Lyon - food shops and producers

[Aix]

I'll be in the region at the end of the month. In the next 12 months, we're planning to open a bakery and fine food shop, so I'm hoping to find inspiration in Lyon as well as make some good contacts with potential suppliers/producers in the area. (I should probably specify that I am going for pleasure more than for business!)

I would like to ask to those of you who have recentlybeen in the area if there are any épiceries that stand out in your mind as having interesting goods or concepts. Are there any producers you are aware of, interested in crossing the pond with their goods? Any inforamtion source, online or otherwise?

I have about 3 days to play with after I 'ditch' my friends. I'm thinking I might get more out of Lyon than Paris, considering I'll be without wheels, on my own and on a budget. Any other suggestion?

Finally, any hotel suggestions for Lyon would be greatly appreciated.

TIA.

[Bux]

You should wander Les Halles de Lyon. It's one of France's better markets and you'll find a host of merchants supply some of Lyon's best foods. In general Lyon has good bread and pastry bakeries, but it also has one of the finest producers of chocolate in France, if not in the world--Bernachon.

What is your hotel style and budget. In the center of town, where I enjoy staying, I'd recommend the Grand Hotel Concorde and then the Carlton personally. The Carlton may have been renovated recently and more expensive than I remember it, or perhaps they've upgraded the last of the inexpensive rooms. More economical choices might be the Globe et Cecil and the Beaux-Arts, although I've not stayed in either of them. There are other hotels that are even more economical. Other people prefer staying in Vieux-Lyon where there are some very elegant hotels in restored historic buildings.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Aix, we found that most of the best was represented at Les Halles, the huge, modern food market. Bernachon, one of France's finest chocolatiers, is a must visit. also visit Mano for bread, Tourtiller for cakes and pastry.

We stayed at Hotel des Artistes, a 3* a couple of blocks northwest of place Bellecour. It was adequate, but nothing special. We looked into Hotel Globe et Cecil, which had somewhat more style, was slightly closer to Bellecour and cost only 10 euro more than Artistes. France magazine recommended a wonderfully funky "al etage" hotel on the southern border of place Bellecour, Hotel Bayard. It's brochure shows wildly luxe and idiocyncratic bedrooms and makes claim to charming service.

Do get a "ticket liberte" for 4 euro which allows use of all public transportation for one day. Be forwarned that you will have to buy your ticket with coin.

We loved both food and service at Bouchon Daniel et Denise.

Les Halles 102 Course Lafayette closed Monday

Bernachon 42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt closed Monday

Mano 92 grand rue de la Guillotiere

Tourtilier 4 Cours Franklin Roosevelt

Hotel des Artistes

Hotel Globe et Cecil 21 rue Gasparin 04.78.42.58.95

Hotel Bayard 23 place Bellecour 04.78.37.39.64

Daniel et Denise 156 rue de Créqui

[marcus]

You should try Marie Richard's cheese stand in Les Halles, possibly the best cheese shop in the world, the St Marcellin is definitive.

[Mark Sommelier]

All the best restaurants seemingly have a cheese selection called "Mere Richard". For hotel, look at Coeur des Loges. I was totally charmed by this hotel. Ancient building, hip attitude. Look here: http://www.courdesloges.com/eng/main.html

Lyon is a very cool and beautiful city.

[Jon Tseng]

Yes, Mere Richard would be Renee (or Marie now?) Richard

as Marcus said

cheerio

J

[Bux]

Lyon is a very nice place with many distractions from its food, including some excellent museums that are manageably sized and a wonderful park. It's not only the expensive restaurants that feature the cheese of Mere Richard. I have had the local St. Marcellin offered at the end of the meal in restaurants across the board including some very inexpensive bistros and bouchons.

[menton1]

One of the bouchons never mentioned on the Lyon Bouchon lists is a place we stumbled upon while browsing at a pottery street fair last September. It is in Vieux Lyon, and is patronized by mostly locals, and is quite authentic. The Quennelles are outstanding.

LES LYONNAIS

1 RUE TRAMASSAC

69005 LYON

0478376482

As far as museums, Lyon has an outstanding museum of the Résistance; the movement started here, and this museum tracks the unsung heroes who fought in their own quiet way against the Nazis while risking everything. A don't miss museum if you are in Lyon!!

CENTRE DE LA RESISTANCE ET DE LA DEPORTATION 14, avenue Berthelot - Lyon 7e Tramway T2, arrêt Centre Berthelot Ouverture du mercredi au dimanche inclus, 9h à 17h30. tel. 04 78 72 23 11

[Aix]

Thank you for all the advice! Should the weather cooperate, I'll have lots to explore thanks to your splendid suggestions.

I understand that the market and many shops are closed on Mondays. Since I'll be there from Sunday to Tuesday, I hope I won't be wasting a day...

Cheers!

[marcus]

Yes, Mere Richard would be Renee

Renee is correct, not Marie.

[menton1]

I understand that the market and many shops are closed on Mondays. Since I'll be there from Sunday to Tuesday, I hope I won't be wasting a day...

About 95% of the restaurants in Lyon are closed on Sundays-- the bouchon that I mentioned above, Les Lyonnais, is happily open on Sundays. For some unknown reason, Lyon, a city of 350,000, "rolls up the streets" on Sunday nights and seems like a small village.

[Holly Moore]

There is a wonderful Sunday farmer's market that runs for four blocks, along the Rhone.

[Aix]

There is a wonderful Sunday farmer's market that runs for four blocks, along the Rhone.

That's perfect!

If I can't make it to Les Lyonnais (Thank you Menton), I can at least have a glutonnous picnic in my hotel room with a nice bottle of Côte du Rhône.

[Holly Moore]

Here are some pics from my site: Lyon Farmer's Market

[Bux]

There is a wonderful Sunday farmer's market that runs for four blocks, along the Rhone.

If I'm not mistaken the open market along quai on the Presqu'ile across from Vieux Lyon can be found every morning except Monday. I think it's the quai St. Antoine.

[Aix]

OMG.. An outdoor foie gras stand. It seems almost obscene... Methinks I will be very very happy there...

[Holly Moore]

There is a wonderful Sunday farmer's market that runs for four blocks, along the Rhone.

If I'm not mistaken the open market along quai on the Presqu'ile across from Vieux Lyon can be found every morning except Monday. I think it's the quai St. Antoine.

Very possibly the case. Much of what I learned was blurred in translation.

[Bux]

Holly, it's also possible that Sunday is the busiest day when the most farmers show up. It's often the case that even when markets operate all week in France, there's one day that's special and the market is three times the size on that day. Sunday would be a reasonable choice since that might be the day most shops are closed and therefore a better day for farmers to come to town.

Lots of foie gras is sold outdoors in France as there are many small artisanal producers who are best able to sell their entire production directly at farmer's markets. In the southwest where most of the ducks are raised, there's hardly a market around where you don't see jars of farmhouse foie gras for sale. Lyon is a particularly good city for dried sausages of all kinds. I remember the butcher shops in Les Halles de Lyon displaying all manner of pork and game dried sausages. Tripe seems to be the local dish, by the way. Lyon is a good place to order tripe in one of several ways.