Paris Restaurant Openings-Christmas/New Years

[anil]

Paris,Berlin and many major cities in Europe are ghost towns on 26th Dec - Only places likely to be open are hotel attached eateries. OTH, New Year's eve restauants should be open and really busy

[dallardice]

Paris,Berlin and many major cities in Europe  are ghost towns on 26th Dec

Same applies in my experience on 1 Jan. Never been in Paris on 1 Jan, but in other parts of France I've been on 1 Jan, nothing has been open.

[anil]

Needless to say, I'm more forgiving of bad weather at home (NYC) post any holiday - than I'm in a place out-of-town. I'll grumble about 43F in VIE, and call 43 to be OK in Manhattan on a workday - GF (Go Figure)

Having said that -- I was trained to explain these kinds of things

[Bux]

Never been in Paris on 1 Jan, but in other parts of France I've been on 1 Jan, nothing has been open.

It's not so different in most places. NY is pretty quiet. We spent New Years Eve in Downtown Marseille one year. I expected everything to be shut down the next morning and it pretty much was, but I wandered out while my wife as sleeping in and found a patisserie/salon du the with excellent coffee and pastries open for breakfast just a block away from the hotel. A few hours later we joined friends at Passedat's two star restaurant for lunch.

[cabrales]

What special events/activities (relating to food and other matters) might be available in Paris during X'Mas/New Years? I haven't focused on non-food activities on prior trips around this time of the year. For instance, have members visited the skating rink outside the Hotel de Ville?

[Louisa Chu]

I'm trying to get my head round various issues, such as - will restaurants be open as normal, both on New Year's Eve and on other days around then? will they be serving their usual menus? what places should I be looking to try out?

In an ideal world I'd want to spend around Eu160 for two for dinner, including booze, but would probably go higher in the right circumstances.

Thoughts? At what price point do you reckon you get the best value for money?

Most places will be open for NYE but it's not business as usual. Their focus will be on la reveillon - the traditional all-night NYE dinner - usually starts late and can go until dawn. But many will now do two seatings - one early evening for the older folks and then the late night one.

On days before - now - it's all normal. But on New Year's Day most are closed.

Most of the hot spots are booked so it's a matter of finding a place if you haven't done so already.

Menus are pretty extravagant sounding everywhere but the quality will vary of course. And prices ridiculous. Even the crappy little cafe above Ecole Militaire is charging about 100 euros per person.

We will be celebrating at home with friends. All-we-can-eat oysters, foie gras on toasted pain Poilane, Vacherin Mont d'Or, champagne of course and we think we're going to top off the evening with a drunken attempt at picking the tree full of ripe persimmons we just found at the Champ de Mars.

[Hypnotic]

Hello Folks,

I will be arriving in Paris on Christmas day ( MUCH cheaper airfare ), and I'd like to have a good (ideally very good) meal that night. Does anyone know of any restaurants that will be open? Au Pied de Cochon has been suggested, but I've heard the food there is only mediocre. Same question goes for New Year's day - is there any hope? Maybe I should designate Christmas/NY's day as the days to eat pizza or kebabs (BTW, I love good pizza!) I'll be staying in the 6th, but of course WILL TRAVEL FOR GOOD FOOD!!

Thank you!

[Louisa Chu]

Very good meal - on New Year's Eve - ADPA - menu for 680 Euros.

[TarteTatin]

Last year New Year's Day was impossible! Everything was closed, except places like Marty (not so good anymore) and the old reliable Bofinger. But make sure and make a reservation!

Boxing Day (the day after Christmas) be aware that we couldn't find any fresh bread anywhere traveling from Paris to Dijon and Beaune. It's the only time the bakers take off, so eat your bread at dinner and wait a day or so.

Also, the best thing to do on New Year's Day is to go to the Department Store windows...it's a lot of fun! Besides, nothing else is open at all.

New Year's Eve; its fun to get done your lovely meal early enough to leave around 11:30 and go onto one of the Ponts (bridges) with a bottle of champagne. Everyone pops their cork and kisses at Midnight and shouts, "Bon Annee", and then drinks their champagne. Lots of shouting from balconies and kissing. We vowed that every time we saw a couple kissing on a street in Paris we also would kiss....we've carried that on to the States. Unfortunately, there's not as much of that here!... Anyway, it seems very common to bring a bottle with you to your New Year's Eve restaurant and they'll keep it chilled for you until you are ready to leave - as long as you order wine/champagne there for dinner as well.

We'll be there again this year at Christmas-but going to Gordes first. Back up to Paris on January 1st...maybe we'll see you at the department stores!

[Louisa Chu]

Boxing Day (the day after Christmas) be aware that we couldn't find any fresh bread anywhere traveling from  Paris to Dijon and Beaune. It's the only time the bakers take off, so eat your bread at dinner and wait a day or so.

Oh no, there's always one boulangerie in a few block radius that stays open - Sundays, holidays - mine across the street was open Boxing Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day. It's actually a law - at least one boulangerie, one pharmacie stays open in every area. The French - slackers they may be - consider meds and bread vital to life.

And you such a romantic!

[saintfan57]

New Year's Eve; its fun to get done your lovely meal early enough to leave around 11:30 and go onto one of the Ponts (bridges) with a bottle of champagne. Everyone pops their cork and kisses at Midnight and shouts, "Bon Annee", and then drinks their champagne. Lots of shouting from balconies and kissing. We vowed that every time we saw a couple kissing on a street in Paris we also would kiss....we've carried that on to the States. Unfortunately, there's not as much of that here!... Anyway, it seems very common to bring a bottle with you to your New Year's Eve restaurant and they'll keep it chilled for you until you are ready to leave - as long as you order wine/champagne there for dinner as well.

I will also be in Paris (for the first time) over New Year's eve and that sounds exactly like what I hope to do! Do you have any recommendations for reserving a boat ride on the Seine as well that evening? I've emailed some of the ride providers through their websites asking if I'll need reservations that evening but none of them have replied to me.

Also, I'll be staying at the Hotel de la Bourdonnais, in the 7th Arrondisment. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to eat in that area? This trip is going to be a surprise Christmas present for my girlfriend and while I'd like to go to a nice place, I'm not going to be able to afford the 680 Euro meal mentioned above! :)

Finally, anyone know if there will be fireworks around the Eiffel Tower this year? I have heard sometimes there are fireworks and sometimes not.

Sorry for having as many non-food questions as food questions but I appreciate any info that is provided!

[Bux]

New Year's Eve; its fun to get done your lovely meal early enough to Also, I'll be staying at the Hotel de la Bourdonnais, in the 7th Arrondisment. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to eat in that area? This trip is going to be a surprise Christmas present for my girlfriend and while I'd like to go to a nice place, I'm not going to be able to afford the 680 Euro meal mentioned above! :)

On New Year's Eve, just about any restaurant that's open, will be making a big deal and charging perhaps twice what they normally charge. The menus may be special, but it's not a night for food value. If you're interested in food, you should never let yourself be limited to the area of a hotel in Paris. It's just so easy to get around. Nevertheless there's plenty of decent eating in that area. Cantine des Gournets has a star and is next to your hotel. Violon d'Ingres also has a star and is a few blocks down St.-Dominique as is Constant's new bistro/cafe. Fontaine de Mars is an inexpensive favorite of many and l'Auvergne Gourmande where we met a few members the other week for dinner has it's charms, especially at the price. All on the same street. What sort of prices are you looking to pay for dinner.

[saintfan57]

Bux,

I don't necessarily have a certain $ amount in mind and understand that a good dinner can easily cost 100 Euros or more (per person). If I could keep it around that or less for the New Year's Eve dinner I'd be very pleased. I would really like to try as many good places as possible on the trip and am wondering if I shouldn't go to one of the more expensive places on another night, when there wouldn't be the New Year's Eve price gouging.

That said, I'm not travelling all the way from St. Louis, USA to not do something special either!

[Bux]

I've never spent New Year's Eve in Paris. I have spent New Year's Eve in the provinces. We spent a few years celebrating with friends in a small town near Pezenas and we always ate in. We did however, make note of unusually high prices and entertainment at restaurants in the area. Once we spent New Year's Eve in Marseille, but skipped dinner entirely by having large lunches on New Year's Day and the day before New Year's Day. That time, we were meeting friends who just really didn't care for the late hour of the special dinners, nor for the noise and music that would accompany it. Maybe there's a suggestion there. Enjoy the evening in the streets and privately between the two of you and have good lunches on either side. 100 euros might not buy that good a meal in Paris on New Year's Eve, while it will buy some pretty good lunches and dinner a day later. My wife is not one for enjoying crowds or public celebrations, but sometimes it's different far from home. We found out we got caught up in the festivities in the old port in Marseille where there were numerous bands and fireworks. We had a great time and really enjoyed lunch the next day.

[paulbrussel]

I will be arriving in Paris on Christmas day ( MUCH cheaper airfare ), and I'd like to have a good (ideally very good) meal that night. Does anyone know of any restaurants that will be open? Au Pied de Cochon has been suggested.

Of course Christmas Day will be very expensive for dinner in the top restaurants. Wouldn't it be a pity if you have to spend all your money you saved on the flight for a dinner that is at that very day twice as expensive as usual?

Perhaps a nice idea: Brussels is about 1h25 minutes by TGV (if you book in advance, a return ticket will cost you 50 € per person) and Boxing Day is not a holiday in Belgium (neither in France by the way) so restaurants are open. Go to Bruneau*** or Sea Grill** and have a great lunch! (Don't go to the famous Comme chez soi***: it will be expensive, and might be disappointing.)

EDIT: I can't recommend Au Pied de Cochon either.

Edited October 28, 2003 by paulbrussel (log)

[admajoremgloriam]

If you're staying in this hotel (which I think is also the one where they have the one-star 'Cantine des Gourmets' - I have not been there since the chef has changed but I have heard a lot of good things about it so you could ask them if they have something special planned), you may consider, in line with the advice given above, buying a few nice things (Poujeauran for the bread, cheese at Marie Anne Cantin, a nice bottle of Champagne, perhaps some Petrossian smoked salmon - all of these being only a few minutes walk away from your hotel) and enjoying them in your room then going out for a feel of the atmosphere in the city. The day after will the right time for a fancy dinner or lunch.

[Bux]

If you're staying in this hotel (which I think is also the one where they have the one-star 'Cantine des Gourmets' - I have not been there since the chef has changed but I have heard a lot of good things about it so you could ask them if they have something special planned), you may consider, in line with the advice given above, buying a few nice things (Poujeauran for the bread, cheese at Marie Anne Cantin, a nice bottle of Champagne, perhaps some Petrossian smoked salmon - all of these being only a few minutes walk away from your hotel) and enjoying them in your room then going out for a feel of the atmosphere in the city. The day after will the right time for a fancy dinner or lunch.

Follow your nose, well perhaps your eyes, as not all those aromas make it to the street, down St.-Dominique. I believe Cantin is on St.-Dominique and Poujauran is just off and around the corner from Cantin. A good case has been made that Poujauran has the best croissants in Paris and I recall a wonderful flakey swirl of olive oil flavored croissant like pastry. It's a pity they can be so unfriendly as they are excellent bakers and dealing with them should be a pleasure. You should also pass a little place I've heard has great oysters. I prefer muscadet with oysters, but this being New Year's Eve, I'd go with the champagne. Smoked salmon and such delicacies might also be easier to have in your hotel than opening raw oysters.

Edit: See below for Anne Marie Cantin's address on a street parallel to St-Dominque a few blocks south. My memory didn't serve me well.

Edited October 28, 2003 by Bux (log)

[saintfan57]

Thanks very much for the info, it re-inforces what I had been thinking. The best plan is probably to enjoy a nice lunch at a quality establishment, then pick up some local delicacies and eat them in the room for dinner. After the evening meal we'll probably head out and just enjoy the atmosphere around either the Eiffel Tower (if they will be having fireworks) or along the ponts with a bottle of bubbly.

While I'm definitely looking forward to enjoying some good meals, my budget will only go so far. We'll eat at the nicer establishments other nights of the trip when there isn't the inflated new year's eve mark-up.

[admajoremgloriam]

I believe Cantin is on St.-Dominique and Poujauran is just off and around the corner from Cantin. A good case has been made that Poujauran has the best croissants in Paris and I recall a wonderful flakey swirl of olive oil flavored croissant like pastry. It's a pity they can be so unfriendly as they are excellent bakers and dealing with them should be a pleasure. You should also pass a little place I've heard has great oysters.

As a note to help you gathering the stuff, Cantin is in rue du Champ de Mars, Poujeauran is in rue Jean Nicot (and you should not go there without trying the Bellota ham next door) and the oyster place is probably "Paris-Brest", rue St Dominique (it is very nice).

[Bux]

As a note to help you gathering the stuff, Cantin is in rue du Champ de Mars, Poujeauran is in rue Jean Nicot (and you should not go there without trying the Bellota ham next door) and the oyster place is probably "Paris-Brest", rue St Dominique (it is very nice).

I stand corrected on Cantin's shop. It's been a few visits to Paris since I last passed through the neighborhood by day. "Paris-Brest" is the name of the oyster place. I assume the recommended place for Bellota ham is "Bellota-Bellota."

[admajoremgloriam]

Yes "Bellota-Bellota" is the name of the place. They have a lot of fine Spanish products (chorizo, manchego cheese, wine and tuna) but their pride and glory is the (extraordinarily) expensive bellota ham. It is however one of the finest foodstuff I have ever tasted, really to the level of foie gras, caviar or truffles. There is a small resturant section where you can taste different types of this ham (i.e. from different regions) in the best conditions (on top of some warm potato purée for example). The people in charge of the shop/restaurant are really nice and enthusiastic.

[Bux]

You're preaching to the choir. Even before I learned to appreciate Spanish cooking, I came to realize that the best cured pork was available in Spain. The ham, the lomo, the dry choricos were all exceptional by international standards. Hams that I was told were of average quality seemed terrific and then I began to pay attention to the prices of the best quality stuff in the markets. It was all domestic (from Spain in Spain) but far more expensive the prosciutto available in New York. We've been noticing more and more Spanish products in the south, particularly in the Rousillon and Pays Basque, but now we're seeing a lot in Paris.

[Louisa Chu]

saintfan, you definitely need to reserve ahead for a river cruise - dinner or not. I recommend Bateaux Parisiens - nicest boats - no comment on the food. Email or call but I was just over at their port this morning and they have no idea yet - just keep trying - typical with the French.

No fireworks at the Tower on NYE - they only did it for 2000 - but it should be pretty sweet at midnight with the new lights - so much nicer than the old ones - much more twinkly - every top of the hour for 10 minutes - from sunset to 2AM.

I've got a few more restos to add to my 7th arrondisement list - will post them before the holidays.

Hey, at least you've got gooey butter coffee cake - love that stuff.

[Hypnotic]

Thanks for your input. On NY's eve I will most likely buy up some goodies, and enjoy a picnic on the hotel room floor.

As for the Spanish foodstuffs, I definitely prefer chorizo to jamon de Bellota. I bought some of this esteemed jamon in June on my last day in Barcelona, to snack on during my flight. After spending 13euros on 3 slices and a small cube of cheese at the Mercat de Boqueria, I found the flavor intense, nutty, and rich, but I longed for the spice of the chorizo. If only I had a mere morsel now...

[saintfan57]

Thanks for the info loufood, I appreciate it! I will be on the look-out for your other 7th arrondisement recomendations as well.

Gooey butter cake is good but I haven't had it in years, I may have to pick some up soon! Do they have toasted ravioli or pork steaks in France too?