Restaurants in Rhone Valley / Savoy

[nathanm]

I will be driving up the Rhone valley from Provence to Savoy in mid June, and I am looking for some recommendations.

I will probably stay at Hotel Jule Cesar - not sure if the restaurant there is great.

Interesting bistros or brasseries along the Rhone valley might be useful.

I have a dinner booked at Marc Veyrat. I be in the Annecy area another day so a much less casual (and less filling) place for lunch the next day and dinner would be good.

By the way - any hotel recommendations in that area? I can only get a room at Veyrat for one of two nights...

I'll probably pass through Chamonix on my way to Switzerland.

Nathan

[Bux]

By the way - any hotel recommendations in that area? I can only get a room at Veyrat for one of two nights...

The Imperial Palace is pretty nice. If you'd prefer to stay both nights at Veyrat, I assume price is no object, thus I'd suggest you should get a room with a terrace on the lakeside, or at least a view of the lake. The rooms are simple and modern, but it's a nice comfortable place and the lakeside views are wonderful.

I hear Veyrat's food has changed a lot since I've been there, but it was a fabulous meal for us at the time. Unfortunately our other meal in Annecy was chosen at random and not memorable.

[John Talbott]

Outside of Veyrat (and I haven't been in a couple of years) there are two places around Annecy that I would highly recommend. The first is the Ferme de Lormay (Chez Albert) in Le Grand-Bornand 33 km from Annecy (better known as a skiing destination). It's not in my Michelin but is in my 2003 Gault/Millau as only a 12 but it's very special. The guy (Albert Bonamy) prepares great rustic cuisine with gutsy terrines, well-thought out mains and terrific tartes. The few times we've been there, the cars have all had Paris or local license plates which I think is a good sign. We went for lunch and then hiked around as did most customers (it's at the end of a very long road up a valley (the Bouchet). (You can cut up to Switzerland if you wish to afterwards) It's closed quirky times (May and the first part of June, Sept - mid December, Tuesdays; so check 04.50.02.34.29). If you must stick around Annecy in the evening, the Brasserie St Maurice, 9 rue du college 04.50.51.24.49 is not bad (it's surpring fusion-y cuisine) but not like Pere Bise in its heydays. I would caution you against eating at Ciboulette, it's not up to it's ratings, and L'Atelier Gourmand was not as good the 2nd time as it was the 1st. Despite its awful name, Super Panorama - perched high above Talloires, offers a terrific place to have lunch if it's sunny and the sailboats are out, etc.

This may seem a bit bizarre, but just thru the Mont Blanc tunnel in Courmeyer (Italy) is a place we drive to from Megeve, Courcheval, etc to eat called La Maison de Fillipo (39.01.65.86.97.97). It's the Italian counterpart of the Ferme de Lormay, good, indeed great rustic cooking. It's the sort of place where the sausages, terrines and bread already on the table with some red wine, alone are a meal, but then you're faced with antipasti, and so many courses before you get to the pastas you're flagging. However, somehow you can make it thru the mains and desert and cheese and there's just enough room for a grappa. Our last bill was still way under $100. I'm a bit worried that they now have a website http://www.lamaison.com/ but maybe that's a sign of times not a sign of being over-touristed. We've usually eaten there at night but during the day the "other side" of Mont Blanc is perfect for hiking. It's closed in November and Tuesdays as well as June though, so depending on when you hit it - it may or may not be closed.

[John Talbott]

As for the hotel, I'd second Bux's recommendation for the Imperial Palace; it's luxe but very convenient with access to the Champs de Mars if you're a runner and a car park. I much prefer to stay out South-East in the mountains but most chambres d'hote want a week or several days and you've got to bring your own linens, towels etc.

[Bux]

... the Imperial Palace; it's luxe but ...

It's luxe, but have you seen Verat's little inn on the lake?

[John Talbott]

[it's luxe, but have you seen Verat's little inn on the lake?]

Yes - it's very impressive. And to think he was almost belly-up a while back.

[oldschooltie]

if you want to eat/stay in Chamonix Albert 1er is good

[Bux]

[it's luxe, but have you seen Verat's little inn on the lake?]

Yes - it's very impressive. And to think he was almost belly-up a while back.

If I'm not mistaken, the reason he almost went belly up was probably because of the (borrowed) money he spent on renovating that place. I also believe he had the bank in a poor position, as it was clear that without his cooking, there was no way that place was ever going to turn a profit. Thus they seemed to have no choice other than to extend his loan. At least that's the way I heard it.

[bleudauvergne]

Hi nathan, what cities / towns do you plan to stop in? Is this a leisurely drive on route nationals or are you taking the autoroute? How much will you be exploring? We leave the med coast in the morning and are home in Lyon by afternoon, 3 - 5 hours depending how much we want to explore the back roads. What's your comfort level for places to stay? Do you have to keep expenses down with some expenditures, or are you just simply looking for the best? Are you going to his restaurant in Annecy or in Megeve?

[Bux]

Are you going to his restaurant in Annecy or in Megeve?

In mid June, it will have to be Annecy. It's the one that's open in the summer. Although Veyrat is at least the third chef to have six stars at once, it could be argued that he doesn't operate two restaurants at once and just moves his staff back and forth seasonally as a shepherd does.

I'm unclear as to whether Nathan is looking to make the drive from Arles to Annecy in one day and just looking for a place to have lunch, or if he's looking for suggestions to break the trip and have dinner. "Bistros or brasseries along the Rhone valley" suggest he's not looking for a stopover worth a detour, but that's not entirely clear.

[bleudauvergne]

If you want to stop somewhere for a light lunch, it would place you somewhere around Arles, yes?

The international animated film festival will take place in Annecy from 6-12 Juin, so it you are there within that time frame I suggest you reserve the Imperial Palace now.

The 21st of June is the national music festival, where everyone in the entire country takes to the streets in song and dance all night. It's great, I don't know if you're going to be there, but it's a lot of fun and something to be prepared for if you are.

Edited May 27, 2004 by bleudauvergne (log)

[mikeycook]

Just north of Orange, in Mondragon, is La Beaugraviere, which Robert Parker has referred to several times. They have an excellent Rhone wine list. My wife and I have eaten there twice, once in 2000 for our honeymoon and once last summer. We thought the food had improved substantially since our first visit (although the prices of 1990 Hermitage La Chappelle had doubled. ).

For hotels, I would recommend the Chateau Rochegude in Rochegude. It is a short drive from La Beaugraviere (about 12km).

[TarteTatin]

We stayed at Beau Rivage in Condrieu. A Relais Du Silence. Very nice on the river.

The hotel thinks it has good food, but we were underwhelmed. The hotel, however, was very nice and not expensive.

Tain L'Hermitage has a place near Valrhona chocolate that smells of chocolate, also right on the river. Quiet and nice and the restaurant wasn't bad. Tain is not the best place for food, but that just might have been our own experience.

If you are going as far South as Gigondas, there are two good restaurants there. One on the square where I had the best truffle omelet I've ever had, and one up in the hill with a hotel attached, called Les Florets. Beautiful view! And the lunch wasn't bad either. Good value for money and some real country dishes.

[nathanm]

I have been traveling, hence the silence.

I wound up booking a hotel in Annecy for Veyrat - most of the places are full. But I am mainly going there to eat anyway.

On the way up, alas I don't have time for "worth a journey" - just want a decent place for lunch between Avignon and Annecy. Can't eat too much, or the Symphony menu at Veyrat won't fit.

I'll spend a day doing a loop out from Annecy and back for a second night - possiblity to Lyon. Veyrat is closed that night so can't eat there again. So, interesting places for lunch and dinner anywhere within a day trip from Annecy...

[bleudauvergne]

Here's a thread on Lyon dining

And my notes from dinner at Gourmet de Seze

But following Marc Veyrat...

[artisanbaker]

les cedres- i think it's in la drome

pic- valence

or for something a little more realistic l'auberge du pin beside pic

bernachon- lyon

oh wait, they have mainly chocolate...

i will ask for more suggestions from locals

[artisanbaker]

http://www.cg26.fr/gb/tourisme/gastronomie...ir/terroir.html

have fun

[truffe d'ete]

I would have no hesitation in seconding Artisanbaker's suggestion of the Restaurant Pic in Valence.

After reading Patricia Well's (slightly old) review, I dined there last summer, and found it be even better than expected. The cuisine of Anne-Sophie Pic, the comprehensive wine list (featuring lots of excellent Rhones), the watchful but never over-attentive service and general ambience of the restaurant were all superb, fully justifying - at the very least - the 2 Michelin stars it has been awarded.

Bonne Route et Bon Appetit!

[nathanm]

Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I leave on the trip later today...