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Posted

There have been threads on maraschino, Cherry Heering and Sangue Morlacco, and postings on the importance of quality cocktail cherries, and scattered references to various liqueurs. What I hope to get going is a discussion of the flavor of cherry, and how to get that into a drink without turning it into kids' cough syrup.

Maraschino, of course, doesn't taste of cherry per se -- I would never want to be without it, but it's really its own category. Cherry Heering, the few times I've had it, is more classic cherry flavored, but even though it's claimed to be on the dry side I've found cocktails with it still come out too sweet. Not so much of a problem in something like a Singapore Sling, but more so when pairing it with, say, bourbon. Luxardo's Sangue de Morlacco I haven't tried, but suspect to be similar, there are several other new cherry liqueurs, including one from Rothman & Winter, that I'm curious about. Any reviewers? As for cherry rums and vodkas, let's just not go there, unless someone's willing to stick their neck out for one of 'em.

This leaves us with kirschwasser and similar eau-de-vies. Too dry? Too intense, and apt to overpower? Is anyone using cherry bitters to good effect? It seems to me that cherry is at the same time ubiquitous as a flavor, and yet somehow underused in the cocktailian arsenal.

Yojimbo

"The thirst for water is a primitive one. Thirst for wine means culture, and thirst for a cocktail is its highest expression."

Pepe Carvalho, The Buenos Aires Quintet by Manuel Vazquez Montalban

Posted (edited)

Maybe too obvious of an answer, but when cherries are in season I've had cherry "mojitos" made with cachaça , muddled cherries, lime & sugar. They are delicious. A local restaurant (modus) used to serve them. They may have used a touch of cherry heering as well.

The PDT cocktail book has a gin-based cocktail called the "Cherry pop" which uses fresh cherries and maraschino and may be worth trying as well.

Edited by FrogPrincesse (log)
Posted

Kirschwasser is a great spirit. It is not overly cherry flavored like Cherry Heering or other cherry liqueurs. Contrast Orchard Pear to Poire William eau-de-vie. I've used it successfully as a main spirit. The good stuff is spendy, though.

As for cherry drinks being sweet, it's a case of cocktail design and balance. The sweetness can be balanced directly with acid (citrus, dry vermouth, dry sherry, etc.) and/or indirectly with bitterness (an amaro of some sort, tonic water, etc). The combination of bittersweet and cherry can be like cough syrup. Be subtle with more spirit than one might use with, say, orange.

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