TDG: Desperate Measures: Cornbread Wars

[JAZ]

I always thought the difference between Southern and "Yankee" cornbread was that the former was crumbly (the better to mix with greens) and the latter was cakey. Is this true?

[jhlurie]

I always thought the difference between Southern and "Yankee" cornbread was that the former was crumbly (the better to mix with greens) and the latter was cakey. Is this true?

(See above) That's mainly my understanding too. The color of the flour is irrelevent, certainly. But the other thing is the sugar content.

And chili as well as greens. I mean how the heck can ANYONE eat chili with "chewy" cornbread is beyond me.

I do think we are using the word "cakey" differently though. To me the opposition is between crumbly and chewy, but the crumbly is more "cakey" than the chewy kind while its intact.

Edited May 7, 2003 by jhlurie (log)

[Louisa Chu]

Living in the land of baguette-eaters I really miss good cornbread. One of my favourites back in the States is at Wishbone in Chicago. And of course Yankee cornbread can be a whole meal - just eat a whole batch and don't go giving it all away.

I didn't realize that it was a southern tradition to mash and eat your cornbread and greens together. What are the common greens to eat these days? Is it really kale? With curry??

Thanks.

[mamster]

I'm sure kale is a traditional part of your complete Southern green pantheon (along with collards, turnip greens, and so on). I'm equally sure that curry powder is not. Sure is good, though.

[Louisa Chu]

Sounds really good. I love kale. Thanks for the recipe. Can't wait to try it.

And you never know about spices especially in ethnic melange cultures - like Louisiana. I was surprised to learn how much saffron and curry they use in some southern French regions - from the ancient sailing routes.

[laurenmilan]

I think you'll find southern cornbread only in the homes of curious northerners these days ;-)

I make a skillet cornbread using basically the same kind of recipe you listed (the "southern" one) and it comes out just great, but yes, a lot of my guests have no clue that's how cornbread is originally supposed to look.

I guess it's no surprise that it seems like as well-meaning americans experiment with other regions' cuisines, we are beseiged by a tidal wave of food options that drown our own regions' individuality (what the hell IS new york/New jersey regional cuisine anyway - unless you count the local ethnicities' dishes).

Cornbread's gotta be the one thing that's SWEETER in the North than it is in the South, though...

Edited May 12, 2003 by laurenmilan (log)

[ruthcooks]

In Nashville, most cornbread is made with white cornmeal, contains little or no sugar, and is usually baked as muffins. If you should happen to run across "corn light bread," however, it is baked in a loaf pan and contains more sugar than any Yankee would dream of using. It's served with pulled pork barbeque and there's nothing light about it. Someone told me that "light" refers to the cornbread being made with eggs and it's also called "egg bread." I've seen a recipe for "Creamed Chicken with Egg Bread."

On the other hand, my Yankee grandmother made her cornbread from cornmeal, sour milk, drippings, salt and baking soda. She baked it thin in a large metal pan and my grandfather mushed the leftovers in a glass of milk. Of course, he was from Southern Illinois.

[KNorthrup]

Has anyone seen/tried this? Not clear whether he made it up.

article/review

recipe - popcorn flour

subsequent recipe - popcorn bread

47 total cornbread recipes in the book. Presumably most more traditional than this one. He apparently doesn't feel there is an authentic version.

(I was going to make this a new thread but this was a great TDG article and a useful discussion.)