Birthday Trip to Paris - Merged topics

[molto e]

Hello l'il ms foodie!

I ate dinner at Le Bristol four days ago (based strongly upon molto... er, Eliot's stunning photojournal, my experience at M. Frechon's previous bistrot, and Pudlowski's rather outright raves). It was, frankly, fabulous. Taillevent has more pomp and circumstance, L'Ambroisie a *slightly* higher level of perfection of technique (in a sort of OCD manner), and Arpege is more conceptual, but the food at Le Bristol just TASTES GOOD. Frechon is a master at intensifying flavors through concentration of similar ingredients (think Ducasse's lobster risotto with lobster stock, lobster meat, lobster butter, etc.), intelligent use of temperature, and balance of sweetness and saltiness. The food is pretty but straightforward: While there's flashy tableside service, much uncovering of silver domes, and the dishes are precisely plated, plates are not crowded or speckled with superfluous garnishes, edible or otherwise.

All that said, I'll try to give you some ups and downs of my particular experience. I'll start with the "downs," which could be more correctly stated as "ways in which Le Bristol differs from Mayur's imaginary perfect restaurant":

1) The room (Salon d'Hiver; the summer room wasn't open when I went) is comfortable and quite luxurious, but (perhaps because this is a hotel restaurant) lacks the defined aesthetic of some other rooms in Paris: Not the cool modernism of Gagnaire, the romance of Le Cinq, or the period dignity of L'Ambroisie.

2) There is a degree of inflexibility regarding the menu. Felice is correct that there are two menus available at lunch (a 75E seasonal menu and the 160E full menu degustation, which is the same as at dinner). However, the a la carte selections at Le Bristol (including the three most impressive dishes I tried: The macaroni, the poularde de Bresse, and the pork with truffles) are all SO fantastic-looking that you will, inevitably, find yourself unable to commit fully to the menu degustation. And it is a full commitment: the restaurant requires that all the people at the table take the menu degustation if it is ordered, and getting substitutions or additional courses requires a bit of diplomacy. (We sneaked in the macaroni, but had to come back separately for the poularde de Bresse.)

Moreover, the restaurant does not do half portions, meaning that if you do order a la carte, you really are limited to two courses plus dessert (and/or cheese). This creates a serious dilemma, as the menu is absolutely worth it and (I hate to say this with regard to a 3-star-level haute cuisine meal!) a good value; ordering a la carte is considerably more expensive.

3) I ate one thing which was less than perfect: My ris de veau (the meat course) was a bit firm on the bottom. However, this may have been more a problem with service than with the kitchen: My girlfriend's, and her sister's, were perfectly prepared, and mine was the last to be served. Given that it was table service, and that the portions were arranged one on top of the other and then fanned, the service platter might simply have been overheated.

So much for the "downsides." Here are my reasons why you should go:

1) Warmth of service. M. Courant is a charming, witty, and I dare say even jolly host with a genuine desire to please. I was there with two young ladies (20 and 24, respectively), one of whom was under the weather and the other of whom had never eaten at a haute cuisine restaurant (let alone one at this level) before, and both of them had a relaxed good time. Thus, for a birthday party, I think it's a great place, especially if you're interested in having a bit more "fun" than at a place like the French Laundry.

2) Warmth of service, Part 2. At the suggestion of another poster here (mdibiaso) I had a chat with the sommelier, Jerome Moreau (ex-Lucas Carton), who turned out to be great fun to spend the evening with. He brought us exceptionally interesting wine pairings (and had a quiz and subsequent discussion on region, grape, vintage, and grower for each one!), showed up with a surprise glass for two courses, provided advice on the menu, and commiserated with my girlfriend's sister on the difficulties of her year abroad in Paris (he lived in London when her age). Thus, not only were the wine service and wines (for value, no less) on par with the best I've ever had (actually, this might be the single best wine service I've ever had), but we had a great deal of fun tasting and discussing our wine. Nor was this particularly intrusive, as I have encountered in some restaurants whose primary focus is the wine list; we had plenty of time and space to concentrate on food and conversation.

3) The food again. To be honest, much as I like the savory courses, Gilles Marechal's desserts were my favorite part of dinner. Really amazing: clever in concept, varied in tastes and textures, and all-out delicious.

Finally, as for "value for money": We had the menu degustation, vintage Laurent-Perrier to start, matched wines of excellent quality, and cognac and Armagnac to finish, all for about 250E a head. I'd say it was worth it!

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Mayur,

I am glad that you enjoyed Le Bristol. I am jealous that you and Felice have made it there recently and I pine to return. This was the best meal of the trip that included El Bulli, Arzak, Gagnaire, Le Cinq amongst others and I think of it often. I have found that most restaurants require the whole table to order the tasting menu so I am not sure if that should be held against Chef Frechon. I would agree with you that the summer room is more majestic than the winter room, but a smoking pig's bladder with a succulent Bresse chicken hidden inside can make up for that. I think the combination of Frechon and Marechal as Chef and Pastry Chef is pretty hard to beat and we loved the desserts as well.

Molto E

[Mayur]

Mayur,

            I am glad that you enjoyed Le Bristol. I am jealous that you and Felice have made it there recently and I pine to return. This was the best meal of the trip that included El Bulli, Arzak, Gagnaire, Le Cinq amongst others and I think of it often. I have found that most restaurants require the whole table to order the tasting menu so I am not sure if that should be held against Chef Frechon. I would agree with you that the summer room is more majestic than the winter room, but a smoking pig's bladder with a succulent Bresse chicken hidden inside can make up for that. I think the combination of Frechon and Marechal as Chef and Pastry Chef is pretty hard to beat and we loved the desserts as well.

Molto E

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Signor Molto,

I'd been meaning to post and THANK YOU for the amazing recommendation! We had a wonderful time, and it was really your photojournal piece (and subsequent suggestions) that inspired me to go in the first place!

I certainly do NOT hold the tasting menu policy against the kitchen; my list of "downsides" was really tongue in cheek. Some people do place a high premium on particular features, so I figured I'd point out the ones that aren't characteristic of the restaurant.

I also agree with you about the primacy of Le Bristol compared with the other institutions that you've listed (although I've never been to El Bulli; suggestions on how to get a reservation without jumping through too many hoops would be appreciated!). This place, IMHO, is a solid three-star establishment and deserves to be ranked among Europe's best.

[little ms foodie]

Thank you so much everyone, my first choice is Le Bristol so my friend who lives in Paris is planning to call in the next day or two. Fingers crossed......

[M.X.Hassett]

Le bristol is a wonderful choice I have not been in years, many years. I beleive it was under another chefs helm at the time. But looking at the website the memorys came flooding over me. Proust like. My first cigar and sip of fine cognac sitting at the bar(what better place to have your first sip of fine liquor and puff of a Monte). The spectaculer suites. Ringing in the new year in the dining room and then wandering the avenues of Paris, street carts selling champagne and fireworks on every corner. The sun on new years day coming up. Oh the memorys ok I am getting misty eyed now and that is something I don't do. LMFoodie have a great trip and birthday I hope it works out better then the WD-50 suggestion(sorry). Oh god and that great elevator, and the South African diamond man on the cell phone in the sauna, early massages by the pool. Ok I need to stop now and book a flight.

Edited November 8, 2005 by M.X.Hassett (log)

[little ms foodie]

ok everyone....I DID NOT hate wd-50 and want you all to stop apologizing!!! I'm just more of a romantic about my food and I'm hoping that we get our ressies at Bristol!

By the way this Paris trip is just the first leg of our journey, we will be traveling to St Petersberg the day after Christmas!! We just got our visas today. VERY excited for such an adventurous holiday season!!

[TarteTatin]

John-

You recommended the above non touristy places, do you have the addresses or arrond.?

My Parisian friend doesn't know the places (but she really doesn't "get out much" for meals...)

Yesterday we lucked out at Le Comptoir for lunch, will write later...wonderful. Chez Janou was okay, and we had a HORRIBLE meal at a Frommer's recommendation in the 6th, right by the Jardin Luxembourg, called Chez Gramond! We think Madame used an old bottle of some sort of wine and re-corked it...we'll write at length soon.

[pirate]

John-

You recommended the above non touristy places, do you have the addresses or arrond.?

My Parisian friend doesn't know the places (but she really doesn't "get out much" for meals...)

Yesterday we lucked out at Le Comptoir for lunch, will write later...wonderful. Chez Janou was okay, and we had a HORRIBLE meal at a Frommer's recommendation in the 6th, right by the Jardin Luxembourg, called Chez Gramond! We think Madame used an old bottle of some sort of wine and re-corked it...we'll write at length soon.

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I lunched with a colleague at Le Comptoir a bit more than a week ago while on a Paris visit. It didn't seem particuliarly touristy. One of the specials that day was preserved salmon which was served still in its small jar. Preserved salmon is one of my favorites from Benoit (before Ducasse). The Le Comptoir version was clearly and distinctly inferior. The main dish of cochon de lait with lentils was okay. Among the other bistros at which i ate was the Bistro Haussmann adjacent to the Jacquemart-Andre museum which was okay, and that high end bistro, the Relais-Plaza,

where I had a excellent rendition of Cepes a la Bordelaise. I liked the cepes as served at L'Ambroisie better. The saddle of lamb served at the Relais-Plaza was not up to that at L'Ambroisie.

[John Talbott]

John-

You recommended the above non touristy places, do you have the addresses or arrond.?

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Do a search with their names and my name and they'll be there in reviews I've done this year.

[little ms foodie]

Wahooo...... we have reservations for Le Bristol, party of 3, 8 pm on my birthday. Thank you so much for all your suggestions. We can't wait!!!

[molto e]

Wahooo...... we have reservations for Le Bristol, party of 3, 8 pm on my birthday. Thank you so much for all your suggestions. We can't wait!!!

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Wendy,

Have a great birthday dinner-I am so jealous.

Molto E

[docsconz]

Wahooo...... we have reservations for Le Bristol, party of 3, 8 pm on my birthday. Thank you so much for all your suggestions. We can't wait!!!

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Wendy,

Have a great birthday dinner-I am so jealous.

Molto E

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Me too.

What are your culinary plans for St. Petersburg, Wendy? Perhaps you should start another topic on that if you haven't already.