New Farmer's Market at Headhouse Square

[rlibkind]

At Headhouse Square last Sunday, I completed my shopping begun the previous day at the RTM for ratatouille ingredients by hitting up North Star for peppers and onions, Wimer's for roma tomatoes and more eggplant, Blooming Glen for bell peppers (as well as cherry and heirloom tomatoes for pasta, sandwiches and just plain enjoying by themselves).

Are you going to make the ratatouille from RATATOUILLE, THE MOVIE ? I just bought ingredients for the same reason......

←

Haven't seen it yet (I intend to), though certainly just reading the reviews and being innundated by all the publicity made me think of it, especially when I saw all the gorgeous summer vegetables.

The end result was delicious. But since I'm the only one in the house who will eat it, I had more than enough. Tomorrow I'm going to a corn roast/pot luck in Lancaster County PA hosted by one of the farmers from whom I bought some of the ingredients (Earl Livengood at the Reading Terminal Market), so today as my contribution I chopped the pint-and-a-half of leftover ratatouille with some Israeli canned olives I bought on sale, another clove of fresh garlic, capers, additional herbs and four or five boquerones (white anchovies) to turn it into an appetizer spread for baguette slices.

[KatieLoeb]

Ohmigosh those heirloom tomatoes are gorgeous! <swoon>

Tomorrow will be the first Sunday I'm home and without other obligations that would cause me to miss the Headhouse Market. You'd better believe I'm going to try and get over there (it's a scant two blocks from my house - I have no excuse!) and see what there is to be had.

[KatieLoeb]

After patiently awaiting the thunderstorms to cease, I managed to wander over to the Headhouse Farmer's Market just before they closed today. I've found out that one of the advantages of catching the tail end of business is that a lot of stuff goes on sale in the last ten minutes. I got two for one fresh breads (a multigrain freeform loaf and six ciabatta rolls) and butters (honey-orange zest and garlic-herb) from Wild Flour Bakery that were worth the trip alone. Also managed to hit the North Star Farms stand for some beautiful mixed heirloom tomatoes for a salad tonight, two different kinds of peaches (can't remember what they're called, but they're both yummy!) and a bag of Pearl plums, tiny litle yellow plums that still need a few days to soften up, but are already sweet and delicious. I also got two ears of Jersey corn from another vendor and five lemon cucumbers for $1 from another vendor. I tasted a sample donut peach from another vendor, but had already purchased my week's worth of fruit for one, so I'll go back for some of those next week. Unbelievably juicy and sweet and something to look forward to.

This Sunday market is a treasure. Even if it weren't so close to home I'd travel to shop there. The variety and quality of the produce is astounding and the pictures upthread barely do it justice. We are blessed to live in the radius of such great farmland in both PA, NJ and DE. I will be doing my best to buy fresh and local all summer and into the fall in the hopes of both eating better and supporting our local farmers. It's a win-win for everyone.

[mrbigjas]

and a bag of Pearl plums, tiny litle yellow plums that still need a few days to soften up, but are already sweet and delicious.

those are the plums i was talking about in that other thread on summer produce. wait till you see what color they turn.

[Holly Moore]

In this week's City Paper column, founder Bruce Schimmel provides interesting insight into how the market ended up at Head House Square rather than as an extension of Reading Terminal Market.

Edited July 30, 2007 by Holly Moore (log)

[mrbigjas]

In this week's City Paper column, founder Bruce Shimmel provides interesting insight into how the market ended up at Head House Square rather than as an extension of Reading Terminal Market.

←

you know, i've been thinking about it and i have indeed been shopping less at the terminal than i have at the farmers markets around town. but it's summer! they aren't going to be here in the winter and i'll be back there more, then.

either way, interesting article, although he does make his point by choosing the products that will make it for him. for instance, he mentions that the d'artagnan duck breasts cost $25 a pound 'uptown.' the only place that sells them for that much is dibruno's, where the prices of d'artangan and other products like that are laughably high. you can get d'artagnan duck breasts at the super fresh at 10th & south for half that (or at wegmans for that matter, but it's not in town, so nevermind).

not that i wouldn't get them from griggstown anyway. the duck breast we got from them last week was fantastic. (their quail rock the house too; we had them tonight).

but the whole 'almost everything i need is here -- cheaper' part is bullshit, sorry. the farmer's market is expensive, and there are no two ways about it. $3.50-$4 a pound for tomatoes. $5/dozen for eggs from the one lady. capogiro is there, and they charge $4 for a small cup of gelato. this is not a cheap place to shop.

however, i didn't know the terminal had been courting the market and been shot down. that's very interesting.

[rlibkind]

In this week's City Paper column, founder Bruce Shimmel provides interesting insight into how the market ended up at Head House Square rather than as an extension of Reading Terminal Market.

←

The only space large enough the RTM could offer was Filbert Street. Let's face it, the Filbert street underpass is dark and unappealing -- even when the RTM spreads hay and tries to make it festive. It's a space that defies beautification. Whereas Headhouse Square is open, sunny and inviting. No contest for these reasons, not Schimmel's uninformed speculations.

Sure Headhouse Square looks a lot busier on Sunday that the RTM. It's also about 20 times smaller, so why is that a surprise?

Yet, RTM is hardly unpatronized on Sundays as Schimmel would have you believe. This spring the hourly count for Sundays was 1,500. That's 10,000 people over a seven-hour session. (Not all of them are produce buyers, of course, but Jim and Vinnie Iovine are thrilled with the Sunday business they get, and the Sunday hours have been a worthwile endeavor as far as other merchants I've spoken to are concerned.) No doubt the count is down this summer: a lot of city dwellers head to the shore, and the critical mass of great growers Nicky has lured to Headhouse Square is a siren song to anyone who lusts after the season's offerings. Schimmel's comment that on Sundays the RTM's aisles seem almost empty may have a lot to do with the fact that only about half the merchants open on Sundays. The RTM board continues to call Sundays an "experiment"; the Iovines want to see the board quit pussy-footing and make it permanent.

Schimmel writes:

But save for the Amish and a single, pricey Fair Foods stand, you don't know the source of the Reading's "local" food. That's why they lost my business.

Fair enough, I agree more signage would be better. But if he bothered to make even the simplest inquiry, Schimmel could get some answers. In addition to a single Amish greengrocer (Benuel Kaufman) and Fair Foods, both Iovine Brothers Produce and OK Lee have cut contract deals with local producers in New Jersey and Bucks County for produce (Iovine's usually labels their bins with local product as coming from Shady Brook Farms). In addition there's also L. Halteman which, although primarily a butcher and deli, sells a nice selection of seasonal produce at very nice prices. So, while there is lots of room for improvement in local produce at the RTM, it's hardly the desert Schimmel contends.

Schimmel also writes:

Last year, he [RTM Manager Paul Steinke) evicted long-standing merchants — for reasons, again, that I can't figure.

Schimmel "can't figure" the reasons because he either never asked or never listened. RTM told six merchants they would not be renewed unless they met the terms of their existing leases: the failures to meet terms were either serious arrears in rent, or inability to meet other existing lease requirements. Two of those merchants, Tokyo Sushi and Franks A-Lot, rectifed the problems, and as a result RTM renewed their leases. (I'll leave the Rick's Steak issue to its own thread rather than introduce it here.)

None of this takes anything away from Headhouse Square. It's an awesome market. In fact, I would have been there again today, except Earl Livengood, who has thrived as a local farmer selling at the Reading Terminal (and, on a less successful but still profitable basis, two other farmers' markets in the city) was holding his annual corn roast for customers at his Lancaster County Farm, and I didn't want to miss it.

Edited to fix name of Iovine's contract farm to Shady Brook.

Edited July 31, 2007 by rlibkind (log)

[Holly Moore]

My read is that Steinke has not been at all successful in developing the Sunday RTM operation as a city dweller alternative to Whole Foods or the new Headhouse Square farmers market.

I continue to support the market merchants - so the statement that follows has nothing to do with my vocal and total lack of esteem for the market's management - I was at Reading Terminal Market twice on Saturday, more to get the feel for attitudes than to shop. My only purchases other than a hot pretzel were a couple of tomatoes to tide me over to the Sunday Farmer's Market.

I realize that over the last three weeks I have been holding off on my major produce shopping until Sunday. I'm hooked on Headhouse for the certain local sourcing, for the quality, for the conversations with the growers and producers, for the total immersion in what a city farmer's market should be. For me, Saturday shopping at Rittenhouse Square, the Italian Market and RTM mostly has been replaced with Sunday shopping at Headhouse. Alas, only until the season ends.

One more reason to hate Philadelphia's winters.

Edited July 30, 2007 by Holly Moore (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Today's haul:

Several different colors of heirloom tomatoes, including one ginormous yellow one that weighed close to a pound on its own.

Huge bunch/bouquet of basil you can smell at thirty paces.

White and purple eggplants.

A pint of white donut peaches.

A spaghetti squash.

I'm off to find a recipe for an eggplant/tomato gratin of some sort. I want to eat this stuff tonight!

edited to add:

I made an eggplant and tomato quiche of sorts. Layered baked eggplant slices over some shredded smoked gouda in a deep dish pie shell (pre-made - I ain't no pastry chef and I understand my limtations), topped with garlic, thinly sliced onions, sliced tomatoes and lots of chopped fresh basil I lightly sauteed in just a little olive oil. Topped again with baked sliced eggplant. Made a custard of two eggs, about 1/2 cup of fat free half and half, 1/4 cup skim milk ricotta cheese and a few tablespoons of pecorino romano and poured it over to fill in the cracks. Topped with more smoked gouda and some more pecorino romano. It browned and puffed up brilliantly, but sank like a souffle out of the oven. I'll have a slice tomorrow and report back on how it tastes, but it certainly looks pretty and smells delicious.

Edited August 6, 2007 by KatieLoeb (log)

[mrbigjas]

as of yesterday, taquitos de puebla had a stand at the farmer's market, complete with pineapple gyro spit.

[michael_g]

A spaghetti squash.

←

Did you do anything special to make this palatable, or do you just like the stuff? No offense, of course, I've just never been able to enjoy it.

[KatieLoeb]

I actually haven't made the spaghetti squash yet and was just thinking I needed to do that tonight. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I'll report back.

The Eggplant-Tomato Tart/Quiche was very good. I took most of it to work to treat my coworkers and myself to lunch last week. Smoked gouda cheese makes everything taste good.

[mattohara]

i was very very excited to see taquitos de puebla! i got three tacos of course.

other purchases:

marinated duck breast (soy and ginger)

plums

peach cider

shiitake and those big grey/white mushrooms (from the asian shopkeep)

and we made grilled duck with a red wine/basil/plum sauce accompanied by sake/butter mushrooms. sooo delicious (and fresh)

[mrbigjas]

i was very very excited to see taquitos de puebla!  i got three tacos of course.

right? as soon as i saw that stand i was like, GAME SET MATCH everyone else loses.

then i realized that since i was alone maybe i should stop yapping.

shiitake and those big grey/white mushrooms (from the asian shopkeep)

that guy has like five things he sells, but what little he has is all really good. i've eaten vast quantities of that purslane, and the chinese chives, and the mushrooms, which are totally expensive, unlike his other items.

last night i stuffed some pork chops (not the ones i got when i saw you, wkl, but some chops i got from the saturday market on rittenhouse, which were super good) with an oyster mushroom stuffing. damn good.

last week i made chinese chive dumplings from this recipe. niiiiiice.

[rlibkind]

Some photos from today at Headhouse Square Market:

Peppers and scallions at Blooming Glen

Stone fruit at Northstar

The red cherry tomatoes at Blooming Glen are tiny, but they are flavor-packed. About as sweet as can be without being pure sugar, but still some tomato acid bite. Great for just popping in the mouth, adding to salad or just barely warming up and adding to vermicelli or the pasta of your choice.

Nicky Uy, market manager, says she hopes to add additional dairy purveyors, if not this season then next, especially one who sells milk and cream rather than just cheese, and raw milk if at all possible.

Here's my brief shopping list:

WENK'S FAMILY FARM $10.80

Watermelon

Peaches, nectarine

Pears

BLOOMING GLEN $8.75

Cherry tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes

Leaf lettuce

[mattohara]

yesterday we got a bag of mixed bean soup for (added tomatoes and summer savory and fresh garlic)

a loaf of multigrain bread and some apples went into a PB + Apple + Quince paste sandwich beside the soup

some concord grapes.

this is turning into a weekly ritual for us.

oh, and i almost forgot, we started off with brunch at Coquette. *looks for that thread*

[MarketStEl]

Today was my first foray to the Headhouse market. I was quite impressed, and too focused on scoping out the place and figuring out what I wanted to buy to take pictures, even though I had my camera with me.

Didn't jot down the names of the farms from which I purchased produce today. I do remember one stand I liked: North Star Farm, with its one-price policy for all (or almost all) of its fruit: $1.75/lb, mix and match. I bought four large white peaches and some plums from them.

There were some absolutely gorgeous peppers at the stand just south of North Star's. I brought some long, narrow, red sweet (Sweet? "Sweet," the woman assured me) heirloom Johnny <mumble>s and three shallots, which she assured me were keepers. After visiting the Food Trust table, asking the representative there how their Chester market was doing (it's much smaller -- only two farms -- but doing well, she told me), and picking up some recipes, I decided I wanted to try one for dinner tonight. So I went back to this farmstand and bought two bunches of beets.

I passed on the Birchrunville Blue, but I'll be back to try some of this unusually mild blue cheese.

I managed to convince my roomie whose idea of good eating apples is limited to Red Delicious to let me buy him a variety he's never tried -- Honey Crisp apples from <mumble> farm in Adams County. I learned something new today: Pennsylvania has a sizable apple-growing industry in Adams County! (Isn't this where Lori in PA lives?) I bought a pint container (five apples) and ate one on the way from the Headhouse market to the Reading Terminal Market. These are great eating apples -- honey-sweet as advertised with a slight note of tartness at the end.

Finally, I bought a Sugar Baby watermelon from <mumble>.

All told, I spent $19 at the Head House Square market for five apples, four peaches, eight plums, two bunches of beets, three shallots, one watermelon and ten long frying peppers. I'd probably have spent about one-third less for the same haul at OK Lee and Iovine's, but it wouldn't be as fresh. This looked like produce worth saving in those ethylene-absorbing green bags.

Tonight for dinner: Pork chops (from Giunta's in the RTM), mac and cheese (sorry, no Velveeta -- real cheese this time) and teriyaki beets (the recipe I decided to try). Maybe I'll season the pork chops with ginger and soy sauce.

One final comment: Given that the Food Trust's offices are located in the Reading Terminal Market and that the RTM helped the trust get its markets off the ground, how could anyone portray this as an us-versus-the-Reading Terminal Market story the way Bruce Schimmel did?

[rlibkind]

There were some absolutely gorgeous peppers at the stand just south of North Star's.

←

That was probably Blooming Glen, which on my past visits was located just at the southerly entrance on the same side as North Star.

One final comment:  Given that the Food Trust's offices are located in the Reading Terminal Market and that the RTM helped the trust get its markets off the ground, how could anyone portray this as an us-versus-the-Reading Terminal Market story the way Bruce Schimmel did?

←

I didn't know that! Thanks for the info, Sandy. Let's face it, Schimmel doesn't know an avocado from his . . . . navel orange.

[mattohara]

I forgot to mention the great pickles from S&C. It's a Mom n Pop operation that only sells two kinds of pickles - mild and hot. I just went for the milds but they have plenty of spice. They are extremely crunchy, dilly and vinegary as well. I've been snacking on them all week. Check them out!

[MarketStEl]

Sampled 'em. Must buy some on a future visit.

[KatieLoeb]

Small haul today. Four gorgeous peaches - two yellow and two white. A large glossy eggplant. Two delicata squash from Northstar. And a peach scone and a blueberry muffin at half price from the bakery's last minutes sale. Dulcita - my tiny gray and white kitty - is true to her name and has a sweet tooth. She's enjoying little bits of my muffin along with me.

[KatieLoeb]

Those delicata squash I bought were unbelievably sweet. Served them with some Honey-Orange butter and a bit of salt and pepper. Tasted like sweet potatoes. Muy delicioso. I'm getting more of those and roasting them next time. I microwaved them this time and they were fabulous, but I think would be better less water logged. The nuker is quick, but doesn't really carmelize too well. Nonetheless, great squash. It's easy to eat my veggies when they're this good.

Peaches are very sweet too. The whites are a bit less ripe and somewhat crisper than the yellow ones, but still some of the best of summer.

[Holly Moore]

Were a few gaps in the line of stands this past week. Hoping it was just a seasonal winding down. But all my favorites were still there.

[rlibkind]

Were a few gaps in the line of stands this past week.  Hoping it was just a seasonal winding down.  But all my favorites were still there.

←

Apparently one farm (I think it was Wenk's) had their truck break down on the NJ Turnpike. Since they take four tables, when they didn't show it left a large opening on the east side of the arcade. One or two others didn't make it, either.

[MarketStEl]

I asked about the pickle folks. Brian from the Food Trust told me they'd called them with a reminder. I hope it was just a bad hair day or something like that. They missed at least one customer this past Sunday.