Bukhara Grill

[vivin]

After a really good performance at the opera (Sat matinee), we decided that we wanted to eat Indian. So we sauntered over to our favorite Bukhara Grill on 49th and 3rd (next to Wollenski's Grill (on 49th).

Although I have been eating there since the restaurant opened, I have not really posted a detailed account of my experiences there. Bukhara warrants a detailed post because of three reasons.

One, the food is consistently really good. So much so that this is the only Indian restaurant we will go to regularly although I live in Connecticut (hint to the Bukhara management - you could own Fairfield County's Indian food clientele if you opened here). This is also the only Indian restaurant I know of where the chef is a partner (that I am sure contributes to the quality and consistency).

Two, the service is superlative (on par with the best 5-star experiences in NYC - that is saying something). What they lack in refinement and ultra expensive decor, they make up for in enthusiasm.

Three, this is as close to haute cuisine experience as I have gotten with Indian food. I have had out of body 10 course meal experiences there when I have let one of the two owners (Raja and Vicky) orchestrate the meal You could just as easily be satisfied with a quick meal from their lunch buffet but here is my recipe for the truly gluttonous out there. My typical eat till I drop meal at Bukhara goes something like this. Let one of the owners know that you are there for a grand meal and give him some general preferences and be ready for a superb 6-8 course meal that is satisfying in every way.

It is customary to let them decide what ever is fresh made for the day - usually "chat" or "aloo tikki". These are their versions of the amuse bioche. Tantalizing tit bits of potatoes fried with chick peas and crisp wafers with tamarind and cilantro chutney.

Let the procession of appetizers begin. they do roasted/grilled items in tandoor really well. Their versions of "Malai Kabab" with succulent marinated cubes of chicken is delicious when tried with raw onions and greens for texture. The marination is perfect and the spices actually let the taste of the meat out. "Burra kabab" is marinated roasted pieces of goat that uses only certain parts (I forget which) that are really flavorful. If overcooked (as I have had in other places) this dish WILL closely approximate the texture of tire rubber quite well. Eat immediately while still hot. These two dishes keep the hope alive that Indian cooking is not just about killing the natural flavor of the meats by overspicing and overcooking in some broth or the other.

"Paneer tikka" - giant cubes of home made cheese marinated and roasted in a tandoor - a must have. Whole roasted potatoes stuffed with spices and god knows what else. Whole mushrooms grilled and finally, "veggie seekh kabobs" that are made by chopping/grinding vegetables that are shaped around giant skewers and roasted in a tandoor. This has not worked for me anywhere else.

I would urge you to taste a bunch of main dishes -"Daal Bukhara" (lentils), "Chana Peshawri" (chick peas cooked in spices in authentic frontier style, some eggplant dishes that occasionally crop up with/without yoghurt based sauces that are eye opening, "paneer bhurji" cheese scrambled with spices and some chopped veggies. The new item on the menu – “Kurkuri Bhindi” is a home run -  Okra sliced and spiced and cooked to a crip. (Note to Indian scotch drinkers: This could be an addictive munchy to accompany your drinks) "Roghun Josh" or whatever they call their classic goat dish slow cooked in brown sauce is amazing. I tend to dislike chicken in sauce combinations so can not comment on those.

They make their desserts from scratch in house and I would taste at least two - "kheer" with chopped almonds and ground pistachios is my favorite (not too sweet and brimming with flavor). I also had fresh "gulabjamuns" (balls of dough in syrup - usually is gross in most places but excellent when done well as at Bukhara).

You need to top off the meal with their "masala tea" that is perfect at settling you down after a long and heavy meal. Cognac will be forced upon you (usually on the house) unless explicitly denied.

What happens after you have tasted 7 or 8 dishes all done consistently very well, topped off with light desserts. Aaaaah! I would not put it in the same league with the best Japanese, Italian or French meals I have had (a la Nobu, Babbo etc) with regards to creativity or refinement. But (and this is a huge but) I would rather head to Bukhara than drop 赨+ at Jean Georges for an uninspired tasting menu the likes of which NYC is full of.

Is this kind of meal heavy? Undeniably. Too much spices? No. Full of flavor? Yes. My advice is to go with a bunch of friends so you can taste a lot of different things (as outlined above) without stuffing yourself silly. Four works well. Six is perfect.

[robert brown]

Vivin, are you Indian? Thanks for what sounds like a great suggestion. Do you know if this restaurant has anything to do with the old Bukhara that was next door to the Helmsley Hotel on E. 48th (or 47th) maybe five years ago?

[vivin]

Robert,

I am Indian but immigrated to the States 14 yrs ago. I am not sure about the old Bukhara but one of the owners worked at Diwan Grill (also in the 40s between Lex and 3rd??).

[Pan]

What are the prices like at Bukhara?

You know, given the name, I would have thought it was an Uzbek place!

Thanks for a great post, Vivin.

[Fat Guy]

http://bukharagrill.citysearch.com/

[vivin]

If you tasted a lot of items you could spend between 50-75 per head incl tax and tip BUT can get easily get out for under 50 pp.

cheers,

Vivin.

[Andy Lynes]

Does this place have any connection to the restaurant in Delhi?

[Pan]

Thanks for the link, Steven. The prices don't look all that expensive, providing that the dishes are as large as usual for New York Indian restaurants, such that one dish would be enough for a decent-sized meal for one person. I think that I'll take my curry-loving Indo-Guyanese friend there for dinner one of these days.

[ahr]

A discount coupon ("Get 15% off lunch or dinner") for the new Bukhara Grill at 230 East 58th Street may be found on page 38 of this week's New York Press.  The ad doesn't say so explicitly, but I'm going to assume that this applies as well to the $13.95 AYCE lunch buffet.

That block is turning into quite an uptown, upscale Sixth Street.

[tommy]

i'm not sure i'd have the energy to present a coupon to save 2 dollars.  

[Suvir Saran]

Bukhara Grill merits a visit.   The Naan is very good.  And the food is is better than what its neighbors are serving in that block.

[ahr]

i'm not sure i'd have the energy to present a coupon to save 2 dollars.  

Then you must not be a quarter-roller.  And hey, it applies to dinner as well.

The point, of course, was to note the restaurant opening.  I very much enjoyed my lunch at the original on 48th Street.

[tommy]

The point, of course, was to note the restaurant opening.  I very much enjoyed my lunch at the original on 48th Street.

ahhh!  i thought that name sounded familiar.  it's on 48th around 3rd or so?  i've heard good things about it and have been meaning to try the lunch buffet.

[Suvir Saran]

It is indeed on 48th between 2nd and 3rd.  

They now have a new branch on the same street as Dawat, Chola and Ada.  It seems to have more promise than the other restaurants in that street.

[ahr]

Having just read on the India board that Bukhara Grill is related to, or at least inherited staff from, the original Bukhara in New Delhi, I'm now curious: Is this their first attempt at U.S. penetration?  I remember a Bukhara Grill from about ten years ago, also in the East 40's, with excellent breads and grilled meats (except for one leg of lamb from which raw alcohol had been insufficiently evaporated), eaten with one's hands while wearing a terrycloth apron amidst formidable decor of much wood and stamped metal.

[sibbell]

I had dinner at Bukhara on 49th on Friday.  Very disapointing.  Lamb vindaloo, which I had asked to be made "hot" - waqsn't.  Raita very watery, and naan very doughy.  Maybe I hit an off night, but for $55 for one (two glasses of okay wine), wouldn't go back.

[anil]

I had dinner at Bukhara on 49th on Friday.  Very disapointing.  Lamb vindaloo, which I had asked to be made "hot" - waqsn't.  Raita very watery, and naan very doughy.  Maybe I hit an off night, but for $55 for one (two glasses of okay wine), wouldn't go back.

If Bukhara Grill is true to it's name, and origins, then I'd *never* order a vindaloo there.

Vindaloos are goan, and I found only once ('85 on 43rd between 6th & 7th) in an indian dive-of-a-restaurant. The cook was a konkan, cooking uninspired north-indian fare.

On a cold blizzardy afternoon, I asked him what he could whip up for dinner that evening.

Pork Vindaloo.

[Suvir Saran]

Yes Vindaloo is a poor dish to be eaten in most all Indian restaurants.  Very few chefs know how to really make it.  And actually, the dish was meant to be only cooked with Pork.  Not that it should matter.

Yes they do have chef from the Delhi Bukhara.  And no, it has no connection to the Bukhara from 48th Street that is now Patang. No, I take it back, the owner of these 2 Bukharas worked at what was Diwan Grill that was the name of Bukhara after the Sheraton Group sold it.  So they do have some connection to the NYC Bukhara.

And the chef at Diwan who was from Bukhara New Delhi, became the chef at Tamarind.  He is the wizard of Tandoori cooking.  He left Tamarind a few months back and is now in San Francisco.  New York lost a shining star with his leaving our city.

I have had amazing Naans at Bukhaara consistently.  The best I have had in NYC.  I am sad to hear the bread was too doughy.. or not that good.  Pity.  Give them another try.. and tell your server that you want to experience the food of the North West Frontier.  Or ask for the manager or owners Raja, Vicky or Sanjay depending on which location you are at and when, and tell them Suvir Saran sent you.  They will know then to make sure you get real food.  One would hope all are served authentic meals.

[tommy]

i'm confused.  is there still a "bukhara" on 48th street?  if so, it's not related to the one on 58th?  if not, is the new place as good as either the old bukhara or the new bukhara?

[Suvir Saran]

The first Bukhara Grill to open was on 49th street between 2nd and 3rd Avenues.  And it is still there.. and doing well.  They recently opened another branch on the same street as Dawat.

[tommy]

at the risk of sounding cheap, do we know for sure that the 49th street branch has a lunch buffet?  and is it any good?

[tommy]

fyi,

their citysearch website click here has a 15% coupon as well.  i suppose you just print out the page.

[tommy]

ok screw all of you.  i went.  they had the buffet.  14 bucks or something.  very very good.  and a 23 dollar riesling on the menu.  you can't get hurt here.

[Suvir Saran]

The wine list at Bukhara Grill at both locations is very good.  They have done a nice job finding wines that work well with Indian food.

[anil]

The wine list at Bukhara Grill at both locations is very good.  They have done a nice job finding wines that work well with Indian food.

I've always wondered about appropriate wines with indian food ? What are ther ?

If a Chianti Reservo (sp?) is *not* on the list then I could not take it seriously  

After all I sometimes say hold the food, serve the Chianti -- Maybe some day I'll get enough time to write about my travels through that wine making region.