Margaret Pilgrim

You will be well served by any of the members of Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais. Please note that Daniel et Denise that I wrote about IS a member of this association, although not listed on their site, but that Le Saint Joseph is not. LSJ is appropriately several cuts below those in the association.

October 15 (2003) Figaroscope reviewed this dining room which opened the first week in September, giving it 3 hearts and much praise. We visited it the following Thursday, and again last Monday. This chic little (30 seat) room, located on Luxembourg Garden, is the love-child of an accountant who always wanted to cook professionally and the maitre d' who was a journalist. Somehow, they are making it work. The menu is based on several tenets. There is a new menu every month. Four appetizers are available every day. There are only two plate choices each day, one meat or fowl and one fish. The meats are from artisan boucher Hugo Desnoyer, and all have AOC attributions. There is a different special in each category each day. The menu-carte is 33 euro for three courses. A cheese course if available either instead of dessert or at a supplement. There is a full wine list, and also a single page of proposals that are very inexpensive and well chosen. The plates on our visits were stunning and delicious: Cappucino de potimarron et sorbet moutarde, des de gorgonzola Carpacco de veau de Correze a la tapenade et a l'huile d'amandes douces a special of sauteed langostine coated with pistachios another of bar tartare, pretty, but more mundane Dos de canard du Perigord a l'orange, panais rotis au miel de bruyere et au gingembre Lieu noir, legumes sautes a l'huile de cacaheuetes Epaule d'agneau de Lozere, cocotte de legumes au lard fermier a special of goulash of biche Creme brulee au the vert Matcha, raisins poeles "Tout chocolat", perhaps the best chocolate plate I have ever had Tarte fine aux figues et a la poire, glace a la cardamome Wonderful house made petit-pain was served with a large pot of sweet butter. The very hospitable maitre d' was assisted by two charming young women. Everyone had a grip on his job, ergo service was seamless. There is very soft jazz or semi-classical in the background, and conversation is easy. The style and aspiration of the food and dining room reminded us of L'Astrance when we first visited it and before prices and bookings mushroomed. We hope very much that this little jewel can keep its focus and current performance level. I'll be anxious to see how it winters and what it is like in the spring. My advice would be go soon and often and pray for a miracle. This place is a steal! Au Gourmand 22, rue de Vaugirard 06 01.43.26.26.45 There will be a website at www.augourmand.fr but it is still under construction.

We were to spend four nights in Lyon, and it was my intent to do a bouchon crawl and consume as much variety meats as I could, since I can't find that kind of food at home. Unfortunately, we arrived in Lyon from Paris quite sated, and it seemed better sense to try to eat lighter fare on our first night. We picked Restaurant Thomas, a Gault-Millau "coup du cour" although a very average "13". It is a tiny restaurant a few blocks southeast of Bellecour with a young chef, minimum staff and a dining room full of enthusiastic neighborhood diners. The food is nouveau bistro, the plates are quite lovely, the flavors and textures on point, and the service stretched to the very limits. Our orders pretty well describe the kind of food offered: pastilla of pintade, rouget entire with tapinade, celery soup with chestnut froth and foie gras die, braised lamb with curried fruit, cervelle de canuts. With aperitifs, wine and coffee, our check was an amazing 93 euros. No wonder the place was packed. They did not try for a second service. Restaurant Thomas The next night it was pouring rain and also Sunday, so my list of target restaurants was shortened to what was both within easy dash and open. Although we usually avoid tourist neighborhoods like the plague, we decided that Merciere was our best bet, and after reading numerous menus (in the comfort of awnings and terrace heaters) used the tried-and-true method of restaurant selection: the one that was most packed. This was the smallest buchon on the block, Le Saint Joseph. We were still looking for small plates, and were well served here with excellent but reasonably sized portions of Salad Lyonaise, andouillette in excellent mustard/white wine/cream sauce, Hot sausage and lentils, sirloin with Stl Marcelin, Agen prunes in spiced wed wine and again, cervelles de canuts. The only slip in the meal was the cervelles which was too salty. I can't find the case receipt, but with wine and coffee, I would estimate the tab at under 75 euros. In spite of this heavy food, we weren't stuffed. We booked at Daniel et Denise across the river on Monday. This is one of the Bouchon Association members, but the plates exhibited a slight nod to a more elevated cuisine. A plate of marinated red peppers was subtly dressed, and topped with a perfect poached egg. My husbands moules were the size I prefer: small medium, small enough to be delicate but large enough to be worthwhile messing with. He was served 84 as an appetizer; this is Lyon. I ordered gras double as plate, and was brought a serving for two at least. When I made a rather decent dent on it, the waiter nodded and confirmed, "Tres bien!" I should note that my husband does not share either my curiosity about variety meats nor my enjoyment. He ordered quenelle brochet, another Lyon classic. The quenelle was, I thought, quite boring, but the Nanua sauce was full of large chunks of lobster, and he loved it. With aperitifs, a bottle of water and of Brouilly, coffee, the bill was 79 euros. I love this place. We spent several hours of our last day reading menus on rues de Neuve and Major Matin, but decided that we were just as well off at our tried-and-true Le Saint Joseph, where quality was adequate and servings were more what we could handle. While I found several of the well-known bouchons tempting, my husband wanted neither offal nor steak, so his choices were limited. We repeated the salad Lyonnaise, I repeated the Andouillette, my husband switched to St. Jacques with fresh pasta. We both chose floating island. We will make a point of stopping in Lyon again to sample more of its bouchons, but will definitely target the very endearing Daniel et Denise. I should add that in our four evenings in Lyon, we heard no English spoken at any of these restaurants. Restaurant Thomas 6, rue Laurencin Lyon 02 04.72.56.04.76 Le Saint Joseph 46, rue Merciere Lyon 02 04.78.37.37.25 Daniel et Denise 156, rue Crequi Lyon 03 04.78.60.66.53

Marcus, can you give us a short list of some of the restaurants you have experienced (in Paris to make it simple) with which you compare La Regalade?

There is an interesting article in October (03) Saveurs featuring Catherine Guerraz and her eponymous restaurant. I was not aware that she had moved from her rue Provence location. Has anyone visited her year+ old new location: 3 rue Berryer? (Gault Millau 03 gives her a rating of 14 and a coup de coeur.) Chez Catherine 3, rue Berryer 8e 01.44.76.01.40

I am happy to read that you enjoyed this excellent dining room as much as we have. Some critics compare the imagination of the cuisine to Gagnaire. I would add that diners should allow enough time for a proper dinner here, perhaps 3 1/2 hours for a civilized dinner. We loved every course and the lovely service. A truc re getting there: if you don't take a cab, take the E RER from the Havre/Caumartin station to Nogent/Le Perreux station, not the A line as most food magazines would suggest.

Of similar interest, and not to be missed by those crawling around Pays Basques, are the enormous trading posts just yards over the border in Spain. The one in Dancharia, some 10km southwest of Espelette, was recommended to us by a local wine merchant as well as the owner of our hotel. These giant emporiums sell everything from whole porc noir hams, cheeses, Spanish wines and liquours, nougat and safron, canned, packaged and dry goods, paella pans (from 8" to a meter wide) and the accompanying gas rings (which my husband wanted with all his soul, but couldn't think of a need for), clay cookware and table ware, and of course, tobacco. The aisles are full of French housewives buying "tax free" in Spain. Our Paris hotelman told us of the one his father uses, due south of St. Jean de Luz, up a winding mountain road at Col de Lizarrieta. These "ventas" (pronounced bentas), the descendants of the "comptoirs de contrabande" or smugglers, are now completely tame and legal, but still a lot of fun.

They still think that, Bux. They just think you like older ladies!

Menton, I'd love to hear more about your access to international cheap rates, either by thread or pm. Just to muddy the water, I have called the SNCF 08 number I posted numerous times from the US, most recently last week. They go through with no problem, however they do cost from here.

I think it's been published on Eg before, but as a refresher, you can reach an English speaking SNCF representative at 33.(0)8.92.35.35.39. If calling within France, include the 0; if calling from outside France, omit it. It is not an inexpensive call, usually $10 to $15 to book a ticket, unless you happen to subscribe to an international calling plan. (By the way, we do. We pay $2.95 per month for a plan that gives us $.14 a minute calls to France. If you book (phone or fax) a substantial number of hotels, restaurants or transportation in France, this surcharge pays for itself very quickly. )

Without starting Burrito Wars, no trip to SF is complete without at least one burrito. Everyone has his own favorite, but we like the Pancho Villa/El Toro/Zapata group. I second Stone's rec for Zuni, and mention Lulu, also one of the early Cal/Med kitchens.

A couple of weeks ago we were in Paris and read in the July/August "Saveurs" about a new restaurant, which we were relieved to find open in August. Its "table du mois","L'Entredgeu" (don't try to translate it; it's a fractured pun in French) was also heralded recently in Le Figaro, and is the baby of a chef formerly employed by Thierry Breton at "Michel" and neighboring "Casimir" and the hostess at Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducase. This duo has opened a very pleasant bistrot in the 17th just steps from the Porte de Champeret metro and bus terminal. I have no doubt that we were their first American guests. "Business" is conducted in French, welcome is warm, service is timely and efficient. There are few surprises on the menu, but everything we ordered was good: Entrees of quail confit on grilled vegetables and salad with shaved parmesan; Plates of Cod with olive semolina and Dorade with piperade; Desserts, mascarpone with raspberries; Cherry sorbet with almond tuilles. With a bottle of quite decent Morgon and coffee, the check was 83 euros. A pleasant evening.

Squeat, I will give you the same advice my husband often gives me when I'm in a kitchen quandry: "Try following the directions on the tin." The tin, this time, being the directions from a legitimate source such as "Chez Panise Cooking". If it makes you feel any better, I frequently use Todd English's recipe for brined porkchops, which calls for leaving double-cut chops in the (sweet) brine for 4 days. Let 'em soak and enjoy!

Esilda's instincts, as usual, are on point. The Basque "cassoulet" in Ainhoa haunts my memory. I need to have it again someday. And your memory serves correct; the eaux de vie shop in Saint Jean Pied de Port is Etienne Brana. FYI, I see that they are closed Saturday afternoons, Sunday and remember that their closure from noon to 2:30 foiled one of our visits. We have enjoyed staying with Freres Ibarboure in Bidart, and whose luxurious rooms (ask for #4) rent for about 1/2 high season in October, and Hotel Arce in Saint Entienne de Baigorry, which boasts a lovely dining room and quite decent kitchen. Unfortunately, the joyous little hotel we used in Usteritz has, I've been told, closed as its older owners have retired. (If you have time, don't short the chocolate shops in Biarritz. I didn't bring home nearly enough. )

Bux, what is your itinerary in Pays Basques? Or would you rather keep it under wraps until you return? Should you go to St. Jean Pied du Port, don't miss the wonderful wine and eau de vie shop. Worth packing a checkable box! Also, do taste the black cherry preserves before you buy. On several visits we brought home what were reportedly the best producers' stuff, only to be disappointed when we opened them.

Bruce, we have gone for 3 years now, and it has consistently been on the weekend that falls midmonth. I would guess that 2004 would be the 15th through 18th. Check their website.

For those heading to Paris in October, it's time to note the dates of the Paris Fermier Show at Champeret. We never miss this show if possible: several hundred artisanal producers show, sell and sample their stuff. Go hungry, bring carrier bags! Fermier Show

The food at Plouf is certainly adequate, and it sings at B44. A big caviat, however: if you want to have any kind of conversation, sit outside. Inside at both lunch and dinner, we could neither hear each other nor the waiter, nor could the waiter hear us.

Robert, thank you for your re-welcome. We probably use the SNCF website to create simpler itineraries than you. It tells me what I need to know without too much effort on my part. That conceded, I do have issues with the all-too-frequent site upgrades. Just when I have mastered one navigation, I have to re-learn how to extract that information. C'est normal.

Having read about problems with ticket reembursement in some travel article, I always write the reservation code for each ticket on several cards and keep those notations separate from the tickets. This measure saved me $100 recently when we took a trip out of Paris and I left our return tickets in the luggage we left at our Paris hotel. By having the reservation code for the return tickets, we were able to keep our reserved seats by rebuying the ticket. On our return to Paris, we submitted BOTH THE ORIGINAL UNUSED TICKET AND THE COMPOSTED REPLACEMENT TICKET at the SNCF office to get an immediate credit to our VISA account. Had we not had the code for our reservation, we would have had to buy a completely new ticket, and hoped that SNCF could, at their convenience, trace our original ticket and make reembursement. Apparently, everything hinges on that reservation code, not your name or credit card number or train number.

We visited Librairie Gourmande week before last, 8/28/03. It is indeed open. Librairie Gourmande 4, rue Dante 75005 Paris Librairie Gourmande Another good librairie gastronomie is located on the east side of either Bac or Beaune, about a block from the Seine. I forget it's name.

We ate at Frechon's eponymous pre-Bristol restaurant some half dozen times when he was first becoming known. At that time, Gault-Millau had given him 17 points. While we had enjoyable evenings at this restaurant, and a few good dishes, we never had what I would consider an excellent meal. Except for the luxury of using expensive ingredients now, I can't imagine that his style and substance would become stellar simply by walking into the kitchen at the Bristol.

I really like Anjou, particularly for lunch. The space is intimate. Ask for the table to the immediate left of the stairs on the mezzanine. It is in a corner and totally undisturbed. The well prepared and beautifully served food is bistro French. There is a $14 lunch special that includes soup or salad and a choice of around 6 main plates. One of my favorites if rare leg of lamb slices draped over excellent lentil salad. With wine, your tab should come in just around $20. at lunch. A plus is that you are never hassled to leave or rush. I have often arrived at noon and left just after 3. Anjou is a chic little sleeper that is steps away from the Stockton 30 and 45, 2, 3 and 4 buses, and a couple of blocks from the Montgomery Bart station. (44 Campton Place: running from Stockton to Grant between Post and Sutter) Anjou

I'm either the best or worst person to reply to your quest since I've been married for several hundred years. That said, I see that you ask where you would find the "best meal". I no longer look for the "best meal", but for the perfect evening, and they may indeed be two different things. I can think of many quite excellent meals that did not add up to particularly great evening, considering the sum of the room, ambience, timing, other diners, details of service in addition to the meal. You really do have to put some thought into this choice. (On the other hand, I can't remember a single meal I had on my honeymoon.)

I just pulled out our notes for several days passing through Paris in August 2002, and find that, although most favorite dining rooms sported boarded fronts, we did find interesting meals at La Dinée in the 15th (mussel tempura with gaspacho; prawns in lemon cream sauce; vanilla mille feuille), L'Etrier in the 18th (shellfish salad, grilled dorade, coconut ice cream with tropical fruit) and an old and very simple friend, Machon d'Henri in the 6th (lentil salad, agneau sept heure, cherries in kirsch). This year, my only concern is whether the current heatwave will make meal planning superfluous, with the best choice being deli salad, chunk of bread and chilled white in front of the AC! Good luck. Repeating previouis advice, Michelin will give you a decent list of August openings.