Long weekend in Philly

[mrbigjas]

yup, what she said.

Yeah, likewise.

(posting from Seattle--you guys ever been? I'm about to go check out the forums on this city; I hear there's great korean food here, among all the other stuff it's known for.)

[tommy]

Bonk’s

We arrived in philly looking for crabs. Our plan was to get down there in time for lunch, and we pulled in at about 12.30. we found bonk’s, and after building up the nerve to go in, we walked through the door of this shot ‘n beer joint. It was dark, and a fellow was sat on a bar stool. He said “hi”, and I asked if he worked there. He said “sure do”. I asked if they were serving crabs, and he said “sure are, come on back and I’ll set you up.” At this point, he walked to the back “dining” room and turned on the lights. We, I suppose, were the first to arrive that day.

Having never ordered crabs, I asked the fellow what/how/why, etc. He explained that they had 3 sizes. 6.50, 4.50, and 2.50. I had no idea what that meant (it’s price, as we found out), I asked how many 6.50’s I might order. After checking out my girth, he said “a guy your size? You’re good for 6”. Mrs. Tommy’s rating was 2 6.50’s. now, I know I’m not 3 times the size of mrs. Tommy, so I’m not sure how accurate this man’s estimation was.

At any rate, 2 minutes later, and barely enough time to suck down my first bud long neck, a big ol’ bowl of crabs show up. We ask for the spicy sauce, which I suppose is what they’re cooked in. good for dippin, as it turns out. These were cold crabs. He said that they’re usually cold, and only a bit warm if they just cook ‘em. These were cooked last night. That didn’t matter, they were good, and fun. But not cheap. Our quick stop for lunch was about 65 before tip.

Django

The place was packed and the sound level deafening. It certainly appeared that this was a “hot spot.” the restaurant looked like it could have been comfortable in any number of hip cities across the country. Exposed brick, prints through out, a pleasant buzz about it, etc.

Freshly baked bread was served in still-hot ceramic flower pots. This bread was a standout. Just sweet enough, soft, and delicious. Unfortunately, I ate the whole “pot”, which threw off my appetite for the rest of the meal. But it was worth it..

It was clear when the appetizers arrived that the chef was fond of fresh ingredients, and especially herbs. Fresh herbs popped out of both dishes. The first was a celery bisque. This bisque was visually striking: white broth, white celery noodle (with a tint of green), and droplets of herb-infused oil about. This dish was just fantastic. Slightly tart, slightly sweet, and rich-tasting without being gloppy. Mrs. Tommy had a goat cheese gnocchi, served in a bit of butter sauce, with tarragon and a mix of other herbs. The gnocchi were beautiful. Soft, light, delicate, and with just enough cheese flavor. Another winner. At this point, mrs. Tommy wondered who had ordered better. It was a dead heat.

The entrees were a bit disappointing. Perhaps this is due to the huge build-up.

I ordered a cod dish. The cod was cooked perfectly, and seasoned with a spice mixture. However, something wasn’t working. The flavors didn’t marry well. Or perhaps they could, but for some reason didn’t. a perfectly acceptable dish, however. The dish, overall, was lacking in flavor (with no help from the cod of course). Mrs. Tommy ordered the bacon wrapped strip steak. I normally wouldn’t allow anyone to order steak anywhere but a steakhouse, but I made the exception, as the dish sounded pretty good. And it was. I have to question in the cut was actually strip, though. It sure did look, feel, and taste like tenderloin. The bacon wasn’t overpowering or soggy, or even wrapped. It was basically served on the side of the thinly sliced “strip” (although I’m sure the meat was wrapped at some point). The reduction was rich and deep, and by the time the dish was done, the risotto had sopped up some of that reduction, and all was good in the world.

Oddly enough, I think we ordered dessert, but I don’t remember it. Perhaps it’ll come to me.

The bill was 65 bucks before tip. Certainly a great deal. (BYO)

The Italian Market

Great fun. I especially liked the cheese stores. Walking into Di Bruno’s is like walking into heaven. The smell of cheese was so thick you could cut it with a cheese knife. Wow. Hey, we’ve got cheese shops here in NJ and NYC as well, but I really don’t get into them very often. We walked around for a bit and had to leave, as it was making us too hungry.

I had to get a cheesesteak, so we headed down to Pat’s and Genos. I looked at both, and thought “hmmm, genos looks ‘friendlier’”. But we figured we’d go to Pat’s anyway. I nervously practiced my order on line, just like the sign says. “wit, whiz, wit, whiz” I whispered to myself. I stepped up to the counter, and before I knew it, there was a cheesesteak in front of me. Kinda like losing ones virginity I would think.

It was a good cheesesteak. But I think the experience is the most important issue here. I mean, ok, the roll was right on, and the whiz was whiz, but I didn’t hear angels or anything.

Striped Bass

The room is absolutely beautiful. Billion foot ceilings, give or take, in an old bank. Open kitchen. Hoppin’ bar. Wow. Great vibe.

Ms. Loeb was kind enough to say that we were “friends” (even though I had just met her), and introduced us to the sommelier, Jason, and some others. The staff was cordial and efficient. After I put the server through some hell during ordering (I couldn’t decide what I wanted, and if I wanted three courses rather than two, etc, etc), he deferred to the sommelier when I started in with the wine. Jason recommended a sparkler to start, and a white from Provence for the rest of the meal.

Started with oysters. I forget what kind they were, but they were fresh and right on.

Moved on to share a corn and morel soup of some sort. I forget how it read on the menu, but it was green and served with a corn concoction in the middle. A soup that you had to chew. I loved it.

Mrs. Tommy had a roasted lobster, served out of its shell. I forget the preparation, but I recall artichokes, which turned out to be a great match. I had a crispy black bass (I think it was black bass). As promised, the skin was crispy. Again, I forget the specifics of this dish.

We skipped dessert, as we were both falling asleep (although that didn’t stop Katie and Herb from dragging us to the bar at le bec fin, much to their chagrin no doubt).

My one complaint is that the place is too dark. I’m a handsome young man with perfect vision, and even I had a hard time reading the menu. The older couple next to us were sharing reading glasses and tilting the menu towards any light source they could fine. Aside from the obvious obstacles of reading, I found that I really couldn’t see the food very well. In fact, I thought the soup was “green” and mrs. Tommy thought it was “brownish.” That’s just a shame.

I forget the total, which worries me because I can’t find my receipt (did I pay!?!?), but I think it was about 140 before tip.

Reading Terminal Market

I was hoping for a lot more samples. Oh well. Got myself one of those pork sandwiches with greens and provolone, just like you all said. Hey, that’s a good sandwich. Roasted pork, greens with olive oil and garlic, aged provolone. A great roll. You could deconstruct that sandwich and have a dish worthy of any restaurant.

My one complaint is the greens had too much oil. It was a sloppy sandwich, and I think the oil overpowered the cheese.

Got a pretzel and headed out, after about 1 hour of aimlessly floating around.

Morimoto

What a fun room. After devouring the TVFN special on the opening of this place, I felt as though I’d been there before. We were seated in a side “booth”. The tables were so roomy, and the seats so comfortable, it made me think twice about returning to NYC. In fact, all of the places in philly seemed very generous in their spacing btwn tables. A different world for sure.

At any rate, we opted for the omakase, of course.

Tuna (toro) tartare in ponzu with freshly grated wasabi.

Oysters

White fish over greens with an acidic dressing

Another light fish sashimi dish with some great infused oil

Kobe beef over some sort of Japanese sweet potato

Sushi

Chocolate cake

I saw no sign of “upselling.” In fact, when presented with the menus, the server merely stated that wines by the glass and specialty drinks were on the first page of the menu. That was it. Although, we did end up ordering some sake, even though I proclaimed “no sake” to the server. However, this was due in part to her bringing out a bit of “dessert sake” for us to sample, after we discussed sakes and wines for a while (she was very eager to discuss wine and sake, and made it clear that she loves it when customers are into wines). This sake was sweet and smooth. Fortified with plum. Wow. Like nothing I’ve ever had. We also tried another sake (they are specially made for the restaurant), and it was certainly the best sake I’d ever had (read: palatable). Although, I probably wouldn’t order it again, even at Morimoto.

The bill was about 450 before tip.

all in all, even though the weather was less-than-perfect, we had a great time in philly. thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. we'll certainly be back.

And what’s with the water in Philly? You gotta be kiddin me.

Edited May 11, 2003 by tommy (log)

[mrbigjas]

And what’s with the water in Philly?  You gotta be kiddin me. 

I've noticed, actually, that this spring it tastes worse than it usually does. I been swilling philly water straight out of the tap without ice for years, but this spring for some reason it suddenly started tasting more like ass than usual--I'm currently deciding between a water purifier and getting onea them spring water things.

[Cleo]

My husband and I are planning to go to Morimoto over Memorial Day weekend. We live in Manhattan and have been to Nobu several times, so we are looking forward to visiting Morimoto. The only thing is that I couldn't get a reservation for Saturday night at a decent time. I got a reservation for Sunday night, but I'm wondering if it is a bad idea to go there on a Sunday night. Any thoughts on that?

Also, can anyone recommend a good hotel? I guess in the $150 per night range. I came up with a $149 room rate at the Sofitel. Is it nice? Good location? I stayed at a Sofitel in Athens and it was amazing so I'm curious about the one in Philidelphia.

Thanks in advance!

[tommy]

i suppose others are better able to comment, but i'll say that the sofitel seems to be in a good location for visitors. right off of rittenhouse square. lots of stuff is walkable from there.

it suddenly started tasting more like ass than usual

a perfect description indeed.

[Andrew Fenton]

Oddly enough, I think we ordered dessert, but I don?t remember it.  Perhaps it?ll come to me.

No cheese plate? Tut tut.

[jpr54_]

I enjoy the Restaurant school-

and dining in Manyunck(spelling)

JPR

[chowfun]

Was that $450 for dinner for two at Morimoto, Tommy? Yowza!

[Holly Moore]

Ah, the Restaurant at the Restaurant School. One of Philadelphia's hidden treasures. And a fun meal if you go there ready to roll with the punchs as the students figure things out. And where you'll often be surprised when everything goes perfectly and you end up with a great meal, great service at a great price.

The Bakery at the Restaurant School is well worth a shot too.

[tommy]

Was that $450 for dinner for two at Morimoto, Tommy?  Yowza!

we chose $120 omakase. one could get out for much less money. it was a nice experience, however, and i look forward to returning.