Mexican and Diana Kennedy

[Msk]

I hear her works lauded all over the place, and I bought her most recent book, the one thats the compilation of her prior work. After perusing it, I am finding it quite intimidating, since I feel like I need a translation for every other ingredient.

I went out and bought one of the prior books for the description of ingredients and the pictures.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Im thinking of trying some of the salsas/sauces first. Ultimately I'd like to make tamales. I have purchased the needed equipement from Mexigrocer as well.

All input is welcome.

Msk

[Jaymes]

Much of what is so beloved about Mexican food is quick, fresh, easy. Tamales, obviously don't fit into that category, so I wouldn't start there.

You cannot make decent Mexican food without having at least two or three salsas in your repertoire, so indeed that's a good place to start. You should be able to make one good cooked salsa, one good fresh salsa (salsa fresca, or pico de gallo), and one good green salsa. Also, if you start with the salsas, you can eat them on things you already know how to prepare, like eggs.

You'll also need to know how to cook up a pot of decent Mexican beans. And how to properly serve them. You'll need them to go with lots of things. You'll need to know how to mash them into refritos.

Next, I'd suggest enchiladas. Learn how to make red, green, cheese, chicken, beef.

Carne guisada, (either red or green chile stew) is also a good basic dish to learn. The technique is the same as any stew, so you should already know that. It's just a matter of adjusting the ingredients. You should have no trouble mastering it.

And guacamole. It's a good "go-with" and now that you know how to make a delicious Mexican dinner, your friends will expect you to invite them over, and they'll be expecting some guacamole.

¡Buen provecho!

Edited February 26, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[Mabelline]

There's an old book about New Mexico cooking by Huntley Dent that had the best plot for diving into Mexican food. On day one, you made tortillas; on day two,frijoles, and tortillas; day three, refritos, tortillas,and salsa; day four,add carne adovado to the others. By the time it was done the plan had you cooking like a tia because you were conversant and comfortable with it all, and not confused anymore.

[rancho_gordo]

I always think tacos are an easy, fun way to get started. You could make up three or four different salsas, have poached, shredded chicken and a load of good tortillas (homemade would add to the lesson). You could also have raw white onion, cilantro, limes, crema, cheese. etc. Make some beans as a side and maybe an orange/beet/jicama salad.

The salsas can be made early in the afternoon so you can experiment or make mistakes.

For drinks, you can make jamaica water.

Desert can be flan, made the day before.

Kind of easy, right? Lots of components but all easy and mostly do ahead.

And you could post questions all along the way. But I think maybe you should post in the Mexican forum rather than general cooking.

Good luck! Once you get the rhythm, a lot of Mexican food is very similar to make. But I think it really is another cusine, unlike say Cuban, which is more specific dishes.

[Msk]

Thanks for the great recommendations. I see tamales as the end-game not the beginning. My wife and I love Mexican, and its the one area that I am sorely lacking skills in. I plan on changing that.

Jaymes,

Is there any one particular recipe you might like to share? If I had a list of your recipes I'd surely have started with it. Or if there was an eGCI course from you (Hint Hint!)

Can I use the standard Maseca for most Masa recipes? Do I need the Tamale version for the Tamales? Whats the best substitute for corn husks if I don't have any in a pinch (Parchment? Foil?)

Thanks again guys, I think I'll work on that repertoire of 3 salsas Jaymes mentioned. Now off the figure out which recipes to use.

Msk

[Dana]

Tamales are a long process, but doable if you've got a couple of days and some helpers. I have used the recipe on the back of the corn husk package (Fiesta Brand, from San Antonio, I think) for the last two years with great results. If you do the meat the day before, and have a good stand mixer for the masa, you can do it!!! Make the whole batch, freeze in packages of a dozen each, and enjoy.

[Jaymes]

I don't make tamales myself. I have a close Mexican friend, and every December she has a "Tamalada" and I go to that. I can call her and ask her about the masa.

Here is my best, most basic, Mexican recipe. It's for a cooked red salsa. It was given to me years ago by a friend that owned a beauty salon. She spoke no English. I had tasted her salsa and knew that it was what I wanted to be my "mainstay." She wouldn't tell me how she did it. One day, I went into her shop for a perm and she fried my hair. She was all upset and apologetic and (I think) maybe even afraid I'd sue. She asked what she could do to make it up to me.

So here's the recipe. Most people that taste it ask for the recipe, and I don't mind giving it out like that because those people have had it and know it's good and will prepare it like I tell them to. But I don't normally give it out like this because I have to threaten people within an inch of their lives to do it the way I say. Unless they've tasted it, and are willing to follow instructions to create the thing they've sampled, people (especially people that consider themselves to be good cooks) absolutely cannot RESIST trying to fiddle with it from the gitgo.

So I'm trusting you.

Salsa

This is a very basic recipe for a very basic salsa, most likely the number one type of salsa used in Mexican cooking. This is actually an exceedingly simple method of preparing a cooked salsa (it's just long because I'm so wordy).

Canned whole tomatoes - look on label to be positive nothing has been added other than tomatoes and salt. No vegetables, not even "Mexican style." Don't use fresh tomatoes. This is a shortcut recipe for producing a "cooked salsa." If you've "put up" your own tomatoes, and used nothing but salt, then fine, use them. But NOT fresh tomatoes.

Fresh jalapeños - find fat, bright green ones

Garlic salt - again, look on label to be certain nothing has been added but garlic and salt. Be careful not to get "California Blend" which has other things in it.

BASIC RECIPE:

Wash and dry whole jalapeños. On hot, non-greased surface (I just use a skillet) blister whole jalapeños, turning often, and watching to be sure they don't burn. You want nice dark brown spots, and the entire pepper to have lost its shiny green color, instead being a dull avocado color (like kitchen appliances from the 70's). You can also do this in an oven or (best of all) on a barbecue grill or over other wood fire. I rarely bother. I make a lot of this, and don't always have time to fire up the grill. If I want a smoky flavor for some reason, I add it later (see bottom notes).

Drain cans of tomatoes (you can reserve liquid for another use; for example, if you add a little salt and lemon juice, you can drink it just like regular tomato juice) and place tomatoes into blender or food processor. Pulse until desired consistency (I like mine kind of chunky, so don't process until it's too smooth) and pour into large mixing bowl. Continue doing this until you reach the amount of salsa you want.

Take some of your pulsed tomatoes and return it to the blender/processor. Cut the stems from your cooked jalapeños and add. You can, obviously, add as many as you want for desired picante. I usually add about three whole jalapeños per blender-full of salsa, but this is entirely subjective depending on who's going to be doing the eating. (Note - if you want more flavor but less heat, you can remove the seeds and, most important, the veins, which are the source of the capsicum oil in the peppers that causes the heat. My friend didn't drain her tomatoes, and she added probably twenty jalapenos per blender, so her salsa was much runnier, and much hotter than mine. It was like liquid fire. But on the other hand, she was pleasing a houseful of Mexicans, whereas I had to please a houseful of gringos.) Now, pulse to chop the jalapeños, stopping before you pulverize the seeds, which makes it bitter.

Pour your chopped jalapeños in with your tomatoes. Add garlic salt "to taste" and I know this is subjective, but I "eyeball it" and all I can tell you is that if your salsa does not taste "right" it is undoubtedly because you haven't added enough, so add more and taste it again. Remember that salsa is a garnish so you want it a little salty, plus the flavor of salt decreases when the dish is cold (like cold soups, and salsa), so don't stint.

This is your basic salsa. Do it like this FIRST and get the flavors right before you branch out.

Okay.

Now, you're ready to branch out.

In addition to what I've already described, I always add: 1.) a little oil; can be any type of vegetable oil - I usually add olive oil; say a tablespoon per blender load, I guess. 2.) a little acid -- vinegar works just fine and is what I usually use, but also lemon or lime juice, or a mixture of all three -- again, sorry, "to taste," probably a tablespoon or so per blender load. 3.) cilantro - I like it and add it, usually right before the jalapeños and using the same method -- put a little of the tomatoes back into the blender/processor and add the cilantro and process, being very careful not to over-process.

This is all I usually do, and my salsa is wonderful.

Trust me on this and just make it like this a time or two. Don't immediately think to yourself, "I can make it better. I can add onions. I wonder why Jaymes didn't add onions. Maybe Jaymes has never heard of onions."

I have heard of onions. But I do not usually add them. Nor anything else other than the tomatoes, garlic salt, jalapenos, oil, vinegar, cilantro.

But sometimes, if I am going to use it for a dip, I will occasionally chop up and add: a fresh tomato (especially in the summer when the tomatoes are so wonderful); chopped onions (any kind will do -- green onions, whatever) and cubed avocado -- that makes a nice dip. But MOST of the time I don't!

Other things you can eventually experiment with adding (only AFTER you've fixed it enough times to have the hang of it): liquid smoke, oregano, other kinds of peppers (habañeros, serranos, etc.), chile powder, cumin, sugar (yes, some people like a sweet salsa), Tapatío or other bottled Mexican hot sauce, or whatever else hits your imagination to try. But the secret is to first master the basic sauce and resist the urge to start adding stuff in order to "improve" it. Just wait a while before you try to get fancy, or you'll add so much stuff that you mess it up. (Remember that if you add a lot of chopped fresh tomatoes or avocados, you'll need to add more garlic salt as well.)

Now that you've got your salsa all jarred up and waiting for you in the fridge, take a flour tortilla and lay some sliced mild cheddar onto half of it, fold the other half over to make a half-moon shape, zap it in the microwave a minute or two until the cheese melts, pour your cold salsa all over it and eat it. With some sliced avocados alongside, of course.

This salsa is also wonderful with plain cheese omelets. And everything else that is good with salsa. Which in our house pretty much is everything else.

Edited February 26, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[Msk]

Jaymes,

Thank you so much for that contribution. I promise to make the recipe exactly as you describe until I have ample experience with it. It sounds very tasty.

I am a good student and will do as I'm told!

One quick question. This is considered a cooked salsa even when only the Jalapenos are roasted?

Thanks, I can't wait to give this a try.

Msk

[Jaymes]

One quick question. This is considered a cooked salsa even when only the Jalapenos are roasted?

The tomatoes, too, are "cooked." Just not by you.

[Msk]

Duhhh, makes sense. Not sure why I never realized canned tomatoes were cooked.

Msk

[Jaymes]

If you like, after you get this all made, you can fry it. The way you'd do that (if you want to be Mexican about it), would be to get some lard sizzling in a large pot or Dutch oven, and then pour some of the salsa in. You stir and fry while it pops and sizzles (which it does a lot of, which is why you need a deep pan). Think "scrambled eggs," only it doesn't harden. And then when it looks "right," you pour it out. Many Mexican salsas are fried that way.

You can use these same proportions and use fresh tomatoes, and fry it in lard as well. If you do that, be sure to peel the tomatoes first, and leave out the oil in the recipe. You can also use fresh garlic and chop the jalapenos and fry it all up together (although I still prefer to blister the jalapenos separately).

But I just usually do it the "shortcut" way. Much easier, and better for you than frying it in lard.

Edited February 26, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[Jake]

Jaymes -- recipe is almost identical to mine, except I use fresh garlic. As I'm out right now, going home tonight to make some your way!

BTW, I made your soup -- fantastic!!!!!!!!! A million thank you's

[fredbram]

At some point, fairly early in the process, you'll want to make a salsa that involves a base of dried chiles--either guajillos or pasillas, most likely. This becomes my basic red sauce for enchiladas. I know that Diana has several recipes along these lines, it usually consists of the chiles, which are seeded, dry fried, and soaked in boiling water, pureed with pan-charred onions, pan-roasted garlic cloves, and water. Sometimes nothing else (well, salt). This salsa is then fried in lard, like Jaymes described, and simmered a bit.

It is a great tomato-less red sauce for multiple applications, and there are a million variations/elaborations on it.

[budrichard]

What you need is a'SuperMercado'(Large Mexican Grocery Store) so you can investigate the ingrediants and purchase what you need. -Dick

[Cynthia G]

Yes Jaymes, that's almost exactly the way I make my basic everyday salsa too. But I use fresh garlic like Jake and always add the olive oil and a splash of fresh lime juice.

Your list of essentials at the top is about what I would have said... and now I'm hungry!

[Jaymes]

and a splash of fresh lime juice.

Have you ever tried vinegar? Either and/or. It's a close call, but I think I prefer it.

Edited February 26, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[ExtraMSG]

I hear her works lauded all over the place, and I bought her most recent book, the one thats the compilation of her prior work. After perusing it, I am finding it quite intimidating, since I feel like I need a translation for every other ingredient.

I went out and bought one of the prior books for the description of ingredients and the pictures.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Im thinking of trying some of the salsas/sauces first. Ultimately I'd like to make tamales. I have purchased the needed equipement from Mexigrocer as well.

I have a feeling that you've got her bibliography a little mixed up. But it's hard to say since you don't name the titles.

Her most recent book is From My Mexican Kitchen (not an eGullet link, someone PM how to do this):

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846

Her compilation book is Essential Cuisines:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846

Both are excellent, but as a first book, I'd recommend From My Mexican Kitchen. I actually prefer Bayless' books Authentic Mexican and Mexican Kitchen to Essential Cuisines only because of the illustrations and better intros to ingredients and techniques, I think. But From My Mexican Kitchen is as good as anything as an intro and covers ingredients better than any of the other quality Mexican cooking books, I think. It has great pictures and good step by step instructions with its recipes.

In the back of FMMK, there's a list of sources that includes several in New York that may be helpful, too.

I think there are two things every person should start with in Mexican food: salsas and tortillas. It's the bread and butter of Mexican food. Masa (the corn flour used for tortillas and tamales) is the staple, the wheat of Mexico. Salsa is the flavor. Get a tortilla press and learn to make tortillas from scratch. Then maybe experiment with other antojitos (little snacks, literally little whims) such as sopes, gorditas, or true quesadillas, and enchiladas. All the while work on salsas. I recommend getting an immersion blender for salsas. You have a lot more control than a cuisinart or blender and can make a smaller batch at a time.

So here's the recipe. Most people that taste it ask for the recipe, and I don't mind giving it out like that because those people have had it and know it's good and will prepare it like I tell them to. But I don't normally give it out like this because I have to threaten people within an inch of their lives to do it the way I say. Unless they've tasted it, and are willing to follow instructions to create the thing they've sampled, people (especially people that consider themselves to be good cooks) absolutely cannot RESIST trying to fiddle with it from the gitgo.

Jaymes, isn't this really a Mexican-American salsa? Truly a home recreation of commercial salsa, not really anything you'd ever find in Mexico? Seems more like something someone would make because they can't find chiles in the grocery store. Not that there's anything wrong with that, just being clear...

[Mabelline]

I cannot live without vinegars, cilantro, and tomatillos, too!

[Cynthia G]

Have you ever tried vinegar? Either and/or. It's a close call, but I think I prefer it.

I've tried several kinds of vinegar, but it doesn't have the same ... um ... freshness as the lime juice. It's just a bit brighter I think, and I especially like that contrast with the roasted chiles.

[rancho_gordo]

Have you ever tried vinegar? Either and/or. It's a close call, but I think I prefer it.

I prefer key limes to the persian limes and until recently, all the stores ever offered were the Persians. Now the Key Limes (or Mexican) are everywhere and a much better deal.

But with vinegars, I use a really nice, inexpensive pear vinegar, especially with my tomatillo salsas and it's really great. People try and guess that extra something.

[Msk]

ExtraMSG,

You are correct those are the two I have, FMMK and Essentials. I was at work and wasn't sure. I guess I got their timing messed up. I did purchase a press, and will eventually try to make tortillas sometime after it arrives.

Jaymes,

I made that salsa exactly as you described tonight. It was INCREDIBLE! Thanks so much for sharing. I put some cheddar cheese in flour tortillas and crisped the outside in a hot dry pan. Covered them in salsa and it was such a gratifying meal, simple and extremely tasty. My wife couldn't believe how good it all turned out.

It is one of the best effort/reward ratios I have ever made and I'm excited to have it for the coming summer. Thank you so much for sharing.

Thanks again to everyone for all the advice, its very helpful.

Msk

[ExtraMSG]

Jaymes, I was in the shower where I do my second best thinking and realized, duh, I guess that's essentially a salsa ranchera. It's just that that's been 99% of what's been available in jars in the US for the longest time (and I've never liked it as a table salsa). My bad.

[Cynthia G]

But with vinegars, I use a really nice, inexpensive pear vinegar

Ah! That's one I hadn't tried, Rancho. It goes on tomorrow's shopping list. Thanks!

[rancho_gordo]

I use Vilux brand Vinaigre a la Poire and at my local super (somewhat upscale but not "precious"), it's about $3.25 a bottle.

I decided to try after reading Kennedy's description of homemade pineapple vinegar. I knew there was no way I'd ever make it.

I have canned serranos and tomatillos from last season. With the bottled vinegar, it's a great emergency "pantry" salsa.

[Jaymes]

Jaymes, I was in the shower where I do my second best thinking and realized, duh, I guess that's essentially a salsa ranchera.  It's just that that's been 99% of what's been available in jars in the US for the longest time (and I've never liked it as a table salsa).  My bad.

This doesn't taste like what's available in the jars. And indeed you may not "like it as a table salsa," but I'd suggest you try it yourself before you decide.

And, Msk, thanks for: trying it, liking it, letting me know.

Gracias. Happy to help.

Edited February 27, 2004 by Jaymes (log)