le Marais & Bastille - just returned

[RandyB]

Just got back last night from my semiannual trip to Paris. I'm online instead of sleeping because my body thinks it's 4 pm. Here's my report from the lower end of the price range:

My favorite local place is still le Relais St. Paul, at 33, rue François Miron, a couple of blocks west of the St. Paul métro station. This is southwest cooking with a prix fixe of 25 € of so for 3 courses. It is one of the few restaurants where a solo traveler can order cassoulet, and it is excellent. So is the duck breast, although the portion of meat is a bit small. The chêvre chaud salad is an included appetizer which often costs 6-7 € in other places.

The absolute bargain in takeout is the choucroute paysanne at Bofinger, a famous old but tourist-filled brasserie near the Bastille. For 10 € you get enough for 2 people. It does come hot, but probably works better if you have at least a kitchenette where you are staying to reheat it.

I had been hearing negative comments for several years about l'Excuse (at 14, rue Charles V, very close to my apartment), and had walked out immediately 4 years ago myself because the greeting at the door was so cold. However, I noticed that the latest guide books were giving it good marks. When some friends canceled out on a pizza date, I went there on a whim. You would think from its location and longevity on a tiny street off the small rue St. Paul is might be filled with locals. Not so. Most of the diners were American or English. A waiter told me that was normal.

The prix fixe dinner was 35 €. An amuse bouche of salmon in a puff pastry over something forgettable reminded me why I never order salmon in Paris. That is, living in Seattle I can usually tell the difference between fresh wild salmon and farm raised. In Paris what one almost always gets is farm raised, and this appetizer was oversalted and not all that fresh. The appetizer of ravioli filled with crustaceans and seasoned with coriander was very nice, albeit again perhaps a bit less fresh than one would hope for.

My main course was a filet of dorade (sea bream). This fish was very fresh and the portion generous. Served over braised endives and spinach, again with a coriander theme. Excellent. The dessert was a mediocre crême brulée flavored with orange.

The service was very nice, but ended on a very annoying note. Unlike most French restaurants, the menu did not state that the service was included in the price. When In inquired, the waiter was very cagey. She said that one could pay what one liked or nothing extra, either was ok. I couldn`t get a direct answer. (I am very fluent in French, so that wasn`t the issue.) I interpreted the ambiguous response to mean: "yes, service compris, but we hope that uninformed tourists will add a big tip." I just added a small cash tip as I usually do for good service. Overall, I say l'Excuse was not a very good value.

Finally, I have to mention Au Levain du Marais, 28, bd Beaumarchais in the 11ème, a couple of blocks north of the Bastille (closed Tu-We). This is a very small bakery that follows the oldest traditions in making bread, croissants, and pains au chocolat. A visit there will disillusion you about 90% of today's Paris bakeries by reminding you of what croissants and pains au chocolat should really be like. The baguettes, too, are outstanding, although the difference from the average is a bit more subtle.

[menton1]

I believe it is now French law that all restaurant prices are "Service Compris". The custom is basically just to leave a few coins. Recently, some waiter told us that they actually are displeased if you leave too large a tip. Waiters are a career occupation in France, and they feel it is a blow to their dignity if you feel they need a big tip!

Of course, when you get to the Michelin star restaurant category, there are a whole different set of expectations when it comes to tipping. I believe that was gone into in depth on another thread.

Edited November 15, 2003 by menton1 (log)

[fresh_a]

I don't know any French waiters who are disappointed to have a big tip. Any waiters anywhere, for that matter!

[Busboy]

Last time I was in France my wife made me ask the waiter if the tip was included, as there was no "service compris" not on the menu. The waiter replied the service was toujours inclus in France.

[Busboy]

Thanks for the Report, Randy. Looking forward to following your advice. Would you say that Bofinger is worth the tourist hell it appears to have become, for one dinner in what is by all reports a beautiful and historic room, or should one stick to the take-away?

[RandyB]

Thanks for the Report, Randy. Looking forward to following your advice. Would you say that Bofinger is worth the tourist hell it appears to have become, for one dinner in what is by all reports a beautiful and historic room, or should one stick to the take-away?

It is a very beautiful place and I think it would be fun with a small group. I wouldn't go there for a quiet, romantic evening. I should add that the waiters have always been quite nice to me even when I was just ordering takeout, so I expect they'd be the same inside.

[Felice]

When In inquired, the waiter was very cagey. She said that one could pay what one liked or nothing extra, either was ok. I couldn`t get a direct answer. (I am very fluent in French, so that wasn`t the issue.) I interpreted the ambiguous response to mean: "yes, service compris, but we hope that uninformed tourists will add a big tip." I just added a small cash tip as I usually do for good service. Overall, I say l'Excuse was not a very good value.

I know this has been discussed, but just wanted to clarify the waitress's response. Service is always included in France, but that doesn't mean the server is given a % of the check.

I work in a restaurant in Saint Germain and we are paid the SMIC (minimum wage) which is about 7 € an hour, but after all of the social charges come out it amounts to 25€ per service. Obviously someone working in a starred restaurant makes considerably more. But, I have spoken to many waiters and most are paid a shift pay and I have rarely heard of anyone making more than 50 € per shift, so believe me, your waiter appreciates a tip for good service. I wouldn't be able to continue working where I work if it were not for tips.

That said, I would not tip if the service is poor or rude and I would not leave as much as is customary in the States either.

There are still some places where the waiter takes a percentage of what the restaurant brings in, but it is becoming more rare I believe.

[RandyB]

I typically leave small change that amounts to about 5%. For example, after a 30-40 € meal, I'd probably leave 2 €. The percentage will be a bit more if I just have a coffee or one glass of wine, since it seems silly to leave less than 50 cents.

And, as you said, the amount may vary if service is poor or particularly good.

Edited November 20, 2003 by RandyB (log)

[cheeseandchocolate]

Finally, I have to mention Au Levain du Marais, 28, bd Beaumarchais in the 11ème, a couple of blocks north of the Bastille (closed Tu-We). This is a very small bakery that follows the oldest traditions in making bread, croissants, and pains au chocolat. A visit there will disillusion you about 90% of today's Paris bakeries by reminding you of what croissants and pains au chocolat should really be like. The baguettes, too, are outstanding, although the difference from the average is a bit more subtle.

I'm so glad to hear someone mention Au Levain du Marais! Amidst all the talk of Poilane, Kayser, Poujauran, etc., this wonderful little spot tends to get overlooked...but then again, with the lines already out the door, maybe this is a good thing! When I was living and working in Paris in 2001 and 2002, my apartment was on rue du Chemin Vert, just off blvd Richard Lenoir, and I happily took a daily trip over to Au Levain du Marais for their boules de campagne, flutes de campagne, and the occasional traditional baguette. And you're right--their pains au chocolat are sublime, especially around 4pm, when they're warm from the oven and flying out of the case into the hands of schoolchildren. I went through phases in my sweets consumption there, with my favorites alternating from their pain de Genes to the chausson aux pommes, coffee eclair, little cookie cups filled with mousse au chocolat, little lemon curd tartelettes, and on and on.

Oh, and there's another outpost of Au Levain du Marais on the rue de Turenne, just one block up from rue des Francs-Bourgeois. Look for the burgundy awning. Its days of closure are different from the one on blvd Beaumarchais.