Four Months in France

[Schneier]

I need a favor. I need someone to help me rent a gite in the Loire from mid July through mid October. I can find a lot of gite sites on the web, but I'm having trouble with both the language and the cultural barrier.

Is there some local (in France) who can make a few phone calls for me.

I'd gladly buy them dinner when I get there.

Please.

Bruce

[oenomania]

Have you tried working with a professional travel agent in the US who might actually take some responsibility for the recommendations and the answers to the questions you have? I would be worried about snake-oil if I were you. And I think it would be a good idea to really pin down how you see yourself spending your days.

Four months is a long time to spend somewhere if you are unsure about whether you will be happy there and you might end up in a damp converted barn; personally I would recommend you set up base camp in Paris and then maybe spend a few long weekends away in the Loire, in Burgundy, in the Languedoc, or the alps, or Alsace, or Normandy, or Montpellier, or Bordeaux... Then next time you can make a better informed choice about more remote areas you might like to live.

[menton1]

I need a favor.  I need someone to help me rent a gite in the Loire from mid July through mid October.  I can find a lot of gite sites on the web, but I'm having trouble with both the language and the cultural barrier.

Is there some local (in France) who can make a few phone calls for me.

I'd gladly buy them dinner when I get there.

Please.

Bruce

Wow, you have picked an area really off the tourist track.... The Loire is just about 50km west of Lyon, so you can make some trips into the city there as well. I have also heard that St Etienne has two great markets....

Have you tried working with a professional travel agent in the US who might actually take some responsibility for the recommendations and the answers to the questions you have?

As far as travel agents (Bux bear me out) I believe that this type of rental is not particularly their bailiwick-- in Europe what you are looking for is a "Self-Catering" or Gite, and you will probably be better served, (without buying dinner) by a local realtor, or "Immobilier". You can find them in the Pages Jaunes, or the local OT, or also on expatica.com; you should also be able to find one that speaks English...

Coincidentally, the Jan 04 issue of France Magazine has an article about the Upper Loire and the Loire department; here is a small excerpt: Loire Excerpt

Bon chance!

Edited January 16, 2004 by menton1 (log)

[Bux]

As far as travel agents (Bux bear me out) I believe that this type of rental is not particularly their bailiwick--  in Europe what you are looking for is a "Self-Catering" or Gite, and you will probably be better served, (without buying dinner) by a local realtor, or "Immobilier".  You can find them in the Pages Jaunes, or the local OT, or also on expatica.com;  you should also be able to find one that speaks English...

On the whole it's not for several reasons. Most gites are not likely to pay a commission and there's no profit motive for a travel agent. Assuming that either the traveler is paying a fee or that there's a commission from the airfare bringing in enough revenue, and the agent wants to do the client a favor, the time involved in finding one could be prohibitive, but the biggest reason is that most rentals end up being a pig in a poke and the chance of an unhappy client is too great a risk. Gites are also likely to be more spartan than other rentals.

In rare situations, an agent might have some local contacts, either friends or professional contacts that could provide a reasonable guaranty, but for the most part, the only way an agent would feel able to provide a professional service, is by going through a trusted rental agency. These agencies will have inspected every property they represent and can be trusted to deliver what they promise because they depend on repeat business from travel agencies. The problems here are financial. Keeping up with inspections and advertising, all adds to the price of the rental because these costs have to be recouped and they have to make a profit. The additional cost to the client is a lot like buying insurance. The other point I'd make is that the least expensive places are probably not worth the time and trouble of such a rental agency because their fee would be out of proportion to the rental. If you're looking for a large villa overlooking the Mediterranean, a travel agent will have an easier time finding a rental because this is an international market.

Dealing directly with a local rental agent, or better yet directly with an owner, is bound to bring a better price. The problem is that, as already noted in the thread, most rental properties are not all that well equiped or furnished and the prospect of spending a few months in the wrong one doesn't make for an ideal situation.

[Schneier]

I think we're close to a decision...a house in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire: mid-July through mid-October.

Bruce

[menton1]

I think we're close to a decision...a house in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire: mid-July through mid-October.

Bruce

OK-- but that's not the Loire; that's the Indre-et-Loire.... The Loire is about 300 more miles upstream towards Lyon.

Azay is my favorite of the "chateaux" on the tourist track. A little jewel, don't miss the great staircase that is so unique.

While I would have opted for the Southwest for an extended stay personally, there is really no part of France that is unappealing. This "Centre" Region is fairly flat, undulating, farmland and fields. It is quiet and pleasant, unless you go to the hotspots, like Chenonceaux or Chambord. Tours is the prefecture and is a large city of 90,000 with many events. And from the Tours station, (St Pierre des Corps) Paris is only 55 minutes away by TGV.

We have friends in this area who live near Loches, and have stayed with them so I know the area well. There are a couple of very good restaurants, but mostly the area proliferates with decent, moderate restaurants. While there is no particular distinguishing cuisine of this area, do not miss the Vouvray wine-- that is a treat.

[dlc]

I think we're close to a decision...a house in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire: mid-July through mid-October.

Bruce

What a real flashback. We rented a house about 3 miles up the road in Savonniere about 3 years ago. You will love the area. The chateau at Azay is great esp the kitchen garden which should be in high bloom while you are there. There are a ton of great wines from that area both red and whites. The folks in the small shops were very accomodating to us and helped us with our shopping as well as helping us improve our french. Bon Chance

[artisanbaker]

"We want to live in a wine region. Cuisine is important.

Although honestly, these two criteria don't narrow it down very much.

We want a town large enough to have an Internet cafe but not one that is overrun with tourists. We want to live in town, walking distance to markets and restaurants. We want a countryside that is flat enough for easy bicycling. We want interesting things in easy driving distance (although that doesn't narrow it down very much, either)."

i would recommend Colmar if you are still open to suggestions. wine, cuisine, biking, patrimony, ease of access to other gastronomy capitols of france, ie beaune/bresse/lyon/alpes. small town size with good markets.

[Bux]

I think we're close to a decision...a house in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire: mid-July through mid-October.

Bruce

OK-- but that's not the Loire; that's the Indre-et-Loire.... The Loire is about 300 more miles upstream towards Lyon.

The Loire départment is far from Azay-le-Rideau, but the entire river is the Loire and many people refer to the Loire Valley, or more specifically both sides of the river from Orléans to Angers or even Nantes. as "the Loire."

There should be a market on Wednesday mornings in Azay-le-Rideau. Tours is 28 k away with larger markets, especially on the weekends. You should run into the garlic fair in Tours late in July and maybe you'll still be there for the apple fair in Azay-le-Rideau in late October. You run across other produce, wine and harvest fairs while you're there. You're a ways west of the Solonge, but you should have some selection of game by early October.

We had two great meals in the Loire Valley in October of 2002. Unless one absolutely needs the creativity of a Gagnaire or Adria, I really can't recommend better places to dine than le Lion d'Or in Romorantin and Domaine des Hauts de Loire near Onzain. In fact, in a year that saw us at both Gagniare and El Bulli, meals at both of these two star inns were standouts in terms of pure satisfaction and enjoyment. They're hardly bicycle rides from Azay-le-Rideau unfortunately and may even suggest on overnight. The Domaine des Hauts de Loire has magnificent grounds, but both offer great comfort.

I have another recommendation that's about the same distance in the other direction and I have to say it's a long shot as I've never been there. Many years ago, I read about a little restaurant--Les Tonnelles in Behuard--on an island in the Loire near Angers. Actually it's right between Savennières on the north and Coteaux du Layon on the south and was supposed to have a great cellar of sweet white wines from the area. It stuck in my mind and once when we were driving south from Brittany to the Languedoc, I managed to time it so were nearby at lunch time on a Sunday. Unfortunately, I neglected to reserve, the place was packed with locals who had just left church--we heard the bells as drove on to the island. I've always felt this was the find that got away. I've mentioned it to others from time to time, but never gotten back a report. As I said, it's a long shot, but if you're planning on being near Angers at lunchtime, you might consider it, especially if you're a fan of Quarts de Chaume, Bonnieux, etc.

The biggest drawback to the area will probably be tourism, especially in August. Even in late October, I was surprised at the busloads of tourists at Chenonceaux, but after early September the crowds should thin out at most of sites. I'd enjoy the countryside away from the famous sites during the summer.

We'll be looking for regular reports.

[menton1]

The Loire départment is far from Azay-le-Rideau, but the entire river is the Loire and many people refer to the Loire Valley, or more specifically both sides of the river from Orléans to Angers or even Nantes. as "the Loire."

Well, not the French. The Loire river is 700 miles long, that touristed area is sometimes called "Loire Valley" or Chateaux Country, but the " Loire" means the area near the source of the river a little west of Lyon. We'll check with Bruce for his opinion after 4 months there!

Probably the best dining spot in the area is the Domaine de Beauvois, about 15km down the road from Azay, in a little village called Luynes. A gorgeous room to eat in, with the best food in the area. Tours will have some good restos as well, but parking is a problem.

For atmosphere, the towns of Montrichard, Bléré, and Chinon are great-- and don't miss the Chinon Castle, not a "Chateau" but an historic ruin where Jeanne d'Arc paid a legendary visit.

Nice to think of these places in the drab winter weather!!

[Freckles]

I was just in Azay-le-Rideau last weekend. It's lovely there, and our charming, Paris-based hosts had bought their country house there because it's less than an hour by TGV from The Big Smoke. You are surrounded by countless castles and vinyards and I have been told by several teachers that the French spoken in that region is the most clear and pleasant-sounding. (I still can't really tell the difference) Sounds like an ideal compromise to me. Good luck, Bruce and Mrs.!

[naguere]

I think we're close to a decision...a house in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire: mid-July through mid-October.

Bruce

OK-- but that's not the Loire; that's the Indre-et-Loire.... The Loire is about 300 more miles upstream towards Lyon.

Azay is my favorite of the "chateaux" on the tourist track. A little jewel, don't miss the great staircase that is so unique.

While I would have opted for the Southwest for an extended stay personally, there is really no part of France that is unappealing. This "Centre" Region is fairly flat, undulating, farmland and fields. It is quiet and pleasant, unless you go to the hotspots, like Chenonceaux or Chambord. Tours is the prefecture and is a large city of 90,000 with many events. And from the Tours station, (St Pierre des Corps) Paris is only 55 minutes away by TGV.

We have friends in this area who live near Loches, and have stayed with them so I know the area well. There are a couple of very good restaurants, but mostly the area proliferates with decent, moderate restaurants. While there is no particular distinguishing cuisine of this area, do not miss the Vouvray wine-- that is a treat.

Azey-Le-Rideau

Is about 7Km from La Loire, and just a bike ride from there to Tours , but it is on the river Indre.

Edited May 18, 2004 by naguere (log)

[winemike]

I have been told by several teachers that the French spoken in that region is the most clear and pleasant-sounding

... they say that in many regions of France !!! Especially when you go south ....

It is supposed to be a region of France where people do not have any accent, a kind of "perfect" French, from the pronounciation point of view.

Though the main attraction is that it is one of the underrated wine region of France (Vallee de la Loire) .. and the castles are great ... clearly worth a visit.

[cigalechanta]

There are many unspioled villages in Provence. The Dordogne tends to be damp and alot of rain, and the Provencal diet, IMO, is healthier.

Check out "France today" and the British "France" to find rentals.

[menton1]

There are many unspioled villages in Provence. The Dordogne tends to be damp and alot of rain, and the Provencal diet, IMO, is healthier.

Check out "France today" and the British "France" to find rentals.

I respectfully disagree with this; I have been to the Dordogne on 3 vacations and have rarely experienced a day of rain.... (June and September) I would also say that the Dordogne is far less touristed than Provence and has many more unspoiled villages than Provence. But I love both areas, for different reasons.

[naguere]

I have been told by several teachers that the French spoken in that region is the most clear and pleasant-sounding

... they say that in many regions of France !!! Especially when you go south ....

It is supposed to be a region of France where people do not have any accent, a kind of "perfect" French, from the pronounciation point of view.

Though the main attraction is that it is one of the underrated wine region of France (Vallee de la Loire) .. and the castles are great ... clearly worth a visit.

Perfect accent: Tours

[Schneier]

We're here, in Azay-le-Rideau.

I will be making detailed posts soonest.

Bruce

[grace3]

You say 4 months in the fall...what 4 months were you thinking of??

In Provence you will run into the mistral winds...which are not nice....unless you go way east..Cote d'Azur area.

There certainly is nothing wrong with spending 4 months in Paris..in fact, it would be wonderful!!

You will find many of the rental places will offer special rates for longer term rentals......Paris Perfect is great....vrbo.com...paris-sleeps..on and on..

I have rented a beautiful apartment in Villefranche-sur-mer in October..I often travel to France in the early fall..a beautiful time, without the heavy tourist traffic. I have spent Christmas in Paris.

Enjoy,

Joan

[Carlsbad]

grace3, I just spend a few days in Villefranche, and loved it. Can you tell us how you arranged the apartment? Thanks.

[grace3]

Re: Villefranche-sur-Mer....I found it on the Holiday-Rentals site... www.holiday-rentals.com Property # 8595. I also have their personal website if you would like it. My email address is grace3@webtv.net. It is a beautiful spot.

I would enjoy hearing about any restaurants etc. that you found while there.

Joan

[John Talbott]

Let me return to the idea proposed by Pan and winemike; using Paris as a base. Both full years we've been in France we've used Paris as a base and taken weekends (which my wife Colette cleverly decided would exist for us Tuesday-Friday, making hotels/chambres d'hote/gites more easy to book without calling ahead) away. Granted we had a car (shipping mine cost a bit over $500 each way, which for 4 months is not economical but for a year is) and an apartment in Paris so that made things easier. But even renting or leasing works (always cheaper from stateside or via the internet). The point is, we've been able to go everywhere, stay a few days, sometimes more, and be "back home" in a few hours. We've used the car train from Bercy to Nice as well as driven it and as long as you're not leaving or returning on a Bison Futé/Code Red clogged autoroute Friday or Sunday night, it's not bad. When not in full-time residence we've been TGV'ng to a city zippity-zip, renting a very reasonably priced Avis via SCNF, and returning the car and TGV'ng back. More expensive but less hassle. As Bux says, however, it's all in what you want; to be on the move, to plotz or a bit of both.

[Schneier]

I'm already here. In the Loire. Near Tours. In Azay-le-Rideau. It's pretty perfect, down to the idyllic scenery and the wireless broadband Internet connection.

Bruce

[Underhill]

I would head to northern Provence and settle in the olive town of Nyons, which has a wonderful open-air market and an excellent olive-oil cooperative. The country is beautiful, the people are nice, and it's the area where Patricia Wells lives when not in Paris. There's much to explore in the immediate vicinity and up in the Drôme, and once on the Autoroute du Soleil all of Provence is at your feet.