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Sweets in Tokyo


Mette

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Hi,

this may actually belong in the Japan forum, but here goes:

I'm going to Tokyo for a work trip next week (Sunday to Friday), and because of the way the flights have worked out, I'll be able to have a couple of days off in Tokyo. Any recommendations for sweets, cakes, pastries or ice cream? (or even dinner, but that's definetely for the Japan dining forum...)

I'm happy to take trains and underground anywhere within reason, but a bit more shaky on the busses. I'm staying in Shinegawa.

Thanks very much :cool:

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The basement of Isetan, in Shinjuku, is astounding. The most incredible French pastries, chocolates, macarons, you name it. Also excellent range of Japanese sweets. To get there, you can catch the Yamanote line from Shinagawa to Shinjuku, fight your way out of one of the East exits, and then wander about two blocks North East.

There's also a Sadaharu Aoki shop in Midtown (the new development in Shiodome) and a Pierre Herme shop in Aoyama that I like, but really, both of them have counters in Isetan so I would just camp there and bliss out. (Seriously, next time I'm in Tokyo, I'm looking for a hotel as close as possible to the Isetan foodhall and just basically never leaving.)

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Given that you are based in Europe, I probably give the Europe-based pastry shops a miss if you only have a few days (unless you want to do comparisons b/w the Japanese and European shops). That would leave Pierre Herme, Sadaharu Aoki (incidentally, he sold his interest in the Japanese Sadaharu Aoki pastry shops--they are now completely owned by a Japanese company), Dalloyau, Laduree, Jean-Paul Hevin, Joel Robuchon, etc. off your list.

For French-style Japanese pastry shops, you could try:

Hidemi Sugino (I'm not a fan, but his shop is very very popular and he is well-regarded both domestically and internationally) in Ginza.

Toshi Yoroizuka in Tokyo Midtown (in Roppongi) and also in Ebisu

A Tes Souhaits in Kichijoji (not the most convenient place, but very nice cakes and kouign amann)

Aigre Douce--technically in Shinjuku-ku, but closer to Mejiro Station

Tadashi Yanagi near Toritsudaigaku Station

Mont St. Clair near Toritsudaigaku Station, too (sort of between that station and Jiyugaoka Station)

Origines Cacao chocolate shop near Jiyugaoka Station

You could also try Echire for croissants and other butter-centric sweets.

And I do love love love Viron's kouign amann (near Tokyo Station)

Henri Charpentier (many locations, including Isetan Shinjuku)--great financier and salted caramel cake (when in season)

Chez Cima (both Henri Charpentier and Chez Cima have my favourite caramel macaron) (Isetan Shinjuku)

Gramercy New York (Shinjuku Takashimaya amongst other locations)

etc. etc. If you tour Shinjuku Isetan or any other depachika, you'll find loads of both Japanese-only and Japanese branches of French pastry shops. Buy whatever catches your eye.

Yoku Moku cookies (Shinjuku Isetan and others)

For Japanese stuff

Monaka Kuuya in Ginza (I like monaka, but not everyone does)

Other stuff I can't remember right now.

Oh, karintou. I love karintou. The most popular place is in Tokyo Station somewhere, but I prefer the stuff from Kagetsu in Bunkyo-ku. Very traditional and no wild flavours like at the place in Tokyo Station. I love the stuff from Himeji, so if you come upon a place with specialty foods from Hyogo, take a look for kokuto karinto or the kind covered with white candy. Very sweet, but I love it!

If you like candy, you might come upon some old-fashioned Japanese candies called Bontan-Ame. Covered in clear rice paper, they taste of bontan (a Japanese citrus fruit). They are my favourite candies from my childhood. I've found them in various places--some depachika in areas where old-fashioned Japanese candies and sweets are sold, some supermarkets, and some convenience stores, but they can be hard to find. If you find a place that specializes in goods from Fukuoka, you'll probably find them there.

When in Tokyo, I always stay at a cheap (by Japanese standards) near Isetan Shinjuku. I love the place and spend at least an hour browsing the pastries every day I'm in Tokyo. Needless to say, my hotel in Shinjuku has a little fridge in which I can store my goodies. :-)

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