Margaret Pilgrim

admajoretal...I am interested in your reference to Les Fontaines. We haven't been there in probably 10 years. Can you bring us up to date in a thread of its own? Many thanks.

For 30 years I have made gingerbread men (wrapped tightly in Saran and tied with red satin ribbons) at Christmas. We hang them on the tree, and they disappear over the holidays. We also have a basket of wrapped "men" for guests. For the last few years, I have let this tradition slide into the holidays, only to be asked at some point, "Where are the gingerbread men", and having to bake up several batches to assuage the demand! As Saab dictates, you'll have to "Find your own road!"

Because its second incarnation garnered such mixed-to-negative reviews shortly after opening, I was interested and surprised to see that San Francisco Magazine this month gave 231 close to a perfect review. Have any of you visited 231 recently, and have they really pulled themselves up to this level? Me Butter, have you heard anything? Anyone? Many thanks.

By all means, Jeff, if your wife has her heart set on Versailles, take her there. It is a very simple RER ride (from St. Michel or other left bank RER C Line stations) on the C5 (Rive Gauche/Chateau de Versailles terminus) line, zone 4. Versailles is a pleasant little town for an afternoon walk in addition to the many attractions of the Chateau and gardens. I would definitely get information before hand at a tourist office regarding opening hours for both independent and tour opportunities.

I'm very late to this thread. I agree with Bux regarding sharing tastes and the occasional exchange of plates. We have not too infrequently had a waiter appear from nowhere to provide the proper silverware for the "new" plates, eg, a fish knife and fork or a spoon, when the original plate had not called for either. We always have found the attitude of the waitstaff to be one of wanting us to fully enjoy what we ordered, regardless of who ordered which. re Robert Brown's original question, we really don't have a problem with the idyocracies of dining companions since my husband's idea of the perfect table is "2"! He can on occasionally be pushed to stretch that to "4", but not beyond. More than 4 will be entertained at home. We really don't see n any context people who behave badly. It's a sheltered life, but one of the luxuries of age!

Very true, Marcus. However, my reference to the forum referred to eG people's perceived experiences, not the source of our personal misadventures. The places that disappointed us were, in fact, GM coup de cour at the time of our visits, and dining rooms and hotels reviewed and honored by Michelin. My point is that by the time that the consumer reads a M or GM review, close to a year has elapsed. The venue visited is not the same one that the initial reviewer/s experienced. In addition, there is the effect of that very review on the sheer numbers of eager clients and the capabilities of the provider.

I've found it interesting to notice how often in recent threads people's differing expectations result in completely different evaluations of similar dining experiences. Many have visited the restaurants in question on the basis of the same reviews, which have obviously conjured up totally different images of what that dining experience would be, hence wildly enthusiastic praise from one poster and withering disparagement from another. The problem is that both reports are true and valid in terms of the reality of the individual writer. Personally, we have experienced real disappointment at some universally loved restaurants, and haved probably caused our own problems by expecting too much on subsequent visits after experiencing a near perfect first visit at others. At the same time, we frequently find treasure in food and service when we least expected it. It has become rather obvious that someone who dines mostly in very expensive restaurants may well overestimate the value of a moderately but not extraordinarily well executed inexpensive meal, and that someone with no experience in haute cuisine may be overly impressed with an ambitious and inventive plate that lacks perfect execution. How do we read so as to perceive with more acuity what our individual experience will be in a given restaurant? How can we more accurately compare someone else's experiences and therefore expectations to our own? Saab says it best in its commercials: "Find your own road." But it's not easy.

I used to think it was all about the food. Of late I have come to feel that it is the overall impression of the evening that you will remember longer. Of course, there are always those startlingly good plates that come to mind, but they are so much better when they are part-and-parcel of a cossetting meal in an honest dining room.

Just last month I enjoyed (twice) an appetizer of escargot ravioli in a reduced cream sauce, very sheer pasta, in which the escargot were chopped fine and very lightly seasoned. Maybe could we put a hint of safron in the cream sauce for the mussels?

Were I in your shoes, I would head to either "Tchin Tchin" or "La Derniere Goutte", both tremendously user-friendly wine shops where the affable merchants speak perfect English. Either of these shops should be able to point you toward such a class if it is available. Tchin Tchin 9, rue Montorgueil 75001 La Derniere Goutte 6, rue de Bourbon Le Chateau 75006 More formal, but very helpful: Legrand 1, rue de la Banque 75003

This is a tough one. I know, as I wrestled with it last year when I flirted with a Christmas visit to Paris. As you have probaby figured out, most restaurants that come to mind are closed on Christmas Day, many for the entire week. In the price range of your Au Pied de Cochon is the pretty Grand Colbert. It is not a restaurant that I would normally choose, but it is a lovely room, a classic brasserie fom the 19th Century that has been nicely restored. I did contact them last year and received a very cordial reply, saying that they would indeed be open and would welcome us to a fine Christmas dinner. One review Grand Colbert 2 rue Vivienne 2nd arrondisement 01.42.86.87.88 le.grand.colbert@wanadoo.fr

I agree with most of you that requesting a copy of a menu is situational. Most nights I try to subtly jot down a few notes at table or immediately upon returning to our hotel. At Au Gourmand, the service had been so adorable and personal that I felt comfortable asking if they had "an old, maybe torn" copy of the insert that I could have. The maitre d' (co-owner) shrank in mock horror, and pronounced that, "No! But I have a brand new one for you." He brought us the entire formal stiff-board menu, but I accepted only the insert. Although I ask for a menu less and less frequently nowdays, I have never, with the exception of an early visit to Le Regalade, been turned down. Most places have seemed quite pleased to oblige, many going so far as to bring an autographed one.

Eddang, I have an off-the-wall suggestion for you. If you are looking for a chic dining room with attentive service and lovingly prepared and plated food, I would suggest that you contact Au Gourmand (my October 30 post) and tell them exactly what you have told us: that it will be in important birthday for you, that you had hoped to get into L'Astrance, that you are looking for a memorable evening. Ask they if they would be willing to serve you a tasting menu made up from their regular menu, ie, small servings of double the number of courses. Their menu would work well for this, and the maitre d'/co-owner is adorable and caring. When we were there the second time, there was a table of 4 at the back of the dining room who were enjoying a long and attentively served meal, possibly what I am describing. You could probably negotiate the price per person. Since their menu is 33 euro for three courses, you should be able to stay well within your target price range. Also, and not to be underestimated in the quality of your evening, at this time they are not trying to turn the tables, so you won't be rushed through what you had hoped to be a celebratory evening. Again, I would just be honest in describing what you would like to enjoy, and see if they seem enthusiastic to provide it for you. By all means use my name if you wish. They may remember us.

Oh yes, Au Petit Tonneau is a tiny, nieghborhood treasure. It is, in my mind, the classic moma and pop operation, no decor, the diners all seemingly regulars, the food honest, well conceived and prepared, and certainly generous, as is the service. Madame Boyer serves up the only Andouillette that I can describe as "delicious". (She came to our table after dinner during her round of chatting up guests, looked at my empty plate, showed relief and confessed that she always worried when non-French ordered andouilette.)

Dodin, I just pulled up the RATP itinerary site , plugged in St. Lazare and Le Perreux, and the departure time of 20h, and got the above information on a pop-up, including a super map that shows the station opening onto Blvd. de la Liberte, which deadends at Les Magnolias front door on Avenue Bry. The site told me that there is a 3 minute walk from Gare St. Lazare to the RER station, a 25 minute trainride, a 1 minute walk through the Le Perreux RER station, for a total travel time of 29 minutes! These Frenchmen are amazing! I didn't stay around long enough to ask them when the last train is. As I remember, it is around 12:45am, but this is old and sketchy information.

Dodin, I have posted this before, but it always seems to be new to someone. If you go to Les Magnolias by train, make sure you take the E RER train to Le Perroux, not the A RER train to Nogent. The E train will take you within several long blocks of Les Magnolias; the A train's stop in Nogent is a mile+ away. Enjoy.

You will be well served by any of the members of Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais. Please note that Daniel et Denise that I wrote about IS a member of this association, although not listed on their site, but that Le Saint Joseph is not. LSJ is appropriately several cuts below those in the association.

October 15 (2003) Figaroscope reviewed this dining room which opened the first week in September, giving it 3 hearts and much praise. We visited it the following Thursday, and again last Monday. This chic little (30 seat) room, located on Luxembourg Garden, is the love-child of an accountant who always wanted to cook professionally and the maitre d' who was a journalist. Somehow, they are making it work. The menu is based on several tenets. There is a new menu every month. Four appetizers are available every day. There are only two plate choices each day, one meat or fowl and one fish. The meats are from artisan boucher Hugo Desnoyer, and all have AOC attributions. There is a different special in each category each day. The menu-carte is 33 euro for three courses. A cheese course if available either instead of dessert or at a supplement. There is a full wine list, and also a single page of proposals that are very inexpensive and well chosen. The plates on our visits were stunning and delicious: Cappucino de potimarron et sorbet moutarde, des de gorgonzola Carpacco de veau de Correze a la tapenade et a l'huile d'amandes douces a special of sauteed langostine coated with pistachios another of bar tartare, pretty, but more mundane Dos de canard du Perigord a l'orange, panais rotis au miel de bruyere et au gingembre Lieu noir, legumes sautes a l'huile de cacaheuetes Epaule d'agneau de Lozere, cocotte de legumes au lard fermier a special of goulash of biche Creme brulee au the vert Matcha, raisins poeles "Tout chocolat", perhaps the best chocolate plate I have ever had Tarte fine aux figues et a la poire, glace a la cardamome Wonderful house made petit-pain was served with a large pot of sweet butter. The very hospitable maitre d' was assisted by two charming young women. Everyone had a grip on his job, ergo service was seamless. There is very soft jazz or semi-classical in the background, and conversation is easy. The style and aspiration of the food and dining room reminded us of L'Astrance when we first visited it and before prices and bookings mushroomed. We hope very much that this little jewel can keep its focus and current performance level. I'll be anxious to see how it winters and what it is like in the spring. My advice would be go soon and often and pray for a miracle. This place is a steal! Au Gourmand 22, rue de Vaugirard 06 01.43.26.26.45 There will be a website at www.augourmand.fr but it is still under construction.

We were to spend four nights in Lyon, and it was my intent to do a bouchon crawl and consume as much variety meats as I could, since I can't find that kind of food at home. Unfortunately, we arrived in Lyon from Paris quite sated, and it seemed better sense to try to eat lighter fare on our first night. We picked Restaurant Thomas, a Gault-Millau "coup du cour" although a very average "13". It is a tiny restaurant a few blocks southeast of Bellecour with a young chef, minimum staff and a dining room full of enthusiastic neighborhood diners. The food is nouveau bistro, the plates are quite lovely, the flavors and textures on point, and the service stretched to the very limits. Our orders pretty well describe the kind of food offered: pastilla of pintade, rouget entire with tapinade, celery soup with chestnut froth and foie gras die, braised lamb with curried fruit, cervelle de canuts. With aperitifs, wine and coffee, our check was an amazing 93 euros. No wonder the place was packed. They did not try for a second service. Restaurant Thomas The next night it was pouring rain and also Sunday, so my list of target restaurants was shortened to what was both within easy dash and open. Although we usually avoid tourist neighborhoods like the plague, we decided that Merciere was our best bet, and after reading numerous menus (in the comfort of awnings and terrace heaters) used the tried-and-true method of restaurant selection: the one that was most packed. This was the smallest buchon on the block, Le Saint Joseph. We were still looking for small plates, and were well served here with excellent but reasonably sized portions of Salad Lyonaise, andouillette in excellent mustard/white wine/cream sauce, Hot sausage and lentils, sirloin with Stl Marcelin, Agen prunes in spiced wed wine and again, cervelles de canuts. The only slip in the meal was the cervelles which was too salty. I can't find the case receipt, but with wine and coffee, I would estimate the tab at under 75 euros. In spite of this heavy food, we weren't stuffed. We booked at Daniel et Denise across the river on Monday. This is one of the Bouchon Association members, but the plates exhibited a slight nod to a more elevated cuisine. A plate of marinated red peppers was subtly dressed, and topped with a perfect poached egg. My husbands moules were the size I prefer: small medium, small enough to be delicate but large enough to be worthwhile messing with. He was served 84 as an appetizer; this is Lyon. I ordered gras double as plate, and was brought a serving for two at least. When I made a rather decent dent on it, the waiter nodded and confirmed, "Tres bien!" I should note that my husband does not share either my curiosity about variety meats nor my enjoyment. He ordered quenelle brochet, another Lyon classic. The quenelle was, I thought, quite boring, but the Nanua sauce was full of large chunks of lobster, and he loved it. With aperitifs, a bottle of water and of Brouilly, coffee, the bill was 79 euros. I love this place. We spent several hours of our last day reading menus on rues de Neuve and Major Matin, but decided that we were just as well off at our tried-and-true Le Saint Joseph, where quality was adequate and servings were more what we could handle. While I found several of the well-known bouchons tempting, my husband wanted neither offal nor steak, so his choices were limited. We repeated the salad Lyonnaise, I repeated the Andouillette, my husband switched to St. Jacques with fresh pasta. We both chose floating island. We will make a point of stopping in Lyon again to sample more of its bouchons, but will definitely target the very endearing Daniel et Denise. I should add that in our four evenings in Lyon, we heard no English spoken at any of these restaurants. Restaurant Thomas 6, rue Laurencin Lyon 02 04.72.56.04.76 Le Saint Joseph 46, rue Merciere Lyon 02 04.78.37.37.25 Daniel et Denise 156, rue Crequi Lyon 03 04.78.60.66.53

Marcus, can you give us a short list of some of the restaurants you have experienced (in Paris to make it simple) with which you compare La Regalade?

There is an interesting article in October (03) Saveurs featuring Catherine Guerraz and her eponymous restaurant. I was not aware that she had moved from her rue Provence location. Has anyone visited her year+ old new location: 3 rue Berryer? (Gault Millau 03 gives her a rating of 14 and a coup de coeur.) Chez Catherine 3, rue Berryer 8e 01.44.76.01.40

I am happy to read that you enjoyed this excellent dining room as much as we have. Some critics compare the imagination of the cuisine to Gagnaire. I would add that diners should allow enough time for a proper dinner here, perhaps 3 1/2 hours for a civilized dinner. We loved every course and the lovely service. A truc re getting there: if you don't take a cab, take the E RER from the Havre/Caumartin station to Nogent/Le Perreux station, not the A line as most food magazines would suggest.

Of similar interest, and not to be missed by those crawling around Pays Basques, are the enormous trading posts just yards over the border in Spain. The one in Dancharia, some 10km southwest of Espelette, was recommended to us by a local wine merchant as well as the owner of our hotel. These giant emporiums sell everything from whole porc noir hams, cheeses, Spanish wines and liquours, nougat and safron, canned, packaged and dry goods, paella pans (from 8" to a meter wide) and the accompanying gas rings (which my husband wanted with all his soul, but couldn't think of a need for), clay cookware and table ware, and of course, tobacco. The aisles are full of French housewives buying "tax free" in Spain. Our Paris hotelman told us of the one his father uses, due south of St. Jean de Luz, up a winding mountain road at Col de Lizarrieta. These "ventas" (pronounced bentas), the descendants of the "comptoirs de contrabande" or smugglers, are now completely tame and legal, but still a lot of fun.

They still think that, Bux. They just think you like older ladies!

Menton, I'd love to hear more about your access to international cheap rates, either by thread or pm. Just to muddy the water, I have called the SNCF 08 number I posted numerous times from the US, most recently last week. They go through with no problem, however they do cost from here.