The Gambero Rosso Sweet 16

[Craig Camp]

Here are the top 16 restaurants in Italy according to the 2003 Gambero Rosso Ristorante d'Italia.

It is worth noting that Balzano has two on this list while Roma has only 1 and Milano 0 and the only one in Piemonte is now closed. Toscana leads the pack with 4 while Ancona, Terni and Napoli are the only ones holding up the pride of the south. Do you agree with these rankings? Please share your experiences with these restaurants.

95 - Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo (Livorno)

93 - Ambasciata, Quistello (Mantua)

93 - La Pergola dell'Hotel Cavalieri Hilton, Roma

92 - Vissani, fraz. Civitella del Lago, Baschi (Terni)

92 - Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull'Oglio (Mantua)

91 - Da Guido (closed)

91 - Don Alfonso 1890, Massa Lubrense (Napoli)

91 - Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna (Forli Cesena)

91 - La Stua de Michil, Corvara in Badia (Bolzano)

90 - Antica Osteria del Teatro, Piacenza

90 - La Madonnina, Senigallia (Ancona)

90 - Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze

90 - La Tenda Rossa, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, (Firenze)

90 - La Siriolo de l'Hotel Ciasa Salares, Badia (Bolzano)

90 - Il Desco, Verona

90 - Da Caino, Manciano (Grosetto)

[robert brown]

Craig, I have only dined at five of these restaurants including Guido. and am planning to hit another one in August. Gambero Rosso may be the best in Italy, but I would have serious reservations about many of the others. My gut feeling is that many on the list lack soul and are on the list for their fussy cuisine and relative opulence. Dal Pescatori (the only one of the three Michelin three-stars on the list, by the way) was too studied in its cuisine; in other words the food lack heart. I think the feeling is that Vissani doesn't impart authentic cuisine. I liked La Tenda Rossa a lot. Pinchiori I don't think was ever embraced by lovers of real Italian food. Guido was wonderful. Now that it has gone amoeba-like, we'll see. The Guido at the San Maurizio hotel had just opened when I was there and wasn't very good. Has the one at the Slow Food University opened yet? Vmilor is heading for Caino and am dying to know what he thinks. I'm going to try Il Desco in August and wlll report. The owner of Don Alfonso has already stated that he has lost interest in cooking and would rather be doing something else (I forget what).

[Joe H]

Two years ago Il Desco was an incredible disappointment although they did have an extremely impressive $30.00 dessert sampler. You should not miss Le Calandre which is approximately an hour away. It's chef is the youngest three star ever i believe.

[marcus]

In using the Gambero Rosso, you shouldn't look at the overall score, which includes decor, service, winelist and an arbitarary element, up to 5 points, for bonus. Adding together these various scores provides a meaningless result. The vast majority of their 90 point plus restaurants would not get 90 points without the bonus, just 2 or 3 as I recall. I focus only on the 60 points that they allocate for food. I find that although I don't always agree, the food scores are pretty accurate and quite valuable. Note that the 3 Michelin 3 star restaurants all get scores of 51 for food, versus 55 which is the highes score currently awarded.

[robert brown]

In August, Il Desco is the only high-profile restaurant open in the area of the Lago di Garda. You give me pause, however, which means that I will do some research and see if there is something more modest but honest. As for Marchesi in Erbusco, I'll never set foot in that place again.

[docsconz]

The owner of Don Alfonso has already stated that he has lost interest in cooking and would rather be doing something else (I forget what).

Do you know where this was said, or is it hearsay. When I was there in November Chef Iaccarino was away in Japan and the cooking was done by his son. he did a fine job and the food was most certainly not soul-less.

[Craig Camp]

My gut feeling is that many on the list lack soul and are on the list for their fussy cuisine and relative opulence.

I agree this is why these restaurants top this kind of rating. Enoteca Pinchiorri has always left me cold - from the first time I ate there in 1984 I have never understood its appeal. The wine list is, of course, a living legend. Il Desco is another one that has never warmed my heart although I will say that I have usually eaten there during Vinitaly madness. On the other hand I have had several wonderful experiences at Dal Pescatore and La Tenda Rossa and will greatly miss Da Guido. I will always have a warm spot for Da Guido because of a spectacular meal I had there in 1983 with Angelo Gaja who did not order one bottle of his own wine during the almost 5 hour dinner. Instead he ordered what he felt were the best wines of his neighbors. It was a great evening to say the least. One of my top meals in Italy was at La Tenda Rossa in 1999 with the (in?)famous Marty Tiersky. The wine list at La Tenda Rossa is loaded with great values if you look hard enough. I have not been back since then though.

I am very anxious to try both restaurants in Balzano and plan to be there during July.

[Jim Dixon]

The owner of Don Alfonso has already stated that he has lost interest in cooking and would rather be doing something else (I forget what).

Do you know where this was said, or is it hearsay. When I was there in November Chef Iaccarino was away in Japan and the cooking was done by his son. he did a fine job and the food was most certainly not soul-less. 

Alfonso Iaccarino has always been as interested in art (he's an accomplished painter) as he is food. His two grown sons have been assuming more responsibility at the restaurant, Mario in the dining room, Ernesto in the kitchen and cellar.

Jim

[malachi]

I've only eaten at a few of these restaurants, but I'll at least comment on them (for what it's worth).

Dal Pescatore - Personally I thought this was the best 'haute' meal I had in Italy. Wonderful food, very polished, inventive and with great execution.

Antica Osteria del Teatro - I had a very good meal here, though, to be honest, I was not overwhelmed. I felt as if it were honest tradescraft rather than art.

Enoteca Pinchiorri - I was not impressed. Gorgeous room, incredible wine list, over-priced and somewhat pedestrian food and often surly service.

La Tenda Rossa - This is a hard one for me. I've eaten here twice and both times I had incredible meals, but both times there were extenuating circumstances that may have coloured the experience (once, an important and memorable anniversary surprise and the other one of the best wines of my life).

[David Russell]

I'll add my two cents....

Il Desco: been there twice (both times during VINITALY), and both times was underwhelmed for the amount of money spent. Moreover, the room is not very well ventilated for non-smokers.

Il Pescatore: very good, and even worth the detour. But three stars? I don't think so.

Da Guido: Simply one of the finest restaurants on the planet. If only one of two new places resulting from its closing even comes close to the original, I'll be a happy camper.

[mogsob]

These are not the restaurants that define Italian cuisine. Worthless list.

[Craig Camp]

These are not the restaurants that define Italian cuisine.  Worthless list.

This is a rating of Italian restaurants, made by Italians and used by Italians. While I would agree the best of Italian eating is missed by only eating in such places they cannot be ignored. They are certainly not ingored by the Italian press.

Da Guido was always a wonderful Italian restaurant as La Tenda Rossa is still a wonderful Italian restaurant.

[Peter Rodgers]

95 - Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo (Livorno)

93 - Ambasciata, Quistello (Mantua)

93 - La Pergola dell'Hotel Cavalieri Hilton, Roma

92 - Vissani, fraz. Civitella del Lago, Baschi (Terni)

92 - Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull'Oglio (Mantua)

91 - Da Guido (closed)

91 - Don Alfonso 1890, Massa Lubrense (Napoli)

91 - Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna (Forli Cesena)

91 - La Stua de Michil, Corvara in Badia (Bolzano)

90 - Antica Osteria del Teatro, Piacenza

90 - La Madonnina, Senigallia (Ancona)

90 - Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze

90 - La Tenda Rossa, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, (Firenze)

90 - La Siriolo de l'Hotel Ciasa Salares, Badia (Bolzano)

90 - Il Desco, Verona

90 - Da Caino, Manciano (Grosetto)

I agree with the earlier comment that the best way to use this guide is to ignore everything but the food ratings. Also, if you look only at the food ratings, you can readily identify other, usually more humble places, that have great kitchens.

One meal at Gambero Rosso showed us why it gets a high rating for creativity, but on the whole the food left me cold (and hungry, given the miniscule size of the portions). It is terribly hard to get to and in my opinion not worth the detour. Vissani is a pretentious place that can't decide whether it is French or Italian. Again, I'd pass. We had one dinner at Dal Pescatore. A nice meal, but I felt like they were far more interested in the rich businessmen from Milano seated all around us. I would not go back.

As per other comments, we will miss Da Guido. I once detoured on a trip to Singapore just to eat there. But I am hopeful that Piero and his brother will bring us excitement in their new place near Alba. By the way does anyone know if it has opened yet. We have had many meals at Don Alfonso. They have never missed, especially when the best vegetables are coming from their garden. I still day dream about a appetiser in which they prepare eggplant three ways, one better than the other.

[Bill Klapp]

In answer to Robert's question, still no Guido II in Pollenzo (where the Slow food University will be), and I couldn't track down Piero Alciati to find out the schedule. Let me chime in on Pinchiorri-so much money, so little food, even less inspiration in a beautiful but sterile environment. The sweet 16 clearly does not reflect what is really going on in Italy, which seems to be a generational passing of the baton to a younger generation that is at once inventive and driven to succeed. My best meals in the Piemonte this trip were had at Trattoria della Posta in Monforte d' Alba, for instance. No Michelin star (yet-I predict that it is only a matter of time), but a kitchen that appears to be on illegal growth hormones!

[Pongi]

I'm very surprised to see those two Alto Adige restaurants, La Siriola and La Stua de Michil, included in that list. I must admit that, although I have a holiday home near Bolzano, I've never been there, but this is due to the fact that, according to the Guida de L'Espresso I generally go with, they share a medium score with other 10-12 restaurants in the area. According to L'Espresso, there are no top restaurants in Alto Adige, being the best one "Zur Rose" in Appiano - which is, in my opinion, a good but not unforgetable place.

So, if Craig or someone else is planning to try those two places, I would be glad to know something about them as I'll be in Alto Adige the last week of July

Pongi

[Nikolaus]

95 - Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo (Livorno): YES, this is fish!

93 - Ambasciata, Quistello (Mantua): YES, this is a family and an ambience!

93 - La Pergola dell'Hotel Cavalieri Hilton, Roma: YES, definitely

92 - Vissani, fraz. Civitella del Lago, Baschi (Terni) YES, this is culture and technique! Of course, one has to know what it is about and who the guy is. But it is hard to find more soul and inventiveness in a kitchen, with no concessions at all to economies.

92 - Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull'Oglio (Mantua), yes this is high tradition and accuracy! The proof that cutting edge creativity is not necessary if one sticks to tradition with perfection

91 - Da Guido (closed): what an immense pity!

91 - Don Alfonso 1890, Massa Lubrense (Napoli): yes, although to a certain extent criticized. But this is because it is a very "human" place, and humans cannot be perfect

91 - Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna (Forli Cesena): never been

91 - La Stua de Michil, Corvara in Badia (Bolzano): never been

90 - Antica Osteria del Teatro, Piacenza: never been, but some say it is cold and overrated

90 - La Madonnina, Senigallia (Ancona): YES, innovating and courageous, a young chef with lots of constructive ideas

90 - Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze: NO, cold, stiff, posh, touristic, overpriced and overrated (is of course a completely personal opinion)

90 - La Tenda Rossa, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, (Firenze): NO, it does just not fit into Tuscany and is a little bit too elaborated and complicated

90 - La Siriolo de l'Hotel Ciasa Salares, Badia (Bolzano): YES, but not really the top; if there, go also for "St Hubertus" in the Rosa Alpina Hotel in San Cassiano, steps away. This is a great one indeed!

90 - Il Desco, Verona: NO, to a certain extent cold and inconsistent, not unforgettable (again, personal opinion)

90 - Da Caino, Manciano (Grosetto): YES, although it recently made to many concessions to international preparations and presentation, thereby shifting away from their marvellous territory cooking and recipes, what made them famous (and this was deserved indeed!).

The problem with Italian top cuisine is that, with few exceptions which keep an own character (Ambasciata mentioned above is a master example), the places start to resemble too much one to each other, and this as to setting, decor, potteries, and even cooking style.

Places as Caino (mentioned above) or Agata e Romeo in Rome, become famous for local and regional recipes made to perfection (and, why not, with a certain degree of fantasy and originality), are on their way to become "just creative" in order to please the growing international crowd which represents their main clientele. This is a pity. Once I saw the exactly same dish in two restaurants, hundreds of miles distant from each other! And I find it useless to have even the best French Foie gras with Peaches in the middle of Tuscany. All this, together with uniform and soulless bright decors, is something that makes me feel really sad. Anyone an opinion on this?

[peterpumkino]

And I find it useless to have even the best French Foie gras with Peaches in the middle of Tuscany. All this, together with uniform and soulless bright decors, is something that makes me feel really sad. Anyone an opinion on this?

Nice post. I, for one, have tried my best NOT to eat in this kind of 'famous' restaurant as it is NOT RealItalian®. The few of the Michelin's that I have eaten in (i.e. Abbietegrasso, Enoteca, Erbusco, Gran San Bernardo, etc etc) are not Italian restaurants at all and your comments about eating Foie Gras in Tuscany is right on. Where is Steve Plotnicki when you really need him - he'd argue that we are ALL wrong!

I much preferred Peter Rodger's list on the best food much more apropos and I feel we should concentrate on this list rather than the 'main'.

Any comments on Peter's list?

[Craig Camp]

How does Il Desco remain so highly rated? I have never heard one vote in support of the restaurant from anyone on this board or any other by someone who has eaten there.

[Craig Camp]

The problem with Italian top cuisine is that, with few exceptions which keep an own character (Ambasciata mentioned above is a master example), the places start to resemble too much one to each other, and this as to setting, decor, potteries, and even cooking style.

This is a sad truth. Can it be they are concentrated on creating a style and ambiance that will impress Michelin and the Gambero Rosso reviewers at the expense of local cuisine and tastes?

[Nikolaus]

To Craig: of course it could be. But this would cause me serious doubts concerning both palate AND intelligence of the Italian inspectors. ALso because such a globalization does not ocur, e.g., in France. And it can't be just a matter of restauration culture.

To pp: I did not quite get the difference between Pter R.'s list and the main?

[Pongi]

I agree with Nikolaus on many points...especially on Caino. I've been there a number of times since I was a young girl, because my mom used to spend a couple of weeks every year at the Terme di Saturnia. It was, at those times, a traditional restaurant...with a special touch, however. A place where you could have things like roasted porcupine (delicious!) and Fragolino wine! The chef still was the mythical Angelona who made the restaurant renowned everywhere in Italy (but not yet abroad...)

In the course of time, I've seen Caino getting more and more sophisticated as for food, decor, and prices. I still enjoy a meal there, but I could easily forget to be in Tuscany, and that unforgetable flavour is almost lost now.

Just a pity!

Pongi

[peterpumkino]

To pp: I did not quite get the difference between Pter R.'s list and the main?

Made you look!

I'm sorry I thought that it was Peter's list that showed the to ten by food only rather than for food, ambiance etc. I didn't actually look at his list. I must be going a bit barmy. Sorry. But it would be nice if we saw such a list (i.e. top ten or fifteen by food only).

[marcus]

By food only, with a maximum possible score of 60:

55 Gambero Rosso

Vissani

53 Ambasciata

La Madonnina del Pescatore

52 Antica Osteria del Teatro

Al Bersagliere

Da Caino

Il Desco

Don Alfonso 1890

Guido (now closed)

Aimo e Nadia

Paolo Teverini

La Pergola

La Tenda Rossa

La Torre del Saracino

There are 23 restaurants that receive 51 including the 3 Michelin 3 stars

[paulbrussel]

I don't travel a lot to Italy, but I have been twice to La Pergola this year. The second time I was even more impressed then the first. Modern, original with Italian touch. Excellent wine list and one of the best service I have ever seen.

[peterpumkino]

By food only, with a maximum possible score of 60:

Thanks Marcos, very interesting but not definitive I'm sure!