Homemade Mayonnaise: Science, Techniques, Troubleshooting, Storage

[andiesenji]

Here's a bit of trivia that might be of interest.

Beginning with the 1931 Model M4F, standard equipment that came with the Sunbeam mixer was a juicer bowl with reamer and an oil dripper that allowed adjustment of how rapidly the oil dripped into the mixing bowl. It was assumed that a homemaker (or the cook) would prepare mayonnaise fresh every day.

This attachment continued to be a standard part of the Sunbeam until the Model 9, introduced in August 1948, when the juice strainer was a perforated metal saucer placed inside the juicer bowl.

You can see the oil dripper pictured in the third picture (leaning against the bowl) on this page. Along with some of the other weird and wonderful Sunbeam attachments.

I have had good results with an immersion blender with its own little food processing bowl.

If you have a Cuisinart, notice that the pusher has a hole in the center that works just fine as an oil dripper/dispenser.

I have always had more consistent results with chilled ingredients.

I also pasteurize my eggs.

Edited March 27, 2007 by andiesenji (log)

[Norman Walsh]

Keep the ingredients cold and wisk the oil very, very slowly at first.

Thats the secret.

Regarding emulsions take the simple hot dog type sausage the secret of which is keeping all the ingredients very cold in fact just above freezing. prior to mixing.

I also think its easier whisking by hand, medical reasons exempt Marlene.

Norman Walsh

[Rebecca263]

I have a terrible time whisking by hand. I am just a doofus when it comes to time oriented activities, and it takes me forever to get the first bits emulsified. A cheap blender works wonders! And, remember, if it breaks or curdles, you can beat a new yolk in a clean bowl, and then add the broken mixture to the yolk, bit by bit. My daughter has had to do this a few times, it's easy, and kind of fun to watch the alchemy, too!

[Pielle]

I make my mayo by hand all the time. When you get used to it, it isnt a big job at all. I can make a cup of mayo in under 2 minutes, and that includes the time taken to wash the whisk and putting it away. It is not much effort, you just need to put it at the right place. No one is gona make me bother washing a blender or food processor for making mayo!

My method :

1st Buy a good whisk (under 5$ at restorant supply store)

-Put egg yolk, 1 tablespoon dijon mustard and a bit of lemon juice (to taste) in a bowl

-Whisk together until properly emulsified. My guess is that at this point, ingrediants are at room temp so starting temps is irelevant.

- Now add oil in a thin filet while whisking vigourously. Stop adding oil and emulsify proporly if you see an oil puddle

- Gradualy increase oil pourring speed and stop to emulisify proporly every time you see oil puddles.

- In the end you can practicly dump the oil in there.

-Salt and pepper to taste and then season for the desired dish!

Edited March 27, 2007 by Pielle (log)

[Jon]

Wow, thanks for all the ideas here. I did read the egullet course & Q&A threads, and was reassured that other people had similar difficulties. I also read wikipedia, answers.com and HowStuffWorks pages on emulsions in general and mayo in particular, and am starting to feel a little less ignorant.

So far, I've got the general idea that mayo is an emulsion of lots of oil dispersed in a little water (the water coming, I assume, from the egg and whatever acid is employed), stabilized primarily by lecithin from egg yolks but also by mustard. The vinegar or lemon juice provides water in which to disperse the oil, contributes flavor, potentially lowers the pH far enough to prevent the growth of dangerous bacteria, and possibly helps stabilize the emulsion as well (though I only found this last point mentioned once, in the egci Q&A, and nowhere else). Salt is just (just!) there for flavor.

More sources recommend room-temp ingredients than cold; those that suggest cold ingredients generally point to commercial manufacturing techniques, which make me wonder whether it has more to do with safety than ease.

The likely problems seem to come down to the mayo being too thin (add more oil), too thick (add more acid), or broken/seperated/not emulsified (start over). The last problem being the hardest (or at least most wasteful) to fix, one should avoid it by using fresh eggs, room temp ingredients, making sure the egg/acid mixture is thoroughly beaten before adding any oil, and then adding the oil very, very (very) slowly at first.

I find all of this theory so comforting. Now I need an excuse to make more mayo.

Thanks everyone!

[The Hersch]

More sources recommend room-temp ingredients than cold

I never in my life heard of using chilled ingredients to make mayonnaise until I saw the advice in this thread, and find the concept slightly weird, especially as most recipes I've seen start by saying you should have all your ingredients at room temperature before you start. That's what I've always done, and I've never had a failure in 20-some years, knock on wood.

[tino27]

The likely problems seem to come down to the mayo being too thin (add more oil), too thick (add more acid), or broken/seperated/not emulsified (start over).  The last problem being the hardest (or at least most wasteful) to fix, one should avoid it by using fresh eggs, room temp ingredients, making sure the egg/acid mixture is thoroughly beaten before adding any oil, and then adding the oil very, very (very) slowly at first.

←

If you find that your emulsion has broken, you don't have to throw it out. In a fresh bowl, add a fresh yolk and slowly begin to reincorporate the broken mayo into the fresh egg. Again, you want to start slowly, but as you start to create a stable emulsion, you can add the broken mixture in larger and larger amounts.

[legourmet]

[The Hersch]

All ingredients should have the same temperature. Doesn't matter whether they are cold or at room temperature.

You state this as self-evident truth. I'm not saying you're wrong, but can you explain how your statement is true?

[andiesenji]

You can find "mixers" just like this - some made for and with the Wesson name and instructions for preparing mayonnaise.

Pampered chef pump mixer

This happens to be a modern copy of the old "Mayo mixer" or the "Whixit" which was popular in the 50s.

I'll post a photo of the pink and black one I have (50s colors) and a photo of one of the old Wesson mixers.

Tomorrow, after I have dusted them off a bit.

These work quite well and with very little effort.

This is not the Wesson - it is in a high cupboard and I no longer do stepladders.

Note the molded words that say what this does with "Mayonnaise Miser" at the bottom.

Edited March 28, 2007 by andiesenji (log)

[deltadoc]

Immersion blender is the key. Never made good mayonnaise in a blender or by hand in a bowl or a food processor.

I like using EVOO, even though some say its too heavy in taste, and a mixture of vinegar and fresh lemon juice, along with the yolks and dijon, and S&P.

doc

[Pielle]

Immersion blender is the key.  Never made good mayonnaise in a blender or by hand in a bowl or a food processor.

I like using EVOO, even though some say its too heavy in taste, and a mixture of vinegar and fresh lemon juice, along with the yolks and dijon, and S&P.

doc

←

EVOO is good depending on the application. I go 100% EVOO if I make a mayo for a salad (ceasar mainly), I also go heavy on the lemon juice in this case. I also use EVOO in my tartare mayonaise. For dipping fries and for sandwiches, I would rather go for a high percentage of canola oil and put more dijon and less lemon. I seldom use vinegar and usualy go 100% lemon juice.

[menon1971]

You can find "mixers" just like this - some made for and with the Wesson name and instructions for preparing mayonnaise.

Pampered chef pump mixer

This happens to be a modern copy of the old "Mayo mixer"  or the "Whixit"  which was popular in the 50s.

I'll post a photo of the pink and black one I have (50s colors) and a photo of one of the old Wesson mixers.

Tomorrow, after I have dusted them off a bit.

These work quite well and with very little effort.

This is not the Wesson - it is in a high cupboard and I no longer do stepladders.

Note the molded words that say what this does with "Mayonnaise Miser" at the bottom.

←

Those are too cool! Especially the one on the right.

[andiesenji]

As soon as I can get the Wesson one down, I will get a photo of it also. It is in much better condition and has the original recipes with it.

I have some other "malt mixers" of this type and they all do a great job at whipping cream and making mayonnaise - one is hard plastic, also made in the 50s, but with a metal plunger. I used to take that one camping, back in the day, for beating eggs for omelets, making pancake batter - and making mayonnaise fresh every day. We could keep fresh eggs (purchased in Bishop, twice a week) in a hanging evaporative cooler - a canvas thingy, with nylon mesh "shelves" that could be hung in a tree. It had a water resevoir at the top that dripped down the sides of the canvas "box" and the evaporation cooled whatever was inside to about 25 - 30 degrees below the ambient temperature. It only works in low humidity and it is very dry in the high Sierras.

[andiesenji]

Here is the real, original Wesson Oil mayonnaise mixer, pristine, never been used.

Along with the brochure and recipe card that came with it.

Note! It states it produces mayonnaise in 90 seconds!! Not bad for a hand-powered mixer.

Note, there is a cupped depression in the top of the mixer that slowly feeds the oil into the mixer while one is operating it.

Edited April 8, 2007 by andiesenji (log)

[The Hersch]

That's really cool, but sugar has no place in mayonnaise. Egg white either. I assume this interesting little device would work with the classic mayonnaise ingredients?

[Rebecca263]

My daughter has made mayonnaise a few times with whole eggs. It happens. And, if you like um, what is it called, Miracle Whip, you will like the sugar addition. Personally, it's not my thing. But, I also leave out the mustard, oftentimes. I'm just WILD like that, you know!

Edited April 9, 2007 by Rebecca263 (log)

[andiesenji]

That's really cool, but sugar has no place in mayonnaise. Egg white either. I assume this interesting little device would work with the classic mayonnaise ingredients?

←

What egg white?

It was very common to use whole eggs in mayonnaise back in those days.

Actually, the egg white will actually take up oil more readily and the mixture emulsifies easier if a whole egg is used.

The end result is just not quite as rich as when just the yolks are used.

The volume will be proportionally greater because of the way the egg white forms into bubbles, thus increasing the surface area exponetially. It will also have a lighter mouth feel.

I have a great many old cookbooks - just flipping through three, I found 3 recipes for mayo with whole eggs, 2 recipes, using yolks only, both with the subtitle "in the French style" ...

I also remember a commercial for a famous product that was described as "Whole Egg Mayonnaise"

One of my magazines has an ad inside the front cover for Meridian Organic Whole Egg Mayonnaise.

So it is not unheard-of.

Edited April 9, 2007 by andiesenji (log)

[divalasvegas]

Okay, I'll be attempting to make blender mayo tomorrow--later today really considering the hour. Anyway, I really like Hellmann's mayo and would like to make something that tastes like it or even better of course. The ingredients I have on hand are: plain vegetable oil, eggs, dry mustard, salt, paprika, cayenne pepper, fresh lemons. I've checked out several recipes both here and on the internet and the amount/type of ingredients seem to be all over the place. For instance, for one to one and quarter cup of mayo I've seen recipes call for 1/4 tsp., 1/2 tsp., or even 1 tsp. of dry mustard. For blender mayo I've seen use egg yolk only or use a whole egg, or anywhere from 1 tsp. to 2 tbs. of lemon juice. A couple of recipes even suggest adding a tiny amount of sugar like 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. but I've never heard of using sugar in mayo. However, it may be present in commercial mayo.

Any and all suggestions are welcome to help me get the best results.

Forgot to add that some of the recipes suggest using white vinegar instead of lemon juice, but never both. I have just regular white vinegar on hand, not white wine vinegar btw.

Edited for additional comments/queries and for saying "eye" yolk instead of egg yolk which would be a whole 'nother thing and possibly attract the suspicions of the local authorities.

Edited April 9, 2007 by divalasvegas (log)

[Corinna Dunne]

My rule of thumb is to use a whole egg with a blender, and egg yolks when using a hand held whisk. In both cases the oil needs to be added gradually, but there is more room for error with the blender approach. And yes, mustard is great for adding to the stability of the emulsion.

The yolk only mayonnaise is more traditional and gives a richer, thicker result, lovely and wobbly! Although I love EVOO, I find it too overpowering for a mayonnaise.

If you add garlic at the beginning, you will have aioli (the French name for garlic mayonnaise), which is great for crutidees/dipping sticks of raw vegetables.

Let us know how you get on!

[divalasvegas]

My rule of thumb is to use a whole egg with a blender, and egg yolks when using a hand held whisk.  In both cases the oil needs to be added gradually, but there is more room for error with the blender approach.  And yes, mustard is great for adding to the stability of the emulsion.

The yolk only mayonnaise is more traditional and gives a richer, thicker result, lovely and wobbly! Although I love EVOO, I find it too overpowering for a mayonnaise.

If you add garlic at the beginning, you will have aioli (the French name for garlic mayonnaise), which is great for crutidees/dipping sticks of raw vegetables.

Let us know how you get on!

←

Thanks for your advice and tips Corinna. This is the recipe I've settled on though I intend to increase the amount of dry mustard, paprika, and cayenne called for. The source is Astray Recipes.

1 large Egg

1 tablespoon Vinegar

½ teaspoon Salt

¼ teaspoon Dry Mustard

⅛ teaspoon Paprika

1 dash Cayenne Pepper

1 cup Salad Oil

1 tablespoon Lemon Juice

Put the egg, vinegar, salt, dry mustard, paprika, and cayenne in a blender container, blending until well mixed. With the blender RUNNING SLOWLY, gradually pour half of the salad oil into the blender container. (When necessary, stop the blender and use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides.) Add the lemon juice to the mixture in the blender and slowly pour the remainder of the salad oil into the blender container, with the blender running slowly. Makes about 1 1/4 cups. Recipe By : From: Marjorie Scofield

I'll definitely report back with my results, good, bad or ugly.

[alanamoana]

Jon,

Note that the eGullet course suggest well chilled ingredients.  If there is a secret it is that emulsion are easier to develop at LOW temperatures.  (I always put vniaigrettes into the freezer before adding an oil emlulsion.)  All of the commercial mayo's use extremely cold ingredients for a reason.

The other well known secret is the importance of beginning the emulsion successfully with the very first few drops of oil.  Once the emulsion develop, you can move a little faster.

Tim

←

Keep the ingredients cold  and wisk the oil very, very slowly at first.

Thats the secret.

Regarding emulsions take the simple hot dog type sausage the secret of which is keeping all the ingredients very cold in fact just above freezing. prior to mixing.

I also think its easier whisking by hand, medical reasons exempt Marlene.

Norman Walsh

←

from Harold McGee's "On Food and Cooking", page 634:

All of the ingredients for making mayonnaise should be at room temperature; warmth sppeds the transfer of emulsifiers from the yolk particles to the oil droplet surfaces

emphasis mine.

Edited April 9, 2007 by alanamoana (log)

[Mayhaw Man]

Here is the real, original Wesson Oil  mayonnaise mixer, pristine, never been used.

Along with the brochure and recipe card that came with it.

Note!  It states it produces mayonnaise in 90 seconds!!  Not bad for a hand-powered mixer.

Note, there is a cupped depression in the top of the mixer that slowly feeds the oil into the mixer while one is operating it.

This is Martha Foose and her mom giving a quick mayo lesson during the (shameless eGullet sponsor plug alert) Viking World of Flavor Tour of the Mississippi Delta last year. They made several types of mayo during the demo (as did the tourists who got to make some for themselves after the lesson) on the backporch of "the big house" at Pluto Plantation

in the Mississippi Delta last year. It was a fun demo and everyone came away with the feeling that making mayo in one of those old Wesson mayo plunger devices is dead easy and highly efficient. I had owned one for years and it had served as nothing more than an interesting tchotcke on a shelf in the kitchen. I use it all of the time now. Making flavored mayo is fun to do and not a little satisfying, though doing it on someone's back porch in the middle of the catfish ponds, cotton fields, and pecan orchards made it just a bit more entertaining than it might have been otherwise.

[The Hersch]

That's really cool, but sugar has no place in mayonnaise. Egg white either. I assume this interesting little device would work with the classic mayonnaise ingredients?

←

What egg white?

It was very common to use whole eggs in mayonnaise back in those days.

←

Actually, I'm aware that "mayonnaise" is often made with whole eggs--practically all the commercial stuff is made that way, and with sugar to boot. The French sauce mayonnaise, though, has neither egg whites (from whole eggs) nor sugar. It seems to me that if you want a sauce that incorporates these non-classical ingredients, you might as well just buy a jar of Hellman's (Best Foods west of the Rockies).

I'm curious, though about blender mayonnaise. I've seen many recipes that call for egg yolks, but add that you should use whole eggs if you're making mayonnaise in a blender. Why is that? I don't see why using a blender would necessitate using the white of the egg. And if there's something about the action of the blender that prevents a successful emulsion with yolks only, does that apply to your nifty mayonnaise mixer as well?

(Notable commercial exceptions to the inclusion of sugar: Duke, available in the southeast US, and Trader Joe's private label, available where there are Trader Joe's stores.)

[andiesenji]

First of all, I am not an expert, I just have practical experience, quite a few years of it, but my methods are not the be-all and end-all of mayonnaise production.

I learned to make mayonnaise (back in the dark ages) with a pinch of sugar - that was just the way it was done because it seemed to work better - and we used whole eggs.

We also used chilled ingredients - I have to admit that it was not chilled as in a refrigerator, because eggs were not kept in the fridge, they were kept in a room that held a spring-fed cistern that was pretty chilly, even in the middle of summer.

And then there is the question of room temperature...

"Room temperature" can vary considerably - my kitchen, without air conditioning, can easily reach triple digits in summer. A friend who lived in a house in Yorkshire, England for a year, said she often wore her longies and a sweater, even in summer. She sent me an email during August, requesting I not complain about the 100-degree temps here, because she was sitting in her kitchen at two in the afternoon and it had yet to get to 15 degrees Celsius = 59 degrees Fahrenheit.

I will continue to make mine the way I have been doing successfully for close to 60 years. If room temp works for you, by all means do it that way. Your kitchen - your choice.

It is possible that the sugar adds a bit of friction - I don't think there is any argument that sugar does have an effect on casein - it has been proved in laboratory studies that sugar has an enzymatic action on the casein in egg yolks, as well as in milk, that makes the casein more "gluey" so to speak.

Painters using egg tempera paint on resistant surfaces, learned that a tiny pinch of sugar increased its adhesivness.

Anyway, who cares what works, as long as it works for you.

I don't think in most cases there is enough sugar to actually affect the taste all that much.

You also have to also think about the times that these old recipes were formulated.

In the 1930s and during WWII, eggs were expensive. They were used sparingly unless one lived on a farm or had a few chickens.

It would have been considered incredibly wasteful to use just the yolk of an egg and there wasn't much one could do with the white of just one egg. (who knew from egg white omelets back then?)

So that is one social reason.

In the UK they did without mayonnaise for years during and after WWII because eggs were scarce, non-existant or rationed. They had lots of recipes for mayonnaise substitutes, most of which would have horrified any ordinary French homemaker.

Regarding the bit about blender mayonnaise.

First of all, the volume of a single egg yolk is not great enough to actually blend easily before adding the oil, and egg yolks can be tricky - too much heat - produced by the rapid speed of the blender blades, can actually "cook" the yolks before they begin to emulsify.

Having had this experience first hand, when making a batch of lemon curd, I know whereof I speak. I had lumps, suspiciously similar to scrambled eggs, which I fortunately noticed prior to using the beaten yolks. Straining them revealed some congealed stuff. Never made that mistake again. (That Vita-Mix is a very powerful blender!)

In any event, there are probably thousands of ways to produce mayonnaise. I like these old hand mixers, the little electric "mixettes" as well as the big mixers.

I've even seen a batch whipped up with a whisk made of strips of bamboo, during a visit to Hawaii many years ago.