Using Salt Packed Anchovies in Cooking

[Calw]

I had some nice replies to my querry on Lamb, which two people (thx Dave Hatfield & Michael B) suggested to add anchovies - wrapped up in the leg during roasting. I had planned to work in some anchovies so the suggestion was perfect! I've also heard of them being worked into stocks, etc.

Saw there was a string in 02 on anchovies, but it went another direction.

So just how far do they go? I will soak them in milk first, but will 2 be enough for a quart of well reduced stock? or will that be too much? Any tips?

What about a size of meat like a leg? Is 2 enough? I have heard they dissolve into what ever they are in.

[Chris Amirault]

You need to experiment. If you want that rich, umami background flavor, then one or two can often be enough. for something that requires a more noticeable anchovy flavor -- puttanesca sauce, say -- you'd add more. In addition, anchovies vary widely in size and flavor. Try some different options and see what you like!

[dougal]

I've always used tinned, oil-packed (usually skinless) anchovy fillets for use as though 'larding' beef and lamb.

They 'melt away' just as they do in sauce-making.

Does the same really happen with salt-packed anchovies ?

I've had the impression that those were favoured when you didn't want them to disappear.

[jayt90]

I use oil packed, and they are just salty enough, adding 2 or 3, to make a pleasant addition that can't be detected.

I also use fish sauce sometimes, instead of anchovies; frequently it is "Golden Boy" and I can add a teaspoon at a time until I think there is a good effect without adding salt or fish flavor.

Edited March 7, 2009 by jayt90 (log)

[Chris Amirault]

I've always used tinned, oil-packed (usually skinless) anchovy fillets for use as though 'larding' beef and lamb.

They 'melt away' just as they do in sauce-making.

Does the same really happen with salt-packed anchovies ?

I've had the impression that those were favoured when you didn't want them to disappear.

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Salt-packed anchovies have greater integrity than oil-packed fillets in general, but remember that they're not boned (or, I guess, spined), so that helps. A few minutes in hot oil and they break down just fine -- and you can snack on the backbones you pushed to the side of the pan to crisp up.

[Jim Dixon]

Salt-packed anchovies aren't any more apparent in dishes than the oil-packed version if you use them the same way, but I think the depth of flavor they provide is more complex and just plain better.

I buy the large round tins at a local specialty food shop, transfer the anchovies to glass container, and keep them the refrigerator for months. They do require a little more work, but it only takes a few seconds to rinse, split, and debone the anchovies under running water. I usually chop them finely and add them to skillet with the garlic when I'm making something that starts with an aromatic base.

If you're making something where you want that pronounced flavor, the salt packed anchovies are cleaner tasting than the oil-packed.

I've never soaked anchovies of any kind in milk. Seems like an unnecessary step.

Jim

[Calw]

Here in the Easy Bay (Berkeley/Oakland) we have at least one place (Market Hall) that sell them by the fish. So 2 fish ran 84¢ ! Was glad to find them this way because I really did not want to get into a whole can at this point.

[Dave Hatfield]

Here in the Easy Bay (Berkeley/Oakland) we have at least one place (Market Hall) that sell them by the fish.  So 2 fish ran 84¢ !  Was glad to find them this way because I really did not want to get into a whole can at this point.

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Wow! They must be gigantic anchovies to cost 42 cents apiece.

As to salt or oil packed, I've used both for lamb with equally good results. If using salt packed just cut down or eliminate any other salt.

For a tunnel boned leg of say about 4 lbs net I'd use 2 fillets inside and about 3 across the top at roughly 11/2 inch intervals.

[Calw]

Well, at the price I considered it a bargain, because I did not have to deal with the rest. I expect to pay a premium when I buy eaches. - Much less per pound than vanilla beans - that's for sure. So at $12.95/lb, I was not complaining. And yes they are pretty big - so in terms of using them, I likely have more than enough for the leg.

[budrichard]

The larger salt packed ones are really sardines but are handled essentilly the same as Posted by Jim Dixon.-Dick