Dave the Cook

Thanks for posting the food-processor technique in RecipeGullet, Chris. A few days ago, I rendered fat from duck skin (about two and a half ducks' worth, I think). When I strained it into a new pot, I thought I had about two quarts of fat and I put it in the refrigerator to firm up. Yesterday, I decided that I had enough to share. I pulled the pot out and proceeded to divide the fat into two containers. About three scoops in, I noticed that the fat wasn't as pure white as I'd expected; there were pink streaks in it. I looked at the contents of the pot more closely and realized that there were two levels of stuff: a thick layer of fat, and lower stratum of very firm duck jello. After separating it out, I ended up with five cups of fat and three of highly gelatinous duck stock -- an unexpected dividend.

This is the same stuff that's used to make Epicurean cutting boards, as well as the handles for Shun (and some other) knives. I've used these boards while teaching; while I prefer wood, the impregnated paper has a number of advantages. It's tough, colorable within a limited range, and dishwasher-safe. I think it's a good choice for countertops.

This one might be tough -- veal shanks are few and far between around here. While the back of my mind works on that problem, I can add to the references and issues. In the excellent All About Braising, Molly Stevens writes ". . . osso bucco Milanese is probably the dish that inspired me to write an entire book on braising in the first place." Despite such praise, she can't resist fiddling with the recipe, including a bulb of fennel and a small pile of orange zest in the aromatics. She double-doses the gremolata (traditional parsley, garlic and lemon), adding half and returning the braise to the oven for a final 15 minutes. Finally, in the helpful sidebar "Shopping for Veal Shanks," she says that fore- or hind-shanks are acceptable, claiming that the former are more flavorful, if less meaty. Mario Batali weighs in with a version he served at Po and wrote up in Simple Italian Food. It's a robust, straightforward take, including a sub-recipe for a garlic-and-thyme-heavy tomato sauce and lots of unreduced wine (Stevens starts with a cup and reduces it by half; Mario says two cups, as is). He deviates on the gremolata, using pine nuts, parsley and lemon zest. Just to get the temperature debate going, Stevens says 300 F, warning that you might have to turn it down. Batali uses 375 F. I'm off to do some sourcing.

This is a wonderful way to start the year! And how terrific that such a respected publication understands what members and volunteers have built here: the best -- perhaps the only serious -- resource for advanced amateur cooks in any medium. Props to Saveur, and congratulations to all who contribute to eG Forums and the Society.

I've cooked with quite a few Society members -- professional and amateur -- and with few exceptions, most of them are capable of cooking at star-level restaurants, with a modicum of practice. What most of them don't have is the ability to hear four or five orders shouted through the din of a restaurant kitchen, then sequence and plate them perfectly -- and listen for the expediter to call an audible, which means diligent resequencing, replating, remaking. They also can't stay on their feet eight hours a day, six days a week and still maintain respect for the chef, the clientele and the process.

would have to agree with this statement, in any science class I took, and took many thru college/grad school... never do you measure by looking down into a vessel... always at eye level from the side . . . . ← The lab analogy doesn't really hold up. First, it applies to narrow tubes like graduated cylinders, where the meniscus can represent a significant percentage of the volume, and thus a source of error. Beakers and flasks can't be read from the top, and aren't usually used for precise measurements. Second, I don't know of any labware that's designed to be read from the top as the Oxo cups are.

I -- and probably more cogent, Robert Hess, in his new book The Essential Bartender's Guide -- recommend Oxo Mini Angled Measuring Cups. A three-pack is ten bucks. (I think the stainless steel version is cooler, but it's almost twice the price.)

How's their bitters selection?

Tower (Piedmont) has Whitley-Neill in stock.

This place hit my inbox a little while back: Shared Kitchens. I don't know if it opened on time, or even what the space looks like.

I'd go prostrate myself at WD-50. Surely they can spare a dram of Activa for a poor waif on Christmas Eve.

Ooh! Ooh! I know! Look here.

I like Michael Pollan and I agree with much of what he says. But I have no sense that he's capable -- let alone interested -- in running a major division of the executive branch. Most writers I know are fully occupied (if not overwhelmed) with managing their own schedules; the last thing we, or American agriculture, needs is someone like me running that show. It requires not just vision but managerial and political expertise. I'd venture to say that most writers hanging around eG Forums would agree -- about my general premise, as well as me in particular.

Biyaldi -- or as Mark Bittman calls, it Layered Vegetable Torte?

Money's been tight this year, so not a lot of new books -- which is not to say "none at all." Under Pressure Alinea Asian Dining Rules The Essential Bartender's Guide Think Like a Chef There are a few on my Christmas list; I'll update later.

An honest appraisal of the Bradley would admit that in warmer climes -- Atlanta, for example -- cold-smoking with an out-of-the-box unit is iffy from late March to early October. The ambient temperature plus the heat from the bisquette unit will push you past 100 F. You can put it under a shade or keep it in the garage, but that only helps so much. In the colder months, you're good to go, though.

I admire your positive agenda, Peter. But I'd add: I will not _________ As in, "I will not assume that the UPC labels on fresh fruit are food safe."

I've had good results doing just this. ← So how long is it good in the fridge and how long in the freezer? ← As far as I can tell, forever, regardless of storage as long as it's cold.

Right -- I was trying to make a joke. It reminded me of those expensive bottles of simple syrup I see in liquor stores. As for browned flour, it's even easier on a sheet pan in the oven. Just rake it every once in a while. And no, it's not the same as an honest roux made with fat, but it has its uses.

Seems like "roux powder" would be . . . flour.

Messermeister generally makes a better knife, but it looks like Wusthoff is closing out their Cordon Blue line. An eight-inch chef's knife from that line, while not the pinnacle of the trade, would be a good choice for someone who, as paulraphael says, "bang(s) the knives around" -- and who might not have the access or the will to hunt down someone who can do sharpening justice to Japanese angles.

I can't speak for Janet, but the problem I have with hanging racks is that they're not very stable. You go to grab a pan (or hang one) and the whole thing swings back and forth, seeming to threaten the integrity of the ceiling. That's one thing when you own the place; something else when you've installed it illegally.

I was going to say that baskets, either woven or metal mesh, make great organizers, because they come in a bunch of different sizes. So I hurried out to the kitchen to take a photo of mine, and ran smack into a self-induced intervention: Looks like I'm a candidate for a Hennes twelve-step program. An outdoor storage bin (or bins) is a good idea, assuming what you want to put in there (most of that copper? Some of the less-used bowls?) 1) will withstand the weather; 2) will fit. I have two Rubbermaid cabinets outside, where I keep my deep-fryer, some LeCreuset, the one Staub piece in my possession, a sausage stuffer, a huge stockpot, etc. Everything seems happy. Metro shelving is also a good option, but if you're not happy with the industrial look, maybe a baker's rack in this position? For example, something like this could be adapted with hooks so that you could hang your copper for display. Those mini-cocottes could go on the top shelf, as well as some of that glassware on your bookshelf. I should warn you, though, that someone once suggested (George Carlin, maybe?) that stuff accumulates to fill the space allotted it. Exhibit 1: Exhibit 2: Finally, I'm interested how people decide what stays out on the counter. Janet, you've got a KA mixer, a blender and a food processor out in the open, but not your toaster or your deep fryer. Anna puts her coffeemaker away every morning. My coffeemaker and toaster have permanent claims to counter space, but blender, food processor and mixer get stowed. I often wonder (with no results) if my food processor lived on the counter, would I use it more? There are plenty of times when I knife my way through a task just because I don't want to dig into the cabinet, which is all of two feet away.

I agree that the flavor of Angostura is irreplaceable in an Old Fashioned -- so much so that using something else probably requires a name change. But the Whiskey Barrel Bitters do have their uses. One of my favorites is Dave Wondrich's Improved Whiskey Cocktail: 2 oz. Bulleit bourbon 2 dashes Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel bitters 1 tsp. simple syrup 1/2 tsp. Luxardo Maraschino 1 dash Pernod absinthe lemon twist -- except that I make it with Rittenhouse BIB or Wild Turkey Rye. It can be on the sweet side, but that's easily controlled. I'm also wondering how the WBB might do as an alternative in Robert Hess's Voyager: 2 ounces rum 1/2 ounce lime juice 1/2 ounce Benedictine 1/2 ounce falernum 2 dashes Angostura bitters

You'd also be okay at MiLa and Upperline, both of which are great restaurants. eta: also Brigsten's and NOLA.