Drinks! (2004–2007)

[ThinkingBartender]

Re: Dreamy Dorini Smokin' Martini

Quite frankly I am suprised at the members of Egullet, usually so stalwart in their disappreciation of Vodka, passing up the opportunity to champion the original gin version of this drink.

The Smoky Martini. Gin, Laphroaig, and lemon twist. Prepared in the same why as the Audrey Saunders version.

Cheers!

George

[thirtyoneknots]

Smoking Martini: Correct me if I'm wrong, but what this essentially creates is a glass of blended scotch, no? Of course it has a dash of pastis in it and not to mention Islays are probably not often used in blends, but is that not essentially what it is? It's something I've always found interesting in concept, but it also seems custom-made for the Scotch lover (which I wouldn't quite call myself).

Vya: Agreed on the dry, I think I've more or less decided I don't care much for it as a mixer, especially for the price. I recently acquired some Marie Brizard Cassis, so maybe I'll use it up in Pompiers, since it is really, really good by itself or in simple concoctions like that. All things considered, I think my final opinion of Vya is that for me its not worth the extra money or extra trouble it costs, NP and M&R it is! I did rather enjoy the sweet though, I could see myself buying that again, just to spoil myself a bit.

-Andy

[slkinsey]

Re: Dreamy Dorini Smokin' Martini

Quite frankly I am suprised at the members of Egullet, usually so stalwart in their disappreciation of Vodka, passing up the opportunity to champion the original gin version of this drink.

The Smoky Martini. Gin, Laphroaig, and lemon twist. Prepared in the same why as the Audrey Saunders version.

Interesting, although Audrey's version contains the critical addition of a dash of pastis.

What is the provenance of this cocktail? Who/when/where?

[limewine]

Not sure I agree about the Carpano Antica.  Given that Carpano are said to be the original commercial  maker of Italian Vermouth and also claim to be using a recipe based on their original product, it's hard to say what they are making isn't authentic Italian Vermouth.

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Whoa, whoa...I didn't say anything about authenticity. True, Carpano had the first commercial vermouth (1786, if memory serves), but Martini & Rossi geared up production in the 1860s. Carpano says the Antica is based on the original formula, and M&R have tweaked their recipe over the years.

My point was, in a cocktail that originated in the 1930s--like the Cocktail de la Louisiane--the vermouth they were using was, in all likelihood, a "lighter" tasting vermouth more along the lines of today's M&R or Cinzano, than the deeply complex, 18th-century style Carpano.

As I said, I love the Carpano, and the Vya, but when mixing them in a Manhattan (I haven't tried either in the Louisiane), I tend to tone down the vermouth a bit more than when making the drink with Cinzano or M&R. It just seems a better balance that way, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's the same case with using these vermouths in the Louisiane, or any of a number of other cocktails.

[eje]

Whoa, whoa...I didn't say anything about authenticity. True, Carpano had the first commercial vermouth (1786, if memory serves), but Martini & Rossi geared up production in the 1860s. Carpano says the Antica is based on the original formula, and M&R have tweaked their recipe over the years.

My point was, in a cocktail that originated in the 1930s--like the Cocktail de la Louisiane--the vermouth they were using was, in all likelihood, a "lighter" tasting vermouth more along the lines of today's M&R or Cinzano, than the deeply complex, 18th-century style Carpano.

As I said, I love the Carpano, and the Vya, but when mixing them in a Manhattan (I haven't tried either in the Louisiane), I tend to tone down the vermouth a bit more than when making the drink with Cinzano or M&R. It just seems a better balance that way, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's the same case with using these vermouths in the Louisiane, or any of a number of other cocktails.

←

Makes sense.

I do imagine most of the vermouth companies have tweaked their formulas over the years, if only to adjust to changes in the base wines and what spices were available or legal in certain countries.

I don't know how possible it is to speculate what the vermouth used in the early part of the twentieth century or late 19th century might have tasted like. Or what vermouth might have been behind the bar in New Orleans when the Louisiane might have been created.

If anyone has insight, it would be great to hear.

I wonder, do any of the vermouths still use wormwood for flavoring? Or were they forced to remove that when Absinthe was made illegal?

The Antica definitely shines in simple cocktails with a good strong tasting whisk(e)y to fight it out with. In a Manhattan with the Sazerac 6, the combined flavors remind me of nocino. In a Bobby Burns with Asyla Scotch, it shows a completely different, but, no less delicious face.

[limewine]

I wonder, do any of the vermouths still use wormwood for flavoring?  Or were they forced to remove that when Absinthe was made illegal?

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I know that Noilly Prat and Martini & Rossi still use a variety of wormwood in their vermouths. I toured both of their facilities last summer, and at each place I was told that the variety they use has negligible amounts of thujone, and that this meant they weren't affected by the absinthe ban.

Vya, on the other hand, does not use wormwood. I was told by Andrew Quady (maker of Vya) that he had considered it, but the bitterness it imparts was too strong for the product he was trying to make.

I'd be surprised if Carpano didn't use wormwood.

On the topic of the types of vermouths used in different places at different times, I should go back through my notes. I seem to recall (can someone help me here?) Martini & Rossi made the export market--especially western Europe and the United States--their top priority when they started business in the 1860s or so. Later on, Cinzano targeted markets in South America & the Caribbean, especially Cuba.

It's been a while since I looked at this stuff, but that's what I dimly recall through the haze of an autumn spent enjoying Cocktail de la Louisianes. I'll check my notes when I get home.

[johnder]

Ok tonight I made a beefeater martini with my grapefruit bitters.

I did 1.5 oz Beefeater

.5 oz Noilly Dry

3 dashes grapefruit bitters

big fat flamed grapefruit twist.

Very tasty. The bitters didn't overpower the drink and gave it a great aroma.

[thirtyoneknots]

Continuing my journey through Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, tonight after dinner I made an East India Cocktail:

3 oz brandy (Martell VS)

1/2 oz raspberry syrup (1883 de Philibert Routin, highly recommended)

1 tsp curacao (Marie Brizzard)

1 tsp maraschino (Luxardo)

1 dash bitters (2-3 dashes Angostura)

Stir and strain (or shake if using Smuckers syrups). This made two drinks in my tiny glasses. The book calls for a cherry garnish but I used an orange peel instead, to good effect.

I've long been a big fan of the Japanese Cocktail after dinner, though I typically cut the Orgeat by half (again, using 1883 de Philibert Routin) and this looked to be in the same family. I was pleased with the complex flavor and subtle sweetness, just right for an after-dinner stomach settler. All in all though, I doubt it will replace the Japanese in my regular rotation. I'm not sure what % of cocktails I have tried from that book, but I know that I have had everything to the Golden Dawn (though of course I'm not going in order). Absinthe will be ordered after Valentines Day and hopefully some Swedish Punsch by spring, I think that'll set me to complete the book.

-Andy

Edit to close parenthesis

Edit again for clarity

Edited January 30, 2007 by thirtyoneknots (log)

[Nishla]

Last night I made a fairly tasty drink:

1 1/2 oz jasmine tea infused vodka (I would have used gin, but I was trying to use up extra vodka)

1/2 oz szechuan peppercorn infused vodka

3/4 oz lemon juice

1/2 oz simple syrup

1 egg white

Shake and strain

We had a pretty potent batch of szechuan peppercorns, and the floral flavor was great with the jasmine tea. I think the ratio was good for just the right amount of spiciness.

[jsmeeker]

Manhattan.

My first one with rye. Bought some Wild Turkey today so I could try a more authentic version of this classic drink I've been enjoying recently and have been making (at home) using Jim Beam.

[Bricktop]

Hanging out watching the Colts and Ravens, I decided to make myself an Algonquin.

2 oz rye (WT 101)

1 oz dry vermouth (Vya)

1 oz pineapple juice

Shaken and strained.  No garnish.

I have been wanting to try this one for a long time, mainly because of the cool name, its Dry Manhattan roots, and I like pineapple.  I have been burning through my rye big time of late, and I have less than a 1/4 bottle each of the WT 101, Jim Beam, and baby Sazerac.  No way I was going to use the 18 YO Sazerac in here (sequestered for my Red Hooks ) so with the 25% juice component, I went with the WT 101.  It is a lovely, balanced drink, but with so many more cocktails to try, I won't be revisiting it too soon.

As Bill from Chappaqua might say, "It depends on what your definition of 'soon' is." In Dave Wondrich's Esquire piece, he said "Truth be told, we find that two or three dashes of Fee Bros. West Indian Orange Bitters (call 716-544-9530) does wonders for the drink." I couldn't agree more. I came back to the Algonquin this evening, but this time with Rittenhouse BIB rye, and M&R dry vermouth, and two dashes of Fee's Orange Bitters. Yowzer. It's a different (and much better) drink. The bitters just round off and finish the drink. I love the Rittenhouse, my new house rye for sure, and it works great here. Given that it and the M&R outshone the more expensive Wild Turkey and Vya, this is the way I'll go from now. I'll give those guys a shot with the Fee's, for scientific reasons only of course, you understand.

[Bricktop]

Manhattan.

My first one with rye.  Bought some Wild Turkey today so I could try a more authentic version of this classic drink I've been enjoying recently and have been making (at home) using Jim Beam.

Welcome to the Wonderful World of Rye, Jeff. The first time I had a proper Manhattan, it was an eye opener. Now, it's the only way I roll.

[tkd7]

Manhattan.

My first one with rye.  Bought some Wild Turkey today so I could try a more authentic version of this classic drink I've been enjoying recently and have been making (at home) using Jim Beam.

Welcome to the Wonderful World of Rye, Jeff. The first time I had a proper Manhattan, it was an eye opener. Now, it's the only way I roll.

←

The only thing that stinks is that you'll have a tough time ordering a Manhattan when you are out, since most bars haven't seen a bottle of rye in 50 years.

[Bricktop]

From the Mixology Monday thread, a Metropole

1.5 oz cognac (Germain Robin Alembic)

1.5 oz dry vermouth (Vya)

dash Fee's orange bitters

2 dashes Peychaud's bitters.

stirred and strained, garnished with a homemade maraschino cherry.

My first real disappointing cocktail. Maybe the brands, maybe just me. Down the sink it went.

[thirtyoneknots]

From the Mixology Monday thread, a Metropole

1.5 oz cognac (Germain Robin Alembic)

1.5 oz dry vermouth (Vya)

dash Fee's orange bitters

2 dashes Peychaud's bitters.

stirred and strained, garnished with a homemade maraschino cherry.

My first real disappointing cocktail.  Maybe the brands, maybe just me.  Down the sink it went.

←

Trust me, it's the Vya. I had the same experience the first time I made it. Give it another spin with Noilly Prat. One of the things that cemented my decision to never buy Vya Dry again.

-Andy

[eje]

Trust me, it's the Vya. I had the same experience the first time I made it. Give it another spin with Noilly Prat. One of the things that cemented my decision to never buy Vya Dry again.

-Andy

←

Yeah, you gotta be careful with the Vya Dry Vermouth. It is very different animal from traditional dry vermouth. Much more heavily spiced and made on what seems to be a much richer wine base.

If you're at all a wine person, it's like the Noilly Dry is made from a French Sauvingon Blanc and the Vya is made on a base of New World Chardonnay.

In a vermouth heavy cocktail like the Metropole, the Vya would completely dominate, especially with a mildly flavored brandy like the Germain-Robin.

If you wanted to try it again with those two ingredients, cut the vermouth to brandy ratio significantly. Make it 2-1 brandy to vermouth (2 oz Brandy, 1 oz vermouth), or even 3 or 4 to 1 and you should get much closer to what the Metropole should taste like.

Edited February 14, 2007 by eje (log)

[Bricktop]

At the urging of Andy and Erik, I used Noilly Prat in place of the Vya in the Metropole this evening.

What a difference! What was vile is now delightful. I am going to have to be very careful about

where and how I use the Vya dry down the road. In this case it just clashed too violently.

On the other hand, the sweet has had no conflicts.

Thanks, guys!

[FoodMan]

I'm really loving this Blood Orange Negroni I came up with to use some blood oranges I have. Other than looking so damn pretty, the tart sweet flavor of the blood ornage works great with the bitterness and spicy/herby taste of the drink.

1.75 oz Gin

.75 oz Campari

.75 oz Sweet Vermouth

.75 oz blood orange juice

[johnder]

Given the sudden 8 seconds of fame my drink got in Megan's blog, I wanted to update the recipe a bit based upon the research last night.

The recipe as it stands now:

1.75oz Rittenhouse

.25oz Los Amates Reposado

1 oz Lemon

Barspoon Bonne Mamman Wild Blueberry Jam

2 Dashes Fees

Shake, double strain.

There are reports that 3/4 oz of lemon brings out the rye flavor a bit more, I will investigate that tonight.

[TallDrinkOfWater]

Tonight I came across an email I'd sent to myself a few weeks ago with a cocktail recipe that I had not previously tried. When I get a recipe from somewhere I'm pretty consistent about noting where, but I had nothing in my email about this, and dredging the depths of my memory as to where I may have been or what I might have been reading then has so far not yielded any results.

Both my wife and I liked it quite a bit, and it's a keeper. Anyone heard of it before? And who is Tarleton?

Tarleton's Resurrection

4 parts gin [1-1/2 oz. Tanqueray]

2 parts lemon juice [3/4 oz.]

2 parts Cherry Heering [3/4 oz.]

1 part maraschino liqueur [~1-1/2 tsp. Maraska]

appropriately generous dashes Regan's orange bitters [two large dashes]

Shake with ice; strain into chilled cocktail glass

Source: unknown at this time

[thirtyoneknots]

Had myself an Old Fashioned with Wild Turkey Bourbon (101) tonight. It was nice, but after not having had a Bourbon Old-Fashioned in a while, I now remember why I prefer Rye.

And while this would probably fit more under wine, the real treat this evening was a glass of Yulumba Antique Tawny [Port] I enjoyed at my place of employ (went in on my night off). Lots of raisins and maple, absolutely wonderful.

-Andy

[KatieLoeb]

Here's the result of the latest tinkerings. I've run this by several customers and the chef and staff and all seem to love it. The manager has had one as his shift drink the last three nights running...

Parisian Martini

2.5 oz. Hendrick's gin

1 oz. Lillet

.5 oz. fresh lemon juice

.5 oz. thyme simple syrup

two dashes Fee Brothers Lemon bitters

Orange twist

Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a fat orange twist that has had the oils expressed over the cocktail.

I'm going to try this with Lavender syrup as well and see if a Provencal Martini is in the making.

[TallDrinkOfWater]

Here's the result of the latest tinkerings.  I've run this by several customers and the chef and staff and all seem to love it.  The manager has had one as his shift drink the last three nights running...

Parisian Martini

2.5 oz. Hendrick's gin

1 oz. Lillet

.5 oz. fresh lemon juice

.5 oz. thyme simple syrup

two dashes Fee Brothers Lemon bitters

Orange twist

Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.  Garnish with a fat orange twist that has had the oils expressed over the cocktail.

I'm going to try this with Lavender syrup as well and see if a Provencal Martini is in the making.

←

Great recipe!

We tried a lavender variation on this tonight (not having any thyme syrup handy, but having an unopened bottle of French lavender syrup just waiting to be used).

2.5 oz. Hendrick's gin

1 oz. Lillet

.5 oz. fresh lemon juice

.5 oz. lavender syrup syrup

two dashes Fee Brothers orange bitters [don't have the lemon on hand]

Orange twist

Excellent. Perhaps the tiniest bit sweet for my palette; I may have to tweak the proportions a bit on the lavender syrup. Maybe the lemon bitters would have made the difference.

It strikes me that subbing in violet liqueur for the thyme (or lavender) syrup might be a good variation. Will try that one of these days soon and report back.

[eje]

[...]

It strikes me that subbing in violet liqueur for the thyme (or lavender) syrup might be a good variation. Will try that one of these days soon and report back.

←

There's also a provencal thyme liqueur called Farigoule that might be interesting to experiment with.

Or Pastis...

[KatieLoeb]

Dayne:

Glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for test driving the lavender variation for me. I'm definitely going to try that soon.

I think the lemon bitters might be the difference. They are a bit more tart and slightly less bitter than the Orange bitters. You ought to get yourself a bottle. They're really delicious. Just a drop in a regular gin martini seems to wake up the flavor tremendously as well. Also the combination of flavors between the lemon juice and lemon bitters and the orange twist is one of the subtleties of the drink I really like.

edited to add:

What a great photo of the drink! It looks delicious. And you got the big fat twist of orange just right.