Dave the Cook

Not that I have a dog in the religious race -- but I thought that lox was cured only, and not smoked.

Just to emphasize this point, here's a 60 mm ribeye cut from a Costco roast, cooked per the Ducasse/Shaw method:

I've settled on two pounds of protein per quart of finished stock, which, as I read it, is the same ratio as Pro Chef 8. (I don't use mirepoix.) What's nice about this ratio is that you don't have to worry about exactly how much water you put in the pot. Just cover the contents, and when they're fully extracted, reduce the strained stock to the point where you've got the right volumetric result: six pounds of bones = three quarts of stock; nine = four-and-a-half. Taken to the extreme (that would be me), two pounds of bones is reduced to four ounces and frozen in one-ounce portions, each of which can be reconstituted into one cup of stock.

Something else: leverage your dining opportunities to obtain what you need. Recently, we ended a long day of driving (Eugene, OR to San Francisco) with dinner at Beretta. As Erik notes in his post, the place has a great bar, and we indulged in a pre-dinner cocktail. But afterwards, we just -- as Mr. Wondrich suggests -- wanted to take our pants off and stretch out. So we asked the waitress if she would be so kind as to pack up a couple of lemons and limes for us. A few minutes later, she returned with one of their signature pizza boxes. Inside: three each yellow and green. No charge.

A couple of years ago, I was stuck at a no-frills (as in no restaurant, no bar) motel in Tampa. Therefore, no filchable lemons. Luckily, such places tend to be located near strip malls, and I found what I needed at the local grocery: Just remember to hold your finger directly on the hole; that metal flap thing doesn't seal very well. I'm pretty sure I've gotten corkscrews through airport security, and most of them these days have a knifette that could manage a twist, as long as it hasn't been dulled by cutting through wine-bottle foil. Of course, if you can't manage a trip without a horse's neck, this Microplane gadget fits in a toilet kit. If TSA asks about it, tell them you use it on your foot calluses.

Nice write-up by David Rosengarten in the Wine Enthusiast: My question is: which is the higher rank, "eGullet King" or "super-foodie"?

Lamb shoulder -- especially cut into 1-1/2-inch slices -- also braises beautifully. Brown them and remove; saute some onion and garlic in the rendered fat, then do a pincage (a tablespoon of tomato paste, browned in the pan) and deglaze with wine. Add some herbs for flavor (rosemary is usual, but almost anything works) and stock to bring the liquid level up, and put the chops back in the pan. Cover and braise at a simmer (or put in a 275 F oven) for 45 minutes to an hour -- until you can poke a fork in a chop and remove it without resistance. If you've got two layers of chops, flip them at 25 minutes or so. When done, take the chops out, degrease the liquid, then reduce until slightly thickened. Taste the sauce for balance: you might need to add a bit of vinegar or brown sugar. Put the chops back in to rewarm. Noodles or rice work well as foils.

Be aware: unless things have changed, Zig Zag keeps true saloon hours. You can't show up at 3 in the afternoon expecting to get a cocktail. If I recall correctly, they don't open until 5 pm or so -- the reason I've not yet been able to quaff a drink there.

We had one amazing dish at Bayona in 2007 -- I'll have to find my notes to delineate the details. As for Upperline, it's still among my favorites -- Ken Smith is unparalleled. Unfortunately, I'm usually in New Orleans in July for Tales of the Cocktail, and the place is closed then.

I'm not sure I'd put MiLa over August (the last time I was at August, the food was great, but service was iffy ), but I'd easily rank it over Brigsten's and Bayona (admittedly, I was at those in 2007, not 2008). On the other hand, I think Brett is solid and sincere. Next time I'm in new Orleans, I'll make sure to hit Delmonico and Stella.

I've witnessed this, several times. The effect is undeniable.

Saturday's New York Times features an op-ed column by Steven Shaw (aka Fat Guy), titled "Pork Fried Abuse," on the take-out lawsuit situation: He concludes:

There are lots of clay pots that can be used on the stove, with direct flame. I have dozens and dozens. I'm pretty sure those Asian sand pots are fine. Almost all the Mexican pots are good and many from Europe. ← Emile Henry has an entire line of ceramic stovetop-safe cookware. Having said that, paulraphael is right: you don't need every piece of LeCreuset that's made. In particular, I'd pass on the enameled cast-iron wok.

Check here for an exciting announcement regarding "I Melt With You."

Check here for an exciting (though tardy) announcement regarding "The Frying of Latke 49."

Check here for an exciting (though tardy) announcement regarding "The Greatest Restaurant on Earth."

For the second year in a row, a piece from the Daily Gullet has been selected for the anthology Best Food Writing. Ivy Knight's (ivy) The Greatest Restaurant on Earth and The Frying of Latke 49 by Steven Shaw (Fat Guy) appeared in Best Food Writing 2007. For Best Food Writing 2008, the editors selected Janet Zimmerman's (JAZ) I Melt with You. Considering the media competition out there these days, not to mention the talent pool that Best Food Writing draws on (run through the list of other contributors to Best Food Writing: Colman Andrews, Jeffrey Steingarten, Calvin Trillin, Ruth Reichl, Bill Buford . . . well, you get the idea), the Daily Gullet, publishing 25 articles a year, is represented with impressive disproportion. Many thanks to former Daily Gullet editorial director Margaret McArthur (maggiethecat). Please join us in congratulating Ivy, Steven and Janet with a PM.

For a 750 ml bottle? Holy crap. I can get it at several places in Atlanta for $21.

One casualty of the server switch has been RecipeGullet. We're working to resolve the situation as soon as possible, but it might be several days before we figure it out. Thanks for your patience.

I'm sure it's safe to eat. I'm not convinced it's at its peak flavor- or texture-wise.

I wouldn't worry about safety. But what kind of roast is it? Done (in the culinary, rather than the safety, sense) for a loin isn't the same as done for a shoulder.

You could start here.

You'll be providing a recipe, of course.

Hmm. Are and all the same thing?

It was a while back, but my recollection is: 1-1/2 cognac (Landy) 1/2 maraschino (Luxardo) 1/2 lemon juice The lavender appeared as tiny shards of dried flower petals sprinkled on the surface of the poured cocktail. Maybe 1/8 tsp: enough to add a tiny floral note without taking over the drink. That's my recollection. At the time though, they were doing a lot of stuff with lavender, so maybe it was a syrup. I'll check and report back.