Reports on Hong Kong dining

[Laksa]

The Chinese characters are:

煎堆

Cantonese pronounciations:

"Geen" - Like the liquor Gin, just elongate the "eeeee" vowel.

"Dui" - That's a hard one.  Like the "OY" in Oyster, but put a "D" in front of it.

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煎 - http://humanum.arts.cuhk.edu.hk/Lexis/lexi...ch.php?q=%B7%CE (sound file)

堆 - http://humanum.arts.cuhk.edu.hk/Lexis/lexi...ch.php?q=%B0%EF (sound file)

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Fantastic, thanks. I'll never be jeen dui deprived again. Love the pronunciation site. Took some fiddling to bypass the quicktime activex install but it was well worth it.

[hzrt8w]

Day 3: Lunch... The Quick And The Fat

The itinerary of today: visit the Lee Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum (李鄭屋古墓). The Han Tomb was discovered back in August 1955 when they prepared the site for the Lee Cheng Uk Estate (some low-rent housing). The government decided to preserve the tomb and built the estate around it. They constructed a small museum to house the small tomb and to display some unearthed potteries.

More info about Lee Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum on the Wiki

Here is the museum marker. It is off the beaten track a little bit for most visitors to Hong Kong. The museum is small. We finished the tour within an hour. I think it's only worth visiting if you have more time for your stay in Hong Kong.

But... before touring the tomb and browsing the unearhed potteries and stuff, we needed to fill up our stomach first. We just saw this small hole-in-the-wall outfit on the way to the museum after we got off the bus. It looked promising, I thought.

"Kum Kee" (my translation) - specialized in Chiu Chow style braised goose.

Look at what they were showing behind the glass - duck tongues, pig ears, goose wings, goose kidneys, tofu, chicken eggs, etc..

When I saw the 2 big braised geese hung behind the glass... like them, I was hooked. This is the one.

This was a take-out shop mainly. They have only 4 chairs and one small table attached to the wall. Talk about hole-in-the-wall! This shop probably takes the concept to the whole new level!

The menu... ah... there it was! Laminated and taped to the glass. The prices were incredibly cheap. The braised goose was HKD$56 per katty (one katty is about 1.3 lb). I was afraid that between the two of us we wouldn't be able to finish half a goose, so I ordered half a duck instead. Only HKD$35 (about USD$5.00).

This is a typical setting in the restaurants for the working class patrons: a cup of generic tea, a pair of chopsticks and a spoon.

We had a plate of chicken over rice. The chicken was incredibly fresh and tasty. It was served with a little bit of pickled vegetables.

This was the half braised duck dish. I also added 3 braised chicken eggs. The thin slices were duck breast meat on the top.

They handled the showmanship pretty well. The big slices of duck breast were laid on the top. After those were gone, it revealed the rest of the duck: boney dark meat.

This meal was a pleasant surprise. Hole-in-the-wall outfit, yes. Tasty? It was fantastic! And the incredible part was the price. The total came to HKD$60 (USD$8.00) - including my can of Coke. No tax. No service charge. That's what I love about these old shops in the lower-rent residential areas. The real deal: delicious food at an incredibly low price.

"Kum Kee" Braised Goose Shop: on (about) 52 Tonkin Street, Sham Shui Po District, Kowloon.

Edited March 8, 2008 by hzrt8w (log)

[sheetz]

The Chinese characters are:

煎堆

Cantonese pronounciations:

"Geen" - Like the liquor Gin, just elongate the "eeeee" vowel.

"Dui" - That's a hard one.  Like the "OY" in Oyster, but put a "D" in front of it.

←

煎 - http://humanum.arts.cuhk.edu.hk/Lexis/lexi...ch.php?q=%B7%CE (sound file)

堆 - http://humanum.arts.cuhk.edu.hk/Lexis/lexi...ch.php?q=%B0%EF (sound file)

←

I have to laugh at these sound clips. While the tones are correct they sound more like somebody singing a song rather than speaking.

[Shelby]

WOW I can't believe you get THAT much food for such a small price. I've never seen braised chicken eggs.....do they taste "smokier" than just plain hard boiled eggs?

[prasantrin]

Did the braised duck come with rice, or can you order rice separately if you want some? I think if I ate that, I would need rice. And I really want to eat that right now!

Do you remember the name of that "fast food" jook place? I don't really care for jook, but I love the other stuff!

[hzrt8w]

WOW I can't believe you get THAT much food for such a small price.  I've never seen braised chicken eggs.....do they taste "smokier" than just plain hard boiled eggs?

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Yes. They inherit a bit of the braising sauce (lo shui), which is mainly dark soy sauce with five spices and other herbs, on the surface of the eggs. The eggs are boiled with shells on, then the shells are cracked and the eggs continue to be boiled over slow heat (braised) for an hour or longer to pick up the flavor from the sauce.

[hzrt8w]

Did the braised duck come with rice, or can you order rice separately if you want some?  I think if I ate that, I would need rice.  And I really want to eat that right now!

Do you remember the name of that "fast food" jook place?  I don't really care for jook, but I love the other stuff!

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You can order plain rice separately if you like. Though it's not on the "menu", they would probably charge HKD$3-5 (USD$0.40-0.70) for the plain rice.

Sorry I couldn't remember the name of of the "fast food" jook place in Hung Hom. I wouldn't recommend it in any case. No worries. There are plenty of these in Hong Kong. Virtually one around every corner - far more than Starbucks! Ask your friend's husband in Shatin and I am sure they know a few in the neighborhood.

[hzrt8w]

Day 3: In Between Meals

After the Lee Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum (what a long name!), we strolled along the older residential district of Sham Shui Po and walked to the Golden Centre. I grew up around here. Of the first 20 years of my life, my family moved three times. This is an area where I have keen memories of what it used to look like back in the early 70's. Things haven't changed all that much.

Outside of the Golden Centre (a shopping mall for computers, cameras and peripherals), there used to be plenty of hawkers selling small eats on the street. And mobs of people eating everywhere. ALL GONE! There went one of my hopes of still finding hawkers on the street. They really are an endangered species. Government regulations and enforcements have by-and-large caused them extincted.

Hawkers are now replaced by small shops selling drinks and snacks. I bought a cup of coconut juice. With foams and shreds of coconuts. The coconut flavor was quite strong.

Passed by a shop selling curry octopus. I got a skewer of octopus tentacles in curry sauce. Very common in the streets of Hong Kong.

This district is full of shops selling snakes. Look at all the neon signs sticking out from the buildings, all jammed together. Very Hong Kong-like.

We passed by this sweet dessert soup specialty shop selling Malaysian burbur chacha. I would love to step inside and have a bowl... if I wasn't that full, still, from the big lunch.

After browsing through the Golden Centre, I only picked up a wide-angle/macro lense for my camera. I did, however, picked up plenty of Chinese concert DVDs.

We took a bus back to the Tsim Sha Tsui district for dinner.

Ah! Found a street vendor selling roasted chestnuts! Just taking the picture? Of course I bought and ate some! What do you think?

The vendor mixed the chestnuts with some coarse "black sands" (I don't exactly know what it is.), and "stir-fried" them with sugar (or honey?) for the chestnuts to pick up the sheen.

Here was a handful. This way of roasting chestnuts is the best! The chestnuts inherited some smoky, roasty flavor. Marvelous!

We passed by another Chiu Chow style eatery (there are plenty of them in Hong Kong) selling similar items. Braised geese, crabs, and many other items. I would love to walk right it and chow down... but... we had a different plan in mind.

Edited March 9, 2008 by hzrt8w (log)

[Shelby]

Mmmmmmmm I LOVE roasted chestnuts. Was the octopus chewy and spicy?

Every time I read a new entry, I get a large craving for what ever you just ate

[Dejah]

Mmmmmmmm I LOVE roasted chestnuts.  Was the octopus chewy and spicy?

Every time I read a new entry, I get a large craving for what ever you just ate 

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Oh yeah... Curry octopus! That's quite a red curry. I've got a bag of skewered octopus in the freezer. Would be great if some of you "experimenters" could come up with a recipe like you have been doing with siu yook and siu gnap!

Daughter was trying out a dim sum restaurant in Winnipeg recommended by prasantrin - Kum Ho. That was the first time she tried zha leung. She was quite surprised at how well the crueller stayed crispy inside of the soft hot rice noodle wrap. I've never had this before, so I guess it'll be on my list for next trip.

Funny - all of you are saying" Can't wait for my next trip tp HK!", and I say, "Can't wait for my next trip to Winnipeg!"

[hzrt8w]

Mmmmmmmm I LOVE roasted chestnuts.  Was the octopus chewy and spicy?

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Yes, chewy and hot/spicy. There is a "non-hot" version if one likes. Nowadays they usually sell both versions - knowing that people in Hong Kong in general don't like hot food.

I don't know how they make the curry sauce. It seems a bit heavy on MSG.

[CFT]

I bought a cup of coconut juice.  With foams and shreds of coconuts.  The coconut flavor was quite strong.

Ah Leung, do you know why they are called "ocean bottom" coconuts?

Edited March 10, 2008 by CFT (log)

[hzrt8w]

I bought a cup of coconut juice.  With foams and shreds of coconuts.  The coconut flavor was quite strong.

Ah Leung, do you know why they are called "ocean bottom" coconuts?

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I think they had mislabelled the coconut juice. There is something that Cantonese translated to as "ocean bottom coconut" but that is not to be used for making coconut juice.

[prasantrin]

I bought a cup of coconut juice.  With foams and shreds of coconuts.  The coconut flavor was quite strong.

Ah Leung, do you know why they are called "ocean bottom" coconuts?

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I think they had mislabelled the coconut juice. There is something that Cantonese translated to as "ocean bottom coconut" but that is not to be used for making coconut juice.

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What's the difference between "ocean bottom coconut" and other types of coconut?

I love coconut juice! We used to buy coconut juice with pieces of coconut in it from the Chinese grocery store. It was always in the frozen section, so during summer we would let it get slushy. Very refreshing! I'm definitely looking for coconut juice in HK!

[prasantrin]

Daughter was trying out a dim sum restaurant in Winnipeg recommended by prasantrin - Kum Ho. That was the first time she tried zha leung. She was quite surprised at how well the crueller stayed crispy inside of the soft hot rice noodle wrap. I've never had this before, so I guess it'll be on my list for next trip.

When we saw that dish (on someone else's table), we asked about it. They told us it was one of their most popular items, because no one else does them. We vowed to try it next time. I don't think my mother has tried it, yet. She'll be home in a couple of weeks, btw, but my grandfather will be in tow. Dim sum with my mother would be fun, dim sum with my grandfather would not...But maybe she can leave my grandfather home one day, if you still want to meet up with her! Even though it will be without me

Funny - all of you are saying" Can't wait for my next trip tp HK!",  and I say, "Can't wait for my next trip to Winnipeg!"    

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Some of us get to say both!

[Hest88]

Ah, this is really whetting my appetite for our November trip. Haven't been back in 5 years and I can't wait!

Here in the Bay Area zha leung has become more readily available. Even the older Oakland Chinatown hole in the wall has them. I remember when they first started popping up about 15 years ago but you still have to know to ask for them.

[Laksa]

What's the difference between "ocean bottom coconut" and other types of coconut?

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What translates from the Chinese as bottom of the sea coconut is nata de coco.

Edited March 10, 2008 by Laksa (log)

[CFT]

海底椰

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_de_mer

Translated page: http://zh-yue.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B5%B7%E5%BA%95%E6%A4%B0

[insomniac]

海底椰

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_de_mer

Translated page: http://zh-yue.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B5%B7%E5%BA%95%E6%A4%B0

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aaah, coco de mer....slightly more erotic than a coconut drink in Sham Shui Po......

[Laksa]

海底椰

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_de_mer

Translated page: http://zh-yue.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B5%B7%E5%BA%95%E6%A4%B0

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Ah, I stand corrected. For some reason, I thought it was nata de coco. Wonder what that's called in Chinese...

[Laksa]

海底椰

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_de_mer

Translated page: http://zh-yue.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B5%B7%E5%BA%95%E6%A4%B0

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Hmm... there's no mention in that entry of any part of the coco de mer being edible. Could the common usage of 海底椰 refer to the palmyra palm fruit instead?

[canucklehead]

The "ocean bottom coconut" is used in soups - especially with conch and pork. I don't think you really eat it.

[hzrt8w]

Day 3: Dinner... Down And Out In Tsim Sha Tsui

There is an Indonesia Restaurant on Granville Road in Tsim Sha Tsui. Really! "Indonesia Restaurant". That's the name of the restaurant!

Take a wild guess what style of food they serve! Hint: Not Italian.

The restaurant is on the second floor. They have been around for years and years. When I used to work in Hong Kong in the mid 80's, I loved coming here to get my Indonesian food fix. They are still around! And probably will be for a long time.

They have a few comfortable booths.

First came the shaved ice with red beans, mung beans (yellow) and green jellies made from pandan leaves. Three colors. Filled with coconut milk.

And a bottle of my favorite beer: Tsing Tao. Strange to be drinking a Chinese beer in an Indonesian restaurant, huh?

Food-wise: first came the appetizer - Chicken Satay. Six pieces of chicken meat on a skewer, grilled to perfection and served with some cucumbers. The satay sauce is made from ground peanuts, sha cha sauce, onion/shallot and such. The taste was very good.

Beef Rendang. Perfectly done. Heavy in coconut milk, concentrated from the cooking. The taste was intense. Spicy. Hot. Sweet. Rich. Tasty.

The famous Indonesian/Malaysian dish of "Curry Fishhead". It was a bit boney, and the fish skin was thick and chewy but soft. There were still meats in the cheek area and around the bones. Coupled with the hot curry sauce, it was quite good!

I do recommend this restaurant if you like Indonesian food. Dinner for two, about HKD$300 (gratuity included). USD$40.

Indonesia Restaurant, 2/F, 66 Granville Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

2367-3287

(Reviews on Indonesia Restaurant on Openrice.com (in Chinese))

Edited March 11, 2008 by hzrt8w (log)

[canucklehead]

I LOVE those old school places in HK - Tai Ping Koon, Perfume River, Nam Wah (RIP), Boston... I never got to Indonesia - but I always found the storefront intriguing.

[aprilmei]

The "ocean bottom coconut" is used in soups - especially with conch and pork.  I don't think you really eat it.

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Yes, you can eat it. There's a chain of Chinese dessert shops here that in the summer, makes this delicious coconut ice cream and they add chunks of the sea coconut.

The fruit (or whatever it is) has a thin papery husk. The flesh of it is quite thick with a tender crispness that's sort of like rambutan. It doesn't taste like "regular" coconut, though.