Margaret Pilgrim

Cholula was for years my airline companion. I used to buy the tiny 2 ounce bottles by the case just for air travel. Sky Chefs hasn't invented a food perversion that Cholula can't mitigate, be it airline-omelet or seagull-in-the-sky. My most memorable Cholula sitcom occurred when my husband and I were seated A and C, with a stranger in the middle seat. When the meal was served, I pulled out my Chulula, tilted it and uncapped it, to have it torrent into my palm because of the pressurized cabin. With great steadiness, I set the bottle on my tray, licked the enormous glob off my left palm, recapped the bottle and ate my dinner. It was only after we were off the plane that my husband told me that precisely as I was juggling my Cholula, he dropped his bloody Mary into his lap, and was similarly trying to mop up the splash. I don't want to hear the stories the young man seated between us told whoever met him when we arrived! Hope it wasn't any of you.

Danielle, first may I say how pleased I am too see you posting again. Your information is always excellent and much appreciated. I am particularly grateful for this timely news of your recent find in Lyon. I would add that I see that Oxalis is, as are most good Lyon dining rooms, closed on Sundays and Mondays. However, with your glowing report, we may have to juggle our dates a bit so as to be able to sample the Ezgulian's hospitality. Many thanks.

Cornichon ice cream, served as part of a deconstructed hamburger at L'Astrance: ground roast pork, covered with melted tomme cheese and topped with cornichon ice cream. The ice cream was rather interesting, an extension of the tarrigon sorbet concept. (The rest was peculiar at best.) re lavender, one of the loveliest flavor combinations occurred when we were making creme brulees in both lavender and meyer lemon flavors. At the end, we combined the last of the lavender custard with the last of the meyer lemon custard and made one combination. It was hands-down the best of the three. We have since used that combination for superb ice cream. Also wonderful is premium (read high fat) yogurt, sweetened (3/4 sugar to a quart of yogurt) and flavored with a FEW (4) drops of true lavender essential oil. Freeze as usual.

Chocolate and jalapeno, as they do it at Restaurant Alma in the Mission District in San Francisco: intense chocolate with minced jalapeno wandering through it, not hot, but a terrific chile finish. Soba, I would think that since both Quik and Ovaltine have dried milk in them that you would get more of a chocolate sherbet, rather than sorbet. We make wonderful chcolate sorbet with Hershey's cocao powder (and sugar).

Menton, we will be facing the same situation this fall. Gault-Millau indicates, as Bux suggested, that there are many "13" (read: possibly small, probably ordinary, at least average) choices. Looking above that rating, I note that that Le Saint Alban (2 quai Jean Moulin) , rated "14" is open Mondays but closed Sundays, while Le Trois Domes, "15", in the Sofitel Bellecour, is open both days, and L'Art en Ciel, also "15", located in the Meridien Part Dieu, is open Monday but closed Sunday.

Adding still another tangent to this thread, for those of you who are used to charging goods and services in France but haven't been in recent weeks, be prepared for "sticker shock" when you reconcile your next credit card bill. During the past year I have grudgingly accepted the 2 to 3% surcharge added by VISA for conversion on foreign purchases as a small cost for ease of doing business. However, when added to the recent plunge in the dollar, I was appalled at the difference in conversion of euros to dollars during an April visit compared with our March visit. When a 625 euro charge comes through at $707, you are aware of a sizable chunk of change! (My husband, who just brought in the paper, just called to me that yesterday the euro is up to 1.1738. That hurts.)

I need to comment here. We were in France (Paris and the southwest) when the war broke out (March 12 through 25). Both before and after our invasion, we were treated with at least the usual warm welcome we are used to. If anything, we were uncomfortable at the extraordinary measures people went to put us at ease. When we were in customs at our return to San Francisco, I commented to my husband that I only hoped that the many French people from our flight from Paris would be made to feel as welcome here and now. We return to France on April 10 for several weeks without trepidation.

Stone, are you referring to Lucca? I think it is on the corner (across the street from Alma) of Valencia and 22nd or 23rd. If so, they have, we think, the best price on Parmesano-Regiano in town, about $9.99 a pound as I remember. We only buy it there. We also usually pick up a piece or two of whatever else looks good that day: Spanish goat, often a fresh mozerella ball or two, whatever their special is that week. We also buy our coteghino there, as well as our "house" cooking olive oil: Tiger, which usually sells at around $11. for the standard 3 (?) litre can. These are "good people", and you can take their advice about anything they sell.

Thanks for bringing Elle's interesting list to our attention. I have been titillated by one address for some time: grandterriors, 30 rue miromesnil. This is a tiny storefront. Surrounded by shelves of packaged products from the countryside are a couple of communal tables where a dozen or so neighborhood "suits" belly up to downhome plates that are created from the products on the shelves. I would guess that reservations are essential, and it is, therefore, a destination lunch site, even though an idiosyncratic one. I hope someday to have time to try it.

When we visited La Galube in March 2002, the reception was warm, service throughout the meal was excellent. The food was at best ordinary. We felt that they probably started with top quality produce and meat, but the cooking showed neither perfection in simplicity nor any attempt at complexity. The meal was completely lacking in soul or inspiration. We left shaking our heads in puzzlement at its 2-star rating.

Good list, Wannabake. All excellent sources. I personally enjoy Artisan Cheese, as well as shopping for both bread and cheese at the Embarcadero Farmer's Market on Saturday mornings. And a bread list in SF needs to include Liguria Bakery on the corner of Stockton and Vallejo for plain, green onion, tomato or raisin focaccio. They used to charge a dime to cut a (9x12) sheet into small squares so you could eat it in the park across the street. Besides classic breads, both Bay Bread and Tartine offer a selection of savory flatbreads (focaccio, pissaladiere, etc) topped with ham, cheese, olives, etc., as well as filled small breads. Bay Bread reminds one of a good bakery in France; everything is classically correct. Besides breads and small breads, Tartine has some of the most beautiful cakes, tarts and pastries I have ever seen: real flowers or delicate petals turn their creations into flights of fancy too pretty to cut. note: Tartine is on the corner of 18th St and Guerrero.

Regarding loufood's glass containers, I bring home from France, read that again: I wash out and haul home from France as many of the glass, glass with plastic lids and brown stoneware ones that I can fit into my luggage! My husband bites his tongue as my collection grows on the mantle in our hotel room. I have trained the housekeeping staff not to touch my empty yogurt containers!! Once home, I use them for jams and jellies, with parafin or with the plastic lid. The stoneware work fine in the oven for custards, and a couple are in duty as sugar bowls and potpourri (lavender) holders! I always think I have enough and that I won't cart home anymore, but faced with the option of tossing one out or leaving it on the breakfast tray, I slink into the bathroom and wash it out. Sad compulsion. And yogurt in French is yaourt, still another spelling. wink:

Loufood speaks the truth! I bring home from France, read that again: I bring home from France as many of the glass, glass with plastic lids and brown stoneware ones that I can fit into my luggage! My husband tries to look the other way as my collection grows on the mantle in our hotel room. I have trained the housekeeping staff not to touch my empty yogurt containers!! Once home, I use them for jams and jellies, with parafin or with the plastic lid. The stoneware work fine in the oven for custards, and a couple are in duty as sugar bowls and potpourri (lavender) holders! I always think I have enough and that I won't cart home anymore, but faced with the option of tossing one out or leaving it on the breakfast tray, I slink into the bathroom and wash it out. Sad compulsion. And yogurt in French is yaourt. wink:

Some people have brought up the distinction of "bread" and "breads", which to me mean loaf bread and small breads, or muffins, buns and rolls. In America, in certains eras and in certain regional type restaurants it has been traditional to serve baskets of what were purported to be warm housemade small breads. I have been offered warm "loaf" bread of what I discerned to be of ordinary quality and dubious age. In more food-focused restaurants, superior bread has usually been served at room temperature, either with butter or in the last few decades, olive oil. I don't remember being served warm bread in France, except at breakfast.

Stonyfield, Mountain High, White Mountain and Brown Cow are lovely. They are, however, a completely different product from Biblos, which is a full fat yogurt, worth every calorie. If you can't find this brand, look for other Mid-East styles with calorie counts of around 225 per cup.

I gave up making yogurt at home in the '70s, too sour, too austere. Yaacov is on the right track, making yogurt "cheese", if you don't have access to good, thick, rich and mellow Greek-style yogurt. We enjoy "Biblos" brand. (They also make Lebni, a sinfully rich yogurt-type spoon-cheese. ) Good straight from the refrigerator with honey and dried cherries, which is the way this brand is served as a dessert at restaurant Chez Nous. We also freeze it, simply sweetened with about 3/4 cup of sugar per quart, then tossed into a Donvier. Excellent. About $2.99 at ethnic stores. For Stone and other SF readers, it is always available at 22nd and Irving Produce, a place you should be familiar with if you aren't already.

I have only used my premium card concierge services once, and, yes, they did provide a range of dining rooms that minimally fit my request. These results would have probably served a novice traveler adequately; they were better than no referals at all. As Lizziee has suggested, they offer little to anyone who has established other trustworthy sources of travel information.

Does anyone else remember when Bon Appetit was "Sphere", a cooking and crafts magazine sponsored by Betty Crocker? This was in the mid-'70s, and many issues were keepers, such as April 1978 special issue on Greece. This issue is a mini-Greek cookbook, including such hands-on as filo dough from scratch. The cover is loose from my copy, the pages stained from use and misuse, and although I have 5 other Greek cookbooks, I'll never part with this issue.

Last night we visited Gerald Hirigoyen's Piperade (corner of Green and Battery). Both food and service were absolutely true to what you experience in the Pays Basques. Hirigoyen is at last, I believe, following his heart with this restaurant. While his Fringale has always been a reliable destination, he seems working from real passion at Piperade. His enthusiasm resounds in the food, and permeates down to every level of service. Last night, Hirigoyen was much in evidence, stopping at tables to discuss the food, his homeland and his youth in the Pay Basque. He seemed to be enjoying the evening as much as his guests, while at the same time every member of the service team performed flawlessly. The menu is divided into small and large plates. The small are substantial, and the large are enough for two! There is also a daily special large plate; on Thursdays it is braised lamb shoulder. We ordered two small and two large: a garlic scented fish soup, lamb sweetbreads with Jerusalem artichokes, braised lamb shoulder, and a fish and shellfish stew in a tomato-red pepper sauce. All of these were excellent. The accompanying levain-type bread served with EVOO in which had been placed a dried red pepper was excellent. We ordered a 2000 Domaine Etxegaraya Irouleguy, which was excellent. Instead of dessert, we returned to the small plate section and chose to split between us the Basque cheese assortment served with cherry confit and quince paste. To the best that I could interpret, Hirigoyen's food is true to tradition and of the highest qaulity produce. It pains me to admit that not five minutes after wine service I managed to knock my wine glass over half the table. Our waiter was tableside with an armload of napkins within seconds, had the spill under control and within a minute three waitpeople arrived with fresh tablecloth and settings. I have never had a catastrophe handled with such speed and grace. We were, in fact, told that it was a nightly occurance, almost suggesting that they would be disappointed without one! It is exciting to me to see a chef so living his dream and so inspire his staff. In addition, the room is nicely soundproofed to the extent that throughout our meal conversation was easy and comfortable. There are a couple of outside tables in a heated loggia for smokers. If I have a quibble with anything about this lovely experience it is that while staying close to his Basque roots in his cooking, Hirigoyen has bowed to American super-sizing of portions. Next time I may well choose several of the small plates. Prices are very reasonable. Small plates are around $8 (cheese, $10 and foie gras, $15), large plates around $17. Our wine was midrange at $32. His wine collection is heavily regional, and if ours was any indication, well chosen. He offers 5 interesting dessert wines by glass and bottle, ranging from a Juracon douz, a muscat, to a d'Yquem. This is a wonderful diningroom to visit when you want a taste of home, even if it's someone else's. We'll definitely be back. Piperade

Pasteles are a kind of Puerto Rican tamale. They are a filling of pork, tomato, chile, olive, chick peas surrounded by a seasoned mash of green banana, plantain and taro. I used to find them both ready-to-eat and frozen to-go at a coffee shop on the east side of 6th Ave near 14th Street. I don't remember the name and have tossed my notes. I see that the card from Jimmy's Lechonera (1875 Lexington; tel: 369-9613) lists them as specialties. There is a recipe in Dora Romano's "Rice and Beans and Tasty Things: a Puerto Rican Cookbook" ISBN 0-9633449-1-9.

Jacqueline Friedrich describes the "Vignerons dans nos Appellations" federation that protects individuality in wine production. Interesting article on vintnors who produce outstanding but atypical wines that are denied an appellation, not because they are inferior, but because they are "different" from AOC expectations and fail the "agrement".

ROTFL!! You have just told the story of my 44 year marriage! How do you explain to a man who doesn't cook that the fabulous creation at dinner last night was the serendipidous combination of half a cup of braise gravy, some flavor concentrated (read: aged ) mushrooms, a long-in-the-tooth parsnip, several scraps of unidentifiable cheese, etc., etc.. He, an engineer, begs for me to keep "lab notes" so I can repeat these masterpieces, and I smile, shake my head and wish that "Men are from Mars...." had come out decades ago!

I was introduced to Tellecherry peppercorns some twenty years ago, tried them, thought "ho hum", used them up and forgot about them. I recently bought them again, and "Wow!" They are fabulous: distinctive black pepper taste, fruity if that is possible, pungent but with flavor, not heat. I don't know if my initial batch was stale when I bought it, but I will certainly continue to use this specialty black peppercorn.

Bernard Anthony has been written up several times of late in American food magazines, the most recent that I remember is October 2000 Gourmet. As I posted previously, he presents reservations-only weekend degustations of cheese, bread and appropriate wines. Bernard Anthony 17 rue de la Montagne Vieux-Ferrette 03.89.40.42.22

I have to agree with Bux on all counts. Breyer's Natural Vanilla is the cleanest flavor we have found. We make all manner of fruit, herb and spice flavored "frozen desserts" and seldom run into trouble unless we combine a heavy substance like chocolate with a rich custard, which produces too rich a product for us. We make frozen custard or simply frozen flavored cream, or frozen super-rich yogurt, depending on whim, and find that the final product is more dependent on the flavoring agent, i.e., how flavorful the fruit is, than on the kind of dairy base. We never try to duplicate a commercially available flavor. I mean, what's the point? My one caviat: be very careful with the amount of alcohol in any recipe. I had to remove a prune/cognac custard from the machine and freeze it in a pan, ala parfait. It simply had too much alcohol to freeze in the machine. Also, as already mentioned, sugar is necessary for a creamy finish. Imitation, eg Equal, will result in a rock-hard ice.