borough market

[pugster]

I've recently moved to london from chicago. On the advice of on Mr. John Whiting (thank you, thank you), I've been to the Borough Market almost every one of the few weeks I've been here (and it's only been a few so far). The only problem is, I find myself being a little overwhelmed. I know what I want in terms of fruit and veg. and I've fallen in love w/ Neal's Dairy Yard, but I seem to end up shying away from trying a lot of the other items there. Being indecisive by nature (and claustrophobic...) doesn't seem to help my cause either. Just wondering if anyone has any "must try" items or favorite vendors that I can purposely seek out instead of wandering aimlessly and trying to avoid getting trampled.

[Jonathan Day]

There's very little that isn't interesting at Borough market, but some regular stops for me include:

• Booth's, for mushrooms of all sorts and some very good salads and veg; the fruit and veg vendors near Booth's are also more reasonably priced than Turnips.
  
• New Forest Cider company
  
• The Ginger Pig (butcher); but many of the other meat and poultry vendors are also very good e.g. Farmer Sharp for Welsh lamb and mutton
  
• L'artisan du chocolat
  
• Brindisa, for everything Spanish especially wonderful hams
  

In general I find it easier to come to to terms with the profusion at Borough by focusing first on "unprepared" or "basic" foods (meat, fish, poultry, fruit, veg). There has been something of a trend over the last few years toward so-called value added products: prepared foods, spice mixtures, preserves, chutneys, etc. Many of these are delicious and hard to find elsewhere, but they can distract from a mission of laying in basic provisions.

[pugster]

Thanks, Jonathon! I have to say, mushrooms are always on my market list and I always like to find some good criminis. Although, I think I saw them called something else here...

I'm not sure if I've stumbled upon Booth's or not....but, I'll make it a point to check it out. And the other suggestions are appreciated as well!

Another thing I've been looking for since I've been here is Ume (umeboshi) Plum Vinegar. I can't find it. I always used to buy it at Whole Foods in Chicago and if there's one condiment i miss...it's my Ume Plum.

[Suzi Edwards]

i think you might be able to find that umeboshi plum vinegar in the "special selection" in sainsburies.

i'll second the brindisa call, but their shop in exmouth market (ec1) is a slightly more sedate shopping experience.

i also like the cool chili stall in borough, the only place i've yet found to get tomatillos :-)

[MobyP]

Pugster -

I'm exactly the same - although I'm agoraphobic (can't stand huge crowds of people), so I usually get to the market for 8.30, and I'm gone by 9.30, when the crowds start kicking in. But when I first went there, I'd get struck snow blind and end up only with half of what I needed.

As for names - they're difficult to spot. Booths is the nearest veg place when you're walking towards the market from Neils Yard Dairy (i.e. you turn right towards the market, and it's just there on your left - opposite the fish and poultry places). It also has large crates of the most amazing mushrooms - where everyone else only has a basket or two.

Criminis - I think - are just called brown mushrooms here (they're the young ones - cultivated as opposed to wild - that grow into portobellos. right?). I've seen them in supermarkets - but I'm not sure about Borough.

Veg is very expensive, so make sure you only buy there what you're not going to find anywhere else (eg cavalo nero, radicchio traviso, porcini - yes. Carrots, mire poix - no). The more often you go, the more you'll learn these things.

As for meat: the Ginger Pig (on the same side as Brindisia, but further down) does the most mind-bogglingly good pork. Gloucester Old spot, Tamworths (and there's a third one I forget - something like Pod). These are the old breeds, which they raise themselves. Apart from Niman Ranch, I'm not sure America has anything comparable.

Does anyone know who does the best meat? And has anyone tried the herdwick lamb? What characterises it?

The poultry place does great game, as well as european poultry (but not Bresse). And if you're in the mood for some fancy-pants cooking, they have the cheapest foie gras in town - it's Belgian, but pretty good. Also, their chicken carcases are 50p each (for stocks, etc). You might find them cheaper elsewhere.

I tend not to stray into the pre-prepared section of the market, past the train tracks. Although there's a good Italian stall there that sells different olive oils - I've had some really nice ones from there. Unfortunately we're in the dead zone for olive oil right now. The new season's about to come, and everyone's trying to get rid of last year's stock. So I stay away from the good stuff until Jan or Feb.

Also, I had a croissant there the other week, opposite the 'wild beef' or whatever that place is, and it must've been three days old, and tough as boot leather.

Edited November 17, 2003 by MobyP (log)

[balex]

i also like the cool chili stall in borough, the only place i've yet found to get tomatillos :-)

The Spice Shop off Portobello has tomatillos (amd lots of other goodies like argan oil, tasmanian bush pepper ...)

[rshorens]

I just returned from London yesterday and did go to Borough Market near Southwark Cathedral 2 times. Things I liked included:

Venison Burgers at the stall from Devon

Cheeses from the Comte in Jura(big wheels of cheese-they sell only one type)

Mexican hot chocolate(from the chili folks)

Italian cheeses from the fellow from Lago Maggiore(only sells Italian cheese)

Hot hard cider from the man with the funny hat

Buckwheat crepes from the crepe people(gluten free for those of you who have a wheat allergy)

the wine shop had some very tasty,reasonaly priced French wines- would have bought some had I been able to schlepp them back to California

Most of all- it was a fun place to wander around

[pugster]

just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions!! definitely better to have reommended stops to purposely seek out than to be guided by my aimless wandering. i'm so sad, i missed my weekly trip this past weekend. been fighting a bad cold and it was miserable on saturday...just couldn't get off the couch to brave the weather. but...now i have something to look forward to for next week! thanks everyone!

oh, one other question, has anyone encountered canned pumpkin? i missed my 32 year tradition of pumpkin pie on thanksgiving and have been scouring the sainsbury's and tesco's for canned pumpkin (sorry, it's the only way i know how to make it). if anyone has seen some, please let me know. or...better yet, if anyone has a recipe for pumpkin pie from scratch! i have an italian flatmate who's equally excited to try pumpkin pie!

[tony h]

I'm agoraphobic (can't stand huge crowds of people)

curious - I'm angoraphobic - can't stand knitwear

[jackal10]

oh, one other question, has anyone encountered canned pumpkin? i missed my 32 year tradition of pumpkin pie on thanksgiving and have been scouring the sainsbury's and tesco's for canned pumpkin (sorry, it's the only way i know how to make it). if anyone has seen some, please let me know. or...better yet, if anyone has a recipe for pumpkin pie from scratch! i have an italian flatmate who's equally excited to try pumpkin pie!

Waitrose sometimes has canned pumpkin.

Otherwise start with butternut squash, which is a close approximation to the sugar pumpkins used in canned variety. Ordinary pumpkin is not dense (too watery)or sweet enough. Peel, cut in half, remove seeds and stringy bits, chop into bits and boil, roast or microwave until tender, then blitz (an immersion blender works well). Proceed as for canned.

[MobyP]

I found canned pumpkin ('Libby's, is it? An American brand, at any rate) at Sainsbury's (Kensington) - in the canned fruit or baking section.

[MobyP]

And I could always let you have it at - erm - a very reasonable price.

[curlywurlyfi]

Borough Market recipe: per person. Pick a nice day, go EARLY and go to the Borough Cafe (opposite Neals Yard) and pick up a styrofoam box of their exemplary bubble + squeak (if you go later than about 10am they run out - disaster). then come back into the market and get a coffee and a hot sausage sandwich (or chorizo + rocket), and then have yourselves a picnic in Southwark Cathedral graveyard. one of my favourite things to do in London.

[pugster]

I found canned pumpkin ('Libby's, is it? An American brand, at any rate) at Sainsbury's (Kensington) - in the canned fruit or baking section.

WHOO!!! libby's!!! exactly what i was looking for. seriously, 32 years of canned pumpkin pie...hard to give it up.

[PoppySeedBagel]

Libby's pumpkin is also available in Selfridges Food Hall

[pugster]

oh, that makes me happy to hear, it really does. some people are repulsed by pumpkin pie, but it just makes me happy. it brings back all that festivity of the holidays...

[MobyP]

Welcome to eGullet, Pugster.

[pugster]

thanks for the welcome, moby p!

[Niall]

The Echire butter from the stand beside Mr turnips is quite good. He also does Stilton butter which I have yet to taste; but I am looking forward to trying it.