Paris Wine Bars

[Bux]

Are Willi's or Les Papilles wine bars?

Is Willi's Wine Bar a wine bar? I suppose you can't judge a book by its name. I've only been in there once and it was too crowded to stay long. I might have decsribed it as a scene more than a wine bar or restaurant. It's certainly a very different sort of place than Juvenile's around the corner and the two are often mentioned in the same breath. What makes a wine bar? Le Nemrod on Chèrche-Midi in the sixth has a plaque on the wall declaring it was named wine bar of the year back in the nineties sometime. It's been a local café for us when we're in the area. We've met friends, had beers and coffee on the terrasse. We've also had croissants and coffee at the bar for breakfast and even a salad or sausage with aligot for an informal lunch. It does offer a nice selection, particularly of beaujolais by the glass or carafe.

I've never heard the "Willi's" without the "Wine Bar" and I'm definitely conditioned to think of it as a quintessential wine bar. On the other hand I was flabbergasted when someone referred to Gramercy Tavern in NY as a tavern and not a restaurant.

[Le Zouave]

Zouve - You've raised an interesting issue because to my eye and Figaroscope's reviewers, both the Taverne Henri IV and Temps au Temps are restaurants yet Lobrano called them wine bars in Where. Are Willi's or Les Papilles wine bars? and Le Vin dans les Voiles was reviewed as a restaurant but when I went the patron was clear it was a wine bar serving a few dishes only.

As far as i'm concerned, John, a wine bar is a place where you drink more than you eat! Seriously, I guess a wine bar is a place where you can just have a couple of drinks without having to order some food. La Muse Vin, in the 11th, for instance, is a pure wine bar. And to be even more specefic, I'd say the Taverne Henri IV is a nice bistrot with an interesting wine list, the Temps au temps a small and lovely place with some fine wines written on the ardoises. But I'd never say that place is a wine bar -- or maybe did I miss soomething last time I was there?

Now, for all the other places you've mentioned. Willi's: sort of a wine bar, since you can have a drink around 6PM at the bar, and even later. I love the place, but I wouldn't call it a wine bar -- I mean, a bar à vins, the way the French mean.

les Papilles? Yes, why not, although I havn't seen many people having a glass of white at the (tiny, tiny, tiny) bar. I'd say it's a great bistro with great bottles to share.

Le Vin dans les Voiles: OK, if the boss says he's a wine bar, why not? I don't agree at all, for the place lacks the atmosphere every wine bar should have. (and btw, he does serve more than "a few dishes only", if that's what he told you...)

What's a wine bar? Do you guys remember the "Moulin à vins", in the 18th? To me, that was the wine bar in Paris. The other places I like a lot are the Juveniles, le Baratin, the Verre Volé, of course, la petite syrah in the 18th (just for the wines, not for the food), Fish, Jacques Melac and probably some more... Well, I guess you already know all these places, don'y you?

[John Talbott]

I might have decsribed it as a scene more than a wine bar or restaurant.

Ah Bux, you're a genius - a scene. That's straight from the memories of Maxwell's Plum I'll bet.

[Freckles]

  The other places I like a lot are the Juveniles, le Baratin, the Verre Volé, of course, la petite syrah in the 18th (just for the wines, not for the food), Fish, Jacques Melac and probably some more... Well, I guess you already know all these places, don'y you? 

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No! I don't know ANY of these places! Please, keep 'em coming. I'm rarin' to go and can't wait for work to calm down so I can start sampling Les Wine Bars de Paris...

[Bux]

No!  I don't know ANY of these places!  Please, keep 'em coming.  I'm rarin' to go and can't wait for work to calm down so I can start sampling Les Wine Bars de Paris...

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Fish is a rather interesting little restaurant with what I think of as a bar americain, especialy as it seems to have a contingent of ex-pat clients--or did the night we had dinner there. The owner is a Cuban-American and also owns a nice little wine shop more or less around the corner. Alas the name of the shop elludes me at the moment and I'm at a friend's computer without access to my files. As we had been introduced to one of the "bar flies" earlier in the day at a neighboring cafe by a mutual acquaintance and as an eGullet member was tending the bar that evening, we took our dessert at the bar and stayed longer than we had anticipated with dessert wines and brandies. The bar crowd seemed to operate quite separately from the dinner table crowd with the exception of our move.

Has anyone mentioned Legrande in the Gallerie Vivienne? -- at least I think that's the name of the gallerie in the first arrondissement. It's a nice place for a light lunch/snack as well as for a few glasses of wine. It's not open in the evening.

[Carlsbad]

Has anyone tried Le Cafe du Passage, a wine bar in the 11th? We had a glass of wine there a few years back and found it charming and the food looked interesting, but we have never been back.

We tried to lunch at Fish in June, but we got there after they had stopped serving. We went across the street to Cosi, an old favorite for a quick lunch, and had a delightful sandwich on freshly baked foccacia. I believe that the owner of Cosi co-owns Fish, along with M. Sanchez, the aforementioned Cuban-American.

[Le Zouave]

Juan Sanchez's wine shop is la Dernière Goutte, rue Bourbon le Chateau: anyone at Fish will give you the exact address -- it's a one minute walk.

I went to the Café du Passage last june or july -- I used to have drinks there (the wine list is great), but never tried there food. I was a nice surprise (can't remember everything except some fabulous cheese, and a... hot dog!) and we had some great time.

btw, havn't been to les Caves Legrand, in the galerie Vivienne, since last year: I really loved it (you can pick your bottle in the shop). Food's quite simple but comes from the best producers (I had charcuteries I still remember).

[Felice]

Well, I had to chime in about Fish since I'm the egulleter who was working the bar when Bux was in. I don't work there any longer though, except every once in a while when they are short-handed and really need someone, since I've gotten a 9-5 type job. But, it really is a fun place and the food is great as well. It's the perfect place to go alone as you can sit at the bar, eat a small plate or a full dinner with a glass of wine and you'll always find someone to talk with if you want. And it's open on Sunday. The clientel is an interesting mix of expats, tourists, and people from the neighborhood.

La Dernier Goutte is just around the corner at 6 rue de Bourdon le Chateau. It's such a tiny street though that you can't miss it and it's right on the corner.

Has anyone mentionned le Baron Bouge near the marché d'Aligre? On Sundays it's so popular that the crowd spills onto the street.

[dlc]

I too have enjoyed Cafe du Passage. Especially a boudin noir and apple tart with a lovely cote du rhone about a year ago

[John Talbott]

You may already have seen, but yesterday's Figaroscope had several more that have newly opened: Le Chapeau Melon, a wine bar/charcuterie/cheeseboard place run by Olivier Camus at 92, rue Rébeval in the 19th, 01.42.02.68.60, and two bistros à vins: le Panta- gruel, 26, rue Berthollet in the 5th, 01.47.07.09.85, and L’Honoré, 13, rue Bosio in the 16th, 01.42.88. 12.12.

[Bux]

Has anyone mentionned le Baron Bouge near the marché d'Aligre?  On Sundays it's so popular that the crowd spills onto the street.

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Le Baron Bouge is a very interesting place. Everyone should visit it at least once. It's a tiny place and I thought everyone was there when we went. Between the people and the smoke, I could barely make it to the bar and back outside with our glasses of wine where someone was opening oysters at a rapid rate while everyone who couldn't fit within the bar was happily enjoying oysters standing in the street, sitting on stoops, balancing plates and glasses on window sills and parked cars. I don't remember if it was Sunday or not.

[John Talbott]

This is from the Secrets of Paris Newsletter #51, dated today, which I've edited to avoid copyright issues: "Terry and Maureen('s).....favorite is La Tartine" (despite follonica2's note above that's it's totally changed). Also mentioned are the Taverne Henri IV and Le Gavroche; all I think were mentioned already.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

The Couleurs de Vigne is tiny and wonderful.  The walls are green and there are only about 6 small tables in the whole place.  It`s run by a guy who used to be a banker then retired and started this place for the joy of it.  He is chatty, welcoming, relaxed and very helpful.  It`s not 2 minutes on foot from the Cordon Bleu.  The menu is very limited but tasty.

This is what egulleter LKL Chu wrote about it last spring in this forum

``It's a fairly new, beautiful little wine cafe/shop. The owner's a retired banker who decided to bring some of his country house life to the city. He's so cool - always totally patient with our rowdy crowds.``

To read a bit more and get the address, check out this link.

http://parisvoice.com/03/nov/html/food/fooddrink.cfm

We tried Couleurs de Vigne for a light dinner a couple of weeks ago. It is as Freckles and Lou describe it. The owner is tremendously charming; his welcome is generous. You will find much more "from the heart" food at other more food-oriented wine bars, but our dinner was nicely presented, delicious, plenty. My husband opted for a cold plate of gaspacho, 4 rounds of a good goat cheese, probably 3 slices of Basque ham; I had a fine pot of cassoulet. Surprisingly there is no corkage charged; you pay shelf price for whatever you drink. Our total tab for food and wine was...29.5 euros! We were amply stuffed and well cossetted by the owner, who urged our return when he saw us out.

I should add that while we were having dinner, probably several dozen people from the neighborhood wandered in for conversation and a glass or purchase for an evening at home. Sweet place.

[Carlsbad]

The Paris Voice article also spoke of another favorite wine bar of ours- Sancerre. A warm welcome, atmosphere, nice wines, and good food, especially the omelettes.

[Ocean_islands]

I just got back from Paris.

Yes, la Tartine has changed. But it's still great. They took all the nicotine and tar off the walls and opened up the back to make room for cafe/restau tables.

The only thing I really miss are the wise-cracking saucy dames who used to run the place.

Edited October 6, 2004 by Ocean_islands (log)

[Felice]

I love Caves Miard in the 6th, but it's NEVER mentionned in any quides for some reason.  It's a beautiful old cremerie which has been transformed into a tiny wine shop/wine bar.  They only have a few tables, so I suppose it's good that it's not very well known.  They serve small plates like wonderful cured ham that they slice in front of you and different cheeses. 

Caves Miard

9 rue 4 Vents

75006 M:  Odeon

Open: Monday-Saturday

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I was always surprised that this little wine bar in the 6th hasn't received much press. Well they were just written up in both the Figaroscope and Zurban this week. They only seat about 10-12 and I've never had a problem getting a table before...

I guess that's about to change.

Here's the figaroscope article:

Figaroscope

Edited January 24, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

I love Caves Miard in the 6th,

..... Well they were just written up in both the Figaroscope and Zurban this week. 

Here's the figaroscope article:

Figaroscope

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For the subheadline-challenged, like myself, readers should note that in the Figaroscope Dossier, the Caves Miard is titled La Crémerie even though the accompanying photo shows the Miard in the window. Zurban, on the other hand, entitles the review Les caves Miard.

Edited by John Talbott to correct misspellings.

[raisab]

We tried Couleurs de Vigne for a light dinner a couple of weeks ago.  It is as Freckles and Lou describe it.  The owner is tremendously charming; his welcome is generous. 

WE went to Couleurs de Vigne this past Tuesday, just for a bit of wine. The owner advised us he was complet, with the first table arriving at 20:00. I told him not to worry as we still had 45 minutes. What a sweet man! We had a delicious Chateauneuf du Pape and a plate de Charcuterie between 4 of us. It came to 24 euros.

As we were leaving he came rushing to put my shawl on me and kiss me goodbye. ( was the only female in the group) If he hadn't won me over already he would of right there and then. I can't wait to return and have dinner there.

Does anyone know what time his last seating is at? I forgot to ask!

[pierre45]

We tried Couleurs de Vigne for a light dinner a couple of weeks ago.  It is as Freckles and Lou describe it.  The owner is tremendously charming; his welcome is generous. 

WE went to Couleurs de Vigne this past Tuesday, just for a bit of wine. The owner advised us he was complet, with the first table arriving at 20:00. I told him not to worry as we still had 45 minutes. What a sweet man! We had a delicious Chateauneuf du Pape and a plate de Charcuterie between 4 of us. It came to 24 euros.

As we were leaving he came rushing to put my shawl on me and kiss me goodbye. ( was the only female in the group) If he hadn't won me over already he would of right there and then. I can't wait to return and have dinner there.

Does anyone know what time his last seating is at? I forgot to ask!

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They don't have specific seatings.People walk in and out all the time to buy wine since its a neighborhood place and its really not a restaurant.The best thing is to call to make sure that have room.I agree that the owner is a nice man . His wife who's a corp lawyer is very charming and warm and helps by cleaning the dishes.

When i asked her why is she doing this.She said "On fait tout quand on est amoureux.

[John Talbott]

In my weekly work for the Digest I came across a 2003 list of places in which to try Beaujolais Nouveau at the Paris Voice website. Many have been mentioned on this thread already but for what it's worth, they are:

Couleurs de Vigne

Taverne Henri IV

Aux Bons Crus

Le Baron Rouge

Le Sancerre

La Tartine

Le Rubis

Cave La Bourgogne

Bistrot des Augustins

Whoops, here's her 2004 addition

Juveniles

Edited by John Talbott several times for completeness.

[John Talbott]

Just to keep the record up to date, I’m putting this also up on the “Wine Bar” thread because despite the fact that it’ll appear in the Digest much later this week, Sébastien Demorand wrote such an enthusiastic review of a bar à vins in Zurban today that it deserves to be on the list. It’s called Les Coteaux and it’s in Saint Mandé, 8, rue Jeanne d’Arc {Note: 4 long blocks South or a few stops on the #86 bus from the #1 St Mandé Tourelle Metro stop} 01 48 08 74 81 serving Chiroubles, Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, Fleurie and Chénas as well as sausages, cheese, head cheese, “polka terrine” and calf’s head like an andouillette. You may recognize the name because the patron & spouse were over on the boulevard Garibaldi in the 15th before.

[Freckles]

Thanks!

[John Talbott]

To revive and keep this great thread going, I'll add that Jean-Luc Petitrenaud, in ”Saveurs” in L’Express, writes about a wine bar: Le Petit Verdot , 9 rue Fourcroy in the 17th, 01.42.27.47.42 serving big plates of sausage, rillettes, parsleyed ham, etc, a la carte 19 Euros.

[Freckles]

Terrific! I'm embarrassed to say that I've done a very poor job of exploring these so far; I've been terrible busy with work, travel, guests, etc. But so many great suggestions; can't wait to check them out! Thanks for all your input. And, please do continue to add to the list...

[John Talbott]

I forget if anyone's mentioned this one, I don't see it above; I found it scanning stuff for the Digest this week:

Heather Stimmler at Secrets of Paris recommends a “lovely wine bistro” La Robe et Le Palais, 13, rue des Lavandières- Ste-Opportune in the 1st near the Chatelet, 01.45.08.07.41 with over 250 wines and one wine of the day. She loved the pumpkin soup.