Cocktailian Ingredient Trends

[slkinsey]

Peach Brandy is at the top of my list, like everyone else, but while we're at it -- how 'bout more aged eaux de vie? +1 for "more base spirits".

I have been given to understand that, due to the profitability of selling peaches via modern shipping combined with the somewhat tricky fermentation/distillation requirements of peaches, it's extremely unlikely this will happen on any level above small batch, artisanal and expensive.

As for aged eaux de vie, what do you have in mind? There are plenty of aged grappas on the market. And some of the apple brandys (e.g., Clear Creek's) are aged eaux de vie. But it's not clear to me that, say, kirschwasser or some of the other eaux de vie would benefit from wood aging. The flavors are usually etherial enough that I think they would be largely obscured by aging in wood. An aged pear brandy would be good.

I don't think we're exactly hitting the mark in thinking about an aged eau de vie. "Eau de vie" typically implies a lean, super-clean, largely aromatic distillation process that most often results in a product that I don't think would take well to wood aging. Spirits that are destined for a few years in the barrel, I think, benefit from a lower proof, "dirtier" but significantly "fatter" and fuller-flavored distillation. That way the wood aging filters out the roughness and the good flavor remains.

I think aromatic/fortified wines as a category could provide a lot of intrigue too. We have, what, half a dozen popular products in this category, and how many interesting wines in the world? Do the math.

If we're just talking about the most highly regarded products we have (or soon will have) Bonal Gentiane Quina, Carpano Antica Formula, Carpano Punt e Mes, Cocchi Aperitivo Americano, Cinzano Sweet, Dolin Blanc, Dolin Dry, Dolin Rouge, Dubonnet Blond, Dubonet Rouge, Lillet Blanc, Lillet Rouge, Marteletti Classico, Martini & Rossi Bianco, Martini & Rossi Sweet, Noilly Pratt Dry, Rin Quin Quin, Vya Dry, Vya Sweet -- plus any number of vini chinati such as Cocchi Barolo Chinato, Vergano Nebbiolo Chinato and Vergano Chinato Americano, not to mention things like Mirto di Sardegna. We could have more (Noilly Pratt Ambre would be nice), but I think we're doing okay in this category.

[Kent Wang]

A decent, popularly-priced Mezcal would be great too.

Yes, please.

I brought back two very interesting agave nectars from Mexico this trip -- all the ones I have tried here have been insipid.

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Interesting. How did they get their added flavor? I just assumed agave syrup was fairly uniform. Is it more like honey, where much depends on the way it's grown?

[slkinsey]

On Aug 20 2009, 10:41 AM, Kent Wang said:

On Aug 19 2009, 11:29 PM, David Santucci said:

A decent, popularly-priced Mezcal would be great too.

Yes, please.

Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you.

From this post in the Mezcal thread:

On Aug 18 2009, 09:28 PM, chrisamirault said:

That Real de Magueyes Añejo Mezcal is fantastic, and for less than $30, a steal.

Edited August 20, 2009 by slkinsey (log)

[haresfur]

I have been given to understand that, due to the profitability of selling peaches via modern shipping combined with the somewhat tricky fermentation/distillation requirements of peaches, it's extremely unlikely this will happen on any level above small batch, artisanal and expensive.

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Heck, I think what you are asking for is pretty much by definition "small batch, artisanal and expensive." Not necessarily implying snobbery but, face it, the vast majority of the market doesn't share the cocktail passion and is happy enough with drinks that disguise their basic spirits.

Unless there is some untapped source of booze that is extremely popular in some other part of the world so it is already produced in large amounts, then you are looking at a variation on an existing theme like more kinds of x, or something that will rotate in for last year's fad, or a small supplement for the cocktail subculture.

I suppose the other option is to figure out good things to do with underutilized spirits. Maybe rather than supercilious jabs at Canadian whiskey, someone could figure out a way to highlight the spirit without it getting lost (as I've said before, I rather like my Tangle Ridge). Maybe something that appeals to the Crown Royal drinker would get them interested in Alberta Premium and thence onto other experiences. Or for a real challenge find a good way to use Bacardi.

[David Santucci]

Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you.

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Awesome, thanks Sam. Added to shoping list.

If we're just talking about the most highly regarded products ... I think we're doing okay in this category.

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I'm not complaining about the products we have, I'm just saying there is plenty of room for cool new stuff in the wine-based category.

I guess my take is this: there are going to be new products, that is just a reality of the market. So, if it were up to me, I'd rather they were made by people putting new things into a still, playing with barrel aging, playing with interesting wine varietals -- rather than just putting out a new flavored vodka/liqueur featuring lemongrass or acai or whatever the ingredient du jour happens to be. Or cranking out another "21st century gin" for that matter. I want to see people get creative; I want to taste the fruits of the earth. I'd also like to see more lesser-known, regional (and funky) products from around the globe.

I would love to try more Grappas. The cost holds me back a bit, I admit. I'd like to set up a still and try distilling some different kinds of wines one of these days.

In any case, it is certainly a good time to be a cocktail geek. I have a huge list of products I still "need to try", and there are more on the way...

Edited August 21, 2009 by David Santucci (log)

[David Santucci]

Interesting. How did they get their added flavor? I just assumed agave syrup was fairly uniform. Is it more like honey, where much depends on the way it's grown?

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I'm not sure, but I think it might be in how they process it. Here, agave syrup seems to be marketed as a sugar substitute, and as such the ones I've tried have had a pretty neutral, sweet flavor. In Mexico, miel de agave just has more agave flavor, so I'm guessing it's less refined.

Even by Mexican standards, the first one I brought back (Molino Real, comes in a fancy bottle) is exceptionally flavorful. The second (labeled "miel de maguey", by the brand Nutrition) is a different beast altogether. Essentially, it is agave molasses: thick, black, with lots of cooked flavor.

Edited August 21, 2009 by David Santucci (log)

[Kent Wang]

Agave syrup would be much easier to import than alcohol, red-tape-wise. Maybe you should give it a shot. Hell, just bring over a couple bottles and I'll buy a few from you.

My guy at Spec's says Smith & Cross (the Jamaica rum) and Cocchi Americano should be arriving in about a month. I'd imagine New York and California would get it even earlier.

Edited September 12, 2009 by Kent Wang (log)

[alacarte]

If you want to talk trends, I agree with KD that we're seeing more tea infusions. And sweet tea - every time I turn around it seems another commercial sweet tea liqueur is being rolled out.

but I'm not aware of any historical tea liquors that could be a revival product like batavia arrack, etc.