eG Foodblog: nickrey (2011) - Classical/Modernist: It's all Jazz i

[LindaK]

Your meal at Bentley looks amazing. I also love that sort of food. Can you say something about the duck with cuttlefish main? The combination is intriguing but it's not quite coming together in my head.

[nickrey]

Hi Nick

It has been fascinating to follow you through on this incredible culinary journey. It makes me wanting to come back to Sydney for a visit soon. I need a break from shoveling the snow!

About frying the potato in 140C oil. You can actually do it in the rice cooker and controlled by SousVideMagic using the high temperature sensor(i.e., the one with the grey PTFE cable can control up to 200C)

This way you can deep fry precisely!

Best

Frank

Thanks Frank. I doubt if it will need that level of precision but it's nice to know it can be done. Will keep it in mind if my deep fryer dies

[nickrey]

For those who want a bit more detail on Bentley restaurant, the earlier review was a bit light on as I wanted to get something up last night as I'm travelling today. Have done a more conventional review (on the plane) that I'll post tonight.

Edited January 13, 2011 by nickrey (log)

[manwith8ovens]

Hi Nick

It has been fascinating to follow you through on this incredible culinary journey. It makes me wanting to come back to Sydney for a visit soon. I need a break from shoveling the snow!

About frying the potato in 140C oil. You can actually do it in the rice cooker and controlled by SousVideMagic using the high temperature sensor(i.e., the one with the grey PTFE cable can control up to 200C)

This way you can deep fry precisely!

Best

Frank

Correction: Sensors can take 200C but current SVM version limits to 130C.

[KD1191]

Nick, what's "wattle"?

It's Australia's National floral emblem and a native food. In taste it has coffee, chocolate, and hazelnut elements.

Thanks, I never understood that Monty Python line until just now.

"This here's the wattle, the emblem of our land. You can stick it in a bottle, you can hold it in your hand. Amen!"

[nickrey]

Nick, what's "wattle"?

It's Australia's National floral emblem and a native food. In taste it has coffee, chocolate, and hazelnut elements.

Thanks, I never understood that Monty Python line until just now.

"This here's the wattle, the emblem of our land. You can stick it in a bottle, you can hold it in your hand. Amen!"

Which is exactly what came to mind when Chris asked that question.

Edited January 13, 2011 by nickrey (log)

[manwith8ovens]

Off the topic. Since I am out of the loop (Australian culinary scene).

Who is this guy David Thompson?

I saw his restaurant in SGP being staged in Food Channel "Top Chef Master" finale.

A Thai chef!!?

[kayb]

We're also regulars at a local providore/restaurant called Fourth Village. It won the Champion Retailer award in the Sydney Morning Herald's 2011 Good Food Shopping Guide.

I'll take you for a walk through it and show you why. We shop here all the time and eat a weekend lunch here more than once a fortnight.

They also have an exceptional cheese room, which I must admit spending a lot of time in:

I took some of this cheese home with me.

Although not at the end of the road, it is close enough to duck out to when I need something for my cooking.

Oh...my...God. What I would give for access to a selection of cheese like this.

You do seem to be blessed with marvelous markets. And you certainly do some marvelous things with the provender from them. Enjoying your blog!

[toolprincess]

So off to Bentley Restaurant and Bar for dinner tonight.

I deliberately chose this restaurant because Brent Savage's cooking embodies my tagline of "Classical, Modernist: It's all Jazz in the City." Brent uses techniques because they are appropriate, not because they are the latest greatest thing. I hope my cooking echoes this in some small way.

All of the pictures below were taken without flash.

Let's start off with some champagne while we peruse the menu:

I decided to have the degustation menu with matching wines. My wife had the ocean trout followed by the roast spatchcock.

Prior to dinner, we received some house based bread:

wafer bread, mini grissini, and sourdough

As I was having the degustation, they brought my wife a smoked eel parfait with white soy dressing and seaweed. They served her this with an organic sake, which was absolutely lovely.

I had the octopus with black olive and cucumber with a clear gazpacho soup poured over. The gazpacho was made by juicing the components, freezing them, and straining the residue.

Next on the degustation menu was Ocean trout with ocean trout mousse and fennel pollen. We both had this, me as part of my degustation menu and my wife as her entree (appetiser, not main).

The ocean trout mousse seemed subtly flavoured with curry powder, which added a unique taste to the whole.

Next up for me was the beetroot with horseradish and soy beans. At first I thought the beetroot may have been infused with beetroot juice by way of a vacuum seal. The chef told be that he actually processed it all and then recombined it with something like Gellan. He then wrapped it in Glad Wrap and cooked it to give it the distinctive shape. Brent said that this is not his normal modus operandi but that it worked in this instance and so it made sense to use it.

Next on to the pork belly with wattle, garlic milk and rhubarb.

This was followed by the cured venison and consomme with salsify, chestnut, and scallop.

My wife had the spatchcock at this stage. This was served with sweetcorn polenta, pistachio and asparagus. For her, it was the dish of the night (and she did taste mine so it was not on a small sample). The texture and flavour mixes in this dish were incredible so I can see where she got his idea from.

Then roasted duck breast with cuttlefish and mushroom.

Then on to dessert.

I had the optional creamed stilton with spice bread and cumquat. This tasted a bit like a creamed cheese served in fruit meusli. Very interesting and texturally pleasing.

I was then given a caramelised pineapple and beer sorbet with barley and malt crumbs. This was a very interesting dessert which had a strong flavour profile rather than being a palate cleanser.

This was followed by what is obviously a signature dessert of Milk Cake with Magnolia Ice Cream and White Chocolate. I'm not really a dessert eater but there was nothing left of this.

As one would expect of a restaurant that is co-owned by the somellier, the quality of wine matches was exceptional and some obscure but delicious wines were showcased. I have pictures of them if anyone is interested.

The physical setup of the place with smooth floorboards indicated that the place could be noisy but the strategic use of baffles in the roof and soft furnishings in places such as the lights cut down the noise subsantially.

The service was attentive but not obtrusive and the staff knew their wines and how the dishes were prepared, despite there being complex processes involved.

The flavour combinations were spot on and the textural elements provided a level of interest that made the dishes complex but did not detract from the central them.

To my mind, Brent Savage has used modern techniques in a sensitive manner but has also been true to his classical roots. One informs the other, which is something we shouldn't forget. I'm looking forward with interest as to how he progresses this approach over the years.

We were mightily impressed with the whole experience and would not hesitate to go back.

I would like the malted milk marshmallow please.

Does Wattle refer to the actual wattle from bird? edited to add: i didn't see the answer to this question before I posted.

Edited January 13, 2011 by toolprincess (log)

[heidih]

Off the topic. Since I am out of the loop (Australian culinary scene).

Who is this guy David Thompson?

I saw his restaurant in SGP being staged in Food Channel "Top Chef Master" finale.

A Thai chef!!?

I wish I had a better vocabulary in this regard, but I would say in a few words that he is the Julia Child of Thai cooking though with a very deep emphasis on authenticity- his first book is a true classic. http://www.amazon.com/Thai-Food-David-Thompson/dp/1580084621

[Joel Hicks]

Off the topic. Since I am out of the loop (Australian culinary scene).

Who is this guy David Thompson?

I saw his restaurant in SGP being staged in Food Channel "Top Chef Master" finale.

A Thai chef!!?

I wish I had a better vocabulary in this regard, but I would say in a few words that he is the Julia Child of Thai cooking though with a very deep emphasis on authenticity- his first book is a true classic. http://www.amazon.com/Thai-Food-David-Thompson/dp/1580084621

he is a little more than julia childs.....

he is the first chef to ever gain a michelin star for thai food.

he is also recognised by the thai royal family as an official historian of 'royal thai food', and some would say that he has preserved this style of food from a slow extinction through publishing his book 'Thai Food'. he is gathering and documenting more information on Thai food as i write this

plus he is an all out good bloke!

Joel

[Pierogi]

...Great question on the quantities and thank you. The Aussie dollar is around parity with the US dollar so that removes one source of potential confusion.

Most people from the US would be going shudder at the prices thinking that they are prices per pound.

The prices are per kilo, which is 2.2 pounds. If you divide those prices by 2.2, you will get something you can compare with your every day experiences.

In this reckoning asparagus at $5.50 per kilo works out at $1.14 per pound.

I hope this clears up some of the thoughts that may have led to sharp intakes of breath in the US.

I'm sure Ollie would love to meet Rosie and Lulu as well.

Ahhhhhhh...the difference is the unit of measure.....gotcha. Yes, I was absolutely thinking, OMG, those prices are out of control. I see now the produce prices are pretty much in line with ours, and the if, as you say, the meat and fish markets are high-end, that too, correlates with our Whole Foods (aka Whole Paycheck) or Bristol Farms. Much less scary.

Maybe we need to arrange an intercontinental canine "meet 'n' greet"....? LOL

[Pierogi]

So off to Bentley Restaurant and Bar for dinner tonight....

....We were mightily impressed with the whole experience and would not hesitate to go back.

*That* meal looks absolutely, incredibly amazing. Wow. What I wouldn't give to experience that. Thanks for sharing.

[nickrey]

Your meal at Bentley looks amazing. I also love that sort of food. Can you say something about the duck with cuttlefish main? The combination is intriguing but it's not quite coming together in my head.

The dish worked. If you think about it, it's almost a variant of surf and turf - perhaps dock and loch. Cuttlefish doesn't have a particularly seafood taste when fresh and if you look at the dish it is finely sliced, which means that it is tender but still has a little textural bite (think seaweed type texture).

[nickrey]

Off the topic. Since I am out of the loop (Australian culinary scene).

Who is this guy David Thompson?

I saw his restaurant in SGP being staged in Food Channel "Top Chef Master" finale.

A Thai chef!!?

I wish I had a better vocabulary in this regard, but I would say in a few words that he is the Julia Child of Thai cooking though with a very deep emphasis on authenticity- his first book is a true classic. http://www.amazon.com/Thai-Food-David-Thompson/dp/1580084621

he is a little more than julia childs.....

he is the first chef to ever gain a michelin star for thai food.

he is also recognised by the thai royal family as an official historian of 'royal thai food', and some would say that he has preserved this style of food from a slow extinction through publishing his book 'Thai Food'. he is gathering and documenting more information on Thai food as i write this

plus he is an all out good bloke!

Joel

Way back in the early 90s he started Darley Street Thai, which you may have heard of.

[haresfur]

Aaargh, a PhD in science doesn't stop fat fingers on calculators from making errors. Calculators says... must be true... $5.50 per kilo equals $2.50 per pound (thanks C. Sapidus for spotting this).

Do you think your science background carries over into your approach to cooking or do you want to get away from it? I tend to the latter, but maybe that's why I'm a mediocre cook. Then again my Dad was a good but wild cook and a good scientist...

Thanks for the great and inspiring blog.

[nickloman]

Great blog, enjoying it plenty.

I do think Sydney and Melborne are some of the best places for adventerous foodies to live in the entire world.

Bit jealous!

[nickrey]

You do seem to be blessed with marvelous markets. And you certainly do some marvelous things with the provender from them. Enjoying your blog!

Thanks Kay I appreciate your comment.

[nickrey]

Aaargh, a PhD in science doesn't stop fat fingers on calculators from making errors. Calculators says... must be true... $5.50 per kilo equals $2.50 per pound (thanks C. Sapidus for spotting this).

Do you think your science background carries over into your approach to cooking or do you want to get away from it? I tend to the latter, but maybe that's why I'm a mediocre cook. Then again my Dad was a good but wild cook and a good scientist...

Thanks for the great and inspiring blog.

Judging by the number of scientists lurking on the sous vide thread, it seems that style of cooking must appeal to us.

My training is in psychology so I'm interested in the perception of food as well as the mechanics in terms of producing it.

I suppose it's a bit chicken or egg. Because we're scientifically inclined, some of the cooking approaches really appeal to us.

[nickrey]

Great blog, enjoying it plenty.

I do think Sydney and Melborne are some of the best places for adventerous foodies to live in the entire world.

Bit jealous!

Thanks, come visit!

[nickrey]

Dinner tonight was somewhat less elaborate. Because I was travelling, the prep time was negligible if we wanted to eat before 9pm.

As I said above, we had triple cooked chips. The first boil led to the photo above. The second cook, which was deep frying at around 140C, is pictured below. This went into the fridge this morning awaiting my return this evening.

The fish was flathead. I made up a beer/tempura batter with 1/2 cup Cooper's Sparkling Ale, 1/2 cup flour (about 7/8 plain flour and 1/8 cornflour) and a pinch of salt. Pour the chilled beer over the mixed flour, then stir with a chopstick. If there are flour lumps don't worry about it, they add character to the crust. Dredge the fish through the tempura batter and put it in the deep fryer. Do this by gradually dropping it in such that the batter seals as you do so. There are some great videos on youtube with sushi masters showing how they do it.

The dinner is a bit bereft of colour because I forgot the fresh lemons (although we did have it with lemon juice from some particularly nice lemons, the juice from which I froze into ice cubes and store in the freezer).

Of course, we had the dish with chicken salt. I should note that no chickens are harmed in the making of this salt, which has no added MSG (whatever that means). The ingredient list includes sea salt, rice flour, wheat glucose, soy, food acid, turmeric, herbs and spices, powdered garlic and onion, and soy powder.

Not sure if it's a South Australian thing or whether it's more widespread.

Edited January 13, 2011 by nickrey (log)

[Shelby]

I must find chicken salt, now.

[ChrisTaylor]

You can buy it in Melbourne. It's popular at fish and chip and chicken shops. So I guess it's Australia-wide.

[nickrey]

I promised you more of a review of Bentley Restaurant and Bar than a snapshot fest, so here it is.

Bentley is officially a restaurant and bar and it has the casual and laid back feeling one would expect in such a setting. The refurbishment, which was guided by award-winning Melbourne designer Pascale-Gomes McNabb, certainly sets the scene for the dining and wine experience that followed.

From the time we arrived until we left, we felt looked after without the staff being obtrusive in any way. They greeted us in a professional and welcoming manner and this style extended throughout the whole meal.

The tables are well spaced which gives a feeling of privacy in a public space. You can choose to interact with others or have a romantic dinner for two, which a number of people around us were doing. We did interact with nearby diners commenting mutually on the lovely food, but didn't interrupt the couples.

As noted above I had the degustation menu while my wife chose an entree and main course combination. Rather than leave her sitting without anything while I went through my multiple course extravaganza, they were kind enough to provide her with an additional appetiser, which I also tried. This was the smoked eel parfait with white soy dressing and seaweed that features in their recently released cookbook. It's on my list of dishes to try making.

The food is best described as multi-layered in its taste and texture profile. For example, we both had the ocean trout with ocean trout mousse and fennel pollen. in this dish, the mousse seemed to have a curry flavour that added an extra taste level into the dish without overwhelming it.

The beetroot in the beetroot with horseradish and soy beans dish was loaded with flavour and I thought at first that it had been vacuum infused with extra beetroot juice. It turned out that it was created by combining a puree with a hydrocolloid to make a gel like texture. This was then formed into a sphere in plastic and cooked in a water bath. The product looked like a baby beetroot, had a very strong beetroot taste, but had a softer texture than you'd expect from this root vegetable. Texture contrast was provided by kale, which was pickled in salt and vinegar in an almost sauerkraut or Kim chee style. Additional flavours were provided by confit garlic that had become soft and sweet. Like all the dishes, the combination worked with the flavours resonating of each other to give a very satisfying whole.

For those who have been asking about Australian ingredients, the pork belly course was served with an accompaniment of wattle seeds which provided both part of the taste profile as well as a texture contrast.

Rather than being confronting as can be the case with chefs using modernist cuisine, Brent Savage has been very clever by presenting meals that are recognisable as more conventional cuisine while still making full use of modernist techniques to achieve his desired outcomes. We chatted afterwards and he commented that he has had some dishes that people did find confronting, such as sous vide cooked fish with a flaky texture but only lukewarm serving temperature. As has been commented on in the sous vide thread, this can be confronting even for our omnivorous eGulleters so I can see it being equally if not more so for general diners.

The wine matches were superb and ranged from an organic Sake (made by a female artisan sake maker) that my wife had with her additional appetiser through German spaetlese Riesling to a very enjoyable Adelaide hills Shiraz. The wines matched the dishes superbly; for example, a quite acidic Spanish rose was served with the pork belly. This had the effect of cutting through the fat and richness of the dish.

I had the optional cheese course which comprised creamed stilton served with spice bread and cumquat. The dish reminded me in mouth feel of muesli with yoghurt that I have eaten in the Greek isles. The mousse tasted subtly of Stilton rather than it dominating, which was ideal at this stage of the meal.

The presentation was outstanding across the board; for example, the duck breast was served sliced as overlapping triangles. This was draped over the accompanying cuttlefish and mushroom. The effect was both visually appealing and easy to eat, unlike some of the complex towers that can be found in some high temples of modernist cuisine. The use of cuttlefish in this dish worked well, creating something like a "Dock and Loch" as opposed to a "Surf and Turf."

In all, I'd recommend Brent Savage's cooking wholeheartedly. Although sometimes the label “molecular cook” or “modernist cook” can be a double edged sword, his very clever and artistic use of all cooking styles means that he is not a one-trick pony.

The food is matched with equal passion by Nick Hildebrant's eclectic choices of beverages. The combination of the two with attentive but unobtrusive service made for a truly memorable experience. We will definitely return.

Edited January 13, 2011 by nickrey (log)

[manwith8ovens]

Off the topic. Since I am out of the loop (Australian culinary scene).

Who is this guy David Thompson?

I saw his restaurant in SGP being staged in Food Channel "Top Chef Master" finale.

A Thai chef!!?

I wish I had a better vocabulary in this regard, but I would say in a few words that he is the Julia Child of Thai cooking though with a very deep emphasis on authenticity- his first book is a true classic. http://www.amazon.com/Thai-Food-David-Thompson/dp/1580084621

Thanks. I know Thompson (Jim) is famous for Thai silk now I know there is another Thompson famous for Thai food!