Mix (with Damon Gordon as chef de cuisine)

[jeunefilleparis]

Admin: The discussion thread archive for Mix under chef Doug Psaltis may be found here. The discussion thread for Mix under chef Francesco Berardinelli and renamed as "Francesco at Mix" may be found here

I work up town, not terribly far from Mix. Lots of the restaurants near me were totally packed and I ended up at the Plaza and realized that I was around the corner from Mix. It was nearly empty but they said that I could still eat. I went knowing what I wanted so it made it easier for the kitchen.

I had seen the space before but at night. During the day it was very different to me. I really was impressed with the very modern space that was designed. I loved the furniture and apparently all of the glassware was specially designed for them as well. Their staff was all incredibly friends and very kind.

When my entree arrived, the last table was leaving so I was offically alone but it was rather serene being alone in a very minimalistic ivory colored space.

I ordered the elbow maccaroni w. ham, cheese and truffle juice. It arrived in a smallish white ceramic bowl covered. Inside was a hearty amount of elbow maccaroni. I was also given a treat ( yeah to knowing a chef in the kitchen) a small shrimp salad. A modern take on shrimp cocktail,- raw shrimp served on a bed of lemon-horseradish creme fraiche and tomatoes. It had a great fresh flavor.

For dessert I got the Chestnut Mont Blanc. It was one of the best desserts that I have ever had. It was served in a what looked like a Petri dish. There was an orange marmalade on the bottom, then the chestunut creme, then merangue - on top of that was a white ice cream looking like substance, but it was lighter than icecream, i forgot to ask what it was, and attached to that, which i found very cool was a pair of merangue wings stuck to either side. It looked like it could fly away which was quirky and cute.

All in all, i was very impressed,- oh wait, one of my favorites was the homemade peanut butter and grape jelly with toast. It was the best damn peanut butter, so buttery and fresh, and normally i hate grape jelly, but, well, now i can say that, at least at Mix, I dig it!

I would recommend it in a second. and according to the manager, soon, the dinner will be offered a la carte, not just prix fixe.

[slkinsey]

Thanks for the comments, jeunefilleparis. As yours is the first post on Mix after Doug Psaltis' departure as chef de cuisine, I'll take the opportunity to make this the new thread for reviews and discussion about Mix.

The archival thread containing discussion about Mix under Doug Psaltis' tenure may be found here

[Fat Guy]

“How does it compare to the old Mix?” It was the question being asked all over the room at the Mix relaunch media preview tasting last night. (Remind me sometime to talk more about the phenomenon of the media preview dinner.) I have no problem with answering that question – although there were some tremendously inane media groupthink howlers (“You needed a college degree to read the old menu”) – but what about a simpler question: “How's the food?” I'd rather start with that one.

Not that a media dinner is the best format in which to taste food, but it's possible to develop at least some early impressions. In many cases, the food was terrific. (What were you expecting? That the food would be bad?) Four gigantic medium-rare scallops – their texture at once firm and gelatinous – sit in an earthenware crock surrounded by chanterelles and supported by a Meyer lemon marmalade (Ducasse's facility with marmalades is one of his signatures) that I wish I could get in a jar and carry with me everywhere: I'd eat by the spoonful while writing on the computer, watching TV, and engaging in alternate side of the street parking. A modernized take on duck a l'orange – the breast cooked sous vide to moist medium rare, the leg and thigh done as a confit with mini tangerine slices scattered about (each slice peeled, no less) and anchored with belgian endive – was the hit of the evening, a duck dish I'd use on anybody who says “I don't like duck.” The signature elbow macaroni with ham and truffle jus is one of the most seductive nouvelle comfort food dishes being served in New York right now.

“Shellfish and chips,” probably a nod to the new chef Damon Gordon's UK background, is a paper cone full of beautifully fried bite-size crustaceans and mollusks with (American definition) freshly made potato chips and a velvety mustard sauce pinch-hitting for tartar. And a simple foie gras terrine demonstrates the kitchen's facility with basic technique, putting to shame most examples being foisted on diners around town. There were also a few clunkers, like a radically uninspired filet mignon au poivre with the second-worst fries I've had lately (the worst being the fries they sell as a side dish) and all of the desserts (save for the always enjoyable chocolate pizza).

The new menu is a straight-up carte with appetizers (most in the mid- to high-teens), main courses (a big range, from $26 for chicken pot pie to $46 for “New Lobster Newburg,” which I didn't get to try), desserts (mostly $11), and side dishes (most $7-$11 with the elbow macaroni at $14). The cuisine is straightforward and accessible: smart dishes that will appeal to a wide audience but still satisfy the gourmet element on account of a healthy dose of advanced technique and strong (though not uniformly superb) product quality. I've been wrong too many times to make predictions anymore about the commercial successes of restaurants, but it certainly seems as though Mix is on a path that could attract and retain a steady, young, hip clientele. It will be interesting to see how the buzz develops over the next few weeks. The prices seem a little high – a full meal at Mix will cost you the same as a full meal at Gramercy Tavern – but you aren't locked into a full meal; I think that will appeal to Mix's target audience.

Getting to the comparison: I mentioned that Mix will “satisfy” the gourmet element. By that I mean I'll always be happy to dine there. But there is a sense of loss associated with the new approach. The old Mix was – as those of us who became Psaltis-incarnation loyalists quickly figured out – one of the city's better haute cuisine restaurants masquerading as a hip, clubby joint. I imagine that's all over now, and that Mix is hewing to a narrower formula: it really is going to be a hip, clubby joint. I won't be dining there every week.

Ducasse was in the house, as were an alarming number of people from his various global operations (you haven't truly scaled the heights of food journalism awkwardness until you've been cornered by Alain Ducasse and a gang of his assistants demanding an explanation of the Bay of Pigs metaphor). Although my primary concern is with food quality and not the politics of where Ducasse is on any given day, I confess I'm pleased that he has been in New York so much of late. It demonstrates a certain level of commitment, one that I worried had been called into question by recent events. That seems to have been a false alarm.

I'm relatively anti-social and tend not to know many people at these events (nor do I often attend them). I only recognized one other writer out of dozens, so when my better-connected dining companion (she's a publicist and knows everybody) stepped away to talk to some people I didn't know, I wandered downstairs into the kitchen to get a look at Damon Gordon. I interrogated him about his background, which is no joke. I'll try to get an official bio on him but he's worked for Ducasse, Ramsay, Troisgras . . . I think that's what he said. I didn't recognize any of the key people in the kitchen; I think they've had a pretty major staff turnover.

Back upstairs, I noticed no significant changes to the physical space, the utensils, or anything like that -- although the menu is now gloriously presented on white paper instead of under that bizarre orange plastic (which, though I have a college degree, I found borderline inscrutable). Service can't possibly be evaluated in an event setting, but a few of my favorite staff seemed still to be in action. I'll try to head back to Mix in a month or two, once Damon Gordon really gets his footing and the formula has time to settle in, and give a more comprehensive report.

[oakapple]

The new menu is a straight-up carte with appetizers (most in the mid- to high-teens), main courses (a big range, from $26 for chicken pot pie to $46 for “New Lobster Newburg,” which I didn't get to try), desserts (mostly $11), and side dishes (most $7-$11 with the elbow macaroni at $14).  ...  ...  It will be interesting to see how the buzz develops over the next few weeks. The prices seem a little high – a full meal at Mix will cost you the same as a full meal at Gramercy Tavern – but you aren't locked into a full meal; I think that will appeal to Mix's target audience.

The premise still seems flawed: at $26 for chicken pot pie (what is essentially a traditional pub food dish), it needs to be extraordinary. Same for a macaroni side dish at $14.

[Suzanne F]

“How does it compare to the old Mix?” It was the question being asked all over the room at the Mix relaunch media preview tasting last night. . . . .

Aha. This explains why I was refused a copy of the menu earlier yesterday when I requested it.

Here is an exchange of e-mails (not sure why the times are as they are):

----- Original Message -----

From: Suzanne Fass

To: xxxxx@mix.ny

Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 12:07 PM

Subject: Copy of menu?

I had dinner at Mix in NY last night (6pm reservation; duck foie ravioli, duck breast, green salad, panna cotta), and would like a copy of the menu for accurate descriptions. Would it be possible for you to either e-mail or fax me a copy?

Thank you.

Suzanne Fass

-----Original Message-----

From: xxxxx@mix.comSent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 11:31 AM

To: (my address)

Subject: Re: Copy of menu?

Suzanne,

Thank you for your inquiry -- can I ask for what purpose do you need the menu?  It is our standard corporate policy that we do not release our menus.  If you could provide me with some more detail , I may be able to help.

please advise

----- and finally, my explanation and unanswered request-----

I would like to write up my meal for eGullet (probably the first report there since Doug Psaltis left). I’d rather have the correct descriptions than rely only on my perceptions of what was in each dish.

If you cannot send me the entire menu, can you at least let me have the descriptions of the dishes I mentioned, and the wines I had by the glass: the Gruner Veltliner and the French Cabernet Franc?

Suzanne Fass

Sorry, Lauren, somehow your thread escaped my notice. Didn't know you had us all scooped.

In any case: I never ate there before. So my impressions are based only on the here-and-now. And this report is based on my recollections and notes, with a boost from FG's post.

Classic Bellini: Not exactly classic, as it was made with neither Prosecco, nor (apparently) white peach. And it would have been better if, when the wine was poured onto the puree, the two had mixed. As it was made, there was dry wine, and then there was sweet fruit.

Peanut Butter and Jelly Amuse(?): I can only guess that this is the intent. I do know that for me, it did not work. The bread put me in mind of Le Pain Quotidien's rye: dense, chewy, sour -- but seemingly cut and placed in its rack far enough in advance to be somewhat dried out (unless one side was lightly toasted? hard to tell; all I could feel was dry). I love that bread, but it is the ultimate appetite-deadener. I could not bring myself to taste the housemade PB or jelly; again, not my idea of an amuse.

It was, in fact, whisked away once I had ordered, and replaced with more expected bread -- quite good small, white, torpedo-shaped loaves -- once my meal began to arrive.

Gruner Veltliner 2000 (?), Herrenholtz: First, a mention of the "Wine Expert" (as she introduced herself to me): a charming young Japanese woman, clearly more comfortable speaking French (she worked in France before coming here) than English. It took several tried on her part to get me to understand that she was a "Wine Expert" (one of several, I gather, since she was not the only one in a leather apron), and it wasn't all that noisy at the time.

In any case, since I knew what I would be ordering, I asked for her suggestions. This Gruner Veltliner was to go with the "Duck Foie Gras Ravioli with savory broth" -- an odd choice, I thought at first, but hey, she was Ms. Wine Expert. Then I tasted it, and it was . . . not just odd, but totally wrong, to my palate. The wine itself was fine, a crisp, peppery paradigm. Which completely disappeared when drunk with the food.

Duck Foie Gras Ravioli with savory broth: Even though my experience at ADNY led me to believe that the French should not attempt pasta, the other main element of the dish called to me. Did this change my opinion? In a word, maybe. But an N of 1 is not enough evidence. The pasta part was fine, properly al dente, and thin enough so that the edges were not overly chewy. And the broth was indeed savory: a chicken consomme, as I gathered from Ms. W.E. Not particularly hot when poured over the plate, but savory nonetheless. It was the duck foie gras that was curious here. There was plenty of it, on its own as a bed for the ravioli, and mixed with (very very sweet) carrots for the filling. What seemed odd was its texture and taste: more like plain old duck liver than foie, and cooked before being chopped, at that. So it, too, was chewy, rather than expectedly unctuous. And, as already mentioned, it and the wine did each other no favors.

Niebaum-Coppola Cabernet Franc: Obviously not French, as I had said in my e-mail. Started out hugely, roundly, intensely grapey -- not unpleasant, but totally of grapes. Evolved into moderately raisiny. Ms. W.E. redeemed herself. This one worked quite well with:

Duck Breast a l'orange: Fat Guy's description is good, as far as it goes. But it does not go far enough: this may be the best duck dish EVER, for a duck lover. I'm not sure that a nonlover would go for it, though, because the gamey flavor was really, really intense. But yes, the breast virtually melted, it was so tender even at a relatively rare doneness. And the shredded confit and small well-crisped square of leg were also tender and intense. What got me was the at first seemingly bizarre elements of black olive and Belgian endive. Normally, I am not a fan of "a l'orange;" but this had the essence of orange-ness, ever so slightly sweet and citrusy with a good kick of bitterness. Wait -- bitter! that's it!! The olives and endive both contributed their own distinct bitternesses to the dish, and worked as foils to highlight and contrast the richness of the meat and sweetness of the orange. In a word, wow.

(I couldn't tell that the supremes were of tangerine, but I was impressed with the knife skills on them and the endive leaves. As I had been with the carrot matignon in the ravioli filling.)

Green salad: just a nice, plain green salad -- oversalted but otherwise properly (lightly) dressed baby leaves of frisee, tatsoi, red oak leaf, green leaf, and a little radicchio. This was a special request, apparently there is nothing so simple on the menu. On my bill it was listed as "Vegetarian;" and at $13, a bit steep, to my mind, for what was basically mesclum mix.

And the skinny, half-size three-prong fork was just plain ridiculous -- hard to hold, hard to use. I'm not dainty enough to appreciate it, I guess.

Massenez Eau de Vie, Wild Raspberries: intense, almost perfumey nose. My own choice, not recommended by Ms. W.E. Complemented the:

Four Seasons Panna Cotta: the season is mostly still winter, and for that I am grateful. Four shooters, each with a marmalade bottom layer topped with coconut-flavored panna cotta, itself topped with raspberry coulis. The marmalades were banana, orange, grapefruit, and Meyer lemon. Again, I am in total agreement with Fat Guy on their wonderfulness. I was on the verge of embarrassing myself by sticking my tongue into each glass -- necessary since the round spoon does not fit with the squareish glasses. But decorum prevailed.

Espresso: good, if lacking in crema. I was shocked, shocked by the coffee service, though: two nearly-unopenable cylinders, one with packets of artificial sweeteners (the usual pink and blue), and one with plain old white granulated sugar. Deeply disappointing. As bad as if there had been a stack of cheap z-fold paper towels in the restroom (which there was not; the restroom was appropriately classy.)

Post-dessert mignardise: the toasted-sugar-encrusted almonds were pleasant, nothing more nor less. Mine were simply delivered in their quasi-Chinese soup spoon. The table next to me got the production of having them scooped out of the copper bowl in which they were presumably made -- just like the street carts. This, and the madeleines (which I did not take) offered directly from the baking plaque also seemed declasse rather than populist.

Service etc. notes: On my arrival (6 pm), many staff standing around, chatting loudly: not good. As the place filled up, many staff rushing around, doing their jobs: better. Attempts on each course to remove my plate before I was done (not good) but at least they asked rather than just trying to grab it (better). Waiting rather a long time to be asked if I wanted my check: so-so. Being presented with my check without my having asked for it: not good. A bottle of mineral water I did not order placed on my bill: very, very not good. The charge promptly removed: okay, but still. The orange plastic sheath in which the check was presented:

The decor, which made me think of Jacques Tati's Playtime: why do the French think that modern equals 1960s??? And why does anyone still think that the noise created by all hard surfaces (except for the banquettes) equals good buzz?

edited by Phaelon56 at Suzanne F's request to remove names from email contents

Edited May 27, 2004 by phaelon56 (log)

[Fat Guy]

The new menu is a straight-up carte with appetizers (most in the mid- to high-teens), main courses (a big range, from $26 for chicken pot pie to $46 for “New Lobster Newburg,” which I didn't get to try), desserts (mostly $11), and side dishes (most $7-$11 with the elbow macaroni at $14).  ...  ...  It will be interesting to see how the buzz develops over the next few weeks. The prices seem a little high – a full meal at Mix will cost you the same as a full meal at Gramercy Tavern – but you aren't locked into a full meal; I think that will appeal to Mix's target audience.

The premise still seems flawed: at $26 for chicken pot pie (what is essentially a traditional pub food dish), it needs to be extraordinary. Same for a macaroni side dish at $14.

This is exactly the argument I made to the Ducasse team last night. The reality is that the chicken pot pie is extraordinary (or at least it was at Mix I) and the macaroni dish is spiked with truffles, but I don't think this case has been made to the dining public. Nor am I sure the case can be made to the target audience, who might be more enthusiastic about less luxury at a lower price point. The nouvelle comfort food perceived value trap can be difficult to escape.

[Pan]

Thanks for the reports!

Suzanne, what is "N of 1"?

But an N of 1 is not enough evidence.

[jhlurie]

Can we rename this thread:

Mix 2: Electric Bugaloo?

[Suzanne F]

Thanks for the reports!

Suzanne, what is "N of 1"?

But an N of 1 is not enough evidence.

When you do a scientific experiment or analyze data, you need a large enough sample (N = total number of observations or pieces of data) to ensure that your results won't be skewed by the outliers (the observations or pieces of data at the extreme ends of the scale -- the bits at each end of the normal distribution bell curve). So if you only have an N of 1, it means you've collected only one piece of data, and whatever that is will be your result. Not a good statistical sample.

At least, that's how I remember it.

And Mix is rather too expensive for me to gather data there very many times.

[Pan]

Thanks, Suzanne.

[given]

hey steve!

long time no see! hi to everyone else too.

its good to know Mix is still breathing, but I guess I have to agree with Fat Guy:

Doug was inspiring..

There is just something not very inspiring or artisanal about a "re-launch" approximately nine months after opening to meager reviews in the first place.

and steve... there's a difference between being anti-social and being turned off by the idiots who attend "relaunch" press dinners.. you seemed to me to be quiet to those who may not understand what you say, but quite vocal to those that do

[oakapple]

In today's New York Post, Steve Cuozzo puts the hurt on Mix:

A friend who spent years teaching at a fa mous culinary school looked up from his oily film of a sauce at Mix the other night and observed: "I don't believe the chef planned the dishes this way."

No, indeed. Neither Alain Ducasse, the co-owner, nor Damon Gordon, the chef de cuisine, likely intended the evening's cavalcade of bloopers, which included entrees that arrived nearly cold. Is this the newly relaunched Mix's idea of "a culinary rebirth and refreshing new approach?"

.... .... ....

Although Mix no longer mugs you with a $72 prix fixe, it clings to its pocket-picking ways. Three (just three) watery scallops set us back $32. "New" lobster Newburg is labor-intensive, and the result — after poaching and reheating and piperade mold-making — is worth the effort. But it's not worth $46 for three lobster nuggets barely bigger than walnuts.

[aaustin]

Just curious....anyone been here lately?

[tan319]

To answer your question for the others, I guess not..

It's been a weird week or two for the Ducasse organization, now Damon Gordon is gone, the MIX concept has been changed to 'Franceso at MIX', Francesco Berardinelli that is, and the concept is Tuscany.

All of this according to 'The Strong Buzz', Food 'n' Culture writer Andrea Strongs newsletter.

http://thestrongbuzz.com/

I wonder how long this will last?

I love the whole 'SPOON' concept, and I've always thought that MIX NYC and now MIX Las Vegas, read like the American version of SPOON.

I plunked down 185.00 bucks for the BIG SPOON cookbook, I'm a fan. Where did this whole thing go wrong?

I've read very uneven things about the L.V. restaurant.

Any thoughts?

And has anyone tried the new one?

Just curious....anyone been here lately?

←

[tan319]

Fat Guy wrote this way back when,04/27/04

"This is Ducasse's Bay of Pigs.

As a strong believer in both Ducasse and Psaltis, I've got to agree with Given -- who by the way was the best waiter at Mix -- that this whole incident feels like a bait-and-switch, a sellout, a betrayal, and a "deniability debacle."

I don't think any reasonable person would begrudge Ducasse the right to make some money by lending his name to a Chodorow-type crapola emporium. But that's not the story the true believers were told: Mix was supposed to be serious, Mix was serious, serious chefs and cooks like Psaltis and his kitchen team staked their reputations and livelihoods on it, writers like Jeffrey Steingarten and I championed it, and then this.

I suppose Ducasse simply lacks the economic leverage to tell Chodorow to go fuck himself. Still, he could have handled this better. Here's hoping this was a one-time mistake and that Ducasse can earn back the credibility he sacrificed when he stranded his troops on Chodorow's beach."

Does this statement, even though he wrote it about another chef, still apply?

Fat Guy wrote this about Damon Gordon, 05/26/04

"I wandered downstairs into the kitchen to get a look at Damon Gordon. I interrogated him about his background, which is no joke. I'll try to get an official bio on him but he's worked for Ducasse, Ramsay, Troisgras . . . I think that's what he said. "

Wow, he got thrown too, amazing...

[raxelita]

I've heard they are featuring a new eponymous chef each year, beginning with Francesco. Anybody back my sources up?

[Fat Guy]

I've heard that's one of a few ridiculous ideas that got bounced around, but there doesn't seem to be an official long-term plan and I wouldn't suggest that any story is official until it's official. In particular, with respect to China Grill Management, there are so many people out there with axes to grind that it's hard to take the rumors seriously. As for official sources, the web site still reads as though nothing has changed since Psaltis was there, I don't know anybody who's eating there and as far as I know there haven't been any press releases since the Gordon opening party.

It really seems as though the China Grill Management people have gone off the deep end: Caviar and Banana, English is Italian and now the revolving door at Mix. I suppose they must be making money with these concepts, but it's all so pathetic. I don't know which would be more embarrassing: for the whole China Grill Management strategy to be motivated purely by cynicism; or for it to be motivated by true belief.

Ted, I don't think there's a parallel. Gordon was brought in to dumb the place down. You can't be a true believer in dumbing down. What did he expect?

[oakapple]

Andrea Strong writes, "I would rather see Chodorow drop this Mix nonsense, scratch the concept, start fresh and reopen with a new name and design. Band-Aids like this tend not to stop the bleeding."

This is from a reviewer who seldom has a bad word to say about any restaurant.

[Fat Guy]

But the unique selling proposition of the Mix concept is that the Ducasse name is associated with it. That makes it very difficult to justify scrapping it in favor of a non-Ducasse concept. Anyway, the original Mix concept was great. Everybody was just too stupid to make it work. It could have been the New York version of Spoon, but better, if China Grill Management hadn't screwed it up.

[tan319]

Ted, I don't think there's a parallel. Gordon was brought in to dumb the place down. You can't be a true believer in dumbing down. What did he expect?

←

I wasn't suggesting a parallel, just that the pedigree of chefs involved (not to suggest that Gordon was in the same league as Psaltis, I have no idea on that).

I suppose that's the restaurant game, seems kind of sad though...

I agree with Strong, just get it over with, start a new place.

Oh, I give Caviar and Banana, whatever it's called, till the end of the year, with this time next year as the max.

Admin: The discussion thread archive for Mix under chef Doug Psaltis may be found here. The discussion thread for Mix under chef Francesco Berardinelli and renamed as "Francesco at Mix" may be found here