The developing Israeli wine market

[Andre]

Hi Andrea,

The reason for that is fairly simple. Many of the winemakers in Israel are relatively young and mostly had studied in Adelaide and Davis. Now they have a huge responsibility on their shoulders and that responsibility is partially solved by the oak.

Many of the grapes they use are also from fairly young vines so there is little hope for full bodied balanced reds currently.

The public is also quite new at this game. Newcomers search for the familiar and the oak provides that kind of familiarity.

The oak provides longer aging ability with somehow steady familiar flavors so those who buy their little concentrated wines don't feel that their money had gone down the drain.

Now the critic forms another problematic issue.

Show me one critic who will highly grade unoaked wines - not likely I am afraid. Robert Parker Jr. and the gang drove the finest winemakers into new oak barrels sometimes especially prepared for his highness in order to get that higher mark.

New winemakers and wineries desprately need the high grades.

People are less interested in the fine palate of Jancis Robinson and are much more into Parker.

As much as it is depressing sometimes, it is facinating how history repeats itself.

[richw]

Just curious. Does Botrytis cinerea (noble rot) ever affect the vines of Israel?

[Mark Sommelier]

Just curious. Does Botrytis cinerea (noble rot) ever affect the vines of Israel?

No, I can't imagine it happening there.

[Mark Sommelier]

Hi Andrea,

The reason for that is fairly simple. Many of the winemakers in Israel are relatively young and mostly had studied in Adelaide and Davis. Now they have a huge responsibility on their shoulders and that responsibility is partially solved by the oak.

Many of the grapes they use are also from fairly young vines so there is little hope for full bodied balanced reds currently.

The public is also quite new at this game. Newcomers search for the familiar and the oak provides that kind of familiarity.

The oak provides longer aging ability with somehow steady familiar flavors so those who buy their little concentrated wines don't feel that their money had gone down the drain.

Now the critic forms another problematic issue.

Show me one critic who will highly grade unoaked wines - not likely I am afraid. Robert Parker Jr. and the gang drove the finest winemakers into new oak barrels sometimes especially prepared for his highness in order to get that higher mark.

New winemakers and wineries desprately need the high grades.

People are less interested in the fine palate of Jancis Robinson and are much more into Parker.

As much as it is depressing sometimes, it is facinating how history repeats itself.

Andre,

Many years ago, I was told by André Gagey (the President of Louis Jadot), "Too much oak in a wine is llike too much makeup on a woman".

[Andre]

Just curious. Does Botrytis cinerea (noble rot) ever affect the vines of Israel?

It happened naturally only once and it came out in thje form of Sauvignon Blanc Yarden Late Harvest by the Golan Heights winery. If I am not mistaken, the winemaker at the time was Andrew Star. After several years in the bottle the wine developed beyond expectations from a rather simple med.-sweet simple version to a rather complex, smooth mildly sweet wine that was indeed a pleasure to drink.

Another time I was not completely sure of is Wine maker Gil Shatsberg, on his return from his studies at Davis, managed to come up with a small quantity of Semillion Late Harvest that was thought to be Botrytis but ea not. As far as I can remember it was a 1998 vintage. Shatsberg, who worked for Carmel at the time is currently the winemaker of Amphora.

Now the Golan Heights, in a joint venture [sponsering the research] with the University of Tel-Aviv managed to cultivate the Noble Rot and came out with their new experimental version last year.

Also there is the Heightswine - the GH version of Ice Wine.

Back to your question. Noble Rot affected vines in Israel only once naturally and it was the SB Yarden 1988.

[Andre]

Hi Andrea,

The reason for that is fairly simple. Many of the winemakers in Israel are relatively young and mostly had studied in Adelaide and Davis. Now they have a huge responsibility on their shoulders and that responsibility is partially solved by the oak.

Many of the grapes they use are also from fairly young vines so there is little hope for full bodied balanced reds currently.

The public is also quite new at this game. Newcomers search for the familiar and the oak provides that kind of familiarity.

The oak provides longer aging ability with somehow steady familiar flavors so those who buy their little concentrated wines don't feel that their money had gone down the drain.

Now the critic forms another problematic issue.

Show me one critic who will highly grade unoaked wines - not likely I am afraid. Robert Parker Jr. and the gang drove the finest winemakers into new oak barrels sometimes especially prepared for his highness in order to get that higher mark.

New winemakers and wineries desprately need the high grades.

People are less interested in the fine palate of Jancis Robinson and are much more  into Parker.

As much as it is depressing sometimes, it is facinating how history repeats itself.

Andre,

Many years ago, I was told by André Gagey (the President of Louis Jadot), "Too much oak in a wine is llike too much makeup on a woman".

Mark,

I prefer my women with no make-up at all Although I do understand that some have no choice but use it

[KatieLoeb]

Andre:

Many thanks for your unbelievably thorough coverage of this interesting topic. I just finished writing an article about Passover wines available in Philadelphia (really only from one source - we have a state run liquor system here ) and came across many of the names of wines that you mentioned. I've tried the Yarden wines, Golan wines and the Dalton Cabernet (quite tasty and my favorite thus far), but I realize there are so many more that I need to explore. Your catalogue of my choices will make it that much easier for me to accomplish in an orderly fashion.

L'Chaim and thanks again!

[bloviatrix]

Katie -- can you share your article with us non-Philadelphians? I'm always curious to see what the experts suggest.

[KatieLoeb]

Katie -- can you share your article with us non-Philadelphians?  I'm always curious to see what the experts suggest.

I just submitted it to the editor late last night so it's not in it's final form yet. Basically, I got Passover friendly recipes from various chefs in Philadelphia and pair kosher for Passover wines with the various dishes. The article is for The Jewish Exponent (Phila. edition) and I don't know if they have a website, and if they do, whether entire articles are available for the public or not. However, I will be asking to have the final version of the text e-mailed back to me once it goes to press and I'll be cutting and pasting it if not providing a link in the PA forum. I'll certainly let you know when that happens. Thanks for asking.

I can tell you that I uncovered a hidden gem of a kosher wine shop in Philadelphia that I'm certain not nearly enough people know about. It's called Rosenberg Blue Star Wine Company and is currently located in the Northeast section of the city. Excellent selection of kosher wines and spirits from all over the world. The state run liquor stores have virtually NO selection at all of kosher wines other than the usual sweet and sticky ceremonial stuff, so this was a real treat to stumble upon. In addition, the gentleman that runs the wine shop really knows his stuff and can play sommelier as well, as he often does for clients and kosher caterers in the region.

[Andre]

100 $ bottle of wine ?

I am afraid so.

For the first time, An Israeli wine will be selling for 100$ on release.

On a wine tasting last Thursday, Winemaker Itsik Zauberman og the Zauberman garage winery, displayed his new Cabernet Sauvignon, Zauberman 2001.

Now check this: The wine is a concentrated 15.6% alcohol monster.

Following the Amarone idea, the grapes were dried [ using a cooling proces ] and concentrated.

the 2003 seems a fruit bomb expressing the year better.

Hardly an every day wine in terms of price and concentration.

The most expensive wine sold till now is the Golan Heights Katzerin 1996 apx 50$ on release in Israel.

The Zauberman Cab 2001 is due to be released in a month.

Edited March 16, 2004 by Andre (log)

[Andre]

Following the Lerner of Holywood report about the investment in Benyamina, following is my report of the wine.

The New Benyamina

When you invest in a winery and change the winemaker, former wines that had been made prior to the changes, don’t just vanish into thin air. The “new” winery may need a minimum of three to four years to express its new potential.

Winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon did go a long way after replacing former winemaker Amram Soratski and one of his signatures are gentle, well balanced wine with a mild use of oak [ a nice change theses days ].

Following are the new wines tasted March 21st 2004:

Sauvignon Blanc Galilee region, Beyamina Special Reserve 2003.

Bottled March 20th.

Light greenish towards straw color

Sweet aromatic nose of freshly picked pears and melons along with some citrus blossom and wet green grass. Grapefruits linger a bit on the finish with a pleasant acidity.

Very smooth on the entry with passion fruit dominating the ripe fruity flavors with some grapefruits and a grassy medium long finish.

Medium – light bodied wine, very pleasant, elegant and very well balanced.

A great job by winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon with a nice change of 12 d. alcohol.

Chardonnay, Galilee Benyamina Special Reserve 2002.

Very light clear golden color.

Very light buttery towards sweet banana and apple nose. [The aroma of banana in Chardonnay or other wines may be as a result of a use of certain kind of oak namely Australian wood chips].

In the mouth the wine is light bodied with some fruits and mildly oaked.

Lacks body and character with a short finish. Drink now.

Gewurztraminer, Galilee Benyamina Special Reserve 2003

Medium dry harvested in the Tabor area – lower Galilee. Note that the winery makes also a sweet version of Gewurztraminer that will be reported on later on.

Light yellow color towards pink

Very aromatic sweet leeches and Jasmine blossom nose with some hints of spices and a honeysuckle finish.

Medium dry perfumed wine that seems to lack body and acidity, A relatively short finish.

A huge gap between the well-rounded nose and rather flat taste. Drink now.

Tempranillo Benyamina 2002.

A second try of Tempranillo in Israel from Benyamina

Light red towards Bordeaux color.

A pleasant mild ripe red berry nose with some Caramel lingering.

In the mouth the wine is round with ripe red fruits, medium towards light bodied with a smooth tannin finish [little oak is apparent]. A rather simple food-friendly wine even though it is a better wine from Benyamina’s 2001 first attempt.

Merlot Benyamina Special Reserve Galilee region, 2000.

Dark intense red-ruby color.

Av beautiful aromatic nose consisting of sweet berries: cassis, raspberries and some dark cherry liquer ending with chocolate and subtle wood.

On the entry the wine displays ripe fresh red fruit flavors with hints of over-ripe fruits and aldehydes [oxidized tannins].

A medium bodied wine with little potential of progress. Drink now – 2006. APX 15$

Cabernet Sauvignon Benyamina Special Reserve, Galilee region 2000.

Dark brick-red color.

Mild oaky aromas dominate this rather gentle Cabernet nose. The wine takes about 15 minutes to start opening up and may need a few more month to further develop. Like the Merlot, over exposure to air leaves some oxidized aromas lingering after the smooth cassis and plum entry. Smooth and very pleasant well-balanced wine in the mouth but a slightly oxidized and disappointing aftertaste. Drink 2004-2006.

The Cave, Galilee region, 2000.

The cave is Benyamina’s top line, yet, nowhere is the name of the winery mentioned on the label. The marketing strategy behind this wine is to brand name this top quality as a separate product line.

The wine is supposedly produced in a cave in the Milek valley near the village of Bat-Shlomo.

Dark red cherry-Bordeaux color.

A concentrated ripe plums, dark cherries, dried plums, almonds and subtle oak, very well balanced nose. [The wines starts to open up after 1 hour or so].

Soft smooth texture of prunes and a bit of cassis, little acidity and some soft tannins with a medium long somehow disappointing finish. Drink now – 2005.

Gewurztraminer Dessert, Benyamina Special Reserve 2003.

Clear lively straw with hints of pink.

Rosewater, jasmine blossom, honey, leeches, sweet apricot syrup dominate this very aromatic nose.

Mildly and pleasantly sweet on the entry with honey and apricot syrup dominating the mouth.

Medium long finish. Very plesant well balanced with a beautiful nose.

Drink now. 11$

In am not sure about the US prices though experience tells they should be simillar.

[bloviatrix]

As always, thanks for the update.

The Sauvignon Blanc SR sounds appealing. When do you think it will be released?

I'll also keep an eye out for The Cave.

[Andre]

As always, thanks for the update.

The Sauvignon Blanc SR sounds appealing. When do you think it will be released?

I'll also keep an eye out for The Cave.

Most welcome,

Benyamina is imported to the States by Royal Wine Corp -New-York, N Y. - they should know best.

Labels are ready so I believe the wine should be there shortly.

[KatieLoeb]

I finally cut and pasted my article on Passover wines into the PA forum. You can read it HERE

[bloviatrix]

Andre -- we finally broke out a bottle of the Recanati SR. I served it with a marinated London Broil. We enjoyed it so much that I'm planning on picking up a couple more bottles since it's on sale. I found it too intense at first -- all these flavors jumping out at me and I couldn't identify any. But after sitting in the glass it opened up. The initial flavors were of fruit - dark berries perhaps? But I felt there was something almost chocolately in the finish. This is definitely a wine that needs to be drunk with food.

[bloviatrix]

Yarden Winery just celebrated its 20th B-day and released 3000 0.375 bottles of:

Yarden Noble Semillon 2001(Botrytis)

It is on sale since last week, and moving fast. Haven't tried it yet, but heard it is the best Israeli Dessert wine ever. It costs 95 Shekels = 22 $

Go for it, Passover would never be the same.

Boaziko

I had an opportunity to speak with some people from Yarden today. This wine will be available in the States this summer. Although they don't want to be held to exact schedule, they said start looking in June.

[Andre]

Andre -- we finally broke out a bottle of the Recanati SR. I served it with a marinated London Broil. We enjoyed it so much that I'm planning on picking up a couple more bottles since it's on sale. I found it too intense at first -- all these flavors jumping out at me and I couldn't identify any. But after sitting in the glass it opened up. The initial flavors were of fruit - dark berries perhaps? But I felt there was something almost chocolately in the finish. This is definitely a wine that needs to be drunk with food.

I am glad you enjoyed it. The chocolate flavor is like that of older wines and it does reflect the characteristics of the Recanati SR 2000. It seems to age very fast.

The new 2001 is out now and unlike the blended 2000 [ 50% merlot 50% Cab. ] is a varietal Cab.

I will post my TN'S as soon as I can get rid of an illness that is KKhepsing my senses.

The rising number of boutique wineries is surely affecting the industrial wineries' sale as far as quality wine sales are concerned this passover. Note that this is the best wine selling seasonn of the year in Israel.

Best,

Andre

[Andre]

A 1993-2003 boutique Cabs I performed last week.

The only large winery is Tishbi and their 1996 is their first attempt at a single vineyard, it is also the only kosher wine on this list.

Cabernet Sauvignon Tsora 1993

Well rounded with plenty of dried fruits and toasted oak. Enjoy now or push your luck 2 more years.

Cabernet Sauvignon Bustan Samson region 1994.

The fruit had subsided in this wine giving room to sweet vanilla and and some rather harsh tannins.

Little is left of the grape flavors though oak lovers might still enjoy this wine.

Drink up

Cabernet Sauvignon Saslove Mirage 1995 and 1996.

The wines had seen better days but that must have been a while ago….

Cabernet Meishar 1996

Perfect cork but that is the only positive thing about this old timer. I suggest sticking to the beautifully drinking 1997 from this winery.

Cabernet Sauvignon Jonathan Tishbi Reserve single vineyard 1996.

Muscle with no elegance. Still firm tannins with little hope of developing further complexity. Drink now – 2006.

Cabernet Sauvignon Lavi 1997

An unsuccessful attempt of the famous viticulturist family Lavi [ a major supplier for the Carmel winery] that resulted in this fairly good Cabernet that perhaps signified a good start.

Drink noow – 2006.

Cabernet Sauvignon Margalit 1997

It seems Margalit had difficulties repeating the 1993 success. The wine rounds up after apx.. 2 hour of breathing - drink up.

Cabernet Sauvignon Soreq Special Reserve 1999

Massive and full bodied that will fully open-up in a year or two and promises to hold until 2008. One of the more impressive 1999 Israeli Cabernet.

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Flam 2000

A beautiful combination of ripe flavours, elegance and firm structure.

Drink now – 2007.

Cabernet Sauvignon Primo Reserve , Chillag 2001

Not your every day Cabernet yet very well balanced complex and fairly interesting. This wine was meant to follow no leader.

Drink now – 2007.

Cabernet Sauvignon Bravdo,Karmei Yossef 2002.

Fairly young with the 10% Merlot standing out in a rather vegi aspect.

Drink 2005-2008.

Cabernet Sauvignon SUNNY hills, Mony Winery 2003.

Israel’s Best value Cab. at just 8 $ a bottle for a medium bodied well made wine

[Andre]

The Chillag Winery,

A one-woman show or...

Solecism of the Israeli wine market.

Viticulture had been the remedy for both fighter and politicians since Roman times. Winemaker Orna chillag seems to be no different. Being a long time peace activist and having enough of the Israeli political scene Orna left the rather nasty world of politics and ended up in Milan’s Catholic University where she studied winemaking and aided in the production of Antinori’s famous Guado Al Tasso 1998.

Orna came back to Israel in 1999 and now produces non-kosher quality wine aiming to be a traditionalist as much as the vineyards may help her to be. Orna’s high respect for the terroir lead her to several vineyards both in the Galilee and in the Judan hills [Jerusalem]. All her wines are unfiltered and aged in French Barique only.

Merlot Primo, Chillag 1999.

A single barrel produced in Orna’s first attempt. 100% Merlot grapes from the Ayalon valley, hand picked and aged 13 months in French oak. Mrs. Chillag’s wine earned high recognition in Italy and she was later nominated Catellana – woman’s knighthood.

Dark deep cherry color.

Well-balanced oak and cherry nose with some depth and concentration that require several minutes to develop in the glass. The oak provides some tannins and spices while dried red prunes and forest berries start to appear and continue to develop 5-10 minutes later.

Soft on the entry with good backbone acidity and plenty of red ripe fruits concerted by a spicy finish.

Oak overpowers the finish joined by good acidity [quite a phenomena in Israel ]. Minutes later the finish is a bit mote balanced but still oak overpowers.

A wonderful first attempt by this talented lady.

Merlot Chillag 2000

90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet from right off the Lebanese border in the area of Manara [780m above sea level].

Deep concentrated red Bordeaux color.

Fully developed, concentrated raspberry and forest berries nose with hints of vanilla and spice mingled into mild oak bouquet. Quite a bg nose in need of several minutes to open up.

Very smooth on the entry with massive tannins, good acidity and plenty of ripe fruits surfacing several seconds after the encounter. Although aged for 18 months in oak, the wine shows excellent balance and sits well within its 14% alcohol frame.

Ready for drinking now but best between 2005-2010.

Cabernet Sauvignon Chillag 2000.

90% Cabernet 10% Merlot East of the Ayala valley 750m elevation.

Very dark Bordeaux color with much depth and concentration.

The nose is very ripe and concentrated with hints of oxidization, as grapes may have been harvested slightly over ripe.

Very ripe concentrated flavors, full-bodied with plenty of complexity, chewy tannins and well-balanced acidity. The wine promises a good aging potencial and is a good example of what Israeli Cabernet Sauvignon should aspire to.

2004-2008.

Merlot Primo Chillag 2001.

A long distance runner.

This is a classical old world Merlot with green tannis overpowering ts still not developed flavors.

Vanilla sweet red fruits and even some pineapple appear after enough patience and create a beautifully balanced nose.

Plenty of tannins and acidity promise a very good future for this very well made merlot. Time will shed kindness on this fine creation.

Drink 2005-2010.

Giovani, Chillag 2003

100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

This dark red young wine is as youthful and energetic as expected from its name.

Green and ripe fruits form this young wines bouquet with some fresh plums dominating the scene.

In the mouth, ripe prunes and black berries are balanced by good acidity and just the right amount of soft tannins suited to a year old.

The wine developed in Stainless steel tanks from October 2003 till May 2004.

Drinkable now but will further evolve till 2005 and will maintain positive character past 2007.

Merlot Primo, Kerem Ben-Zimra, Chillag 2002.

Aged 18 months in oak.

Dark red ruby color

The nose is still closed with ripe well-balanced mild fruits, vanilla and oak.

The mouth is dominated by toasted French oak with some plums and a spicy finish.

A good potential is expressed in this medium bodied well-structured wine.

Minutes later and the oak seems just about ready to overcome the fruits that are showing at this early stage due to lower acidity that marks 2002.

Drink 2005-2008.

Castelana, Chillag 2002.

70% Cabernet, 30% Merlot aged 18 month in new and older oak.

Dark intense Bordeaux color.

Constant and full bodied nose of ripe fruits namely raspberries and Cassis, tobacco and spice.

Very consistant in the mouth showing a good body mixed with plenty of oak and backed by enough acidity to keep the wine going for years.

The finish reflects a not yet developed wine with plenty of astringent flavors. Green oaky tannins dominate the finish.

Drink 2006-2010.

Cabernet Sauvignon Chillag 2002.

92% Cabernet Sauvignon + 8% Merlot.18 months in Allier oak.

Well-balanced with some ripe fruits, liquorices and dominant oak.

Ripe fruits develop in the mouth backed up by plenty of chewy tannins and a fairly good acidity.

Very good potential for this young and concentrated wine. Mature fresh plums mix with the still green tannins on the finish.

Drink 2005-2009.

The Chillag winery ranks amongst Israel’s best wineries and stands for the respect for land and fruit of the land paving but a mere stone on the road to Israeli Terroir.

[Andre]

The best is yet to come!

While everybody is still busy praising the 2003 vintage, a superior and massive 2004 is on the way.

The South is nearly done harvesting and while the wines are fermenting or setling, the North is just about done with the Merlot and the Cabernet will soon hit the boxes.

Thrilling in most cases and disapointing where self-centered winemakers are too busy with their theories to read the wine.

Over all - high yield, with grapes hitting 25-26 brix while the ph is 3.30 - Not accostomed to seing things like that in Israel.

There is much to be learned about vines and their ability to bud according to vintages.

[bloviatrix]

Can't wait to read your tasting notes on these!