Tokyo Restaurants: Reviews & Recs

[mkjr]

Just a quick note - we stayed at Granvia in Kyoto this March and really enjoyed the stay there.  Be sure to go to their top bar (don't rember which floor, but high) for great view of Kyoto, live music and good drinks.

←

We went to one of the bars in the Granvia - and they do have a cover charge (not unusual in Japan). About $5 a person. Not a reason not to go - it's just something that a potential customer should keep in mind. Robyn

←

Keep in mind also between 5-7 is happy hour in one of the bars when all no bottles are 50% off. You can get a outstanding glass of scotch for only 6 bucks which is a steal. not sure the name but the big add make sure you can not miss it at the Granvia. I partook many times.

[robyn]

I hope Robyn won't mind me adding a few comments to her excellent overview, not intended as contradictions, as such, but where my experiences diverge from hers.

Subways/rail

Yes they can be terribly crowded, but I think that's part of the fun of getting around in Tokyo, and it's the way that most locals do it. You can also heave a sigh of relief that it's not part of your daily commute. And usually, it's the easiest route to your restaurant. I hardly use taxis at all in Tokyo, though if you're planning on being out past 11.30 at night, you'll need them.

Toronto is a large city - but Tokyo is *huge* - largest city in the world (about 35 million people) - with - reportedly - over 100,000 restaurants. I read a lot of western media stuff about Tokyo restaurants before we left - and I think most media people from the west tend to go to the same 25 restaurants. Which is a shame - very limiting.

That's a really good point. Visitors should really try something a little outside the travel-guide recommendations. Tokyo is a great city for exploring the food scene, and few travel guides cover it at all well. Also be extremely suspicious if any recommendation claims a particular restaurant is the best of its type in Tokyo, or has the best [insert dish/food ingredient here] in the city.

I think Metropolis and Tokyo Food Pages do a pretty good job, because they're based in Japan and their reviewers seem to know their food. I suggest you also try at least one or two places on your own initiative. Ebisu/Daikanyama would be a good place to start, although there are so many other possibilities across the city. There is of course a lot of cloning, but there are many, many restaurants dedicated to turning out the best damn food they can, and they don't all charge a lot for the privilege, either.

And we tried to avoid the thousands of restaurants that specialize in non-Japanese food (although we did have some great Korean BBQ). Simply because we wanted to learn about Japanese food on this trip - and not how the Japanese can do strange things with other cuisines (like Italian food). Who knew the Japanese had such a fascination with mayonnaise?

I can sympathize with anyone who wants to eat Japanese only, though it's not my policy when I travel to restrict myself to the local food. And it would only be fair to mention that the quality of Italian and French food available in Tokyo can be high. Really, really high. There are dozens of high-end Italian places across the city, and many more that are inexpensive but still extremely good. Laugh if you like, but try it first, and then let's talk about mayonnaise.

If you are going to a high-end non-plastic food restaurant - most have fixed menus. And - if you don't speak any Japanese - it is good to ask the concierge to call the restaurant and explain the different fixed menus before you get to the restaurant - and to pre-order the one you want. I cannot over-emphasize how little English is spoken in Japan - even in restaurants.

Not many of the places I go to have fixed menus. And in addition to their a la carte choices, there are daily specials - no surprise there, really - which are well worth exploring, as Japan still highly values the fresh and the seasonal. So I personally wouldn't want to order ahead, but mainly because I hate the idea of my food being decided before I've even left for the restaurant.

A last couple of things that occurred to me, not related to Robyn's comments: for anyone in the habit of bar hopping, it's standard practice for a bar to accommodate only as many customers as there are seats in the bar. Bars often turn away customers they can't seat - a combination probably of not wanting to be overcrowded, and wanting to give the customers already there the best service they can. You will soon get the hang of which places allow standing customers and which don't. And there are of course the tachinomi bars, for standing-only - also worth checking out.

And I don't think anyone mentioned Obon yet, but if your August trip coincides with it, some places may close for up to a few days. There'll be a multitude of alternative choices though, so I'd say it's barely a consideration.

←

After spending 3 weeks in Japan as a tourist - I am certainly not an expert. I'm sure potential visitors will want to hear as much as possible from as many people as possible.

We went almost everywhere on the subway system in Tokyo - which is very easy to navigate - and almost always quite pleasant - but were told to avoid rush hour if possible. Which we did. We observed rush hours both in Tokyo and Kyoto (didn't get on any subways or trains) - and it is a very athletic way to commute . Wouldn't recommend it for people like my husband (who wears a knee brace) - people with luggage or small children - etc.

I realize that there are probably thousands of excellent restaurants in Tokyo that specialize in non-Japanese food (including places like L'Osier - whose kitchen is run by the chef who used to be at the Ritz Carlton in Buckhead). It was simply a personal decision to use our trip as a way to learn about Japanese food.

When talking about the set menus - I am talking about a couple of higher end restaurants - kaiseki and the like - that had perhaps 3 or 4 fixed menus (ranging from perhaps $125/pp to $200/pp). There were probably some things we missed as a result of the way we approached these restaurants. But - particularly in a city like Osaka - where we found almost nothing written in English - or people who spoke English - it was a reasonable way to approach things. On the other hand - in most restaurants - we just kind of took our chances. Robyn

[robyn]

....Toronto is a large city - but Tokyo is *huge* - largest city in the world (about 35 million people) - with - reportedly - over 100,000 restaurants. 

←

Sure its large and its hard to get around but it is not that large (would love to know where you get the 35M?). Even taking into consideration Yokohama only gets you to maybe 16M. Central is only around 9.

That said to the OP, if you have concerns about getting lost, pick up a copy of the Tokyo City Atlas (its bilingual) and its pretty easy to navigate what many out there call unnavigatable. Sure finding the last block number can be a little tough but its a little overstated IMO. Its pretty hard to get lost in Kyoto.

EDITED TO ADD *** I think I found out that if you look at the huge area that surrounds Tokyo you can get to 35M*** That said, I think that you should really look at central Tokyo as a measure***

←

The 35 million refers to the Tokyo metro area - not the city of Tokyo standing alone. This was my source. The Tokyo metro area is almost twice as large as the 2nd largest (Mexico City).

I really wouldn't worry about getting lost as long as you stay within the area serviced by the subway. All you have to do is go down into the subway to find your way home. Robyn

[Eduardo]

Well guys, thank you very much for all the information. Can't wait to go!!

[dharold]

One really interesting thing to try is chanko-nabe, a hot pot that's cooked at your table and is favoured by sumo wrestlers bulking up. It's far more delicious and interesting than that sounds and a Japanese culinary experience that's not travelled as widely as sushi.

The one I went to is: http://www.dreamark.co.jp/waka/e_index.html

I tried the Yokohama one, which was excellent, but they have outlets in Tokyo proper too. I know, it's a chain, but it really doesn't feel like one...

[Ylee]

^^^Robyn does a nice job of summing up the situation in Tokyo. Great advice.

You might also want to investigate ramen, of which there are a dizzying array of styles and options in Tokyo, and find a shop that makes teuchi (handmade) soba.

The Western pastry scene in Japan can also hold its own, if you are interested in desserts.

←

Can you please expand on the pastry scene bit? I'm going to Tokyo/Kyoto in October and am also interested in any food recommendations, especially pastries.

Like Hidemi Sugino and Sadaharu Aoki, for example.

[Lucil]

u would like to try www.atessouhaits.co.jp

[Ylee]

u would like to try www.atessouhaits.co.jp

←

Thanks! Very wow-looking sweets!

[Hiroyuki]

^^^Robyn does a nice job of summing up the situation in Tokyo. Great advice.

You might also want to investigate ramen, of which there are a dizzying array of styles and options in Tokyo, and find a shop that makes teuchi (handmade) soba.

The Western pastry scene in Japan can also hold its own, if you are interested in desserts.

←

Can you please expand on the pastry scene bit? I'm going to Tokyo/Kyoto in October and am also interested in any food recommendations, especially pastries.

Like Hidemi Sugino and Sadaharu Aoki, for example.

←

I know little about these things.

This blog has some very nice pictures of their pastries.

Pastries from Aoki's shop in Marunouchi

http://camille31.exblog.jp/3219191

Pastries from Sugino's shop in Kyobashi

http://camille31.exblog.jp/3040217

[raji]

Hi, I'm going to Japan this coming August and I’m quiet lost about restaurants to go. I would really appreciate if you guys could give me some advice, in all ranges. We will be four days in each city, so we have plenty time to visit several places.

Thanks in advance. It would be a real pity to go so far away and skip the best places!! I promise to give advice back if you ever come to Spain 

←

Are you still checking this thread with ample time left? If so, post, and I'll reply with a full list of my haunts in Tokyo.

[The Blissful Glutton]

I am heading there in September and would appreciate you posting your list.

Thanks.

[Eduardo]

We have just got back from our trip. The food has been amazing. Most of the times we just walked in at the places that seemed attractive and we didn't failed in any of them. So that should be, in my opinion, the starting point for someone visiting Japan for the first time.

We have found out that both Tokyo and Kyoto have a plenty number of very good restaurants in the mid price range, and that it isn’t necessary to expend a hole amount of money to have a very good meal.

That said, we have visited some more expensive restaurants that I would never miss if you can afford them:

For sushi and sashimi in Tokyo, we had a fabulous dinner at Kybuei. Amazing product. Pure and really delicate. There you see the diference between a sushi man and a good sushiman. The cut of the fish is just another world. Dinner for two, with all the sushi and sashimi in the world, and beer 70000 yen

For Tempura in Kyoto, Edon is the place. Best tempura in my life. Everything is delicious, but you have to ask for the sweet corn tempura. Incredible. Dinner for two with a cheap white wine 30000 yen

For a more eclectic meal, and unforgettable experience, Masuda in Kyoto is the place. We had a fantastic time with Takashi Masuda, the owner and chef. What a personality. Great fun, and a dinner to remember. Perfect balance between tradition and a more modern cuisine. Tiny place (6 sits at the counter) and a large menu from Mr. Masuda. Best product and cero artificial effects. If you look for fire rockets in four plate, this is not your place. Dinner for 2 60000 yen with wine, shake and whisky

Thanks to all of you for your help

[sanrensho]

We have just got back from our trip. The food has been amazing.

It sounds like your trip was a good one. Personally, I would like to hear what you thought about the pastries that you had during your trip (and which shops you tried), since you mentioned it was one of your interests.

Edited August 28, 2007 by sanrensho (log)

[Ohba]

Shit, man, you blew some serious cash!

[prasantrin]

Where are Masuda and Edon located? I couldn't find information on either of them.

[Eduardo]

Endo was quite easy to find by our concierge at the hotel. On the opposite, it was hard to reach Masuda, even though we had the telephone number. Give me a couple of days (I don't have the information with me at this moment) and I will post it.

Edited August 30, 2007 by Eduardo (log)

[Eduardo]

Sorry guys, the tempura place in Kyoto is Endo, not Edon and if I’m not wrong it was in the Sanjo Marutamachi area. Don't have any other details with me.

Masuda is close to Shijo and the telephone number is 7-5361-1508. The street reference that I got from a press review (I'm not sure if its valid) is as follows: Miyukicho Nishi Iru, Matsudabara dori, Shimogyou-Ku.

Sanrensho, it wasn't me mentioning the pastries. Even though, its true that it's impossible to leave any of their shopping centres without getting one. The way the make the occidental cakes and desserts is incredible. I didn't like most of the Japanese pastries that much. To sweet and heavy for my taste. The shops at Tokyo an Kyoto Station were great, but nothing compared to the ones at Daimaru in Kyoto...

[prasantrin]

Sorry guys, the tempura place in Kyoto is Endo, not Edon and if I’m not wrong it was in the Sanjo Marutamachi area. Don't have any other details with me.

Thanks! Was this the place? http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/k461300/

Masuda is close to Shijo and the telephone number is 7-5361-1508. The street reference that I got from a press review (I'm not sure if its valid) is as follows: Miyukicho Nishi Iru, Matsudabara dori, Shimogyou-Ku.

←

found it! It sounds like a great place, and the websites I found for it have maps!

Glad you had a great time in Kyoto. It's a very special place to me (my first home in Japan), and I love it when other people love it, too!

[sanrensho]

Sanrensho, it wasn't me mentioning the pastries.

Whoops! You're right, sorry about that.

[Eduardo]

Thanks!  Was this the place?  http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/k461300/

Yes, that the place. Don't miss it if you get the chance to go

[Hiroyuki]

I've never had Kyoto-style tempura. Their website says that they use cotton seed oil. Their tempura seems lighter than in Tokyo.

[bluehaze]

Hi all, we will be traveling to Osaka and Tokyo for 3 days each and would like to get your expertise on where we should go for great food!

I love Okonomiyaki and really wanna try monjayaki so any recommendations for where to find those would be great. Also, I am looking for a good sushiya and tempura place, as well as any other gems.

We're hoping not to spend a lot of money, so medium/cheap priced places would be best. However, we are willing to spend a little more for a once in a lifetime experience.

Thanks for any help!

-CC from NYC

[JasonTrue]

For Monjayaki, you can't go wrong if you just follow your nose in Tsukishima, which is on the Yuurakuchou and Oedo lines. That's the place with the highest concentration of monja restaurants, and it's highly unlikely that a bad one there would last very long.

I'm not a huge fan of monja, to be honest, but Hiromi is, so I can ask her if she has a more specific recommendation.

I would say there's no such thing as "expensive" monjayaki, but I'm sure there's at least one luxurious counterexample somewhere. Cabbage prices have gone up in the last two or three years, so it might be more expensive than the last time I tried, but most monja is about $6-13 per order depending on the toppings. Apparently "Baby star" (instant-ramen shaped noodle snacks) is quite the hip add-on.

Generally, good okonomiyaki will be $11-15 per order (using more nagaimo and less water) and respectable okonomiyaki can be found in the $6-12 range. For two people, You'll typically order one or two variations, along with something like yakisoba or gyuutan.

I'm less well-versed with Osaka, but expectations in Osaka are very high so even if you're at a chain you'll probably be well fed. Generally, the higher the base price (for the simplest version) the more likely they are using a lot of nagaimo, which is important for the ideal texture.

Hi all, we will be traveling to Osaka and Tokyo for 3 days each and would like to get your expertise on where we should go for great food!

I love Okonomiyaki and really wanna try monjayaki so any recommendations for where to find those would be great. Also, I am looking for a good sushiya and tempura place, as well as any other gems.

We're hoping not to spend a lot of money, so medium/cheap priced places would be best. However, we are willing to spend a little more for a once in a lifetime experience.

Thanks for any help!

-CC from NYC

←

[thelobster]

Sammy's Ebisu Plaza in Namba, Osaka is an amusing food theme park with several different okonomiyaki stands to try out; if that's too involved, try the nearby main branch of Chibo for okonomiyaki. (Click on restaurant names for links.)

Tori No Mai in nearby Namba Parks has good, accessible yakitori and tofu. They also have branches around town, try the Bento.com Osaka page for more.

For a good all-around Japanese-food experience I'd recommend one or more of the fancier izakayas up in Umeda: En, Maimon, Sun in Hilton Plaza, or the 27-floor Sun in nearby Phoenix Tower.

And if you want to try Okinawan, there's Katsuri or the more down-to-earth Okinawa restaurant.

If you have time for a day-trip to Kyoto, spring for a vegetarian temple lunch at Izusen or Shigetsu, then stop off at Kyoto Ramen Alley or Kokkekokko yakitori at Kyoto station on your way back.

[bluehaze]

Thank you so much for all the great suggestions, JasonTrue and thelobster! I'll definitely check out Tsukishima and Umeda (the izakayas sound especially tempting).

BTW thanks for pointing me towards bento.com, thelobster - its a great resource.

Do you have any recommendations for a great moderately priced sushiya as well?

Also, kinda OT for anyone who would know - would it make sense for me to get an unlimited JR pass from the US or are there more economic alternatives?

Thanks again!

-CC