Margaret Pilgrim

Boulangerie (aka Bay Bread) 2325 Pine Street (off Fillmore) San Francisco, CA 94115 415-440-0356 They have about a half-dozen flavors at any given time. I'm not sure, but they may ship.

Aix, we found that most of the best was represented at Les Halles, the huge, modern food market. Bernachon, one of France's finest chocolatiers, is a must visit. also visit Mano for bread, Tourtiller for cakes and pastry. We stayed at Hotel des Artistes, a 3* a couple of blocks northwest of place Bellecour. It was adequate, but nothing special. We looked into Hotel Globe et Cecil, which had somewhat more style, was slightly closer to Bellecour and cost only 10 euro more than Artistes. France magazine recommended a wonderfully funky "al etage" hotel on the southern border of place Bellecour, Hotel Bayard. It's brochure shows wildly luxe and idiocyncratic bedrooms and makes claim to charming service. Do get a "ticket liberte" for 4 euro which allows use of all public transportation for one day. Be forwarned that you will have to buy your ticket with coin. We loved both food and service at Bouchon Daniel et Denise. Les Halles 102 Course Lafayette closed Monday Bernachon 42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt closed Monday Mano 92 grand rue de la Guillotiere Tourtilier 4 Cours Franklin Roosevelt Hotel des Artistes Hotel Globe et Cecil 21 rue Gasparin 04.78.42.58.95 Hotel Bayard 23 place Bellecour 04.78.37.39.64 Daniel et Denise 156 rue de Créqui

Lou, you touch on something else of importance. We have stayed at the same hotel in the 7th for over 10 years, and in doing so have a "rat track" of neighborhood food purveyers that we buy from almost daily. That does not mean that we think these are the best in Paris, but they are quite suitable for a daily artisanal baguette, chunk of cheese, slice of pate between our visits to destination shops. We are recognized and welcomed by these small merchants/producers, and are made to feel part of a community by them that we would never feel in a chain, nor at any of the grande food annexes. And to us, this is a big part of what going to France is about.

The Montorguiel thread made me reflect on macarons we had sampled. Chocolate are my favorite; nothing subtle there. One year we overdosed on samples from Hermes, Hevin, Maison du Chocolat, Ladurie and Paul. Frankly, I thought that the flavor was cleanest in the least expensive ones at Paul. Several others actually tasted stale or had off-flavors. Prices range from around $3 to $5 a piece, although there are large differences in size. Pauls', the cheapest, are also the largest. I did notice on our last trip that Ladurie was featuring a new flavor: very dark chocolate. Because I liked theirs among the least, I didn't bother to try this interesting variation at that time. What are your favorites?

Montorguiel was and is still a charming and even useful street. But we are dismayed that each visit brings a new hip boutique and the resulting demise of a sometimes half-hundred year old food-oriented business. Last year I walked the lower portion over and over trying to find the old "peas, beans and grains out of sacks" seller where I'd stop by each trip to buy Tarbais beans. Verdict? Gone. Sad. I'll add another plug for a very accommodating wine store on that block: Tchin-Tchin at No. 9. On our first visit, looking for a very esoteric wine and year, the merchant got so involved in our search that he called several possible caves for us, and actually found it and had it held for us. When we insisted on making an "obligatory purchase", he practically refused to sell to us, asking us only to return another time.

Marcus and Bux echo my thoughts. At a point in your life you realize that you have enjoyed both good times and bad, and if you are really lucky, you will enjoy more good times and bad! In a hundred years, all will even out. More foie gras, more "3 wedges for $24 Reine Astrid glaceed fruit nougat", more....!

BettyK's post sent me to my bookshelf where I found that Anne Willan's "La Varenne Practique" has double-truck charts that allow one to compare American and French animal breakdown. There are charts for veal, beef, lamb and pork. These excellent charts (American on one page, French on the opposite pate) are worth studying from the points of view of buying the meat called for in a French recipe as well as ordering off a French menu.

First, you gotta love anyone who so succinctly phrases the universal problem: my math is great; my arithmetic sucks! That said, I think the key to this problem is found in BettyK's latest clue that the cut she wants is for braising. Bux's boneless shoulder butt, or I think commercially called Boston Butt, would be perfect for this purpose. It also comes from the mysterious region on the pig that we have been dancing around.

I have just been advised by a returning diner that Au Gourmand is not a good address, and that the food is not what I described in my initial post. I am saddened to hear this, but need to warn those who read my earlier report. My appologies to anyone who has been disappointed.

admajoretal...I am interested in your reference to Les Fontaines. We haven't been there in probably 10 years. Can you bring us up to date in a thread of its own? Many thanks.

For 30 years I have made gingerbread men (wrapped tightly in Saran and tied with red satin ribbons) at Christmas. We hang them on the tree, and they disappear over the holidays. We also have a basket of wrapped "men" for guests. For the last few years, I have let this tradition slide into the holidays, only to be asked at some point, "Where are the gingerbread men", and having to bake up several batches to assuage the demand! As Saab dictates, you'll have to "Find your own road!"

Because its second incarnation garnered such mixed-to-negative reviews shortly after opening, I was interested and surprised to see that San Francisco Magazine this month gave 231 close to a perfect review. Have any of you visited 231 recently, and have they really pulled themselves up to this level? Me Butter, have you heard anything? Anyone? Many thanks.

By all means, Jeff, if your wife has her heart set on Versailles, take her there. It is a very simple RER ride (from St. Michel or other left bank RER C Line stations) on the C5 (Rive Gauche/Chateau de Versailles terminus) line, zone 4. Versailles is a pleasant little town for an afternoon walk in addition to the many attractions of the Chateau and gardens. I would definitely get information before hand at a tourist office regarding opening hours for both independent and tour opportunities.

I'm very late to this thread. I agree with Bux regarding sharing tastes and the occasional exchange of plates. We have not too infrequently had a waiter appear from nowhere to provide the proper silverware for the "new" plates, eg, a fish knife and fork or a spoon, when the original plate had not called for either. We always have found the attitude of the waitstaff to be one of wanting us to fully enjoy what we ordered, regardless of who ordered which. re Robert Brown's original question, we really don't have a problem with the idyocracies of dining companions since my husband's idea of the perfect table is "2"! He can on occasionally be pushed to stretch that to "4", but not beyond. More than 4 will be entertained at home. We really don't see n any context people who behave badly. It's a sheltered life, but one of the luxuries of age!

Very true, Marcus. However, my reference to the forum referred to eG people's perceived experiences, not the source of our personal misadventures. The places that disappointed us were, in fact, GM coup de cour at the time of our visits, and dining rooms and hotels reviewed and honored by Michelin. My point is that by the time that the consumer reads a M or GM review, close to a year has elapsed. The venue visited is not the same one that the initial reviewer/s experienced. In addition, there is the effect of that very review on the sheer numbers of eager clients and the capabilities of the provider.

I've found it interesting to notice how often in recent threads people's differing expectations result in completely different evaluations of similar dining experiences. Many have visited the restaurants in question on the basis of the same reviews, which have obviously conjured up totally different images of what that dining experience would be, hence wildly enthusiastic praise from one poster and withering disparagement from another. The problem is that both reports are true and valid in terms of the reality of the individual writer. Personally, we have experienced real disappointment at some universally loved restaurants, and haved probably caused our own problems by expecting too much on subsequent visits after experiencing a near perfect first visit at others. At the same time, we frequently find treasure in food and service when we least expected it. It has become rather obvious that someone who dines mostly in very expensive restaurants may well overestimate the value of a moderately but not extraordinarily well executed inexpensive meal, and that someone with no experience in haute cuisine may be overly impressed with an ambitious and inventive plate that lacks perfect execution. How do we read so as to perceive with more acuity what our individual experience will be in a given restaurant? How can we more accurately compare someone else's experiences and therefore expectations to our own? Saab says it best in its commercials: "Find your own road." But it's not easy.

I used to think it was all about the food. Of late I have come to feel that it is the overall impression of the evening that you will remember longer. Of course, there are always those startlingly good plates that come to mind, but they are so much better when they are part-and-parcel of a cossetting meal in an honest dining room.

Just last month I enjoyed (twice) an appetizer of escargot ravioli in a reduced cream sauce, very sheer pasta, in which the escargot were chopped fine and very lightly seasoned. Maybe could we put a hint of safron in the cream sauce for the mussels?

Were I in your shoes, I would head to either "Tchin Tchin" or "La Derniere Goutte", both tremendously user-friendly wine shops where the affable merchants speak perfect English. Either of these shops should be able to point you toward such a class if it is available. Tchin Tchin 9, rue Montorgueil 75001 La Derniere Goutte 6, rue de Bourbon Le Chateau 75006 More formal, but very helpful: Legrand 1, rue de la Banque 75003

This is a tough one. I know, as I wrestled with it last year when I flirted with a Christmas visit to Paris. As you have probaby figured out, most restaurants that come to mind are closed on Christmas Day, many for the entire week. In the price range of your Au Pied de Cochon is the pretty Grand Colbert. It is not a restaurant that I would normally choose, but it is a lovely room, a classic brasserie fom the 19th Century that has been nicely restored. I did contact them last year and received a very cordial reply, saying that they would indeed be open and would welcome us to a fine Christmas dinner. One review Grand Colbert 2 rue Vivienne 2nd arrondisement 01.42.86.87.88 le.grand.colbert@wanadoo.fr

I agree with most of you that requesting a copy of a menu is situational. Most nights I try to subtly jot down a few notes at table or immediately upon returning to our hotel. At Au Gourmand, the service had been so adorable and personal that I felt comfortable asking if they had "an old, maybe torn" copy of the insert that I could have. The maitre d' (co-owner) shrank in mock horror, and pronounced that, "No! But I have a brand new one for you." He brought us the entire formal stiff-board menu, but I accepted only the insert. Although I ask for a menu less and less frequently nowdays, I have never, with the exception of an early visit to Le Regalade, been turned down. Most places have seemed quite pleased to oblige, many going so far as to bring an autographed one.

Eddang, I have an off-the-wall suggestion for you. If you are looking for a chic dining room with attentive service and lovingly prepared and plated food, I would suggest that you contact Au Gourmand (my October 30 post) and tell them exactly what you have told us: that it will be in important birthday for you, that you had hoped to get into L'Astrance, that you are looking for a memorable evening. Ask they if they would be willing to serve you a tasting menu made up from their regular menu, ie, small servings of double the number of courses. Their menu would work well for this, and the maitre d'/co-owner is adorable and caring. When we were there the second time, there was a table of 4 at the back of the dining room who were enjoying a long and attentively served meal, possibly what I am describing. You could probably negotiate the price per person. Since their menu is 33 euro for three courses, you should be able to stay well within your target price range. Also, and not to be underestimated in the quality of your evening, at this time they are not trying to turn the tables, so you won't be rushed through what you had hoped to be a celebratory evening. Again, I would just be honest in describing what you would like to enjoy, and see if they seem enthusiastic to provide it for you. By all means use my name if you wish. They may remember us.

Oh yes, Au Petit Tonneau is a tiny, nieghborhood treasure. It is, in my mind, the classic moma and pop operation, no decor, the diners all seemingly regulars, the food honest, well conceived and prepared, and certainly generous, as is the service. Madame Boyer serves up the only Andouillette that I can describe as "delicious". (She came to our table after dinner during her round of chatting up guests, looked at my empty plate, showed relief and confessed that she always worried when non-French ordered andouilette.)

Dodin, I just pulled up the RATP itinerary site , plugged in St. Lazare and Le Perreux, and the departure time of 20h, and got the above information on a pop-up, including a super map that shows the station opening onto Blvd. de la Liberte, which deadends at Les Magnolias front door on Avenue Bry. The site told me that there is a 3 minute walk from Gare St. Lazare to the RER station, a 25 minute trainride, a 1 minute walk through the Le Perreux RER station, for a total travel time of 29 minutes! These Frenchmen are amazing! I didn't stay around long enough to ask them when the last train is. As I remember, it is around 12:45am, but this is old and sketchy information.

Dodin, I have posted this before, but it always seems to be new to someone. If you go to Les Magnolias by train, make sure you take the E RER train to Le Perroux, not the A RER train to Nogent. The E train will take you within several long blocks of Les Magnolias; the A train's stop in Nogent is a mile+ away. Enjoy.