Paris Dining

[jeffperez62]

I' ll be in Paris for a week in Feb. and I'm looking for restaurants/bistros that serve great food and would not throw me out if I didn't have a jacket on or if I were wearing jeans. Any suggestions? I'm also looking for a reasonable hotel in the 8th or 15th Arr. (100euro)

[Schneier]

My favorite, which I reviewed here, is Benoit.

Bruce

[Bux]

There were two men in Arpege that were not wearing ties. One of them however, appeared to make a point of leaving a tip equal to the price of a hotel room.

Few places that don't have four or five crossed forks and spoons in Michelin will have a clientele that is predominantly dressed in ties and jackets. I don't know how many places would actually throw you out anyway, but do you want recommendations of places where the prix fixe menu runs hundreds of dollars if they'll let you in, or do you want more casual places. Paris full of places that serve great food at a vast price range and this forum is full of recommendations. There must be dozens of recommendations posted in the past week. It's unlikely many are going to repost the same names. Thus I'd recommend you peruse recent posts on Paris and then ask specific questions that will let members focus on the kind of restaurant you want.

Out of curiosity, those two arrondisements don't abut. Thus they seem a strange choice. Why not a place inbetween. Paris is not that large a city and easy enough to get around in, but it might be more important to know if you want to be centrally located or not. Parts of the 8th are very central and a high rent district. Little of the 15th would be considered central. I don't have any recommendations in those arrondissements and most of the reasonable places I know are more like between 100 and 150 or so, but I think it should not be hard to find what you want in the fifteenth. Actually I think the Raspail Montparnasse has singles for less than 100 euros or did last year. As you get less central it should get easier to find a room for less.

[Schneier]

I wasn't wearing a tie on my last visit to Arpege. No one threw me out.

[tighe]

I'm also looking for a reasonable hotel in the 8th or 15th Arr.  (100euro)

On my recent trip to Paris, I stayed at the Hotel Exelmans, just across the river from the 15th in the 16th. Loved the neighborhood, but admit the hotel was very basic. If you're willing to pay for one of their 'superior' rooms (shown in the pictures), it would be a decent enough place to stay.

[Bux]

Hotel Exelmans

It's a bit remote. With one change, the you can get most places from the local metro stop however. The place appears to be exceptional for the price. I'll take a minute to comment on the very Frenchness of the decoration. In what appear to be smallish rooms, they manage to provide a considerable amount of furniture and then make all the desk and table surfaces useless to the guests by filling them with objects of no use. I remember tiny room once in a small town that was so cluttered with table that there was little room to walk without getting hit in the shins with a table leg or the four poster bed. It was hard to find space on the floor for one of the many lamps in order to make room to open a suitcase anywhere but on the bed. Perhaps I'm being harsh not to credit them for providing a coffee grinder for the occupant's use.

[DodinBouffant]

I typically stay at :

Hotel Central

1 bis rue de Maine(1 block from Edgar Quinet metro(also market there Wed/Sat)

01 43 20 69 15

about 70 Euros/night

Nothing special, but rooms are clean, showers are great and the husband-wife owners are very nice. I find the Edgar Quinet metro quite convenient.

Hotel Central was sold out for this trip so I am booked at Hotel Apollon Montparnasse for 79 Euros/night...yes I have an odd attraction to the Montparnasse neighborhood.

I have not stayed there before but will report upon returning.

I know they aren't the top of the line accomodations, but I don't really need all the cute little frillies...a clean room with a decent bed, a window and a shower is all I need....I'll spend my money on food and wine.

[Bux]

...a clean room with a decent bed, a window and a shower is all I need....I'll spend my money on food and wine.

I'll agree on the need for a window--maybe even before a shower. In my student days I've done alright washing in a sink or bidet, but the first room I ever had in Paris was on a back court with a wall inches away from a useless window that afforded neither view nor light. It was depressing the way no other room in Paris ever was and I spent many in the sixties in rooms without showers, baths or WCs. I was out of there the next morning and into a room with a window on the street.

[menton1]

Re/ Hotels, a wonderful choice is the Caron de Beaumarchais, rue Vielle du Temple corner of Rue de Rivoli in the 4th. The Marais is a great area to stay in, great shops, restos, and bars, very hip, but not the wall-to wall of humanity that you get in the 6th, and it's close to everything. In February you should get a room close to your budget. The rooms are small, but perfect. Immaculate, comfortable, all modern conveniences.

Most restos in Paris other than the Michelin-starred usually have casually-dressed diners; I would, however, leave your jeans home-- the French do not wear them much, it is a dead giveaway that you are a tourist.

[DodinBouffant]

Hopefully the window is full length and has a little perch where one can refrigerate little goodies on chilly autumnal nights. The window is a necessity, bathing in the bidet is well ummm out of necessity!!!

[Busboy]

Hotel Valadon

16 rue Valadon, 75007 Paris France

Voice phone (+331) 4753 8985 Fax (331) 4418 9056 info@hotelvaladon.com

It's in the 7th, but a great location near Invalides, the Tour Eiffel, Marche Rue Cler and one pf the city's great cheese shops. Kind of self-service (no food in the rooms, no desk help after 8PM) but a great location and recently renovated with Internet access in the lobby. I wouldn't consider it a "business hotel" but would stay there again as a tourist.

(Almost in the 8th, I believe) we had a fine, inexpensive and jeans-friendly meal at Le P'tit Troquet. Not Arpege, but swell. It's a Micheline "Happy Face" (I forget what they call it) selection, and very classically Parisian in feel. Very friendly. 28, rue de l'Exposition 01 47 05 80 39.

[Bux]

Re/ Hotels, a wonderful choice is the Caron de Beaumarchais, rue Vielle du Temple corner of Rue de Rivoli in the 4th.  The Marais is a great area to stay in, great shops, restos, and bars, very hip,  but not the wall-to wall of humanity that you get in the 6th, and it's close to everything.  In February you should get a room close to your budget.  The rooms are small, but perfect.  Immaculate, comfortable, all modern conveniences. 

Most restos in Paris other than the Michelin-starred usually have casually-dressed diners; I would, however, leave your jeans home-- the French do not wear them much, it is a dead giveaway that you are a tourist.

Caron de Beaumarchais is a hotel we've considered at times, but it's usually been booked up. It's a fairly well known secret and quite popular with those who know it.

As for jeans, not only the French, but all Europeans seem to think of them as much fancier than we do. In Europe they were never known as "dungarees." At Martin Berasategui, there was a couple in matching jean and denim shirt outfits. They were neither French, Spanish or American. They could have been Dutch or Scandinavian. I don't have that good an ear for languages with which I have no familiarity, but I don't think they were speaking Basque (Euskara). My wife found them appallingly underdressed, but saved her real scorn for the guy in jeans and a baseball shirt who was local.

[menton1]

Yes, you have to book way ahead for the Caron... we stayed there several years ago, the rooms are very tiny, but otherwise the place is great-- great location, great staff.

This past September we stayed in the Hotel de la Bretonnerie, also in the Marais, more expensive, about 150 Euros, but their rooms are among the largest in Paris, regardless of price-- the only drawback is no A/C.

N.B. Upon checking in this year, I asked for a room facing the back so to avoid the loud Paris street noise-- they had none, and the clerk said to me, "but Monsieur, do not worry, our rooms are all double-soundproofed". I replied, that's great, but, as the temperature is over 30°C. (about 83°F) we will have to open the windows!! She was clearly taken aback, and had nothing to say!! ( The French almost NEVER open windows!)

[hollywood]

( The French almost NEVER open windows!)

Guess that's the Old Europe.

[tighe]

Hotel Exelmans

It's a bit remote. With one change, the you can get most places from the local metro stop however. The place appears to be exceptional for the price.

When we stayed there the location was no problem because of three Metro/RER lines within easy walking distance that could get you anywhere with only one or often no transfers. Just my personal taste, but I really enjoyed being in a residential area.

I feel obligated to clearly state that the room we had looked absolutely nothing like what is shown in the pictures on the web site. It was quite dissapointing in fact. If I were to stay there again, I would be quite specific about wanting one of the 'superior' rooms, and maybe one of the rooms shown, in particular. My impression is that the hotel is slowly being renovated, but they certainly hadn't reached the room we had on the top floor (no elevators). The prices are quite good, but for what we got, didn't feel like a bargain; for one of the rooms shown it would be a good deal. The people who run the place are very nice and helpful.

[jeffperez62]

Thanks!! Keep the ideas coming...you guys are the best.

[Bux]

I replied, that's great, but, as the temperature is over 30°C. (about 83°F) we will have to open the windows!! She was clearly taken aback, and had nothing to say!!  ( The French almost NEVER open windows!)

Indeed. I can relate stories of stifling restaurants and stifling banquet halls. I remember being at a wedding party and wondering if anyone would mind if I opened one the many French doors that led to green lawns and trees outisde. There was only one that was open a crack. As if to answer my call, someone got up, went to the door--and closed it.

[Bux]

When we stayed there the location was no problem because of three Metro/RER lines within easy walking distance that could get you anywhere with only one or often no transfers.  Just my personal taste, but I really enjoyed being in a residential area.

The RER line didn't look that close on my map, but distances are deceiving on a map even in a city I know well. The fact that in my little Paris par Arrondissement, each arrondissement is drawn to a different scale, doesn't help.

I also enjoy being in a residential area in Paris and other cities. I even find much to compensate for being less than centrally located at times.

[byrdhouse]

Here in the far reaches of rural northern California, we are embarrassed to intrude on so august a discussion. But, taking advantage of a bargain airfare from our tiny community direct to Paris, we're flying on Christmas Day. Whatever money's left, we have to make count. Accordingly, we're planning to spend the next week or so discovering rural France, Orleans to Bordeaux to Marseilles and back via Burgundy. It will be very much off-season, which is fine with us, as we want to experience France without a lot of fellow tourists.

We are very serious about food, of course. But we will find ourselves in Paris on Friday the 26th, having to wait until the 29th (budget car rentals seem not to function on weekends) until we can head south to less expensive territory. We fully expect that we can find wonderful food that is less than Michelin-starred in the country, but how can we survive Paris without blowing our budget?

For example, in Chinon (thank you, Pan) we can look forward to a charming room at a hotel or chateau for 60-70€, and interesting regional meals that max out at 30€ per person. That's happily within our budget.

So how can we make Paris as cost-effective as possible? No Michelin hotels or restaurants, but if we DID go a bit over budget one night, where would it be?

[mareuil]

Hotel Valadon

16 rue Valadon, 75007 Paris France

Voice phone (+331) 4753 8985  Fax (331) 4418 9056 info@hotelvaladon.com

Friends of mine from California have stayed at the Hotel Valadon several times and have really liked it. It's near the rue Cler, a market street, and it's in one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Paris.

[Louisa Chu]

mareuil, I live in one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Paris?! It is pretty swell. Lots of inexpensive hotels in my area - the 7th - one of my favourites in Hotel du Champ de Mars. Nice, warm, Provencal-ish decor, nice staff, right off Rue Cler, almost directly across the street from Marie-Anne Cantin - one of the best and my personal favourite fromagere in the world. Right near Metro Ecole Militaire and two great bus lines - 80 and 92.

byrdhouse, I dream about getting back to rural northern California sometime soon - diving for abalone specifically - try the hotel above. And 30 Euros and under for a good meal? Easy - there are a ton of them in Paris - I've got a long list for the 7th alone.

Busboy, the happy faced Michelins are called Bibb Gourmands - and yeah, P'tit Troquet's cool - very snug and lots of locals.

jeff, no bistros going to throw you out for jeans - and dressy restos just won't let you in. Really it just depends - just ask. If you just want a place to stay in your budget in the 15th there's always the Ibis on Cambronne - no charm but clean and functional. No place I'd recommend in the 8th - either way out of the budget or no bang for your buck.

Bon voyage to all!

[picaman]

Re/ Hotels, a wonderful choice is the Caron de Beaumarchais, rue Vielle du Temple corner of Rue de Rivoli in the 4th.

I've never stayed in this hotel, but I like this area a lot. My favorite restaurant nearby is Au Gamin de Paris (51, rue Vieille du Temple)--worth checking out if you are in the area, IMHO.

Jamie

[picaman]

P'tit Troquet's cool - very snug and lots of locals.

Maybe I had an atypical experience, but when I ate here this past March, it was overrun with everyone but the locals. The food I had (foie gras with figs and toast; rabbit with mashed potatoes and leeks) was great, though, so I might have to give it another try someday.

One of the places I like in this area is Au Petit Tonneau (20, rue Surcouf.) Outstanding food (I had lentils with crayfish followed by veal casserole, although my partner's sole was the star of the evening), friendly management, and cats around to make me miss my own cats a bit less.

Jamie

Edited November 1, 2003 by picaman (log)

[picaman]

And that's all the "in this areas" for the day!

Jamie

Edited November 1, 2003 by picaman (log)

[Bux]

Here in the far reaches of rural northern California, we are embarrassed to intrude on so august a discussion.  But, taking advantage of a bargain airfare from our tiny community direct to Paris, we're flying on Christmas Day.  Whatever money's left, we have to make count.  Accordingly, we're planning to spend the next week or so discovering rural France, Orleans to Bordeaux to Marseilles and back via Burgundy.  It will be very much off-season, which is fine with us, as we want to experience France without a lot of fellow tourists.

We are very serious about food, of course.  But we will find ourselves in Paris on Friday the 26th, having to wait until the 29th (budget car rentals seem not to function on weekends) until we can head south to less expensive territory.  We fully expect that we can find wonderful food that is less than Michelin-starred in the country, but how can we survive Paris without blowing our budget?

For example, in Chinon (thank you, Pan) we can look forward to a charming room at a hotel or chateau for 60-70€, and interesting regional meals that max out at 30€ per person.  That's happily within our budget. 

So how can we make Paris as cost-effective as possible?  No Michelin hotels or restaurants, but if we DID go a bit over budget one night, where would it be? 

"The cook being in a whimsical mood, luncheon consisted of endless courses of hors d'oeuvres, followed by a rather wet omelet." Alice B. Toklas

Byrdhouse, you've really set out to cover a lot of ground in a week. There's always the question of seeing a little bit of a lot of territory, versus seeing a little of it very well. That's your choice, but let me point out that toll roads in France are rather expensive as is fuel. No matter how you look at it, a lot of your budget is going to be spent on getting around.

There's certainly good food and sometimes great food to be found at restaurants without stars. Traveling by car, you will also have the opportunity to get in touch with local food without eating in restaurants. If the weather permits at all, you should consider stopping at local cheese and food shops and eating lunch by the side of the road. That may be rough up north. We've run into snow in Burgundy in the winter and the Massive Central area should probably be avoided. On the other hand, the way from Bordeaux through Toulouse and Carcassonne to Narbonne along the Garonne and Canal du Midi is probably warmer and more temperate than any other non coastal area in France.

You should be aware than many hotels and restaurants take as much as a month off around Christmas time, but those that are open should not be full. Reservations should not be needed along the way in most of rural France.