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TRIO QUESTIONS


chefg

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Thomas assumes solo diners are there to dine. Alot of people frequent high end restaurants. Some are there because their dinning partner wanted to go, some because it is the "in place", some because it adds a level of prestige, and others because they like to dine. If you go alone chances are you are in to it. From a chef's perspective there is no one I would rather cook for. Not all vips get the same menu, depends on your vip-ness.

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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The first time I went to French Laundry was by myself. I got there at 12:00 and left at 5:30 as the first diners were arriving for dinner.

At staff meetings before service, the VIP menus are discussed.

Thank you chefg for your responses, commitment and passion.

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7. Molecular Gastronomy  Do you have a view on the value of the "molecular gastronomy" school of thinking, including how it may interact with the solid/liquid/vapour/other state of food products?

As food evolves and becomes more creative the need for a better understanding of foodstuffs will become necessary for cooks to manipulate ingredients further. Trio finds this approach to food very exciting, as it opens many new doors to not only the way we cook but the way the guest eats. This movement, in combination with the highly creative movement, will redefine high level dinning in the years to come. New techinques will be born and food will become more thought provoking and entertaining. The days of putting a piece of protein in a hot pan are almost over. Observent cooks will continue to incorporate tools and techniques from other professions into the cooking arena. Some examples include the isi foamer, liquid misters, paco jet, wine press, centerfuige, bag cookery(sous-vide), nitrous freezing the list goes on. It will continue to make dinning exciting, both for the cook and the guest.

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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chefg --

7a. Have you reviewed the writings of Herve This, H McGee (spelling)? I recently noticed that This has a surprising number of published small books in French.

7b. Could you describe how the centrifuge might be utilized at Trio, and how prevalent the use of this device might be at other restaurants? How are ingredients loaded onto a centrifuge, and has Chef Achatz considered the effects of loading products at different temperatures into the centrifuge (understanding that only certain states can be loaded in)?

7c. What savory, non-ice-cream dishes might the Pacojet be utilized for at Trio?

7d. Have you eaten at restaurants of chefs that subscribe to molecular gastronomy (e.g., Gagnaire, Blumenthal)?

Edited by cabrales (log)
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8. Follow-Up on Food States Question  Could you discuss whether you see the element of surprise to a diner from receiving a food product in an unanticipated state to be itself a positive effect?  How do you see surprise as interacting with taste memory, given that familiar flavors can also evoke taste memory?

Have you considered playing with temperatures that are unnatural for a given food state? In other words, a food state, while it generally has a related temperature when ice or vapour is involved, could surprise if that temperature were tampered with, for example.

Absolutely. The element of surprize can be an incredible tool in a chef's kit, but you run the risk of failing, which makes you look quite silly. Surprize comes in many different forms. Not knowing which you are specifically asking about I will go through a few. At Trio nearly all the food has some surprize value due to the fact that you won't find a dish on the menu that you have seen elsewhere. There is surprize in unique combinations such as bittersweet chocolate and Nicoise olives, actually hidding an ingredient or a large consentration of an ingredient in a dish to be discovered by a diner, like a sliver of raw ginger in the "oysters and beer", as when a diner sees "pizza" on the menu only to be confronted with a stamp size piece of "paper", to see flavors that are familar presented in an unusual manner like the rootbeer of beef short ribs, to begin consuming a beverage and feel it drastically change temperature as they drink, the sudden release of liquid in the liquid black truffle explosion and so on...... All of these are examples of surprizes that I feel add drama, entertainment, creativity, and in somecases flavor enhancement to a meal. It is a strong technique in the highly creatives' seperation from their peers.

A chef once wanted to make hot ice cream. It can't be done. Although the effect would be amazing. Less dramatic examples are used at Trio all the time. To freeze something that is normally hot or heat something that is normally frozen is easy, but what are you left with? Hot chocolate =chocolate sorbet, the difficulty comes in when the original and the manipulated are identical. This is easy .."Dry Martini" What do you visualize? It's in a Martini glass, it tastes like a martini, but you chew it. It is not liquid at all. But how does Trio make you drink something without the sensation of wetness? Is it possible? Not yet.

Edited by chefg (log)

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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For reasons of personal geography I suppose, the Heartland is not one of the groups I usually read on days when traffic is heavy and in truth, eGullet is becoming too much for anyone to consume it all. It may be time for a Michelin Guide to eGullet listing the three star posts that are worth the voyage. Chefg, I think very highly of many of our members' contributions, but I must thank you for your major contribution towards raising the level of dialogue here. My regrets are only that I've come late to this thread and that I don't live near Chicago. All I can say is that my midwestern relatives are probably a closer to a visit than they were yesterday.

I'm also pleased that you consider our members worthy of this remarkable thread. I am more than a little aware of the demands on time and energy your profession takes and it's clear you spend a lot of time thinking as well. I was not even going to complain about the caps, but I'm glad you've made your posts as easy to read as they are worth reading. Thanks and welcome to eGullet.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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9. Produce Sourcing Could you discuss Chef Achatz's views, if you are aware of them, on the utilization of local produce? Please mention what types of produce would be considered local for purposes of your response.

How does the sourcing question relate to Trio's "global influences"?

Produce is purchased on a quality and availibility basis. Trio has found that not all "local" produce is better than other sources and sometimes it is impossible due to our geographic locationto source the foodstuffs we want locally. It is difficult to find fresh hearts of palm in Il. At any given time 50-85%of our produce comes from a organic coop in Madison, Wis. Our contact has relationships with a group of farmers in the area. He compiles a list twice a week on the products available and drives them to Chicago twice a week. The products are wonderful, the freshness is amazing. Besides the quality of the vegetables Trio feels good supporting local farms that take the integral approach to their craft. Before the season starts the group talks to the chefs and discusses products that they would like to use. So such oddities as skirret, and many other "wild crafted" items such as cattails, wild watercress, morels, acorns, and so on become available. Trio also works closely with a local spice purveyor that works hard to find the chef's unusual requests such as kola nuts, long peppercorns, sasafrass root, mallow root, licorice root, fresh eucalypus leaves and so on. As far as what is local, currently we are using celeriac, burdock root, rutebega, beets, turnips, potatoes, parsley root, sunchokes, cronses, radishes, and organic eggs. Trio is not a "locally only" restaurant like some other restaurant in the Chicago area. Some of the more "global ingredients" Trio utilizes are : fresh Hawaiian hearts of palm, fresh curry leaves, Mayhaw Berries, tosaka seaweed, yuzu, paw paws, sunchokes, cronses, black truffles, limequats,anisse hysopp, galangal, cardoons, buddas hand, the list goes on but for whatever reason they are slipping my mind.

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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New techinques will be born and food will become more thought provoking and entertaining. The days of putting a piece of protein in a hot pan are almost over. Observent cooks will continue to incorporate tools and techniques from other professions into the cooking arena. Some examples include the isi foamer, liquid misters, paco jet, wine press, centerfuige, bag cookery(sous-vide), nitrous freezing the list goes on. It will continue to make dinning exciting, both for the cook and the guest.

ChefG - I can't tell you the thread it is in, but there is a debate on this board about whether the cooking at El Bulli (and that name is used as a generic example) is going to be lasting, or is it a flash in the pan. And I will pose the question we asked there to you. Granted (excuse the pun) the cooking tools and techniques chefs impose on ingredients will be revolutionary, and granted that it will continue to make dinner exciting for the cook and the guest, but where is the identifiable cuisine that people will speak of? For example, I ate at Trio in November and had a terrific meal. But I am hard pressed to communicate that meal to others unless I go into detailed descriptions of each dish. I never had that problem eating at 3 star restaurants in France. Each one, is identifiable by the region they reside in. Even the ones in Paris, aside from Pierre Gagnaire and Lucas-Carton, are usually heavily influenced by the chef's native region. Even in this country, The French Laundry is described as "whimsical" because the dishes mimic classic American concepts like Coffee and Donuts etc. So how are we going to describe this new cuisine you are talking about other then "modern and inventive?"

There is another aspect to this as well. If I wanted to be cynical about it, if the new cooking techniques you describe had such a tremendous positive impact on flavor, why the need for unusual pairings? What about using a paco jet or mister has caused chefs to shuffle the flavor deck? Why isn't just enhancing the flavor you used to get with more traditional cooking methods, plus the improved texture you get from the new cooking technique, enough? To simplify this question, if a new cooking technique makes for a steak that tastes better, why for example does a chef need to pair it with date puree? And to simplify it even more, it seemed that traditionally chefs tried to make combinations that were intended to last. But I don't see that happening as much anymore. Today the modern chefs seem to be in a free-for-all where the main goal is to surprise. Do you really think that dining will be become almost exclusively about what the chef does? And can that genre of cooking style last if a indentifiable cuisine doesn't spring out of it?

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chefg -- Thanks for your continuing responses. :wink:

9a. Cost Aspects of Sourcing While Trio's collaboration with local producers is commendable, there could be cost considerations to such sourcing and to the searching out of more unusual ingredients utilized by Chef Achatz. Could you discuss how mindful the chef is of the cost of ingredients, including at the stage of conceptualization of a dish? For example, have there been recipes that are appealing, but that are too expensive to execute on a regular basis?

9b. Cheese Apologies for not having information on Trio's cheese plate, due to not yet having dined there. However, to what extent is cheese served at the restaurant sourced locally? A similar question, with respect to US cheese?

9c. My Favorite Ingredient -- Eggs When you have a chance, could you discuss your views on the fatty/texture aspects of egg yolks and how that can be utilized in non-dessert dishes? You mentioned that you utilize locally-produced eggs -- could you describe their particular characteristics?

Do you recall appealing non-dessert, non-breakfast egg dishes you have sampled at other restaurants?

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Further inquiries for chefg:

10. Preferred Dish What is the dish on the Trio menu that you believe is the most delicious?  Is that the same dish of which you are most proud, from a culinary technique perspective? 

By far the toughest question yet, but at least it was broken into two parts which is very important. Braised Prime Beef Short Ribs rootbeer flavors gets my vote for the "most delicious" It's winter in the midwest, you have a lucious, rich, flavorful braise of fatty beef. That is tasty. What seperates it from other restaurants short rib dishes, I feel, is the concept of rootbeer flavors. When you anlylize old fashioned rootbeer you find it's componets very easily decontructed and remarkably well siuted to a dark, rich, meat. Burdock root, fennel bulb and seed, prunes, mollassas, star anise, sasafrass, vanilla, and black pepper. It produces a highly arromatic dish with layers of flavor.

The small dishes that Trio produces tend to be my favorites. It is easier to be creative with smaller bites than with the more substantial courses. Tart apple-olive oil, dry shot, pizza, spice water, watermelon-smoked paprika ice, black truffle explosion are some that fall into most proud category, although their technique is not so complex. They are products of our environment, and awareness of it, that brought them to life. Techniques that Trio utilizes well, that produce complex results are dehydration, sous-vide cookery, gelatin work, sugar work, foams, to name a few.

I feel strongly about the Osetra Caviar kola nut ice dish.

Edited by chefg (log)

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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ChefG - I can't tell you the thread it is in, but there is a debate on this board about whether the cooking at El Bulli (and that name is used as a generic example) is going to be lasting, or is it a flash in the pan. And I will pose the question we asked there to you. Granted (excuse the pun) the cooking tools and techniques chefs impose on ingredients will be revolutionary, and granted that it will continue to make dinner exciting for the cook and the guest, but where is the identifiable cuisine that people will speak of? For example, I ate at Trio in November and had a terrific meal. But I am hard pressed to communicate that meal to others unless I go into detailed descriptions of each dish. I never had that problem eating at 3 star restaurants in France. Each one, is identifiable by the region they reside in. Even the ones in Paris, aside from Pierre Gagnaire and Lucas-Carton, are usually heavily influenced by the chef's native region. Even in this country, The French Laundry is described as "whimsical" because the dishes mimic classic American concepts like Coffee and Donuts etc. So how are we going to describe this new cuisine you are talking about other then "modern and inventive?"

There is another aspect to this as well. If I wanted to be cynical about it, if the new cooking techniques you describe had such a tremendous positive impact on flavor, why the need for unusual pairings? What about using a paco jet or mister has caused chefs to shuffle the flavor deck? Why isn't just enhancing the flavor you used to get with more traditional cooking methods, plus the improved texture you get from the new cooking technique, enough? To simplify this question, if a new cooking technique makes for a steak that tastes better, why for example does a chef need to pair it with date puree? And to simplify it even more, it seemed that traditionally chefs tried to make combinations that were intended to last. But I don't see that happening as much anymore. Today the modern chefs seem to be in a free-for-all where the main goal is to surprise. Do you really think that dining will be become almost exclusively about what the chef does? And can that genre of cooking style last if a indentifiable cuisine doesn't spring out of it?

Steve:

This will take some time to answer these questions. I will probably break it into several parts to help illustrate my points and focus.

The "indentifiable cuisine" is in the virgin stages of being created. It is not yet complete becuase it is new. Look at how slowly the progression of food moves. In the kitchens of the great restaurants in this country, and in Europe, the same basic techniques are still utilized today that cooks used 100 years ago. Styles have come and gone in ingredient pairing, presentation, globalization of cuisines, but little headway has been made in terms of NEW TECHNIQUE. Roast, braise, saute, steam, grill have been used by Escoffier and Keller and everyone in between. Of course some new methods have come along, but for the most part cooks have been executing classic techniques and putting their own twists on them for many years. These classic techniques may never go away, but it is refreshing to see developments and more importantly mindsets commited to discovering new techniques.

I feel, and correct me if I am wrong, that the indentifiable characteristic you are relying on is regionalism. This is very difficult in the states compared to Europe. Let's use France as a general example. First of all they are their own country and have been for many years. The U.S. has the disadvantage of being the melting pot that it is with much less historic gastronomy to call "it's own". Also in terms of food culture France is less reluctant to advance with the times. Example. From my experiences it is much easier to find a small farmer producing milk from a small herd of cows there than here. That farmer has been on his land for many generations and has sold the milk or cheese to local restaruarants for years . The relationships between small farmer, fisher, ect.. has a long lineage. Therefore cuisine in a certain region of France is shaped more dramaticly by society. In the states it is very difficult to establish these intimate relationships because it tends to not be profitable for the small guys to exist.

Define American cuisine? Is cuisine defined by ingredients? I would say so, primarily. I have a hard time with "whimsical" being a type of cuisine.

The use of unusual ingredients is not an attempt to do anything but create a new cuisine, at least for Trio. Not for the sole purpose to surprize. It is surprizing because the diner has never sampled this pairing before. I am sure it was surprizing when people said there was a machine that moved people from place to place without a horse. I see your point. As a chef, when we come across an unusual pairing, we second and triple guess ourselves. Why are we doing this? Because it tastes good has to be the answer. But it is even surprizing to us, and we conseptulized it! If we are confident in a pairing it will be plugged into the repertoire and stay there. For example, Trio feels confident that bittersweet chocolate and niciose olives pair well together, as well as campari and grapefruit, olive oil and green apple, orange and mustard, blue cheese, and white chocolate, kola and caviar, sardines and foie gras............ It is our way of advancing the cause of fine dinning. It is our way of inventing the wheel.

Advances in technology mean the same thing in cuisine as they do in medicine. With the invention of the paco jet, and crayo-vac machine cooks are giving heart transplants to food. It is another tool in the carpenter's belt.

Yes, I feel in today's world of globalization, with the internet, fed ex, and blurred foundation of what is our's, cuisine will move more towards chef brands as cuisine types. If you go to an Alain Ducasse restaurant you know what to expect as well as Thomas Keller, Jean Georges, Daniel Boulud, Pierre Gagnaire, Ferran Adria...... All of these chefs use ingredients, and techniques borrowed from other cultures and their peers but you know who's restaurant you are sitting in blindfolded. Becuase they are the cuisine, just like Monet is to impressionism, and Mozart is to classical.

Describe the year 2004.

Edited by chefg (log)

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Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

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Steve -- The regional orientation you view most Parisian top restaurants as having may not be the dominant cuisine characteristics of those restaurants. Take as an example of some (not all) of the three-star chefs from Brittany in Paris. While C LeSquer at Ledoyen is known for certain of his seafood dishes, there is little in B Pacaud's cuisine at L'Ambroisie that highlights a Breton origin, in my mind.

chefg --

10a. Could you discuss dehydration as a technique (e.g., equipment needed, specific steps, products amenable to the technique)? Are products that are dehydrated sometimes rehydrated when cooked?

10b. Are there chefs with whom you discuss the newer techniques, other than other Trio chefs?

Edited by cabrales (log)
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Even in this country, The French Laundry is described as "whimsical" because the dishes mimic classic American concepts like Coffee and Donuts etc. So how are we going to describe this new cuisine you are talking about other then "modern and inventive?"

Steve Plotnicki - It seems to me there are two issues being dealt wth here: techniques of preparing food and the food itself. My opinion is that what becomes very "modern and inventive" (not only at Trio, but also with Ferran Adrià, Thomas Keller, and hopefully other chefs in other countries more and more now) is focused more on the former catagory, rather than the later. This deals with the usage of all the techniques mentioned earlier by 'chefg' and also with the way common dishes are deconstructed and presented in new forms. Having eaten at Trio several times and seen the menu change over the months, one thing I've noticed is Chef Achatz does indeed tend to play with "classic American dishes" that he and we all grew up with: hamburger and rootbeer, milkshakes, pizza, popcorn, ice cream sandwich, potato chips, etc... As you mentioned Keller also does this as well (having grown up with the same things), but in complete contrast, Ferran Adrià's food contains references to traditional Catalan dishes from the areas of Spain he grew up in. A meal at el Bulli will include a tapas section and he seems to focus a lot on sardines, prawns, meditarranean flavors of the sea, etc... So I do have to disagree and say Trio fits in as a sometimes highly American cuisine, albeit very "modern and inventive." (I will also note, that it seems Keller is a bit conservative by comparison, as far as technique is concerned; he seems to favor some of the more traditional French methods of yesteryear, with regards to cooking meats and fish, and does not use a lot of foams, ices, gelatin...). But, with these chefs, there are also the global influences, which come up from all over the board. Off the top of my head (I'm kinda exhausted so bear with me) two good examples from Trio of this are the passion fruit (or sometimes mango) lassi they serve, a traditional Indian drink and the halibut dish with rutebega-mustard that maintains the essence of sushi (partly). And finally there are the dishes -- many of them -- which are completely original and new, but still aren't just random flavor combinations; rather, modern approaches to flavors that do work together, or otherwise they would never make it out of the kitchen. And I would be hard pressed to really think of something I've eaten Trio that didn't work (although I've had heard rumours that this has been the case of late at el Bull, but I'm still dying to go!)

Still, these three chefs do get grouped together for a reason. They are all doing food that is (to steal Steve's way of putting it again, since it is such an excellent way to do so) "modern and inventive" (and I'll add two more words: fun and entertaining). As 'chefg' stated earlier, "The days of putting a piece of protein in a hot pan are almost over." I would have to agree. Ferran Adrià also can be quoted as saying "it's over for the French chefs," right after receiving his third Michelin star. As new technology becomes available along with the access to practically any ingredient desired (by the way, what are: paw paws, cronses, limequats, galangal, cardoons..?), why should a chef not use them and only stay true to one region of France or one "identifiable cuisine"?

9b. Cheese Apologies for not having information on Trio's cheese plate, due to not yet having dined there. However, to what extent is cheese served at the restaurant sourced locally? A similar question, with respect to US cheese?

Cabrales - This is a direct quote from Pastry Chef at Trio, Paula Haney: "In addition to planning and overseeing Trio's pastry menu, I am also responsible for designing our cheese offerings. Like my pastry menu, the cheese plate has a strong seasonal focus. While I never put geographic limits on my cheese courses, I usually include one or more American artisinal cheeses." It's from the American Cheese Society website here

Edited by RyneSchraw (log)
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mr. schraw

halibut dish with rutebega-mustard that is a take on sushi.

other than the obvious of fish being wrapped in a green, vegetal wrap, in what way does the trio dish remind you of sushi?

mike

btw, good reading....stop being so shy and post more often!!!! :raz:

Edited by mikeczyz (log)
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ChefG (and this responds to Ryne as well) - Well what I am talking about is how to describe the cuisine. Regionalism makes it easy to communicate to those who weren't at the meal what it is that you ate. To say that Michel Guerard had a modern take on Southwestern cuisine filled in many blanks for those who wanted to know for their own future reference. But for example, even though my meal this past November at Trio was better then almost any meal I have had in the U.S., I am hard pressed to describe it in a way other then "modern and inventive." And if I had an easier way to describe it, I could convince more people to try it. I think this is a slightly larger problem then people give it credit for being. And it is one of the reasons that "modern and inventive" cuisine hasn't had as much traction in U.S. restaurants as one would have expected.

I will agree that the days of putting a slab of protein into a pan are going to end one day, possibly soon by the way we measure time in cuisine. But I am skeptical as to how soon it will be unless someone can describe what the cuisine expresses other then saying it showcases the amazing technique of the chef. That will only take us so far. It has to be part of a greater esthetic expression, whether derived in regionalism or something else. People are used to eating "regionalism." Will that stop because of great technique?

By the way, you guys (ChefG, Cabby, Ryne) those are some great posts.

Edited by Steve Plotnicki (log)
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mike- about the halibut dish -- well, first there is the way it is served, like you said, wrapped in mustard leaves (i think), and second is the usage of mustard in the sauce, which has a similar effect as wasabi. of course the dish itself is not technically sushi at all, as the fish is cooked and served heated. definitely, though it was a suprising and very creative dish. 'chefg' is correct about the smaller dishes and canapes tending more towards creativity, but lately some of the main courses have that feeling about them as well!

-ryne

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Steve does make a very good point. Aside from pulling out all the four-star reviews or explaining how Chef Achatz was sous chef at the French Laundry for several years (and then what that implies), I've found it difficult to talk people into going to Trio for the first time. But once you get anyone in there, it all makes sense. Really the food speaks for itself, but as Steve pointed out, it would be a lot easier to have a concise and precise way to talk about it. But really this almost seems impossible in a way; trying to explain a movement in cuisine that is focused much more on a mindset and approach towards the future, than with any region or ingredient. All regions apply, as do all ingredients (if desired by the chef). Also, there is the point ChefG made, about how it's really the beginning of this type of cooking, so for any of this to become clearly definined...well this may take some time.

-ryne

Edited by RyneSchraw (log)
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RyneSchraw -- Could you discuss the nature of the dish descriptions provided by the dining room team, when you order, and, separately, when a dish is presented? How do the descriptions become provided if the dish is temperature-sensitive or otherwise deteriorates with the passage of time? Do dish descriptions omit new techniques, as one might expect?

To what extent do you see the dish descriptions as aiding diner comprehension of the dishes? Do you believe that Trio diners generally understand at least some notion of what was intended to be conveyed?

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Well it's more then just cosmetics. "Modern and inventive" only describes the technique. It doesn't describe the food. Since we are used to describing food from the perspective of regionalism, I'm not sure what is going to happen here. The Spanish chefs have a similar problem, which in part is why they aren't better known in the U.S. among diners. They are chefs in Spain who are known for cooking in a very modern and creative style, not for having created a modern version of Spanish cuisine. My feeling is that if they were known for the latter, you would see it being copied more in other countries.

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chefg -- Only when you have time...

14 (?). Location of Trio Could you discuss whether you see the location of Trio outside of central Chicago as being more helpful or as being overall less desirable? For example, do you see the distance as allowing the restaurant to attract a large proportion of diners who are interested in Chef Achatz's cuisine and travel for it? (Please only respond if you are comfortable doing so; note also that I am not familiar with the geography of Chicago and its surroundings)

15. Relais Gourmand Aspirations Are you aware of whether Chef Achatz is interested in pursuing RG designation? (Please only respond if you are comfortable doing so)

RyneSchraw & Steve P -- What accommodations are located close to Trio?

Edited by cabrales (log)
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