Alan Richman article in GQ: The Ferry Bldg

[PamelaF]

The article is here GQ

He is not quite as mean-spirited as he was in an article last year about New Orleans here's the thread.

He seems to feel that the focus here on organic, local, sustainable (etc.) food, is a bit naive and unrealistic.

Is it true that things like the $8 eggs are going a bit too far, or are we justified in taking advantage of, and even celebrating, all the wonderful products we have available?

[melkor]

Why do farmers need to be poor? If you can sell tomatoes for $4/lb, cherries for $7/lb, or eggs for $8/dozen and people will buy them - good for you. I don't see what all the hate is for. God forbid someone who choses to be a farmer should be able to afford to send their kids to college or pay their mortgage.

[russ parsons]

richman seems to have set himself up as the pricker of balloons. of course, ferry plaza is a notoriously easy target. and, of course, he took the easy shots.

[Busboy]

See, not to stereotype, but that's the kind of crunchy, sensitive, natural-fiber response that we East Coasters expect whenever your subject to what is by our standards gentle ribbing.

I read the piece as an affectionate look at a place where Richman found some really good food. It contains an embarrassment of praise -- including for eG member Rancho Gordo.

I don't think that he feels that the focus on natural foods is naive and unrealistic, I think what he finds amusing the kind of hush-voiced reaction that people have to what is, in the end, just dinner.

And there's a certainly a strain of self-satisfaction that infects the artisanal food world that deserves a bit of mockery every now and again. Against the backdrop of (pick your favorite global crisis), selling expensive food to affluent people only moves us so far towards a better world.

And yes, the $8 eggs are ridiculous. I mean, get real.

The description of the pancake breakfast is priceless:

The communal table where I was seated had been painstakingly fashioned out of cherrywood by artisans whose craftsmanship, I would guess, dated back to the time of Beowulf. The paper mats were unbleached. Everyone else at the table was wearing cable-knit sweaters, or necklaces created by Amazon tribes yet to make contact with civilization. The patrons of Boulettes Larder appeared to be pursuing an existence so free of hormones I wondered how they managed to achieve what is commonly thought of as normal height.

The stone-ground grains of my griddle cakes were without peer. I don’t know if they were milled or panned for, like gold. The orange juice was so sweet I could only compare it to late-harvest Riesling. I sipped hot chocolate that tasted like melted ganache. I thought I could hear a Pan flute, but maybe it was my imagination.

The cost of my beverage order alone reached double figures. My distress was obvious to one of the owners, Lori Regis, who said to me, “When everybody’s hands are on things, it can’t be cheap.

One of the reasons I like Richman is that he'll step in and take a shot at a sacred cow. Now Orleans food. The artificial ecology of the Vegas dining scene. A bunch of people in $400 sweaters thinking that they're saving the world with their olive oil selection. To my mind, there's way too little of that going on these days.

[russ parsons]

See, not to stereotype, but that's the kind of crunchy, sensitive, natural-fiber response  that we East Coasters expect whenever your subject to what is by our standards gentle ribbing. 

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glad i could fulfill the stereotype!

seriously, i didn't have so much of a problem with it. it's just lazy and glib. i mean really, setting the ferry plaza building up as a representative of what's typical and then parading through it as some kind of "everyman." it's like interviewing the taxi driver ... a cliche.

might have been more interesting to compare it to a similar place in NYC ... let me tell you about my breakfast at the Regency Hotel--$8 for a dozen eggs would have been cheap. Try $50 for a bowl of yogurt, a corn muffin and a cup of coffee. did see geraldo rivera and al sharpton shaking hands in the men's room, though. ha! those new yorkers.

insert a couple of laugh lines and you've got an alan richman column.

[Busboy]

See, not to stereotype, but that's the kind of crunchy, sensitive, natural-fiber response  that we East Coasters expect whenever your subject to what is by our standards gentle ribbing. 

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glad i could fulfill the stereotype!

seriously, i didn't have so much of a problem with it. it's just lazy and glib. i mean really, setting the ferry plaza building up as a representative of what's typical and then parading through it as some kind of "everyman." it's like interviewing the taxi driver ... a cliche.

might have been more interesting to compare it to a similar place in NYC ... let me tell you about my breakfast at the Regency Hotel--$8 for a dozen eggs would have been cheap. Try $50 for a bowl of yogurt, a corn muffin and a cup of coffee. did see geraldo rivera and al sharpton shaking hands in the men's room, though. ha! those new yorkers.

insert a couple of laugh lines and you've got an alan richman column.

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I'll grant that he breaks no new ground here but, at this point, I'll take "lazy and glib" over lazy and fawning any day. I was walking home from work and trying to think how one would take a different look at the Ferry Building culture without sounding like either a) a shill writing for an airline magazine or b) a breathless acolyte of whatever left-ish sounding food movement has caught your eye at the moment. Which, in turn, reminded me that, even though I still don't like restaurant reviews as a genre, I'm liking reviewers more and more because they seem to be the only food writers with any critical faculties left (present company, and a few others, excepted).

Anyways, given that he liked the place, should we expect another gushing thousand words of praise for something that we've all already agreed we like in advance? I mean, San Francisco, local, orgainc, hand-hewn -- what's not to like? So why not have a little fun with the place -- a touch of vinegar and cayenne to give the butter sauce a little zing? It might have been cliched, but it was hardly mean-spirited.

And, Russ, I'm totally behind you on the New York Hotel breakfasts and the plutocrats who eat them. Go for it, I'll defend you to the death!

[JohnL]

I think Busboy did a good job "reading" this piece.

Richman is what we Easterners call a "wiseass."

("smart ass" works equally well)

I do not believe he is ever mean spirited.

I can also understand where his "schtick" would be off putting to some people.

I really enjoy the guy and his call em as he sees it candor is refreshing.

[hjshorter]

Richman seems to be stepping on Carlo Petrini's patch, albeit more in mockery than in sorrow. I am more inclined to believe Rancho Gordo's take on the farmers and merchants, and the market's clientele, than some Italian food snob or East Coast snark merchant. And I think Mr. Richman's "candor" is about as authentic as those $400 sweaters.

did see geraldo rivera and al sharpton shaking hands in the men's room, though.

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God, I hope they washed their hands first.

[Fat Guy]

He may not be mean spirited, but he is surely the crankiest of all major food writers.

[JohnL]

"Cranky" like a waiter in the old original Palm Steakhouse days (or maybe the Carnegie deli circa 1965).

Richman is from Philadelphia and started out as a sportswriter, I believe (had a stint in Montreal as a restaurant critic).

He practices the journalistic equivalent of what we did on Bronx street corners--hang out and break balls!

(one can still see this activity rendered lovingly and realistically on certain episodes of The Sopranos!!!)

[hjshorter]

He practices the journalistic equivalent of what we did on Bronx street corners--hang out and break balls!

Richman wore out his welcome with his hit piece on New Orleans - a city that really did not need another beat-down at the time it was published. He reads like a guy in love with his own edginess; the facts and people's feelings be damned.

[docsconz]

Maybe because I grew up in NYC and am used to that kind of humor, but as far as this piece is concerned I agree with busboy on his take. I love the ferry Plaza Market and Richman captures it from both sides. It is special and precious, but by its specialness and preciousness it can elicit some gentle ribbing, which is all I see in this piece. Perhaps people are more sensitive because of the whole Petrini debacle and the Richman piece on N.O.?

[JohnL]

The New Orleans piece was debated/discussed here. Most anyone with strong opinions who makes few, if any, concessions and says what they have to say regardless of circumstance will be controversial or provocative.

There are three responses (IMOP) one is to deal with the substance of the piece and the other is to dismiss it because of perceived intent. One doesn't "like" the author or his/her style. The third is to not read anything by an author whose style we do not appreciate or whose opinions and perspective we would prefer not to deal with.

When journalism begins to concern itself with being nice or politically correct and making concessions then it ceases to be journalism.

Again, I understand Richman has an abrasive style and makes few, if any, concessions and thus, rubs a lot of people the wrong way. However, a journalist who only sees good and says only nice things (or sees the bad and ignores it) is not a journalist he/she is a PR flack.

[hjshorter]

When journalism begins to concern itself with being nice or politically correct and making concessions then it ceases to be journalism.

I don't consider Alan Richman a journalist. Edited June 1, 2007 by hjshorter (log)

[JohnL]

Whatever one wants to call him.

He is what he is.

I guess we can debate the substance of his writing and opinion. Or we can note our disapproval of his writing style.

For me, it is more interesting discussing what he says rather than who he is or how he says it.

Twelfth Night will always IMOP--be more interesting and entertaining than the biography of Shakespeare! (I am not comparing Richman to Shakespeare!)

[russ parsons]

once again, it's not a matter of "sensitivity." i would have thought a lot more of the story if richman had bothered to poke fun beyond the most obvious stereotypes, and if he had acknowledged Ferry Plaza for what it is: a foodie Disneyland, the West Coast equivalent of Dean and Deluca. but either of those would have taken more than the 30 minutes it seems he spent writing the piece. the story bugged me not so much as a californian, or even a farmers market fan, but as a writer.

[rancho_gordo]

As a native son of the Golden West, I can tell you Richman was pretty typical of people from the East Coast who come out here with almost a chip on their shoulder and end up frolicking nude in the California sunshine. Well, not quite, but I think he was all set to debunk the ferry building and just got caught up in it as so many do. It's a lovely space and it's hard not to be charmed, especially on a clear day with the boats in the bay and the occasional good musician. I know outsiders want to make fun of the growers and vendors who have philosophies about their food but we're sincere about doing the right thing and growing food well. it sounds funny on paper but when you're confronted with it, along with the flavor, it's different.

When I talked with him, he seemed more surprised at himself that he was getting excited about beans. He was very nice and enthusiastic.

As someone who has traveled a lot to Italy and a bit to New York, I find the discussions of price pretty bizarre, aside from the $8 eggs. That one is for Mr. Ripley!

[hathor]

I never heard of the guy, so I'm coming in with a clean slate.

The article just struck me as glib and sort of silly. I would certainly never have thought that he was a food journalist as he seems to pride himself on his Everyman's ingorance.

And where the hell does he get a full on flapjack (flapjack??) breakfast i NYC for $6.00??

[Carlsbad]

I wasn't going to comment because this guy has received way too much attention on here already. But I can't resist commenting on the $8 eggs. They are $8 a dozen as I understand it. I have a friend who has chicken on his property, and he gives me truly fresh, natural eggs from time to time. They are so far superior to any eggs I can buy anywhere, I would gladly pay $8 a dozen for them. When you poach them in water, they stay very compact and don't fly all over the place. When you eat them, they are far superior to any eggs I can buy, and believe me I've tried everything available anywhere near me. I don't eat a lot of eggs, but when I get good ones, I eat them. If this guy at the Ferry Building has people lined up at $8 a dozen, I'm sure his are something special. By the way, my friend tells me he figures his eggs cost him about $1 each.

Maybe someone can try the eggs and report back. Try poaching one and putting it over organic asparagus with a little really fresh butter and some reggiano. Was the egg in the dish worth 67 cents?

[Holly Moore]

Read this thread. Then I read the article. Huh??? Can't see why folks are so upset.

Enjoyed the article; enjoyed Richman's writing. Alan Richman is relating his impressions and doing so respectfully and humorously. The reader is seeing The Ferry Building through his eyes. Richman's goal seems to be whetting the appetite of those not familiar with the Ferry Building, not reinforcing the beliefs of those who know the place well.

I have never been there. Now I want to. Didn't know much about the place. Now I do. Can't ask for much more than that.

Edited June 2, 2007 by Holly Moore (log)

[StanSherman]

Maybe someone can try the eggs and report back. 

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I have bought those $8 eggs when they were $6 eggs. They are real farm eggs! With the feed cost increases, and extra transportation costs for the Yoga instructors, it’s no wonder they sell out at such a bargain price!

Good thing we only have a flock just for the family right now, or those Marin egg whores would have us out of business by now, selling that cheap.

[rancho_gordo]

I'm sure the eggs are worth it, it's just I have chickens so I can't imagine paying that much. I also know the hierloom breeds shut down for winter and for me, the near-Biblical heat wave we had last summer killed three of mine and left two no longer laying eggs. I don't know the logistics of the $8 eggs (which have come down to 7 by the way.) The problem is most of the produce at the market is medium priced but the 7 dollar eggs and 3 dollar peaches are what people remember and talk about, not the $1.50 chard.

On the subject of the market, there is now a rice grower called Massa. He was new and I bought his brown rice to be nice. I hate brown rice if I allow myself to think of it. I was wrong. I hate crappy brown rice. This stuff is nutty and moist and pure pleasure to eat. I still can't get over how good it is. Be sure and check him out the next time you're there. Of course, rice and beans are a natural match!

[prasantrin]

We're cheap shoppers. Not really cheap, but poor, so we're cheap by necessity. And last summer when we were in SF, we went to the Ferry Bldg and we bought some of those $3 peaches (OK, just two, or maybe even just 1), and some pricey cherries and plums, too. Oh, and some $5 beans. And they were all some of the best examples of those products we've ever had, so well worth the money we paid. When my mother was visiting me a couple of weeks ago, she started talking about those cherries again, and it's been almost a year since we ate them.

I enjoyed the article. I thought it was more flattering than snide, and although Richman might come across as a crotchety old man, he seems more like a crotchety but fun old uncle.

[Busboy]

once again, it's not a matter of "sensitivity." i would have thought a lot more of the story if richman had bothered to poke fun beyond the most obvious stereotypes, and if he had acknowledged Ferry Plaza for what it is: a foodie Disneyland, the West Coast equivalent of Dean and Deluca. but either of those would have taken more than the 30 minutes it seems he spent writing the piece. the story bugged me not so much as a californian, or even a farmers market fan, but as a writer.

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See, that's what I don't understand. He did describe it as a "foodie Disneyland."

Rancho's take seems spot on...he was clearly charmed.

I still thing the $8 eggs, even at $7, are a little absurd, though.

Off to my own market! Sadly, no pancakes.

[moosnsqrl]

Put me down with Russ on this one. Perhaps due in part to the fact that I read this thread first, but the article seems lazy and derivative. What is he saying here that hasn't been said before? I love sarcasm and snideness as much as anyone but his brand isn't so special that he needs to re-cover the same ground that's already been trod - to death. Bay Area, granola-eating, Birkenstock-wearing, yada yada yada. We get it, already.

One thing that no one else has mentioned, though, that bothered me:

the Bay Area has contributed surprisingly little to the culinary ripening of America considering its proximity to fertile growing regions from the Central Valley to Napa and Sonoma counties.

What city (apart from, presumably, NYC) has contributed to a greater extent when weighed against it's proximity to a production area? We're in the wheat belt here, but hardly on the cutting edge of producing stellar breads, so I'm sure we've fallen short of the mark. Much of the heirloom/heritage turkey, pork and beef beloved by chefs on both coasts is raised here, so we should probably be raising the bar on those fronts as well. I've not read the NOLA article that everyone is referring to but there seems to be a pattern of metropolitan areas failing to live up to his expectations. And then there are those damn noisy bells in Montepulciano. Maybe he's just getting too old to travel.

Edited to insert comma.

Edited June 2, 2007 by moosnsqrl (log)