Jump to content


eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by theabroma

  1. Having lived in Central Texas for years and having eaten at the Big 3 in Lockhart frequently - Smitty's, Kreuz, and Black's - I just cannot get terribly excited about Lockhart in Davis St in Oak Cliff. It is good, but not fabulous. Pecan Lodge, on the other hand, is killer. I am also a fan of Smoke, also in Oak Cliff.
  2. If you are thinking of deconstructing a tarte au citron, then you would not want to add meringue ... that would be appropriate for a decon of a lemon meringue pie. The cream quenelle is not a direct component of tarte au citron, but it could be argued to be appropriate. The shortbread or sablé cookie or crumble fits, too. Perhaps a candied lemon slice or even candied lemon peel would be an appropriate addition here? Also, you could play around with Maghrebi salt-preserved lemon peel to add a lemon note with an unexpected twist? The saltiness and texture of the peel would fit and contrast nicely at the same time. And perhaps if they are available lemon flowers, brushed with egg white and rolled in sugar, à la candied violets??
  3. Cacahuate, don't know what your hotel budget might be; however I would recommend the Hotel Majestic on Calle Madero right on the Plaza Mayor. It is directly across from the Palacio Nacional, just south of the Metropolitan Cathedral, and catty-cornered from the Templo Mayor and it is very close to Mercado Merced. The Fundacion Herdez is there, the Museo del Templo Mayor, lots of restaurants, Churreria El Moro is close, etc. The concierges at the Majestic can get you guides - not culinary guides - if you want. It can be a noisy spot if there are demonstrations or protests going on, and too early in the am the army comes out with bugles to play the anthem and raise that huge flag in the center of the Plaza. Last I checked, doubles were +/- $60-$70/night. It also has a great rooftop with restaurant, but beware: they charge you for each cup of coffee!
  4. Think about this a moment: cold caramel? only with titanium jaw implants.
  5. Souffleed omelette? Curds? Bombes? French buttercreams? Huevos Reales? Does it have to be from the sweet kitchen? If no, oeufs en gelee? Omelettes? Brouillard? Fettuccini alla carbonara? Homage to the Southern picnic: devilled eggs? Or that fine, fine lily-gilding of Persian chelo: ultra long grain rice (dom siah or ambar du) with crusty, crunchy tah dig, and crowned with butter, sumaq, and raw egg yolk? Sorry, would propose more things, but I'm off to find my own fresh eggs! Theabroma
  6. To me they are one of those "vanilla ice-cream" sorts of desserts/pastries: very few ingredients which must be of excellent quality, preferably all freshly made in-house, where there is really nowhere to hide the flaws under "cutting-edge" flavors and treatments. Shatteringly crisp choux, vanilla ice cream that has a softness to it - not "gently" thawed prior to scooping, and an unctuous, yet still fluid chocolate sauce. To be at their best in a restaurant - and likely at home as well - they should, practically, if not literally, be prepared tableside for instant service. Otherwise, the choux are soggy instead of crisp, the ice cream is soft to liquifying on the outside and hard on the inside, and the chocolate sauce appears to have been transformed into Bosco. It is a dessert that should definitely be prepared a la minute, and should only be undertaken by restaurants that understand the high-maintenance nature of this delection, and are willing to commit resources to its proper execution and timely delivery to the client. Otherwise, they should stick to bread puddings ...
  7. If you have access to DVD's of Jacques Torres' "Passion for Chocolate" series, you'll find that he periodically makes use of small binder clips from the office supply to hold things together. Also, he is the undisputed King of the Hardware Store, having multiple uses for all sorts of construction materials - from plasterer's lath to galvanized metal ducts. So, likely he would get a section of appropriately sized PVC pipe, roll the chocolate covered acetate, and insert it into the pipe section until it has cooled. Withdraw the acetate, et voila. You can also use the cardboard tube cores of paper towels, toilet paper, rolls of gift wrap, or butcher or architectural blueline paper. Watching those programs will truly unleash your most creative self: you havent lived until you see him make cornstarch or gelatin molds for achocolate champagne bottle, or design and order up a silk screen or a Moet et Chandon label, to silkscreen it in chocolate onto a thin sheet of marzipan. Regards, Theabroma
  8. Tomate de milpa is how that variety of tomate de cascara, tomatillo, or tomate verde is also referred to. They were traditionally grown as part of the cornfield symphony, together with beans and squashes. Regards, Theabroma
  9. Gorgeous cake, that! With the curd fillings, have you considered piping a thick ring of mousseline buttercream, etc. around the edge of each layer as a dam? Also, you could then put a crumb coat of the curd all over the cake and then drape it with ultra-thin marzipan - which can be tinted, airbrushed, crimped, etc. to your heart's delight. It is far tastier than rolled fondant, creates the same porcelain-like finish, and will armor the cake against the elements. I would suggest, though, that the cake be given one heck of a deep refrigeration prior to putting it out. Regards, Theabroma
  10. You may want to 86 the onions, pick only the LEAVES of the cilantro, and use grated cotija cheese. I am not at all sure about the lime juice, however. I would strip it down to the basics: cilantro (the basil), garlic (ditto), lightly toasted pepitas, and a Spanish olive oil ... or pumpkinseed or avocado oil. Finish it off with finely grated queso cotija (the parm). This is how I make it and have never had problems with bitterness. Curious. I never use citrus in either my basil or cilantro pesto, so I am not sure what the limes are doing there ... lovely as they are, they might be causing a reaction with the parm that causes the bitterness. Quizzically, Theabroma
  11. theabroma


    It's botannical name is Ustilago maydis. As far as I know it is the only fungus that affects corn in this fashion, so it is edible. It was known as 'Raven's Shit' to some North American tribes. The name 'huitlacoche' or 'cuitlacoche' is the most common name in Mexico. It is from Nahuatl, the most spoken of the many indigenous languages there. And it's translation means something along the lines of 'Sleeping Excrement of the Lords.' If you can find naturally occurring cuitlacoche on field corn, you are way in luck. A lot of the cuitlacoche that is now grown here arises from the corn being innoculated with the fungus. This is not a problem per se; however they innoculate sweet corn, rather than field corn, and I, at least, find that the resulting product has an unexpected and unpleasant sweet taste to it. We do grow field corn in the US, but it is destined for stock feed. Field corn, which has bigger, starchy kernels, is not sweet. It is, somewhat like portobello mushrooms, meaty in its denseness. Regards, Theabroma
  12. One of the more entertaining delights of life is to watch the face of a Veracruzano, especially one from around Alvarado, as it is explained to them that people on the west coast batter and fry the fish for the fish tacos. They think that strictly comida de Gringolandia invading Mexico. Never a dull, boring, or less than tasty moment! Regards, Theabroma
  13. Warming it gently will work to soften it a bit through making the oils more liquid. Friction is another option: put it in the mixer and 'cream' it. You may in the end need to press it through a tamis in order to remove the intransigent particles. Depending on the quantity, have you considered making a luxe stueusel, adding it to brioche crumbs and oats, etc. to top a special cobbler or coffee cake? Regards, Theabroma
  14. Perhaps ... unless you're using professional books. However, this does not apply to Beranbaum ... it would take the energy of 3 lifetimes to research measurements like she did. And if you want a detailed explication of why you should measure ... Beranbaum again. But there are people who prefer measurement by eyeball or heft (grandma-trained) or by volume, so unless you are baking for production, it really is your choice. But like any other choice about things of the table or in life, the more knowledge you have about the how's, why's, etc. will lead you to a better choice, and help avert dire consequences. Hell ... I started out a long time ago with the dip and tap method!
  15. Food processor works for me ... as does two good cleavers working side-by-side. It's good to freeze the cubes. One-inch is a good size. And pulse them in small batches. You want the pieces to be of similar size so that the air drying (if you are going to do that) will be uniformly effective. That said, pick a "size" theme and have some variation within that to give texture to the finished sausage. You might also want to check out Diana Kennedy's recipe for chorizo in The Art of Mexican Cooking. I like to get cross-inspiration going between her and Bayless. You can't go wrong on that one. Regards, Theabroma
  16. Interesting problem ... I remember the day that I realized why sometimes my bread dough was very soft and other times it was very slack ... using the "same" measuring cups. Weighing is best, and idea that you convert the recipes that you use most frequently to weight measures is an excellent one. There are now many reliable digital scales - and if you want to bust the piggy, an Edlund is really wonderful - so once done, it is a breeze to mix and measure, even in advance. Next, if you have the patience, scan the book from which the recips came and see if they thought to provide info like egg size (large, extra large, etc.)and dry ingredient measurement techniques used in their pastry and bread recipes. ***Please note: even if this is mentioned, this DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE RECIPES WERE ACTUALLY TESTED. Cookbooks are notoriously long on marketing budgets and short on testing ... with frequently predictably disastrous results. If there is not a clue given (and likely there won't be), I would ask you to consider the dimensions and size of the container of flour and the size of the dipping measure as well as the type of product you are making before you choose a technique. When I am not measuring from a container that provides a lot of surface area and depth into which I might dip and sweep, then I use the scoop and sweep. Rooting around in the standard 5-lb bag of flour will provide some serious trash compactor action on a dip and sweep - I would either put the flour in a large bowl that gives me maneuver room, or I would scoop and sweep in this situation. Also, if you are making something that must be light, such as a sponge cake, or really anything leavened with air - whipped whites, creamed butter-sugar-eggs, or a genoise custard - I would used the fluff, scoop, and sweep (actually, I would convert and weigh, but I am trying desperately not to go there!). If it is a cookie or bar dough that does not require such a light hand, then dip and sweep is fine. I say that because I have repeatedly measured my D/S and S/S, and find that my D/S's consistently weigh a bit more. A fourth alternative is to peruse Rose Levy-Beranbaum's Bible series for Cakes, Breads, and Pies. If you find a recipe you can use in place of the one at hand, use hers. She is exacting to the point of torture in her measurements, and she gives them in pounds, metric, and American volume. That has helped when all else failed (i.e.: didn't have Ed the Edlund or a calculator to facilitate conversions - or the patience to do it with pencil & paper.) Good luck, Theabroma
  17. Before there were meat grinders .... You might want to consider very roughly chopping the meat. As for poultry, it is best to use thighs as they are fattier and more durable, less prone to drying out and losing flavor. I don't know what to suggest about the fat, however. As much as I love schmaltz, it might just be too liquidy, and raw, chopped poultry fat may well be frightening. Alternatively, I know that there are lamb sausages made in several countries, for example Morocco's beautiful merguez. Though I have never seen lamb chorizo in Mexico, I am thinking that roughly chopped lamb, together with chopped lamb fat might give a far closer textural approximation of Mexican chorizo that would poultry. It is meaty, and as we all know from curries, especially vindaloos, it can stand up against the vinegar and the spicing and keep its flavor. Lamb shoulder or perhaps leg with a careful eye to enough fat to keep it moist would be my choices of cuts. Regards, Theabroma
  18. Working with limones rellenos de cocada, jamoncillos, camotes, a nd tortitas de Sta Clara ... I am to the point that I can not only smell sugar, I can smell the type ... that's scary
  19. The chocolate de metate is the traditional version of Ibarra, Abuelita, Mayordomo (if you can find it here, etc). The different brands have varying amounts of sugar, cinnamon, and sometimes almonds or even coffee ground up in them. If you are lucky enough to be in a market region in Mexico where they have molinos and grind chocolate, you can customize your mix ... and control the sugar content. That said, Mexican chocolate de mesa is made from toasted, hulled,and ground cacao beans. Of course it won't work for ganache: it is not conched, plus it has actual ground things in it (cinnamon, etc)rather than infusions of those flavors. It can be crumbled and used in cakes, tea breads, cookies, etc. You probably should reduce the sugar a bit when you use it. Any recipe that requires European couverture chocolate for its execution will not deliver the expected results if you use chocolate de mesa. Rather, use it for the chocolate in a génoise, then infuse the glazing or filling ganache with cinnamon, etc. and fill or pour it over the cake. This chocolate is really designed for use in hot chocolate made with water (traditional) or milk. You really need a wooden molinillo with the loose rings around its head and lower shaft to raise the foam properly. It requires a LOT of rapid twirling between the palms. The foam is considered to be the "soul" or "spirit" of the cacao, and as such, sacred. Foamy chocolate is a big deal in rural areas. Also, it is the classic chocolate for mole, and I have even used it in making hasenpfeffer, and to great success. Have fun with it!!! Regards, Theabroma
  20. I am a bit confused by the large amount of yolks/meringue, which should be sufficient to lift this batter, combined with a rather healthy dose of chemical leavener. Have you tried using one method of lift at a time? Perhaps deleting the bp would do the trick? Further to the cake for tres leches: in Mexico the traditional one is a marquesote, which is a sponge cake leavened by whipped egg whites and not baking powder. Rick Bayless' recipe for a tres leches uses - and credits the use of - génoise from Rose Levy Beranbaum's Cake Bible. He adds finely ground almonds to his. I love génoise for the texture, absorption capacity, and sturdiness in the presence of all of that good dairy lurking inside. You might want to consider another formula for your cake? Regards, and success! Theabroma
  21. Throughout a lot of Mexico it is either Valentina or Valentina Etiqueta Negra, which is the hotter of the two. This is de rigeur at the market stalls, with the street vendors, and, best of all, the street-side potato-chip makers. Usually, if I want smokey, I'll toast up and soak a couple of chipotles or pasillas de Oaxaca, soak them, and puree them with some of the Valentina. It is very low vinegar, so you can adjust the sour level to your tastes. Regards, Theabroma
  22. You want 'Dutch Blue', and since the demise of H. Roth & Sons and Paprikas Weiss, I don't know what to suggest. An Eastern European bakery might be willing to sell you some of their stash. Otherwise a good pastry supplier will have them ... but in larger quantities. Since they have a fairly high oil content, you will want to store them, well-wrapped, in the freezer lest they become stale. That is why you need to purchase them from a supplier or user that turns their stock frequently. Regards, Theabroma
  23. The United Nations has, finally, designated la cocina mexicana as part of the Intangible Patrimony of Humanity. It is to be made official as of August 1st. In the first go-around, in 2005, it was France, fascinatingly enough, who prevented the designation being made at that time: http://www.jornada.unam.mx/ultimas/2010/07/23/declarara-unesco-cocina-mexicana-como-patrimonio-de-la-humanidad Pretty cool ... but we knew it to be true all along,no? Regards, Theabroma
  24. Oops! Take a look at www.laboitecafe.com for photos of the site, their menu, and photos of the shipping container as it began and how it finished up. Carolyn, you might also want to check out the El Naranjo trailer on Rainey street just south of 1st and west of the I-35 southbound frontage road. Chef Ileana de la Vega, who founded and had to close its namesake in Oaxaca due to the political madness there, has a trailer and is converting one of the old Rainey St. homes into a restaurant. Her moles, among other items, are not to be missed. Regards, Theabroma
  25. Ah, yes. Those macarons. But the pistachos would be even more improved with a pistachio buttercream to join them ... I found the dark chocolate ganache wonderful, but a bit muscularly steroidal as it overwhelmed the delicate pistachio. I have never had Gerard Mulot's macarons, but I cannot imagine that these lag far behind. Theabroma
  • Create New...