I need a good baking/pastry book that talks about the science behind baking

[Jessica Queiroz]

Hello there,

I need a book that will teach me the secret science behind baking and free me from recipes. I am developing a blog that will focus a lot on baking. I will be developing my own recipes so I need guidance on the science behind baking. I have read "Ratio" by Michael Ruhmlman and even though it is great I find it somewhat incomplete. In the section of cakes, for instance, he addresses the ratio (1:1:1), the methods (creaming and foaming), and he gives wonderful variations for the basic recipe. He doesn't, however, address the issue of adding cocoa powder to the batter. Cocoa powder, in my view, is not merely a flavoring, it has the potential to interfere with the balance of a cake. If I add cocoa powder, do I decrease the amount of flour? If I decrease the flour amount, should I also decrease the sugar amount? "Ratio" also left some questions unanswered in the cookie section. Ruhlman gives the basic 1,2,3 ratio, but he doesn't really address that some cookies, for instance, have eggs in them. He doesn't address the role each ingredient has. What makes a cookie crumbly or crunchy? What makes it gooey? What makes it soft and cakey? I know that flour and eggs give structure to baked goods, and sugar and fat give it tenderness. But I need a book that addresses in depth the role of each ingredient, along with its percentage.Is there such a book in the market? I understand that no single book might address all the questions I have, but what books would be a good starting point for me?

[Lisa Shock]

Ratio is highly flawed, don't trust it.

 

Professional Baking has most of what you are looking for, as does The Professional Pastry Chef, and the upcoming Bread book by the Modernist Cuisine Team will have more. But, honestly, there's already a ton of information online. (although the MC team should give us better data) And, of course, attending a culinary school pastry program will get you even more information. I don't know of anything that will totally free you from recipes. You may have noticed that there aren't any cookbooks or websites about free-form baking without recipes.

 

In culinary school we memorize charts for things like ingredient amounts in all the types of custards, etc. While it's true that I can make a more informed guess about something (will it turn out as a runny sauce or a firm custard) I'm still mostly following formulas that I memorized.  Even in master level classes, formulas are handed out and disaster may strike if they are not followed precisely. Sure, in some cases, you can make liberal substitutions, but in other cases something simple as replacing the recipe's orange flower water with orange oil will destroy it.

 

And, or course, we use scales for a reason. Even simple American-style recipes which use volumetric measurements for dry ingredients are too unreliable for professional chefs.

[cakewalk]

How Baking Works by Paula Figoni is a good start. You can download it in pdf format. But nothing will replace baking. Bake a lot and take notes.

[cakewalk]

Ratio is highly flawed, don't trust it.

 

Professional Baking has most of what you are looking for, as does The Professional Pastry Chef, and the upcoming Bread book by the Modernist Cuisine Team will have more. But, honestly, there's already a ton of information online. (although the MC team should give us better data) And, of course, attending a culinary school pastry program will get you even more information. I don't know of anything that will totally free you from recipes. You may have noticed that there aren't any cookbooks or websites about free-form baking without recipes.

 

In culinary school we memorize charts for things like ingredient amounts in all the types of custards, etc. While it's true that I can make a more informed guess about something (will it turn out as a runny sauce or a firm custard) I'm still mostly following formulas that I memorized.  Even in master level classes, formulas are handed out and disaster may strike if they are not followed precisely. Sure, in some cases, you can make liberal substitutions, but in other cases something simple as replacing the recipe's orange flower water with orange oil will destroy it.

 

And, or course, we use scales for a reason. Even simple American-style recipes which use volumetric measurements for dry ingredients are too unreliable for professional chefs.

Agreed. Understanding each ingredient's role, while necessary, does not really lead to working without a recipe.

[Martin Fisher]

BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking By Shirley O. Corriher

[Jessica Queiroz]

Thank you all for the information! I really appreciate it!

[EnriqueB]

I like the 2 that have already been mentioned: How Baking Works by Figoni, and BakeWise by Shirley Corriher. I would add Understanding Baking by Joseph Amendola and Advanced Bread and Pastry by Michael Suas.