Paris resto report

[Croque Monsieur]

I’m reporting on some restaurants we visited in Paris last week.

Grand Vefour. We went for the 75E bargain lunch (after painlessly reserving by email) and it was a great experience. Crowd about 1/3 American, 1/3 Japanese, 1/3 French. One of the great rooms, a warm welcome, and perfect service, if you’re not bothered by the fact that there are no women servers. The 75E menu, four courses, didn’t feature the most complex dishes and expensive ingredients on the carte, but still offered a completely satisfying suite of dishes.

Everyone else can thank the Americans that you now get butter at lunch and dinner, and at Grand Vefour two delicious chunks, sweet and salted, come in an appropriately-labeled silver box. Amuse of chopped raw white fish (I missed the species) with bits of herbs and red peppercorns, with a shotglass of sweet potato cream; fresh, earthy, and creamy flavors all at once. For starters, La Fox had the grilled eggplant, a slice paved with grilled veggie strips, surrounded by delicate globs of confit of tomatoes and a few shreds of fresh anchovy. My curried pumpkin soup contained oysters and a few delicate, mysterious ravioli. Both dishes balanced a delicate blend of subtle flavors.

For main courses, cod with a crust of many spices, and seared tuna, two large chunks of “loin” and a smaller piece of “toro.” Assorted veggie bits, fennel chips, and avocado slices on the side. All the accompaniments worked together to highlight the natural fish flavors. (The menu’s meat choices were tete de veau and roast pork.) A fresh Sancerre La Chene Marchands complemented the fish beautifully. A nice note was that I asked the sommelier for his recommendation among the Sancerres and he didn’t bring one of the most expensive ones (this one was 40-something E).

Guy Martin, the chef, is from Savoy, and the Savoy cheeses couldn’t be more perfect, especially an unbelievable aged Comte.

The usual three-course dessert featuring a blanc mange of green tea, with figs and date confit for La Fox, while I was stunned by the “signature” dessert, the palet of noisettes and chocolate. To call it a cloud of mousse in a chocolate cylinder on a noisette biscuit oversimplifies it considerably. With the petit fours they offer many kinds of chocolates, more kinds than you could possibly try at that point. The only drawback of lunch at Grand Vefour is that you really can’t plan anything for the rest of the day.

Au Trou Gascon. I think they got a Michelin star this year, and hooray for them, as they make regional dishes with imagination and to the highest standard. The huitres en gelee, with mysterious green and white chopped, almost pureed vegetables under the oyster and a light seaweed jelly glaze over it, multiplied the oyster taste into ocean essence—one of the all-time great dishes. Almost in the same league was the hare, marinated in wine and herbs, boned, stuffed with fois gras and braised, then served in a cylindrical slice covered with an almost black wine sauce that reminded you why sauce is such a good idea. La Fox loved her completely correct cassoulet and classic babas. All this with reasonably-priced southwestern wines, a restaurant that upholds tradition without being stuffy. This was the most memorable food we had in Paris.

Georges at the Pompidou Center. We didn’t go to Georges for the food but for a touristic experience, to see the décor and the view of the sparkly Eiffel Tower, and it seemed like a good choice for Sunday night. Wrong. Georges is a club, and if you’re reading this, you’re not in it. Georges offers non-smoking tables when they take your reservation, but don’t tell you the tables are right in front of the kitchen. The crowd was mostly American, Japanese, and French tourists. Beautiful people were scarce, but Georges held their tables, and almost all the prime window tables were still empty at 10:30. We knew not to challenge the kitchen, and had some good green beans and a decent if overcooked foie de veau.

Violon d’Ingres. I head heard quite a few good reports on this restaurant, which turned out to be the major disappointment of our trip. Things got off to a bad start when they tried to turn us away before we could tell them we had a reservation. The room is well-decorated in a subdued style, but there are no windows except in the front door. Although there is a no-smoking section the room fills with smoke quickly. The chef’s vaunted imagination seemed to be on holiday that night. In the persillé of chevreuil and fois gras, the ingredients and textures didn’t really complement each other. The selle d’agneau came in a tiny portion, slightly overcooked, and in such thin slices that they seemed dry. At something like 13 or 15E, the cheese course was three pre-cut bits, no choice. Wine prices were higher than Grand Vefour, most categories starting in the 70sand 80sE and going up fast. Our server poured La Fox’s tea immediately after the water went into the pot, then took the pot away, leaving a cup of almost colorless liquid. All in all, better forgotten.

My take on the Brasseries Flo operation. We went to the Grandes Marches after the Opera at the Bastille. I could make a reservation in advance on the Internet. Scores of people came at the same time and were quickly seated and served. We had a delicious wine—Guigal Condrieu—at a fair price, and the raw bar assortments were impeccable. On the other hand, the cooked food was strictly industrial. I wouldn’t go to one of their properties for a classic bistro experience. Proceed with caution.

Le Pamphlet. A family-run bargain bistro, three courses for 30E, in a relaxed, provincial setting with plenty of room and great chairs. Not great but good food, even two amuses: saucisson and cauliflower soup. We tried a delicious risotto cooked in squid ink with diced squid; scallops with salad, chorizo bits, and parmesan; entrecote with pumpkin puree; tasty pork loin topped with wild mushrooms, surrounded by mashed potatoes with andouille bits; poached pears. All with friendly service. A satisfying rest from haute cuisine, we’ll be back.

I haven’t been to Paris for about 10 years, and I had heard mostly the negative food news, how much harder it was to get a good baguette or croissant, etc. No one told me about one great improvement, that you can now get Belgian beer on tap in most of the cafes. A final question: is fish cookery getting worse in Europe or better in the US? Maybe because it’s so expensive, it often seems overcooked and over-handled, even in some of the better restaurants.

[Bux]

Welcome to eGullet and thanks for that report. It sounds as if you had a well rounded dining experience in Paris.

Everyone else can thank the Americans that you now get butter at lunch and dinne

Why do you say that? I seem to recall having butter at the table of two and three star restaurants rather consistently for at least the last 25 years or so. On the other hand, the less expensive restaurants still don't offer butter with bread. Your posts echos what others have said about lunch at Grand Vefour being a breat value.

It's interesting to read your comments about Trou Gascon. I believe it's still owned by Alain Dutournier who's been getting some good comments here for his main restaurant--Carée des Feuillants and some attention for his soon to open Pinxo. I think he's a solid chef who doesn't get enough attention and press.

Asking for a no-smoking in table in Paris is always a dilemma for me. I really abhor cigarette smoke when I'm eating, but I find many restaurants treat non-smokers with disdain. On the other hand there seems to be a growing number of chefs who ask their diners not to smoke in the dining room out of respect for other diners and the food.

My impression of Les Grandes Marches is that it's very atypical of the Flo operation and that the food was not representative of their traditional brasseries. It was meant to be a departure as it was the first time they opened a new brasserie rather than buying out an existing traditional establishment. We were there for a Sunday lunch two years ago and though the food was well cooked. In fact we wrote that it was simply prepared but excellent. I wonder if it's gone downhill. For what it's worth Christian Constant was the consulting chef and he's also the chef/owner of Violon d’Ingres, which did not please you either. I'm sorry to hear that, not because I've eaten there, but simply because we met him earlier this month as he was closing his new cafe for the evening and we found him charming and generous--he offered our group of eGullet members beers while his staff mopped and locked up.

In answer to your final question, I am sure cooking is getting much better here in the US, at least in some parts of the country and in some ways, we are now in a position to teach a few things to the French. Bear in mind that I've been a Francophile for at least forty years, but never a blind fan, or so I'd like to think.

[hollywood]

My take on the Brasseries Flo operation.

A final question: is fish cookery getting worse in Europe or better in the US? Maybe because it’s so expensive, it often seems overcooked and over-handled, even in some of the better restaurants.

As for Flo, I've always found their Julien tasty in a just folks kinda way.

For seafood, try Taira. It's a relative bargain. And good.

[Pan]

That was a great first post, Croque Monsieur, and I hope you stick around. I went to Grand Vefour in June of 2002 and found the cheese course the best course of all, especially the Comte'.

Where do you normally live?

[paulbrussel]

Au Trou Gascon. I think they got a Michelin star this year, and hooray for them, as they make regional dishes with imagination and to the highest standard. The huitres en gelee, with mysterious green and white chopped, almost pureed vegetables under the oyster and a light seaweed jelly glaze over it, multiplied the oyster taste into ocean essence—one of the all-time great dishes.

Le Grand Véfour is indeed not too expensive at lunch time, and I liked it as well.

Anyway, Guy Martin's recent book Toute la cuisine is excellent too, and the dishes in there are very simple to prepare.

I am a bit surprised that the oyster dish at Au Trou Gascon is about the same as the one I had at Alain Dutournier's two star restaurant Le Carré des Feuillants.

Of course both restaurants are Dutournier, but still.

Anyway, I liked that dish as well! (And by the way, it was completely described in the French version of the quarterly magazine Culinaire Saisonnier.)

(And Au Trou Gascon only had no star in 2002.)

[i reported a.o. on my meals at Le Grand Véfour and Le Carré des Feuillants elsewhere in the France forum.]

[fresh_a]

I enjoyed the report. One thing, though, is that you cannot see the Eiffel Tower from Le Georges....strange

[admajoremgloriam]

I just posted my second very happy report on le Violon d'Ingres (see my 'semaine du goût- week of taste' thread) and then read your experience and wondered just how incredibly different two experiences at the same place can be. I guess that is why reviews are helpful but only so much.

As for lunch at the Grand Véfour I have been tempted to try it for a while but also put off by the fact that almost all the ingredients used are cheap ones (which is not the case at Lucas Carton for example). Any imput on that? Does any one has an opinion on what is the best three-star for lunch in Paris?

[paulbrussel]

The best three star lunch in Paris? That is very personal, I would say. For me, it is definitely Pierre Gagnaire!

[Bux]

As for lunch at the Grand Véfour I have been tempted to try it for a while but also put off by the fact that almost all the ingredients used are cheap ones (which is not the case at Lucas Carton for example). Any imput on that? Does any one has an opinion on what is the best three-star for lunch in Paris?

I'd rather pay for the talent in the kitchen than for expensive ingredients, but I understand what you mean. Over a period of some years, I've had the most and least expensive menus at Carré de Feulliants and thought the most expensive one was the better value. While the Grand Véfour prefixe lunch seems to be a genuine bargain and opportunity, from what's been said about it, it's not going to be the best Grand Véfour has to offer. It should be compared to other meals at its price level. It also represents an opportunity for some who balk at paying the full price, to enjoy the service and the ambience.

[Croque Monsieur]

Thanks, Pan, and I normally hang out in Baltimore, or Lake Placid NY. Also, "Fresh_A" is mistaken, you definitely can see the Eiffel Tower from Georges, out the window on the entrance (toward the escalator) side. Don't go there anyway....

[fresh_a]

Towards the "entrance-escalator side" is NOT the Georges restaurant. It is the Pompidou Center escalator that brings you to the George restaurant level. From the George restaurants ITSELF (seated at ANY of their tables), there is no view of the Eiffel Tower as you give the impression in your post...

Edited October 26, 2003 by fresh_a (log)

[pirate]

I'm pleased to find my opinions on Grand Vefour and Violon d'Ingres corroborated by Croque Monsieur. And I especially concur with the comments on fish in Paris.

[Croque Monsieur]

With respect, Fresh_A is still wrong. I'm pretty sure we were in Georges (that's what my receipt says), and from our table (when the greeters weren't standing in the way) you could see something that looked remarkably like the Eiffel Tower, even sparkling on the hour. But I wouldn't go back despite the view.