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Adding Eggs to Custard, Curd, and Creme


Shel_B

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I'm just starting to play around with making Pot de Creme, lemon curd, flan, and other similar dessert dishes. Recipes sometimes call for the addition of whole eggs, egg yolk alone, or a mixture of whole eggs and extra yolks.

What do the different egg combinations add to or detract from these treats? What might happen to a dessert if more egg of any combination was added, such as making the dish with six yolks instead of four, or adding an extra yolk or two to a recipe that calls for whole eggs?

Thanks!

 ... Shel


 

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In my experience yolks in something like flan contribute to richness - so adding more of them (within reason) will amp up that sensation and make the whole dessert seem more filling. A 2-yolk flan made with 4 yolks, for example, will set slightly looser but taste far creamier and richer.

With curds, I understand the yolk to be an optional ingredient. When I make yolkless curd it's lighter and the curd structure is a bit tighter than with the yolks, but yolked curd is again much richer and creamier in mouthfeel.

Elizabeth Campbell, baking 10,000 feet up at 1° South latitude.

My eG Food Blog (2011)My eG Foodblog (2012)

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Egg whites set a custard more firmly than yolks. Flan and creme caramel mostly use whole eggs, and are firm enough to hold their shape when unmolded. Pot de creme and creme brulee use mostly yolks, and are rich and custardy but not firm enough to unmold. In lemon curd, I have used both yolks only and whole eggs, and I'm not sure I can tell the difference, although I have never compared side to side. Lately I have been using a whole egg lemon curd recipe simply for ease and convenience.

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I have two different lemon curd recipes; one that uses only yolks (we call it cake curd because we use it as a component in our lemon cakes - spreading on the cake, and flavoring the buttercream) and the other (we call it tart curd because we pour it into tart shells) that uses whole eggs and some additional yolks. The cake curd sets firmer than the tart curd; and to my taste is a far stronger lemon punch (all those yolks are fat, and fat carries flavor....). I don't like the cake curd in a tart shell, though for exactly that reason.

In our cheesecake, if I want to make it a little firmer without resorting to adding (any, or more) cornstarch or flour (only the pumpkin cheesecake has any flour in it actually), especially when I'm trying to make cheesecake pops, I replace one of the whole eggs with two yolks. If I get cocky and think I need it to be a littler firmer and add an extra yolk "just because", I am rewarded with a too-tough texture and end up making little cheesecake superballs that can take your eye out!

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I wouldn't put lemon in with limes for curd - the flavour profiles are very different. I would, however, use some zest. Now a question: are you using this curd between cake, in a pie shell, or as a topping? That will help to determine the recipe; my go-to for limes is yolks-only but I prefer a much smoother softer curd than many.

Elizabeth Campbell, baking 10,000 feet up at 1° South latitude.

My eG Food Blog (2011)My eG Foodblog (2012)

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I wouldn't put lemon in with limes for curd - the flavour profiles are very different. I would, however, use some zest. Now a question: are you using this curd between cake, in a pie shell, or as a topping? That will help to determine the recipe; my go-to for limes is yolks-only but I prefer a much smoother softer curd than many.

I was thinking of mainly as a topping--I like spreading curds on cookies and eating them, one by one...and I like to put them on cheese. Really.

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I was thinking of mainly as a topping--I like spreading curds on cookies and eating them, one by one...and I like to put them on cheese. Really.

Which cheeses work well for this?

 ... Shel


 

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Ooh, ooh, on cheese! I've always preferred either mild cheeses or extremely stinky ones with curd - I thought I was the only one! Shel - for me, the ideal is either Fontina or a similar subacid semimature cheese, or a really gone old Amalattea Forte or Bleu.

Although I'll also admit to hollowing out a hole in a good Brie and pouring in the curd, then allowing that to set. Mmmmm.

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Elizabeth Campbell, baking 10,000 feet up at 1° South latitude.

My eG Food Blog (2011)My eG Foodblog (2012)

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Although I'll also admit to hollowing out a hole in a good Brie and pouring in the curd, then allowing that to set. Mmmmm.

Do you add the curd while it's still warm or hot?

 ... Shel


 

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While it's still liquid enough to pour and remain smooth in the brie-hole. It partially melts the cheese it comes into contact with, and then as the whole schmoo cools it ends up like a lime-y yummy "baked" brie. I have tried it with cold curd, and it hasn't been satisfactory.

I sometimes go the extra step of actually baking it for 15 minutes or so at 350F, simply because when I make high-yolk curds I can have problems with setting without the extra baking step.

Elizabeth Campbell, baking 10,000 feet up at 1° South latitude.

My eG Food Blog (2011)My eG Foodblog (2012)

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