Ben O'Donoghue is the chef at Atlantic

[Andy Lynes]

Ben O’Donoghue will be taking charge of the kitchen at The Atlantic Bar & Grill in its 10th year and shortly after will be travelling around the country promoting his new TV series entitled ‘Surfing the Menu’.

Previously head chef at the private members club Monte’s in Knightsbridge, UK, O’Donoghue worked in Jessica’s in Perth, Goodfella’s restaurant in Sydney (where with O’Donoghue as sous chef the restaurant won the Sydney Morning Herald’s Best New Restaurant plus two chefs hats, the Australian equivalent of the Michelin star), and the acclaimed Tribeca restaurant in Double Bay.

He then spent over 4 years at The River Café where he met Jamie Oliver, subsequently working with him as consultant and food stylist on TV shows, books, and overseas tours.

Of his plans for The Atlantic Bar & Grill O’Donoghue says: “Social interaction being fundamental to a great dining experience (and I will be making The Atlantic just such an experience), I will be looking to create a social vibe with the food, so lots of shared plates. I believe in cultural and geographical honesty. Honesty and integrity are words often bandied about, for me it means nurturing the natural qualities of ingredients with simple, strong cooking techniques and complimentary flavours. Natural form and flavour are the be all and end all for me”.

(Information courtesy of Sarah Canet of Gruppo).

[Andy Lynes]

Here's the new a la carte menu:

Carpaccio of octopus £7.50

Saffron pepper and potato

Roasted stuffed baby squid £7.50

Baby fennel and a raisin and pine nut dressing

Hot smoked salmon £8.00

Watercress mousse, shallots and Parmesan crips

Falmouth native rock oysters £12.00

Cucumber jelly and spiced tomato essense

Confit of swordfish a la nicoise £9.00

Atlantic chowder £12.50

Langoustine, mussels, clams, sea bass and pancetta

Salad of organic beetroot £6.50

Dill and fromage frais de chevre

Roasted porcini with pancetta £9.50

Thyme and rocket

Foie Gras terrine £11.00

Pickled red currant, toasted brioche

Joselito Gran Reserva Iberico ham £14.50

Black figs and bitter leaves

Chef recommends to share………

Wild mushroom risotto £9.50/£13.50

Spaghetti with prawns £8.50/£12.00

Organic zucchini and pepperoncini

Pappardelle with lemon £9.50/£13.00

Parmesan, basil and toasted pine nuts

Line caught sea bass £21.00

Baked in a bag with fennel, lemon, thyme and crème fraiche

Atlantic bouillabaisse £19.50

Garlic crostini and saffron rouille

Seared hand caught Scottish scallops £19.50

With zucchini noodles, basil, pine nuts, raisins and cauliflower puree

Grilled Yellow fin tuna £16.50

Frittata de tomate and cinnamon

Grilled shish of pigeon and pork belly confit £16.50

Braised chicoria, toasted seeds

Roast rump of lamb £16.50

Braised artichokes, caramelised garlic

Yorkshire grouse £21.00

With traditional dressing of gaufrette potatoes, grouse pate and bread sauce

Whole roasted English Stony White Chicken £30.00

Porcini and potato (For two)

Buccleuch beef comes from Angus, Galloway and Shorthorn cows from the Scottish Boarders. The beef is regarded as the highest quality produced, with the meat having a good layer of fat, good marbling and a deep red colour. All the cows are fed on a natural diet without additives and all are Scottish born.

Poached fillet of Buccleuch beef £22.50

Ravioli of foie gras

Grilled Buccleuch sirloin (11oz) £19.00

With watercress, home cut fries and béarnaise sauce

Grilled smoked Cote de boeuf £40.00

Creamed horseradish, dauphinois and French beans (For two)

SIDE ORDERS £3.50

Cauliflower cheese

Gratin Dauphinois

Spinach, creamed, steamed or sautéed

Green beans, braised, tomato, lemon and marjoram

Mash

Mixed leaf salad

Home cut fries

Sugar snaps

[Andy Lynes]

I was invited to lunch at the Atlantic recently and was struck by how lovely the room is. Now 10 years old, the place has aged gracefully and remains as glamourous a space as ever. It was also a rather empty space, but I was informed that they had only recently started serving lunch, that there had been a bit of a cock up on the PR front and very few people actually knew that it was open during the day.

So I can confirm that the Atlantic is now open for lunch and at £19.95 for three courses is pretty good value. The food had elements of Aussie fusion, Italian and classic French exemplified in part by Scallop "bon-bons" with wasabi mayonnaise to start, a really excellent loin of lamb with cous cous and a classic lemon tart.

The scallops were enourmous and wrapped in smoked salmon and then some finely shredded vegetation that I couldn't identify, and deep fried. The lamb was a lovely cut of meat and cooked to rosey perfection. the tart had the required citrus kick, but a less than crisp pastry shell. The large blob of cream it came with was a little unwelcome.

I was accompanied on this important bit of field research for eGullet.com by MobyP who I hope will give his side of the story.

[MobyP]

Yesiree - groundbreaking field research. If life and limb need be threated over a nice piece of lamb, I'm your fella.

The room is one of the great locations in central London, although I always feel (on the multiplicitous but sober two - or drunken three - occasions that I've been there) that I've fallen into take 218 of a Stanley Kubric film. It has that incredibly majestic but slightly haunted feel. Travel back to the New Year's party of1935 where jazz was jazz, men were penguins, women were ostriches, and Wilfrid the inconsequential doorman was about to chop up the coat-check girl with his axe (named Betsy).

Which is to say - even if you only go for a drink, you should definitely go. I bet Halloween was a hoot. Or hoot-ish. Or hoot-ly.

The lunch menu was quite restricted compared to the full a la carte (some of which looks pretty sexy). A few starters, a few mains. But all of the food - save the lemon tart - was certainly better than I expected. It was accomplished, if not majestic cooking. If I was in the area, and looking for a fairly decent meal, I'd go again.

The scallop 'bon bon' was perfectly cooked, and tasted really fresh. Andy generously avoids mentioning that he hates/dislikes/never-saw-the-point-of wasabi - possibly he blames it for the downfall in ship construction along the Tyne, I wouldn't hazard a guess - but it was light enough to add some zing to the scallop. And how much pressure can you put on a poor bit of horseradish?

I had a bowl of fresh taglietelle with lemon, pinenuts, basil - a recipe from Ben's River Café days (like the roasted porcini with pancetta, thyme). It was fairly good. (Basil off-setting the lemon, pasta cooked properly, etc - it's hard to wax mystical over a plate of pasta unless it waxes over you first).

For mains, a perfectly cooked piece of salmon. Crispy skinned, with a blush of darker pink in the centre. Surrounded by a really clean veloute, speckled with chives, peas, and baby broad beans (God knows where he found them at this time of year).

Deserts, cheeses - we were plied generously with them all. Apart from the lemon tart - which I think had been in the fridge for a while - it was well done.

As for the rest of the menu: Grilled shish of pigeon and pork belly confit, the Yorkshire grouse, and the whole roast chicken with porcini (for 2) are dishes I would return for. I think this is a guy who is trying to cook some thought-out food. He's not going for fireworks, but he obviously cares about ingredients. To a certain degree this might be incongrous to the setting, the ethos of the place. We shall see.

On the darker side - I would like to offer myself as an entirely corruptible partner for any further field research, consequential or no. My range of services is extensive, and I'm almost entirely likely to take your point of view.

Damnit, no stoop is too low.

[circeplum]

really nice report moby, thanks!

m

[Andy Lynes]

Andy generously avoids mentioning that he hates/dislikes/never-saw-the-point-of wasabi - possibly he blames it for the downfall in ship construction along the Tyne, I wouldn't hazard a guess

When I explain that the reason I have come to dislike the taste of Wasabi is because I was violently ill after a Japanese meal in Dublin and associate the flavour of wasabi (and pickled ginger come to that) with being "ill" at both ends as it were, you'll understand why I didn't let on to that fact during lunch.

I should point out that the illness was due to a virus and was nothing to do with the food (others who hadn't been to the restaurant that night sufferred from the same symptoms), however the association has been made in my mind. This happened about a year ago, so I think its going to be a while before I can face Sashimi again.

[MobyP]

I have come to dislike the taste of Wasabi because I was violently ill after a Japanese meal in Dublin

Aha. So, Mr Lynes, you admit that you don't blame wasabi for the downfall of ship-building along the Tyne?

Or is that a non-denial denial?

[Andy Lynes]

I have come to dislike the taste of Wasabi because I was violently ill after a Japanese meal in Dublin

Aha. So, Mr Lynes, you admit that you don't blame wasabi for the downfall of ship-building along the Tyne?

Or is that a non-denial denial?

I blame the Tories. For pretty much everything.

[Scott]

Damnit, no stoop is too low.

so the rumours are true!!

[MobyP]

[tomweir]

What Japanese restaurant in Dublin was this Andy? I am always hopeful that at some stage a decent one will land here...

[Andy Lynes]

I'll have to check the name, but it was a sort of noodle place near Temple Bar, very popular, noisey, quite a young crowd if that helps you identify it. I didn't particularly like it, but again must stress that the food had nothing to do with my illness.

[tomweir]

Yamamori... no great shakes.

You were pretty clear on the illness issue :o)

[Cusina]

um, wasabi issues aside.

Andy and Moby I loved your double review. Absolutely Great, thank you! I especially liked the "haunted mobster hangout" decor description. I'll be sure to put this place on my "must do" list. I am really anticipating a visit to London in April and already have a list a mile long of places to try, most of them thanks to your well done posts.

And Moby, such bravery! You crack me up

[Andy Lynes]

um, wasabi issues aside.

Yes, I'm sorry about that!

Feel free to start a thread with your proposed itinerary and we will be happy to rip it to shreds for you!

[Andy Lynes]

The Atlantic is planning a series of events to celebrate its tenth anniversary :

The Party

On Friday 23 April 2004, Oliver Peyton’s throwing a party for his friends and best customers. “I want it to be the perfect evening at The Atlantic; great cocktails, delicious food, lots of laughter and no small amount of decadence. I’ll be damned if I’m throwing a party for London’s rent-a-crowd. These are going to be my friends, dropping in for a glass of champagne and a bite to eat; old mates catching up; everyone hanging out to see what surprises I’ve got in store for them, and forgetting that they ever have to get up the next morning.” he explains.

The Atlantic’s Grayson Perry vase needs a new home

Commissioned not long after the Atlantic first opened a vase by this year’s Turner Prize winner depicting famous customers of the restaurant and valued at £20,000, will be given away in a year’s time to the photographer of the wittiest image taken at The Atlantic. The closing date for entries is 7th January 2005.

I’m in it for the long-haul

Every business day, from Saturday 24 April 2004 until the end of the year, Oliver Peyton will be giving away 10 bottles of Taittinger champagne to the first 10 tables to clock-up 3 hours in the bar or restaurant.

10th Anniversary Cognac

250 bottles of a special edition 10th Anniversary Bisquit cognac, with label and box designed by Mark Farrow will be given to The Atlantic’s most loyal customers.

“At Home”

Hosts of all parties of 10 or more will be given a box of Atlantic “At Home” cards to send to their guests. The mottled silver cards come with classic white, tissue-lined envelopes.

10th Anniversary Menu

Chef Ben O’Donoghue is creating a gourmet menu to run from 24 April until the end of the year. Comprising of 5 dishes, the menu will be priced at £55 per head. A gourmet wine menu, which includes 5 wines, will cost £75 per head.

More parties

Atlantic hosts Sheriden and Elton have scheduled more than two dozen nights special event nights including The Siren Suite presented by Mathew Glamour on the first Wednesday of every month; The Slick Wig Party; Sneaker Pimps; irreverent Pop Quizzes; and the burlesque shenanigans of The Whoopee Club.

(Details of all the public events will be posted on the website)

19-21 Great Portland Street,

London

W1R 5RQ

Telephone 020 7734 4888

Website

Opening Hours

Restaurant

6pm to 11.30pm Monday - Saturday

Main Bar

12pm to 3am Monday - Friday

5pm to 3am Saturday

Dick’s Bar

6pm to 3am Monday - Saturday

[Andy Lynes]

I like the sound of the pop quiz, anyone fancy getting an eGullet pop quiz team together?

[tony h]

yes but only if they are all on led zeppelin

[curlywurlyfi]

I like the sound of the pop quiz, anyone fancy getting an eGullet pop quiz team together?

an opportunity to show off my music nerdliness? bring it on!

Fi

[Scott]

I like the sound of the pop quiz, anyone fancy getting an eGullet pop quiz team together?

an opportunity to show off my music nerdliness? bring it on!

Fi

Fantastic!

I will be way cooler with my complete and utter ignorance on nearly anything they could ask!!!

I might need a PR agent afterwards

[food_dwarf]

So who took over the kitchen's at Monte's?

[Andy Lynes]

Not sure who is head chef at Montes now, sorry.

Ist quiz is on 17 february and we have a table of six reserved. I'll check all the details re price and what have you but I think its just a bash in one of the bars.

So we have BLH (?), Scott, Curlywurlyfi and me, anyone else?

[curlywurlyfi]

Not sure who is head chef at Montes now, sorry.

Ist quiz is on 17 february and we have a table of six reserved. I'll check all the details re price and what have you but I think its just a bash in one of the bars.

So we have BLH (?), Scott, Curlywurlyfi and me, anyone else?

oh no oh no - Andy, Scott, BLH - 17 Feb I am already promised to another. so sorry to disappoint the team...

Fi

[tony h]

sorry - i wasn't being serious - i know sod all about music

[Suzi Edwards]

i would LOVE to do this. but i don't think i can :-(

let me check and get back to you.

jack will probably be up for it. he knows a lot about music. mainly american hard rock. a subject i have managed to avoid for the longest time...