Day of the Dead

[ExtraMSG]

http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/pls/impreso/...tabla=articulos

Anyone else celebrate Day of the Dead this year? I was in Mazatlan, known for its Carnaval, but not Day of the Dead. However, it was very enjoyable nonetheless. I have lots of pictures and some time I'll post some links here along with a report on my trip. My wife and I were some of the few gringos who went to the old town and joined in the festivities following a band from Day of the Dead display after display, dancing through the streets. There wasn't much festival food to be had, though, unfortunately.

Anyone ever celebrate it in Oaxaca? Understandably, I've heard the celebration is best there.

[Chris Cognac]

http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/pls/impreso/...tabla=articulos

Anyone else celebrate Day of the Dead this year? I was in Mazatlan, known for its Carnaval, but not Day of the Dead. However, it was very enjoyable nonetheless. I have lots of pictures and some time I'll post some links here along with a report on my trip. My wife and I were some of the few gringos who went to the old town and joined in the festivities following a band from Day of the Dead display after display, dancing through the streets. There wasn't much festival food to be had, though, unfortunately.

Anyone ever celebrate it in Oaxaca? Understandably, I've heard the celebration is best there.

I was in Puerto Vallarta the day after...We checked out some of the cemetary grounds and got a few cool shots...I will post some if you would like....I would love to spend that time down there one day!

[Mayhaw Man]

I would like to suggest, with all seriousness, that there is an opportunity for an egullet adventure here. I have never been for the holiday (although I have been to Oaxaca) but our old housemate (it's a New Orleans thing, next door neighbor in a camelback double) goes everyyear and has got the drill down pretty well. It is not an expensive trip and is very easy to put together.

Something to think about.

[Chris Cognac]

I would like to suggest, with all seriousness, that there is an opportunity for an egullet adventure here. I have never been for the holiday (although I have been to Oaxaca) but our old housemate (it's a New Orleans thing, next door neighbor in a camelback double) goes everyyear and has got the drill down pretty well. It is not an expensive trip and is very easy to put together.

Something to think about.

That would be pretty cool, I think the airfare would be the big cost factor. I would love to go native during the trip...My wife speaks spanish and loves to do that stuff....I guess I better go check on airfare!

[ExtraMSG]

From Portland, Oaxaca is usually about $700, while Mexico City is $400 RT. To me, it's worth flying in to DF and then taking a bus to Oaxaca. I imagine it's a decently cool trip through the mountains.

Coming up, though, would is the opportunity to go to Veracruz for Carnaval. Supposedly there and Mazatlan have the best Mardi Gras festivities. You could fly into Mexico City, drive to Puebla, and then to Veracruz. That'd be an awesome adventure.

[Mayhaw Man]

I like riding the bus in MX. Especially those motorcoaches. Comfortable and you meet a hell of a lot of nice people that way.

[fifi]

You guys need to talk to theabroma if you are serious about a trip.

[Mayhaw Man]

You guys need to talk to theobroma if you are serious about a trip.

Why, has she ever been to Mexico?

[fifi]

Too funny, Brooks.

(Yikes! I just realized that I misspelled theabroma!)

To anyone that has not followed her wonderful journey, it is here.

I think, basis my conversations with Richard, that she might be ammenable to arranging trips. That would be really fun.

[guajolote]

one of the most famous dia de los muertos festivals is on the island of Janitzio in lake patzcuaro.

we were in oaxaca one year for day of the dead and it seemed there were mostly family celebrations, not public festivals.

i usually try to make some pan muertos for day of the dead, these are anise flavored loaves shaped to look like a skull.

[dls]

we were in oaxaca one year for day of the dead and it seemed there were mostly family celebrations, not public festivals.

My experience a few years ago was just the opposite. By coincidence, I wass in Oaxaca during the Day Of The Dead period. From about 10/28-11/02, it was a continuous series of public festivals in, in addition to the private celebrations, both the town and surronding area. Also, at least in the area where my hotel was located, the doors to the private homes were open and it was common to go from house to house and celebrate with the families even as a total stranger.

Link below for a pretty good description (not mine) of the activities

http://www.lavida-oaxaca.com/Day_of_Dead/DayDead_text.htm

[guajolote]

we were in oaxaca one year for day of the dead and it seemed there were mostly family celebrations, not public festivals.

My experience a few years ago was just the opposite. By coincidence, I wass in Oaxaca during the Day Of The Dead period. From about 10/28-11/02, it was a continuous series of public festivals in, in addition to the private celebrations, both the town and surronding area. Also, at least in the area where my hotel was located, the doors to the private homes were open and it was common to go from house to house and celebrate with the families even as a total stranger.

Link below for a pretty good description (not mine) of the activities

http://www.lavida-oaxaca.com/Day_of_Dead/DayDead_text.htm

i should have travelled with you .

thanks for the great link.

[dls]

we were in oaxaca one year for day of the dead and it seemed there were mostly family celebrations, not public festivals.

My experience a few years ago was just the opposite. By coincidence, I wass in Oaxaca during the Day Of The Dead period. From about 10/28-11/02, it was a continuous series of public festivals in, in addition to the private celebrations, both the town and surronding area. Also, at least in the area where my hotel was located, the doors to the private homes were open and it was common to go from house to house and celebrate with the families even as a total stranger.

Link below for a pretty good description (not mine) of the activities

http://www.lavida-oaxaca.com/Day_of_Dead/DayDead_text.htm

i should have travelled with you .

thanks for the great link.

Additional link, for those so inclined, gives an idea of some of the packages available during the period

http://www.dia-de-los-muertos.com/packages.htm

Also, out of curiosity, I checked air for the period 10/27-11/03. ORD to OAX (via MEX) is around $700.

[theabroma]

Ayone else celebrate Day of the Dead this year? I was in Mazatlan, known for its Carnaval, but not Day of the Dead.

Anyone ever celebrate it in Oaxaca? Understandably, I've heard the celebration is best there.

I was in Puebla, and in several tiny pueblos around Tlaxcala, plus I lucked out and was invited to attend an ofrends (altar) building workshop in Tlaxcala at the house of Yolanda Ramos Galicia, an anthropologist with INAH who studies some Nahuatl and Otomi villages in the area. I ducked out of going to the town of Huaquechula, Puebla, with the IACP group - it seemed a bit over done, and, subsequently it was mentioned in that vein by writers for La Jornada, a Mx City daily.

We built an altar at a friend's home ... made tamales, mole, and calabaza en tacha (chilacayote squash candied in unrefined sugar syrup), and some panecitos de muerto. Her grandfather liked brandy and cigars, which we drank and smoked on the afternoon of Nov. 2, after the spirits had left.

But the most beautiful sights were to be had in the graveyards and churchyards throughout the rural areas of the country: candles, food, flowers - the orange cempoalxochitl (marigold), cock'scombs, and a white flower like big baby's breath. So many people, families, gathered in the yards, cleaning graves and turning fresh earth over them, placing special treats for the departed. It is a tradition that the graves of those who have no one caring for them become the joint project of all families in the yard, each contributing some flowers, candles, and food. Late into the incredible inky darkness of a rural Mexican night, these campos santos have a deeply stirring, unearthly beauty.

I was fortunate to have been invited to some homes for a drink or a bite of food, and every one I entered had an altar thickly decorated once again with food, candles, flowers, photos, and mementos of the departed. The most sweetly elegant touch is the wide swath of marigold petals which lead from the street into the home and up to the altar ... they are strewn there to lead the spirits back to their homes.

Oaxaca still has some wonderful celebrations - but it's best to go way out inot the boondocks to observe them. It has been so visited, photographed, and invaded, tthat it is almost like a spring break in Ft. Lauderdale ritual, and it can be, sadly, very commercialized.

I have never been to Patzcuaro and Janitzio, but I have seen photos and heard stories. It is still quite traditional and exquisite there, and the Purepecha traditions are a bit different.

Although I left Veracruz before the observance began, I did see some ofrendas in the north around Papantla in the Totonac region. They are distinguished, in part, by being suspended from the house's rafters rather than being set on the floor. Also, in some regions there it is believed that the spirits come until Nov. 30, so they have a full month before returning to their spirit home.

It is a wonderful tradition, but alas, in the cities it is being crossbred with a lot of the tackier, more commercial aspects of Hallowe'en.

I am, of course, highly susceptible to getting myself to Mexico during Muertos, and can be easily convinced ... Fifi called me out on that one!

Theabroma

[theabroma]

I imagine it's a decently cool trip through the mountains.

Coming up, though, would is the opportunity to go to Veracruz for Carnaval. Supposedly there and Mazatlan have the best Mardi Gras festivities. You could fly into Mexico City, drive to Puebla, and then to Veracruz. That'd be an awesome adventure.

Puebla is 1.5 hours by bus out of the Mx City Airport. I think that you can also get a Oax bus there. Oax is about 4-5 hours out of Puebla on the highway ... scenery is nice, but the truly scenic route takes way too long for a quick trip!

The Puebla-Veracruz drive is about 5-6 hours (to Veracruz, Ver.). If you can get the bus to stop in Perote, on the route, you can snag some of the jamon serrano they make there. It's cheap and it's very, very good.

There is also a flight out of either Houston or Corpus Christi direct to Veracruz, Ver., that would be worth considering if you wanted to cut some time and bypass Mx City.

Theabroma