Margaret Pilgrim

It's far from new. It has been mentioned several times, but, as I remember, most posts suggested that it had hit the slippery slopes of decline. Does it have new a new chef or management?

Nope, no bribes, secret passwords, or favors... I just did my research on the policies of the restaurants and planned accordingly and in advance (although only about 1 month in advance, but apparently it was enough)... I think the best advice I can give you is to be as authoritative and confident as possible over the phone when making reservations... I definitely had the distinct impression a few times that the person on the other end of the phone was trying to scare me off by being rude but I always stood my ground and ended up with 6 reservations, all with great tables and absolutely no problems when I showed up at the restaurants... Oh, one other thing I did was call every restaurant to re-confirm once I got to Paris, and I gave them my local cell phone number in Paris (I bought a sim card for my phone so I'd have a local mobile number) and I think many of the restaurants appreciated that... But anyway, I have no "secret"... Honestly, I think there is a lot of luck involved for first time reservations... But, remember, if you do get in, and plan to go again, definitely let the head waiter, or maitre d, or whoever is around that night when you are eating dinner, know that you want to return... They should (if you didn't do something to piss them off) tell you the best way to get another reservation, and they may even pencil you into the reservation book if you know about when you will be returning... Hopefully I've been helpful... Let me know if you have any other questions... Exactly. Perhaps Backward Hat's response deserves a thread of its own. I'll admit that many reservations seem impossible to get, but following a restaurant's reservation procedure to the letter, with the courtesy of a follow up confirmation, is always a good place to start. Nicely done, BH.

I was also curious, as a frame of reference, as to how you would compare it to the best Italian gelati. Marcus, we haven't visited Italy in over 20 years , so my recollections are in no way current. Also, we would need to agree on what is the best Italian gelati, another hurdle. I remember that we used to go to Vivoli in Florence, and while sampling Tre Scalini, we usually headed for Giolitti or della Palma near the Pantheon in Rome. That said, I remember gelati in Italy to be softer and less dense than Damman's. I think of them as similarly intensely flavored. Since I prefer sorbets to be part of or to end a meal, I seldom order them outside the context of a meal, and so can't speak to them. Again, my best advice is for you to try Damman's for yourself. Maybe you'll be a convert, and maybe you'll head straight back to Berthillon...or Italy!

Hey, Bux! Welcome to my thinking on all things special. So how do we share these "so interesting to so few" addresses? PMs?

Jamie, I am so thrilled to hear someone else toot Au Petit Tonneau's horn! This is such a charming little neighborhood dining room, and, yes, her Andouillette is superb. Do we not need a "where to eat andouillette in Paris" thread? I know that Bux will join us.

Please forgive "Dammana"; the name is Damman's. Sometimes my fingers stutter. [NB: The topic title has been edited from the ealier typo to reflect the correct spelling of the shop. This explains some of the comments above.] Ice cream is a very personal thing. I have only tasted Berthillon's product a few times, but have not been particularly impressed with it. It has been little or no better than, or not as good as, what we make at home. I also objected to the cattle-lot queues and brusque order filling. It's not possible for me to compare Damman and Berthillon, head to head, flavor for flavor. I will say that I have never had a disappointing cup at Damman's, which I can't say for Berthillon. Damman's ice creams, as opposed to sorbets, are intensely flavored, rich and "chewable". Since there is no long line at Damman, a cheerful counterperson, often Mr. Damman himself, and comfortable seats for enjoying your purchase, I'd encourage you to drop by and do a taste test for yourself!

Saveurs magazine recently reviewed and recommended this tiny 20e dining room. What caught my eye was "l'andouillette AAAAA de Duval". I called from home to reserve for our first night in Paris. This is a tiny and joyously old-fashioned dining room. Madame is the only server, and I believe that the kitchen is almost as sparcely staffed. The clientele is strictly neighborhood, and the food is definitely homemade. My husband ordered an assiette de cochonnailles, and I delighted in watching Madame select and carve off pieces of several hams and assorted sausages for him, plopping on as final measure a large spoon of rillettes d'oie. I looked for balance by ordering simply a plate of raw vegetables which arrived nicely sauced. Good bread. A huge virgin bowl of jambon persille was brought out for a neighboring table. My husband ordered giant prawns in a provençal sauce (not, to my mind a good choice, but seemingly satisfactory to him). But I had come for the Andouillette! My plate arrived with a starkly plain grilled sausage and heap of frittes. But what a sausage and what frittes! The andouillette was so crisp that its skin popped like the crust of creme brulee. The center was tender; the flavor clean and lovely. The potatoes were equally crisp on the outside and meltingly tender inside. I almost ate them all! I don't remember dessert, and my notes don't indicate any. I can't imagine that we had room at any rate. With aperitifs and a half bottle of Beaujolais and coffee, our tiny tab was 69 euros. But best of all, we knew we were in France! 49, rue de la Chine 20e 01.44.62.93.31 (edited to include address and phone)

We chuckled at the lengthy lines snaking down the street from Berthillon's window. We were heading, instead, to Damman's in the fifth. We were introduced to Dammon's when they operated the ice cream concession wagon in the Place du Carrousel. Originally domiciled on rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Damman last fall moved to it current sleek and modern shop on the corner of Grande Degres and Maitre Albert. While my husband won't budge from their Bulgarian Youart flavor, I have become addicted to the new and seriously good caramel aux beurre sel . In addition, the service is hospitable and the clientele from the neighborhood.

We've just unpacked our treasures from the Spring Fermier and Vignorons Independents shows, and what shows they were! For a number of years we have enjoyed the October Fermier Show at Champeret, and were excited to hear that a new Spring show would take place for the first time at Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. As advertised, a shuttle picks up visiters at the Chateau de Vincennes metro station and takes them directly to Parc Floral. I loaded up on eau de vies, lavender products, specialty olives, foie gras and boudin, and sampled more than enough for lunch. At the same time at Porte de Champeret, the Vignorons Independents show is literally indescribable. All of the exposition halls at Champeret are called into use for this one. I am guessing, but there are probably more than 500 exibitors, each offering (and sampling) from 3 to 6 or so wines. With your issued-with-admission glass, you prowl the aisles and taste at will. The producers are darling and tremendously interested in teaching you about their product. Aisles are alphabetized...and you quickly learn to pace and prioritize by the time you get to, maybe, B-35! Hand-trucks are for sale for those who buy in case lots. If not, bring a huge carrier bag. We came home with some of the most amazing specialty sweet wines and fruit distillations: orange, apricot, apple, cherry, all from different houses. There are shippers on the premises for those who decide to put down a quantity of wines. Also vendors of cellars, glassware, corking apparatus, etc. Remember: Fermier Shows at Easter and last week of October Independent vintnor shows at Easter and first week of December Don't miss these if you're in town next season.

We visited MVA last week. It is indeed sleek and chic. Welcome is pleasant and seating is comfortable. I immediately noticed that the silverware was heavy and good-feeling, and that the handle of my knife was covered with fingerprints. The menu was much as Patricia Wells described, as was the immediately offered (and offert) glass of Alsatian pinot blanc. I found the bread much more ordinary than Wells described. We ordered the pate en croute and the root vegetbles in broth. We went on to veal kidneys (rare) with small potatoes in Pinot Noir sauce and cod with carrots, raisins and dates in a citrus broth, finishing with a warm chocolate tart and apples in Grand Marnier with pear sorbet and brioche "french toast". This all sounds much more interesting than it was to eat. There were no major mistakes in concept or execution, nor anything that seduced the palate. We traded every course midway because our plates failed to hold our interest. Major selling points: 38 euro 3 course menu; open for Sunday dinner. Note: this appears to be a minority opinion.

We used the TGV on April 6 and April 9 to and from Avignon and Paris. On both trains one could see that the luggage areas had been sealed off with plastic-wrap barriers. In each instance, the plastic had been torn away and luggage was being stored in the usual luggage spaces. Conductors were aware of the situation and made no attempt to replace the barriers or prevent luggage from being stored in those areas. It seems that at present this is another regulation observed in the absence of its inforcement.

That's how I read it also. I don't think that Camdebord has anything to do with L'Ourcine beyond his initial sponsorship or encouragement. I called L'O this morning and booked for this Friday night on the basis of Figaroscope's three heart review.

Today we bottled the Vin d'Orange we started on March 2 using Lucy's recipe. We are a couple of days short of the suggested maceration time, but we are leaving on a trip tomorrow. We used honey tangerines for ours, and the flavor today is lovely. There is a subtle complexity from the vanilla bean and cinnamon stick. I may in the future also try a batch without the spices for a purer citrus taste. We used snap-top/rubber ringed French lemonade bottles, and will keep the wine in the refrigerator since it is not properly corked. I will be interested in tasting it over the course of its tenure. Many thanks, Lucy. Mireille Durandeau's recipe is a keeper! We will salute her and you whenever we serve this vin d'orange. In addition, since we have several pomegranite trees, I can't wait for fall to try JennotJenn's concept, as well as cherry and green walnut wines this summer. I am very interested in the many possibilities this thread suggests, and in hearing others' results. Thanks, all.

Has anyone returned to the US with foie gras since the new regulation went into effect? Is the regulation being enforced in regards to individual travelers (as opposed to importers)? Ignored? Anyone want to talk about it?

Let's do lunch

Lescure is one of the most unusual dinners we have ever had in Paris. I posted about it years ago on rec travel europe. At reception, you are asked smoking or non, and when you say non, you are excorted to an alcove table that seats around 10, all Americans. It was a mixed bag: a professor, minister, travel agent all with spouses, a mother/college-aged daughter duet and us. The table changes when those on the outside are finished, so that the people on the inside can get out. Food is passed over the heads of those sitting on the outside, with the waiter occasionally bobbing your head for you! The food was surprisingly decent. I remember some excellent chanterelle ravioli type things and that several other dishes around the table were quite interesting. As I remember, desserts were simple and good. It is dirt cheap, and although we were somewhat boggled by it at the time, it remains a memorable evening. Should one want to avoid this kind of sitting, ask for "Fumer" at reception, and you will be shown to the French section.

We will be using the TGV during upcoming Easter week, and will report on our experience. We are certainly rethinking our packing for our three day out-of-Paris excursion. At this point, we will each take a single carry-on. What worries me is contemplating summer travel with inexperienced/uninformed vacation travellers necessarily hauling large cases and enormous backpacks. I have the feeling that this new restriction will have to be rethought, if for no other reason than maintaining luggage-free aisles and some degree of public safety.

We greet this change in luggage space as yet another facet of "Welcome to travel in the 21st Century." Looking for the silver lining, I will no longer have to let my husband crawl over me at each stop so he can go monitor the luggage area to make sure no one disboards with our luggage. On the serious side, of course Schneier is correct. And, certainly, many thanks to Mrs. B for the heads up.

We have had enormous success bringing just the opposite. When we visit a home we will take photos of the view from our bedroom window, of a pretty corner of the garden, of an interesting architectural feature of the house. When we return, we will bring one of these images in a simple but pretty frame. Our hosts are thrilled to receive something so personal that tells them how much we enjoyed a previous visit, and are charmed to see a view of their home from a different perspective.

Come west, young girl, come west!

FWIW, we visited Le Reminet sometime mid-2003 on a Sunday night. It was packed and so terribly noisy that we couldn't hold a conversation across the table. Both of our entrees and main courses were quite good, but we asked for the check before dessert or coffee. The chef came out and asked if everything was alright, and I told him that we simply had to leave because the noise was giving my husband a terrible headache. The chef asked us please to return, but to demand a table in the cellar, which he assured us was much more civilized. And with a wink, "locals, not tourists".

Feb/Mar French Saveurs Magazine has a nice review of this small restaurant in the 6th. The young chef, Claude Lamain has experience with Savoy and Ramsey. Unfortunately, the only websites I can find are in English and in German, neither of which tell you a quarter as much as would one in French! (I hate translated menues!) 26 euro lunch; 30 euro dinner menu. Closed Sundays. Aux Saveurs de Claude (English) Has anyone been?

Bigbear and Rachel, thanks for the excellent info and links. This book will help so many people.

OK, bleu, I have a plan. Do chambre d'hote. Do guided photo shoots. Your talents are wasted simply posting here. We're hooked, and we'll pay! If not, do keep your good posts coming.

Great ideas all. You have me leaning toward a savory custard. Maybe artichoke. I really like the idea of a trilogy of small (3 oz.) custards, maybe leek, artichoke or asparagus and maybe something like scallop. Maybe tomato sauce surround, mornay drizzle. It would be pretty, but plating would be a little tedious. I thought the different tastes might help alleviate the sameness of texture. Criticisms? I may print out these good and diverse suggestions for his wife, who faces this dilemna every day. Many, many thanks for your help. And do post any other ideas that come to mind. Thanks.