERMEDIATE MENU AT L`ENCLUME.

What a fantastic start to christmas , it`s certainly set everything off with a smile.My wife and I had the pleasure of sampling Simon Rogans intermediate menu last night , 14 wonderful courses. I believe that the new menu for the new year is well underway so I`ll hopefully get to hear what treats are in store and keep you all posted just as soon as I hear anything.

Last nights highlights .....and lowlights were.

Highlight of the night was, once again " cubes from land and sea , eucalyptus hollendaise" a little taste of heaven , cubes of lobster , scallop and chanterelle in the most unusually flavoured light hollendaise. I also got to find out from my kitchen spy where Rogan gets the eucalyptus from , so hopefully there`ll be a few xmas experiments going on.

Lowlight of the night was the phone call we got after our 2 hour journey to say that Max ( our 7 year old terror) had discovered the xmas presents whilst being nosey , and found out exactly what santa is bringing him tonight......kids eh ?

Anyway , here`s the menu from last night.Hope all of you have a wonderful xmas and a happy new year....oh and hope you all sample the delights yourselves during 2005.

Lakeland slate of five winter contrasts to get you going 2004/2005

(an assortment of lenclume appetisers to play on the senses of sweet , sour , astringent , bitter , and umami.

Perilla and parmesan broth ,lip smacking crispy pizza (deconstructed)

Gorgonzola french fries , lovage and apple dipper.

Cubism in foie gras ,two cold ,one hot, cantaloupe,fragrant myrrh,almond cake.

( pate , hot bon bon with black truffle, foie gras parfait ,)

Half soft and scrambled eggs,soy,wasabi and smoked cod froth.

Flaky crab,curried avocado,parmesan yoghurt sorbet

sea scallops , bacon polenta , cauliflower crunch , passion fruit , hibiscus sweet.

cubes from land and sea,eucalyptus hollendaise.

John dory , bergamot aromas , bitter caramel.

Loin of lamb,grains of paradise,aubergine,butternut confit,cumin bouillon.

or

Mr littles beef fillet , waberthwaite air dried ham,apple,juniper berry juices.

Monsieur Rabauds cheeses.

Burnt asparagus cream pot ( with no cream) raspberry turkish.

Melting fig fondant,cassia bark ( cinnamon) icy fennel , spice.

chocolate mayhem.....no more voices.

( an assiette of chocolate )

[Andy Lynes]

cock with a tongue too big for his mouth

...wouldn't be entirely out of place on the menu either.

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"Cock with a tongue too big for his mouth, no more adverts" perhaps?

[Suzi Edwards]

I think I've realised too late what I really want for Christmas.

[milla]

There is something odd about the wording of parts of the menu. There are elements of it that I don't know how to respond to (emotionally). "Chocolate mayhem, no more voices" is the sort of thing that little old ladies with lots of bags who spend all day sitting at bus stops might mutter as you walk past. But the big picture for me is still "Ooooo!" and "Mmmmm!".

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to me, the wording, the syntax, even the rhythm of the entire menu is heavily influenced by the wording of Veyrat's menus. check out the english wording on his website here and also here.

It matches the hat and the signed menu on the restaurant wall.

[sped98]

You are quite correct Milla, Rogan has made no secret of the fact that Veyrat was the guy to float his boat originally although his style in food has evolved since my first visit over a year ago.

To understand menus like this one has to try it and only then will explanations follow. I personally love the nonconformity of it all and the sticking up of two fingers at those with the preconception of how a menu should read.

One should not be ridiculed for having an active imagination and a sense of humour.

Chocolate mayhem, no more voices... I now know exactly what it means

[milla]

You are quite correct Milla, Rogan has made no secret of the fact that Veyrat was the guy to float his boat originally although his style in food has evolved since my first visit over a year ago. 

To understand menus like this one has to try it and only then will explanations follow. I personally love the nonconformity of it all and the sticking up of two fingers at those with the preconception of how a menu should read.

One should not be ridiculed for having an active imagination and a sense of humour.

Chocolate mayhem, no more voices...  I now know exactly what it means

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actually, my point was the verbiage is exactly like veyrat, not influenced by veyrat. both the wording on the egg dish and the burnt creme pots are the same.

that is my only point. i will reserve judgement of course after eating there. having visited Veyrat, i look forward to the comparisons. Happy Holidays.

[Andy Lynes]

Chocolate mayhem, no more voices...  I now know exactly what it means

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Come on then, share it with the rest of the class please.

[Suzi Edwards]

If it's really exciting please don't share it until Wednesday when I will be offline :-)

Alternativly you could do what movie reviewers do.

So maybe if you post about "chocolate mayhem, no more voices" you could put

SPOILER

at the start of the post? Cheers hon.

[culinary bear]

Chocolate mayhem, no more voices...

Yes, but is it ~art~...?

*maniacal laughter*

[Suzi Edwards]

Can anyone tell me anything about the wine at L'Enclume? Would you recommend the pairings? Are they very interesting? Anything about the Sommelier Stephen Wilcox?

[sped98]

As I understand, Tarka is dining at L'Enclume on the 29th so I would not want to ruin it for her.

All I will say is there is a double meaning to the course in question, one being so obvious after you have sampled 14 courses plus, and another unknown to me but personal to Rogan. The latter seems to be a secret but I was told a tongue in cheek response to a third party.

I will let Tarka do the honours and see if she can enlighten us on the hidden meaning!

[offcentre]

There is something odd about the wording of parts of the menu. There are elements of it that I don't know how to respond to (emotionally). "Chocolate mayhem, no more voices" is the sort of thing that little old ladies with lots of bags who spend all day sitting at bus stops might mutter as you walk past. But the big picture for me is still "Ooooo!" and "Mmmmm!".

Anyway isn't it Jamie's creative team who do all the "words" (menus, books...)? By reputation, he's not much of an abstract thinker.

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I like it - sort of poetical I think. Whether its been copied from someone else or not, doing something with a menu that is different to the norm is brave and interesting. As long as the food is good then good for them.

Chocolate mayhem, no more voices suggests to me you won't say or hear a word as you enjoy the desert.

I'm amazed that there is a restaurant of the quality that l'enclume appears to be that is as little known to the egullet regulars as this is. Very disappointed in Gary Marshall

[Gary Marshall]

I'm amazed that there is a restaurant of the quality that l'enclume appears to be that is as little known to the egullet regulars as this is. Very disappointed in Gary Marshall 

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easy tiger

unfortunately it's fallen prey to my laziness, i've know about it for ages and have often plotted a punch bowl / l'enclume double header but i've never actually made it, actually i've never knowingly been to the lake district

(edit: thinking about it scott f and i plotted a trip to l'enclume whilst in anthony's once, the wives weren't interested so we were heading up for a boys weekend, maybe we can rescutitate that!)

it seems easier to plot a long weekend away in paris on the internet for scoffing than jumping in the car and heading up to the lakes.

i have recommended it to friends though.

new years resolution - go to more UK restaurants! need to go to the devonshire arms, not been there since they got a star, not been to the yorke arms for too long either.

cheers

gary

Edited January 4, 2005 by Gary Marshall (log)

[grahamR]

I had two wine gums at l'Enclume last week. Well, standing in the doorway looking at the menu (which is exactly the same as on the web site, but divided between the two walls.) I'm hoping to actually get inside for an actual meal towards the end of February.

Managed to have a good old shoparoo in the deli at the other end of town. It was absolutely brilliant and the sticky toffee pudding about a third of the price you pay in London. The local smoked salmon was top notch.

[Scottf]

(edit: thinking about it scott f and i plotted a trip to l'enclume whilst in anthony's once, the wives weren't interested so we were heading up for a boys weekend, maybe we can rescutitate that!)

seems easier to plot a long weekend away in paris on the internet for scoffing

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Oooh, it's a date

[Bapi]

(edit: thinking about it scott f and i plotted a trip to l'enclume whilst in anthony's once, the wives weren't interested so we were heading up for a boys weekend, maybe we can rescutitate that!)

seems easier to plot a long weekend away in paris on the internet for scoffing

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Oooh, it's a date

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I'd be up for this given sufficient notice chaps-seriously? Was this a serious suggestion or was it the usual plished nonsense ?

[Gary Marshall]

(edit: thinking about it scott f and i plotted a trip to l'enclume whilst in anthony's once, the wives weren't interested so we were heading up for a boys weekend, maybe we can rescutitate that!)

seems easier to plot a long weekend away in paris on the internet for scoffing

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Oooh, it's a date

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I'd be up for this given sufficient notice chaps-seriously? Was this a serious suggestion or was it the usual plished nonsense ?

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hahaha!

he has a two week old baby and he thinks he'll be allowed out on a boys weekend!

[Bapi]

(edit: thinking about it scott f and i plotted a trip to l'enclume whilst in anthony's once, the wives weren't interested so we were heading up for a boys weekend, maybe we can rescutitate that!)

seems easier to plot a long weekend away in paris on the internet for scoffing

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Oooh, it's a date

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I'd be up for this given sufficient notice chaps-seriously? Was this a serious suggestion or was it the usual plished nonsense ?

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hahaha!

he has a two week old baby and he thinks he'll be allowed out on a boys weekend!

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A man's got to dream. But you forget Gary, my Mother lives just outside Manchester - so I can drop Rosie and munchkin off and head up for a night or two . Provided I have saved enough pocket money of my own up or dipped into Hugo's brand new National Savings account !

Edited January 6, 2005 by Bapi (log)

[MobyP]

Bapi - a new baby? Congratulations! Mine's on the way in March, and I'm already wondering if I'll ever eat again.

[Winot]

And mine in May. Clearly the Year Of The eGullet Baby.

[Gary Marshall]

Anyone know of any acommodation within suitable staggering distance of l'enclume?

i know they have rooms there but would rather spend money on the food and drink

is the punchbowl in the immediate vicinity?

i am geographically challenged for this neck of the woods, i know there's water there but that's about it

thanks

gary

[Andy Lynes]

Newlands B&B is just around the corner from L'enclume and inexpensive. Never stayed there, but look like a decent bet.

[Suzi Edwards]

I stayed at the Royal Oak Inn, it's about 40 meters from L'Enclume. I was really pleased with my choice, it's a lovely pub with a big open fire and the rooms upstairs were really comfy. Lots of B&Bs are a bit chinzy, and while this isn't the Plaza Athenee, this felt good to me. My room was beamed (sorry, don't know the proper word) which I'm a total sucker for. I hate spending money on hotels, but I was pleased with the £50 I spent here.

Nice cooked breakfast in the morning as well included in the price.

Call Michael on 015395 36259 to book. I'll see if I took any photos of the pub and post them if I did.

[Gary Marshall]

thanks tarka

staying in a pub, what could be better

cheers

gary

[Bapi]

Bapi - a new baby? Congratulations! Mine's on the way in March, and I'm already wondering if I'll ever eat again.

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Moby- thanks for that and for the invite which I have PM'd you about. Re eating out again - of course you will Sir, it just may take a bit more planning ahead now ! I have already cleared tentative meals at Hibiscus / WI for later this year and they welcome children especially for lunch. ( No Gary- not to eat). As gingerchef said on a different thread- best to get them started early eh ?

Tarka thanks for the info.Gulp - staying in a pub with Marshall and Friar. I have had my pass stamped by the senior partner( poor deluded woman)and so will leave the arranging to Beelzebub from York. I'll arrange my own recuperation at the Betty Ford clinic