Margaret Pilgrim

Bouland wrote, "If you read French, then there are many others that I can recommend." I would add that if you are studying French, and since you already have a handle on "how to cook", reading a cookbook in French is a great way to improve both your language and cooking skills at the same time. I have found that it is considerably easier to read a foreign language book in a subject about which you already have knowledge or understanding of terms. Exhibiting enormous hubris, I just returned from France with a copy of "Bras", which of course is worth its price just for the pictures even if I never faithfully complete one of his recipes.

My husband asked the manager of an Applebee's this question, and was told that the term "riblet" is a word made up by Applebee's marketing guys, that there is no commercial cut called a riblet, nor is the cut commercially available under another name and that the cut is actually from the brisket. All I know is that my carriage trade butcher shudders at the concept, and I can't get the Chinese butchers to understand what I'm talking about.

Enchanted by its storefront, we wandered into Legrande Fille & Fils (1, rue de la Banque, 2e, Paris) last week. I was looking for chataigne liqueur and, besides finding it, discovered a distinguished epicerie, spirits and wine shop. The store meanders through the depth of the building and exits into the Gallerie Vivienne. The fancy-food stock is varied and well chosen while the wines include many from small and unusual vintners. Tasting is encouraged. The service was generous, informative and interested in our future as well as immediate needs. This most hospitable shop will be a regular destination for us.

Thanks for the heads-up for Duarte's olalliberry (works for me ) pie. I just skimmed this issue. Berry pie is such a favorite in our house that we usually have it at Thanksgiving dinner in place of pumpkin! And Pane e Vino has been an Italian favorite of ours for ?20? years. Nothing flashy, but always excellent food and service.

While I have never thought of using it in a dining room, my husband always carries a miniature tape recorder which we find invaluable on our walks to and from restaurants. He has spent many too many mornings/afternoons trying to find the wonderful little shop I noticed on one of our evening walks. Now, when one of us finds an interesting shop or library or hotel, he simply "tells his little friend" the address, nearest intersection and name of shop, so that in daylight we can find it without retracing 20 blocks! Used subtly, this would be one interesting solution to the note-taking problem.

I don't get the negative connotation re butter and cream in either the pro or home kitchen (re Culinary Duplicity thread). I use butter and cream whenever I think they will add to the flavor or texture of a dish. I've spent the greater part of my (substantial!) years saying "No" to various foods, and have found that in the long haul, it is quantity and not specific foods that are the culprits. My cooking philosophy is to maximize the essential natural flavor of what I'm cooking, and I agree that overuse of fats can dilute this. But assuming that the cook is staying within this perimeter, I have no problem with dishes rich in butter or cream. We cook everything "fresh" and "from scratch", serve reduction+butter sauces several times a week, and buy heavy cream by the quart with no guilt.

Cabrales, I would hazard a guess that your "Tetsuit" is in fact "Tchin-Tchin" that I mentioned in my original post. It is located on rue Montorgueil in 1e, betweem the church of St. Eustache and rue Etienne Marcel. They are indeed very helpful and always interested in requests for unusual wines as well as delighted to recommend bottles from their stock of non-mainstream vintners. (While I love the French language, I have learned that it is 100 times easier to establish the phonetics of a written word than it is to arrive at the written word from the spoken. I always carry a small card case and pen so that I can have people write down their recommendations or directions. Most of the time I find that I would never have come up with the actual spelling in a million years!)

First, I agree completely with Priscilla, in that I use tofu for its own qualities, rather than ask it to mascarade as what it is not. We usually marinate it and saute it: Combine some red wine, a little soy, some olive oil, minced shallot and garlic (or, if you must, onion and garlic powder), a crumbled bay leaf, fresh basil, herbs de provence or fresh thyme and a kiss of rosemary), a tiny bit of basalmic, cracked black pepper. Cut the tofu into serving sized pieces (for us, 2"x2"x1/2" pieces). Marinate in the sauce for up to several days. Saute in a small amount of olive oil, and accompany with some dressed greens for lunch or a light supper. I ate semi-vegetarian for more than 10 years, but never tried to substitute tofu or its cousins for meat. There are too many fabulous ethnic non-red-meat dishes to do so, and too many ways to use tofu or soy products that don't prostitute its qualities.

Cabralles wrote, "Restaurants evolve, perish, sometimes stagnate, sometimes reinvigorate themselves; sous chefs or sometimes executive chefs move on. Like many things in life, moments at restaurants that one values are to be "captured" as available." Eloquently true, and perhaps an essential tenet of successful travel. Every joyous experience should be treated as if it were a singular one.

Steve P, what and where is the Chez Henri you mention as being within 15 minutes of Balzar? Thanks.

Peaches in red wine are classic: cover peeled peach slices with red wine, sprinkle lightly brown sugar; let sit for an hour before serving. (We sometimes use this as a vegetable in summer.) I love a lot of the interesting concepts already posted in this thread. Many thanks for such creative ideas.

We are straying far from Robert's original "paradox" reference, but I will subscribe to the red wine, green tea, black tea, and sushi restorative powers. At least ONE of these has to account for my superlative chemistry statistics.

Cabrales said, "Margaret -- If you are comfortable discussing it, does your husband sometimes peel grapes for you?" Yes, as a gesture. I appreciate his thought, but not the particularly the product. We settle by his turning a blind eye to my airline ticket purchases.

Robert, we are still having problems verifying your premise. I have no doubt that it may be true. However, on our only visit since the conversion to the euro, we have both been somewhat surprised that we haven't experienced the franc-to-euro creep. There are several instances where we notice that, in fact, we could, if we wanted to, leave less than we usually do for room service, housekeeping and concierge services. However, we feel that moving up to the next logical increment is an inexpensive investment in our equity in a hotel that we both enjoy. We have visited this subject before, and I do have to ask if you think that this inflation is happening particularly at the upper levels of spending since we haven't seen it in our sphere. We have been, in fact, frequently surprised that we are paying so little for simple market purchases. (I will add my peculiar way of converting francs to dollars for the last few years: I would take the figure in francs, add 1/3, move decimal two places left. e.g.: 500 francs plus 150 francs = 650 francs, becomes $6.50. My husband could never figure out my logic, but it worked for me. ;-) )

I frequently lunch with (1 or 2) ladies who may easily order several bottles of wine. I will partake if we are lunching in town, but if I am driving to a suburb, I will order double iced espressos. I have never been served a diluted drink, and in fact have several times left the table, late afternoon, considerably more wired than they!

Cabrales and Helena, green grapes are really a curious thing. You can have life long favorites, and still have to sample these same in order to find a suitable purchase. They are also very subjective: my husband and I will choose completely different grapes. I, personally, prefer jumbo black grapes, seeds or without. And, yes, Cabrales, who is doing the peeling makes all the difference. I will sometimes peel 13 or 14 for my husband; that is my limit. He is spoiled enough as it is. In the meantime, I may just go away with Toby with lots of raspberries and heavy cream. No, just a thought.

Another nice one in that area, Bux, is Ryst-Dupeyron on rue du Bac. I noticed some interesting vertical collections as well as unusual half bottles.

Bux, in defence of your Laguiole knives, I have found that the Laguiole knives were excellent for boning small birds. You know the kind. Larger than an ortilan but smaller than a game hen. In defence of your indecision, I haven't even bought mine yet!

Wimpy, I just read your second post and realize that you are almost on the plane! My best recommendation would be to taste the various brands that present themselves at markets. If you appear to be a serious buyer, they will sample out anything they sell. Buy what you like. I find that there is a tremendous difference in Laguiole quality, vis a vis some of the really awful stuff available here in the US. Again, I would recommend that you shop and test and buy the best quality you are up to. If you are not going to the source, there is a Laguiole shop in Paris on Place d'Opportune just off rue de Halles that carries good quality if not the lowest priced cutlery.

Wimpy, off hand I don't have a list. I seem to remember that Quercy Village, for one, does both tin and glass product. I will keep an eye out and message you a list in a couple of weeks.

For those of us who don't import our wine from the provinces, a user-friendly wine merchant in Paris is invaluable. We have had wonderful attention and service, resulting in excellent bottles, at Le Dernier Gout on rue de l'Abbaye in the 6th, at Tchin-Tchin on rue Montorgueil as well as at a shop on the 60s block of St. Dominique, whose name I forget. All of these shops encourage experimentation, and are delighted to discuss unusual wine areas and bottlings. Do you have favorite shops where you return for familiar and new-to-you wines?

Bux, perhaps I wasn't clear. On our last entry in April, we were told that meat from ruminants is not allowed now in any form, and I have to think this is a new regulation. Commercially canned (TINNED) meat products, other than ruminants, are allowed, and certainly include TINNED cassoulet, confit, and other pork products. However, the glass jar/rubber ringed/snap closure meat preserves, usually put up by artisan producers, regardless of whether they are foul or meat, are not allowed, but might get through if declared properly and luck was with you.

Wow, Jaybee. I'm impressed with your purchase. We pay a minimum of 3.00 and up to $4. a dozen for fresh free-range. And I'm glad to hear your reenforcement of my opinion that they are much more fragile than supermarket eggs: whites more delicate, and yolks break much easier when cooking "easy over". But well worth the pennies difference and the extra care in cooking.

I have never been turned down when I've requested a copy of the menu in France, with the single exception of La Regalade. Others, as mentioned before, usually arrive back at our table signed by the chef. Parenthetically, in the US, I always call ahead and have a copy of the menu faxed to us before visiting a restaurant. I've never tried to get one faxed to a hotel in France. Re photography in a dining room, we have never done it, and find it objectionable when obvious. But as Cabrales noted, and as we taught our son, you can do almost anything in a good dining room as long as you are totally unobtrusive.

What wonderful contributions to this thread! It's either the shopping list from heaven or hell! CABRALES: Will personally message Steve P. for address of Bernard Anthony, and will post if he comes across. GAVIN JONES: Cheese does not freeze well. There are major changes to the texture, most usually causing it to become grainy or to become crumbly. I always travel with zillions of assorted size ziploc bags. Don't even want to get into their universal usefulness. I do want to post again information regarding meat importation. I was under the impression that you could bring in any COMMERCIALLY CANNED MEAT PRODUCTS. This is not so! The last time we entered, I was told that you CAN NOT bring in meat from ruminants IN ANY FORM. This means that I could keep the canned whole foie gras, but would not have been able to keep any beef, veal, lamb, goat or deer product. And of course, you can never bring in as canned meat, such as cassoulet or confit, those cute, traditional glass jar/rubber ring products.