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"Amuse Bouche" is a distraction that we choose not to serve to our customers. It is something that has become more common or even anticipated but this is a relatively recent addition. For many years it was offered more as a "palette cleanser" such as a unusual sorbet served between courses but has become a contrived special treat offered by so called celebrity chef's or wannabes. I'm one of the types of Restaurant operators who never offer "Discounts" or accept any "Coupons" or 2 for 1 deals as I prefer to adjust my prices based upon market conditions and provide all my customers with a honest value, not giving more to those who purchased a coupon book or a discount. I also am contrary to the point when there are so called big promotions dreamed up by Newspaper Advertising Promotion's or Whatever that during those periods we will offer a comparable priced "Set Menu" with excellent values as a "Thank You" for your patronage that we don't advertise, but it sure keeps us full by word of mouth. As far as "Celebrity Diners" we have enjoyed patronage thru the years of many very well known persons who have become friends and enjoy our Restaurants because they feel welcomed discreetly and appreciate their privacy and remember their preferences just like other repeat customers. It certainly has caused many interesting situations such as "Secret Service Agent's" stopping a well known Cabinet Officer from saying hello to a Foreign Royalty whom he had just entertained at "Blair House" in Washington DC 2 day's previously. Or a Famous Actress stopping a peoples tables telling them that they have to try a certain dish her favorite or introducing a Actor famous for playing a Quarterback in Movies to the Quarterback whose team just won the Super Bowl, both being excited about the meeting in our Restaurant followed up by introducing them both to a another customer who also was a famous Quarterback with 3 Super Bowl Rings retired. Yes all were regular customers when visiting Honolulu. Irwin

This is something that many Restaurant's must learn how to deal with as it is becoming something that is becoming more common, but will have a effect on the economics considering rent, turnover and dollar volume per cover. I had several operations is high rent areas, with limited seating where customer turnover was very important. This was mostly in specialty type operations, not coffee shop, separate check or fast food locations. Where you depend on reservations to block out your seating your sales are dependent on anticipated average gross per seat. This must be taken into your overhead, wages, linens, glassware, and all other operational expenses. It does costs Restaurants more money when 2 guests eat for the price of only 1 that can't be recovered, plus it also effects employees gratuities based upon sales per person that the IRS doesn't consider. Having just several tables sharing meals can sometimes make the difference between profit and loss. especially in smaller capacity places. What I did in several locations in Honolulu and Northern California was clearly in legible sized type on our menus was to stated: Our policy is that every customers must order a Entrée. Appetizers are served "Family Style" and it's expected that they be ordered after your Entrées to compliment your meals. There is a minimum Food charge of 16.95 per person. The minimum food charge was based on the lowest price entrée on the menu's. We also mentioned on the Menus that we will prepare smaller portions of certain entrées for Children or Seniors and they may share a adults Entrée with no minimum charges applied. This may have caused several customers to decide not to stay for Dinner, but in almost every case that table was occupied by walk In's or Regular customers who were always welcomed with or without reservations as we never overbooked our seatings. For your information this policy made these operations thrive and turned break even business into profitable long established Restaurants it's not applicable everywhere but it proves that being willing to weigh the pro's and con's is better then trying to please everyone when it's not feasible. Irwin

In all the Restaurants that I owned , operated, consulted, or had anything to do with the one thing that made a customer in our eyes into a "VIP" was the simple fact that they cared enough about our place to simply "RETURN". There are no patrons to any Restaurant more important then those who become regular customers. They appreciate the fact that you acknowledge then by staff remembering little things like where they like to sit, cocktails, wines, especially there names, etc. This must always be done discreetly as sometimes being to attentive depending on circumstances must be judged by experience. observation and timing. In the long run it's these customers who become loyal, keep you full regularly and most important send you many customers. It never hurts to treat someone who is some type of celebrity or seems to require some attention well, after all our job is to get them to return. One of the most difficult things to teach employees was that when a friend or acquaintance happened to be eating in "OUR" Restaurant that it was not appropriate to "COMPT" them Anything or even BUY a drink or a desert. Our rationale, proved again and again was that if you did this it often discouraged them from becoming regulars or returning again. I choose to suggest to employees that if these "Friends" were important to them that it would be all right to invite them for a special occasion as "OUR" guests for a meal. This was rarely taken advantage of, but the thought was there. It seems that at many of our operations it seemed like we became "Night Off" favorites to many Hotel, Restaurant employees who regularly recommended customers who asked for suggestions while patronizing their places. Our. "VIP" treatment was regularly expressed by providing some things such as a house "Green Salad", Wine, or after Dinner Drinks or Deserts for special treats or celebrations. Another little thing we tried to do circumspectly was unless our regular customers advised that they were the "HOST" and were picking up the tab, would be to make sure that the visitors received the Check. We were surprised how much this was welcomed. Many of these places are still going strong over 40 years later. Irwin

To the best of my knowledge the most popular renditions of "Beef and Tomato" traditionally served by "Toysan" Chinese Cooks in the USA comes from NYC and Honolulu. The NYC version goes back to the early 1900's and is still served at many Restaurants. known as "Pepper Steak". Made up of a combination of "Sliced Beef Flank, Hanging Tender or Skirt Steak sliced diagonally. Sliced Green Peppers, 1/4 wedges ripe tomato's, Sliced Onions, Garlic, Ginger, Broth [Chicken necks & backs + Pork Bones], Baking Soda, Corn Starch, White Pepper with optional handful of Bean Sprouts, sometimes Ketchup, Soy Sauce, Oyster Sauce, Brown or Cane Sugar, Sherry, Rice Wine. Oil or Lard, Spring Onions, Leaf Parsley. If anyone requires a recipe I will be glad to post one for this as well as the Honolulu version that follows. The options reflect that this dish with variations eventually became a standard dish served at local Chinese Style Restaurants everywhere in the USA and Canada. In Honolulu and all the Islands almost every Restaurant be in Okinawan, Hawaiian, Chinese and often local style American serves this dish, generally over Rice. The standard ingredients: "Sliced Beef Flank", Quartered Wedges of Tomato's, Sliced Onions, Garlic, Ginger, Corn Starch, Baking Soda, Soy Sauce, Broth, White Pepper, Ketchup, Chili Water, Oyster Sauce, Oil or Lard, Spring Onions. Another adaption served in Honolulu and the Philippines is called "Manado" very similar except the Meat is diced in chunks, and Potatoes are added it's served slowly finished by braising over Rice. The longer cooking makes the Gravy very tasty. I do remember it being served in a similar fashion in Hong Kong as "Hawaiian Beef Tomato" the only Beef, Tomato dish that seemed popular was a variation of Beef, Tomato in Scrambled Eggs with Spring Onions over Rice featured as a Plate Lunch popular everywhere in Hong Kong I hope this stirs more tastes into everyones pot. Irwin

I'm curious if many Toysan eGulleter's are aware of something relating to the various Towns and Communities most located along the Pearl River Delta located a short distance from Hong Kong and Canton spoke variations of Cantonese that were easily identified by many Hong Kong Chinese. I remember going shopping with friends who easily identified where the various sales people had emigrated from by their dialects and once it was established that you knew something about the area it seemed that you suddenly were treated as family This was a topic that I discussed last week with my two associates who started with me in Hong Kong, one is a third generation Hong Kong born from a Toysan Family who roots in the Restaurant/Food business go back many generations, the other was originally from Shanghai who moved to Hong Kong in 1960 at 9 years old. They both reiterated that the majority of Restaurants both European and Chinese in Hong Kong were staffed mostly by people who generally came from Towns where they mostly apprenticed with people or family, friends etc from the same area. Even when you shopped at Markets or Stall's for almost anything it seemed that many people preferred to shop in places where the felt more comfortable with people who were familiar with their origins. In many different types of business it wasn't unusual the find several teenagers learning the trade who the business provided room and board with a minimal wage whose family had sent them to learn about the business for several years. This was true even with Seamen, Factory Workers even Teachers where the origins were important to most communities. Apparently this became less and less common during the late 1970's and 1980's since more people were then 2nd generation Hong Kong residents, who often were better educated and urban with less contact with the Towns and spoke Hong Kong Cantonese. Irwin

In "Seattle" we are fortunate that many Russian and Ukrainian Delis carry many of "Bobak" Products. My favorite Bacon for almost every type of Bacon related dish is Bobaks Double Smoked [completely cooked] Hunters Bacon. I buy it by the Slab and cut it to order. This Bacon makes the best BLT Sandwiches when cooked after slicing in the Oven at 325 degrees. The Double Smoked Flavor also goes well with Lentils, Beans or Mushrooms when diced and sautéed for Soups. Several years ago I toured their Smokehouse and Curing Rooms and was very impressed. They also make a Small Very Lean Cut of Double Smoked Pork Butt that I prefer using in place of Smoked or Boiled Ham for Sandwiches or even with Eggs. It's naturally juicy, fully cooked sweet smoked flavor without any added water. I really don't mind paying double or more then retail prices in Chicago for availability in Seattle. When I visit Chicago I sometimes send my Baggage Home by UPS and bring home 60 plus pounds of Bobaks goodies as my Baggage on the plane to Seattle saving me almost the price of my tickets. It's packed very nicely by Bobak and discounted 10% from Chicago retail prices. Even there retail ad that used to be part of their internet site with it's reasonable, even low prices compared to anywhere on the West Coast has made me covet my visits to the Windy City. Irwin

I'm pretty sure that the "Gitlitz Deli" was located at one of my Uncle Levy's original Deli Spots. The type of location and exterior was similar to many of his shops on Broadway. After the depression he started opening Deli's all along Broadway featuring various Brands of Kosher Provisions such as "Zion", "Hebrew National", "Hod Karmel" and "Morgan David". He often opened stores every 3 Blocks or with restrictive conditions that would not allow other store carrying the same "Brand" within a 10 Block radius. That was why he opened stores with different Brands every few Blocks. It seems that during that time frame customers had Brand preferences and loyalty. I remember him telling me that he regularly had a waiting list of Clients who wanted to open stores on Broadway with products from a specific purveyor. He apparently opened about 55/60 Deli's all of which he financed, had a crew who taught many buyers how to set up and operate the Deli's. He also had arrangements with suppliers who serviced the stores with Breads, Salads, Condiments, Linens and Beverages. It was very much like Franchises but he actually provided more services as it was important to him that every store operated profitably to pay their mortgage and fees. There were stores still operating in the 1950's with original families still doing business. I am curious if any are still open today. He sometimes needed to actually turn over various stores several times until he was able to find the right match capable of operating successfully at each location. I wish that I had spent more time talking and learning about his business especially since no one in his own family had any interest or involvement. I do wonder how many eGullet posters have been effected by his business acumen. He used to say that after he opened the Deli's and the everything else followed in the next few years it became a neighborhood. Irwin

Irwin, the fiddle head ferns that grow in the wild in Sarawak are slightly different from fiddle heads that I've bought here. The stalks are more slender, and after cooking, they are more tender, and not as "nutty" in flavor. We call them midin, and according to the Sarawak forestry department, the botanical name is Stenochlaena palustris. As far as I can tell by googling, Stenochlaena palustris is native to India, SE Asia, Australia and Samoa. I've been told some varieties of wild ferns are poisonous. Did you get lucky or were you with experienced "pickers"? ← Laksa: I didn't get lucky as I was familiar with the Fiddle Head Ferns avalable in Hong Kong and Bagio in the Phillipines. We featured them at several Hong Kong Restaurants when available. I had eaten but not examined or prepared the northwest variations served at the "Four Seasons Restaurant" in NYC. I am not aware of any variety of Fiddle Head Ferns being poisonous, but I appreciate the warning about Ferns in general and will Google for information. Thanks again, Irwin ← I found out that some of the varieties of the Fiddlehead or very young fern buds may sometimes be mildly toxic if eaten raw or not cooked enough in the domestic varieties. I could not find any information about the Asian Fiddleheads but didn't Google except superficially IE Latin Names, Etc would provide more info. I did know about all mature ferns being bitter and not edible for that reason. Irwin

Irwin, the fiddle head ferns that grow in the wild in Sarawak are slightly different from fiddle heads that I've bought here. The stalks are more slender, and after cooking, they are more tender, and not as "nutty" in flavor. We call them midin, and according to the Sarawak forestry department, the botanical name is Stenochlaena palustris. As far as I can tell by googling, Stenochlaena palustris is native to India, SE Asia, Australia and Samoa. I've been told some varieties of wild ferns are poisonous. Did you get lucky or were you with experienced "pickers"? ← Laksa: I didn't get lucky as I was familiar with the Fiddle Head Ferns avalable in Hong Kong and Bagio in the Phillipines. We featured them at several Hong Kong Restaurants when available. I had eaten but not examined or prepared the northwest variations served at the "Four Seasons Restaurant" in NYC. I am not aware of any variety of Fiddle Head Ferns being poisonous, but I appreciate the warning about Ferns in general and will Google for information. Thanks again, Irwin

I found some "Fiddle Heads" growing in suburban KL in a park with a running stream that actually seemed to have many imported trees and plants that had been growing there for many years. It looked as if it was transplanted from England to the Tropics. We picked a bag full and had it cooked at a friends "Chinese Restaurant" sautéed with Garlic that no one local had ever tried previously [1972]. The Park was near a Freshwater Lake where we caught "Snake Head" Fish on Top Water Bass Lures that were Steamed for Dinner. Irwin

Steven: Having been privileged in being in a position to observe your evolution as a early lurker on your "Fat Guy's" original INTERNET site that I found thru using "Alta Delta" [pre Google] as a search engine referancing NYC Steakhouses when your reviews came up on screen to your progress on "eGullet" I feel that you are more competent, objective and understanding then anyone else in the Food/Restaurant aspects of the business. With you legal ability, combined with your deep wannabe feelings and acquired knowledge and certainly expertise in being a hand's on eater you have a unique approach to anything food or restaurant anything. Again since I was fortunate enough to have been involved with both Craig Claiborne and James Beard while they were still authoring books I am sure that you are destined to bring "Foodie" into the next stage begun by "Paul Levy" in the 1970's and 1980's with a on going series of Books to a much more aware marketplace. What I would personally enjoy in the future would some sort of Eating articles where you follow and re-visit some of the places that Ellen has taken all of us though with your own reflections about the Food but sharing it together. Congratulations on your new Book, hope it a Series. Irwin

The basis for the "Broth" used for the dumpling fillings we made in Hong Kong was prepared as follows: Chicken Feet, Necks and Backs, Pork Feet and Backbones very slowly simmered for several hours. Strain and allow Stock to Chill until Fat rises to the Top, Remove Fat from Top bring Broth to a Boil and reduce. Add some Agar, Agar to Both until dissolved, season with some MSG, Sugar and White Pepper to taste. Chill on Bottom of Steamer Pans until Jelled. Then Cut into Small Cubes and Freeze. Place the Frozen Cubes into the Dumpling Dough and Keep Refrigerated until ready for Steaming. Steam and serve immediately to order. The Agar Agar combined with the very rich Stock give the Broth its smoothness and rich flavor and character. It almost like putting into each Dumpling a spoon of Glacé de Villande but tastes even better if done correctly. Irwin

You do what I did when I lived in Seattle--you get your Manhattan-based blood relatives to ship you care packages. ← mizducky: After living in Seattle 15 years it gets tired, but I agree must be done sometimes. I don't enjoy day old $3.00 Bagels but it's something I need a fix only combined with a order from "Russ & Daughters", or "Zabars" etc becomes a investment. I'm sure that most will agree consolidated with Appetizing, or Deli Treats makes sending Bagels worthwhile. I do get in trouble when I require NYC Corn Bread, Pumpernickel, Bialy's, Seeded Rye, Ruggalah, Babbka and Knishes as it's becoming more difficult to find these items. Irwin

JUST ONE SECOND ! What is someone supposed to do if your living in "Bagel" purgatory such as Seattle. We who are living in this desolate Bagel Hell are forced to deal with: [1] Bagels that are not baked adequately, almost colorless without any browning. [2] Bagels that are only covered on the top side with whatever toppings are used such as Poppy seeds, Sesame, or anything else. [3] Bagels that are delivered and kept frozen then baked by the 1/2 dozen in a Convection Oven and put on display for self service in Bakery sections of Markets. What could one do if they want something close to the real thing but what I am forced to do by this inedible situation. I almost always must cut the Bagels in Half since it requires in my NYC palette that both sides of my Bagel are properly coated with my exterior preference. It's true that sometimes by choice I will have a Sesame top with a Poppyseed bottom, but I also choose to do this even when visiting the "Big Apple" permitted since I am capable of eating both Bagels at one sitting. Irwin My solution to alleviate my guilt in Seattle is to share my Bagels with a partner who only eats Plain Bagels being a purist. I get the tops, she always covets the bottoms. Is this approved ?

We generally enjoy Salted Fish with sides of Black Jellied Sesame, Macau Curried Puffs or Egg Tarts. [All introduced to Asia by the Portuguese] Rambutan [originally spelled wrong] was something that was available fresh this week that I never saw before except frozen in local Asian stores. If any fruit was designated to be served with Salt Fish or Stinky Bean Curd I nominate "Durian". Rambutan deserves being savored all by itself due to it's rare appearance fresh. Something like the family gathering we had this year when for the first time we were able to buy "Tiny Seed Lychee's" in Seattle. That was pure fruit bliss, brought tears to my daughter since she had only dreamed about then for 30 years, now shared them with her three children. Dejah: Today I tried a delicious "Durian Candy" and a "Durian Mooncake" that were both very special and delicious. PM me your address and I'll send some for you to enjoy. "Stinky Tofu" if and when available requires special packing to eliminate the fragrance. [Hah] Irwin

Dejah: The taste for "Stinky Beancurd" once acquired is always a mouth watering treat. Just imagine the effect it would have in your "Manitoba" heart of the Canadian prairie. Just think about firing up a Wok with a Kerosene Burner with Hot Peanut Oil used only for frying your Bean Curd Treat with the slices of Tofu being immersed into the hot oil with that one of a kind fragrant aroma. Brings tears to my eyes and growls to my stomach. I have only indulged 2 times in the last 10 years by insisting friends have it freshly canned [to hide the smell] with the red chili sauce from a Hong Kong Hawker. If I convince any one to bring me some again I will send some to Brandon. Why isn't anyone making this delicacy in Toronto or Vancouver. I bet it would sell well in Flushing, New York located near the street side Kabob Stand. I mean if "Durian" is available year round in Seattle, why not Stinky Bean Curd. Is there any ventilation system that will do the job? Irwin ← Actually, there is a way to make your own stinky tofu at home...... but your neighbour will hate you for that. I read in a food magazine about using old bamboo roots, sesame, black pepper, and juices from fermented vegetables. You need to boil the juices and add the bamboo, then stir in some freshly grounded sesame and pepper. Once the "marinade" is done, soak the tofu in it for 7-8 hours. If anyone is interested in trying it, I would try to find more extensive recipes in Hong Kong Yahoo. Of course, I am going back this year to get more stinky tofu. ← Yuki: There are many types of "Stinky Tofu's" available either in jars or home made, but none come close to the slices of pre-blanched in oil prepared by Hawkers in Hong Kong. These are Slices of the fermented shaped loafs that are lightly fried to keep their shape until put again into hot oil until browned and served to order. I have friends who have tried making this from different types of fresh packaged "Tofu" but somehow it doesn't hold it shape nor have the "Aroma' of the real deal. I know of very few things that are as effective in inundating as large a area as quickly and effectively as street fried "Stinky Bean Curd" could be that the "Curd" stands for "Curdled". I imagine that there is a place in Hong Kong that prepares and sets up the Stinky Bean Curd for the Hawkers to peddle as there is little variation in the finished product sold everywhere in Hong Kong. Today when I went looking for "Durian" I wound up with fresh "Rubitan" [spelling ?] first time I saw this in Seattle. Irwin [keeps my eyes from tearing]

Dejah: The taste for "Stinky Beancurd" once acquired is always a mouth watering treat. Just imagine the effect it would have in your "Manitoba" heart of the Canadian prairie. Just think about firing up a Wok with a Kerosene Burner with Hot Peanut Oil used only for frying your Bean Curd Treat with the slices of Tofu being immersed into the hot oil with that one of a kind fragrant aroma. Brings tears to my eyes and growls to my stomach. I have only indulged 2 times in the last 10 years by insisting friends have it freshly canned [to hide the smell] with the red chili sauce from a Hong Kong Hawker. If I convince any one to bring me some again I will send some to Brandon. Why isn't anyone making this delicacy in Toronto or Vancouver. I bet it would sell well in Flushing, New York located near the street side Kabob Stand. I mean if "Durian" is available year round in Seattle, why not Stinky Bean Curd. Is there any ventilation system that will do the job? Irwin

Ben: Thanks for the information. What I'm still curious about is what varieties of Salt Fish are the ones that are sold directly while standing on their heads in hardened salt at the Hong Kong Salted Fish stalls in all the Markets. They are generally more expensive and aromatic then the other Salt Fish and "Thread-Fin" are only available occasionally at a premium price standing regally in Salt. All the Salted Dried Fish are sold from different stall's then those Fish cut up and sold packed in Oil or various types of fermented or spicy variations. I understand that the selections available in Canada are more extensive then what is available in the States. What I personally miss the most are "Hawkers" selling "Stinky Bean Curd" that my Children watched for daily as a treat in Hong Kong. Irwin

Ben: The "moi herng" if I'm not mistaken is the same as "Thread-Fin". This species is the same Fish that was reserved for Royalty in Hawaiian Culture in the old days. It is also known in Hawaii as "Moi". It's excellent both ways either Salted or Fresh I enjoyed it in Honolulu but was surprised when comparing the actual fish with Salted Thread-Fin were both the same Fish. Even more unusual is the name "Moi" as I haven't seem many other similarities between Chinese and Hawaiian languages. I remember there was a type of Salt Fish in Hong Kong that was more expensive then most others that was always kept standing in Salt with it head immersed until purchased at the market stall. Anyone familiar with that Fish. I so have Books identifying the Fish types from Hong Kong and Shanghai but they are boxed together with other Books. Irwin

Since this thread seems to be diverting from "Salt Fish Heads" into apparently just "Fresh Fish Heads" I feel obligated to mention that tonight I am slowly simmering a Tribal caught fresh "Sturgeon Head" the weighed 16 1/2 pounds before being cut up by the Fish Store in 10 pieces. [Tried cutting one myself last year since Sturgeon is a boneless fish with Cartilage thought it would cut with a Heavy Duty Chopper but it chipped my "Mac" and even my Hong Kong Butcher Chopper needed to be assisted by a Saw to get it done] Just wanted everyone to know that the "Sturgeon Head" makes the sweetest, flavorful and delicious Broth that begins jelling while it cools down and does wonders to enhance any seafood or fish dish acting like a Glacé de Villende where only a spoon or two can enhance Shellfish, Halibut, Snapper or Pomfret to a new level. It even is better then "Chicken Soup" as a healing soup. Wonder if others have experienced this delicacy ? Irwin

I find that first preparing a broth from the head of a "Salted Thread-Fin Fish" with "Pork Back Bones" then allowing it to cool before placing it into The Broth into a large Rice Cooker with Long Grain Texas or Carolina Rice using the broth in place of water, reserving some for the finished dish. While your making the broth I cut some "Boneless Pork Butt" into small chunks and Grind it twice, them mix it thoroughly with 2 salted eggs reserving the yolks and several whole fresh eggs with some finely diced Leaf Parsley and Spring Onions. Cloves of fine diced Garlic, Grated Ginger and White Pepper shaping the pork into a round pancake the size of the Rice Cookers interior [i use a measured waxed paper or Foil Cut Round for this step.] . I then break up some fresh "Soft Tofu" and cover the partially cooked rice with the Tofu just before starting the next step of placing the pork mixture on top. We then split the Body of the "Salted Thread-Fin" into Boneless Filet's and place them on top of the "Pork Patty" leaving room near the center for the 2 salt egg yolks to be placed in a small round indention after the pork has steamed for several minutes on top of the partially cooked rice. After the Eggs are placed into the Rice Cooker it needs to steam until the Rice is done and stand setting for several minutes. We serve this together with a Bowl of the Broth, garnished with Spring Onions and Cilantro Diced next to the insert from the Rice Cooker being placed on a round plate with a serving spoon to dig out the rice together with the Tofu and Steamed Pork Salt Fish and Egg Combination with small bowls of the broth being sipped at the same time. I realize this is different then most ways of preparing this combination but I feel that it is fun, easy to do and tastes real good and is a satisfying enjoyable Rice Course in Cold weather after everyones been active outside. Everyone feels like it's a Party Type Dish. Irwin

I have prepared and made a unusual hot sauce for over 15 years that we called "Insidious" but our staff called "Sudden Death" decorating each bottle with a "Skull & Cross Bones" as warning. It took us several years to perfect that recipe and we used this as a base in our "Honolulu Restaurant" named "Lisboa" where we featured foods from Spain, Portugal, Africa, Asia, India, Goa, South America and Mexico serving some of the woulds spiciest and hottest dishes. This came about because of the Portuguese Black Ships that introduced the Chili Pepper to Africa [Piri-Piri], Asia, India and most of Europe while trying to control the Spice Markets. We served this adapted to star ratings as one star. three stars [Tabasco hot], five stars, eight stars and ten stars. We had a Professor friend do a Scoville Testing of the ten star sauce our hottest after it was shaken and mixed and it varied from 160,000 to 215,000 depending on the amount of oil when tested. We never served anyone a ten star sauce nor served any of the others as a condiment as it was always Incorporated into a finished dish to enhance the flavor and heat according to what our customers had previously proved that they were able to eat and enjoy. The first time any patron requested something hotter then three stars we would not serve then until they at least consumed a appetizer or entry at the three star level unless they were from some background that we were comfortable it was customary to enjoy fiery hot foods. The sauces were really insidious as it took sometime after eating before the heat level insidiously sneak up to your taste buds, generally casing a running nose, tearing and sometimes swelling of your lips but generally it seemed to be effective enough that we had many repeat customers from all over the world. During the week before final exams at the University of Hawaii we would get orders for several dozen of our prize winning "Under the Skin" Chicken Five Stars from Asian and Indian Students who would steam the Chicken over Rice in Rice Cookers where it would be kept warm as a get up and keep going meal while studying overnight. Other well known travelers who owned Islands in Tahiti, Fiji and other areas would bring three star and five star dishes for the balance of their journey from Honolulu to their Island homes to become accumulated to the spicy foods. I most recently made a base now being used in Israel for a Slow Smoked Beef Brisket that has become very popular. About only one out of twenty customers who thought that they enjoyed fiery hot foods requested hotter then three stars. It is easy to just make something hot, but much more fun to prepare something that while being hot enhances and increases your enjoyment of whatever your eating. Still I always wonder about the consumers feelings the following day. Irwin

Peter Luger (Frank Bruni) Soba ← The one thing about "Peter Luger's" customers often either forget or overlook is that if anything you are served is not prepared as ordered "Send It Back" it will be done as ordered without any question. I have through the years returned Lamb Chops, Burgers and Steaks that were most often undercooked, but rarely overcooked and was always pleased with the results. It may be that being a reviewer it was thought it would be better not to attract attention, but as a regular customer you should get what you ordered and are paying for always. Luger's used to be attentive to customers returns with whomever was in charge comparing returned items with the kitchen order slip to validate where the fault occurred. Often the customer may order a doneness that isn't compatible to what Steakhouse doneness is gaged, such as "Blue", "Rare" or "Very Rare"more difficult to judge what the customer want's.

Ben: It's like you were eating with my family tonight. My daughters "Birthday Meal" that I prepared was at her request what Mommy made for us during the Cold weather [65 degrees] in Hong Kong. I made without knowing the name }"Choy Gon Soup" the Dried Bok Choi with Dry Duck Giblets, Dry Duck Web, Dates in a Meaty Pork Bone Stock with some Far Due Wine. For the entrée I prepared Boneless Pork Leg [Top Round] prepared "Braised Red Cooked" that we bring to the table the whole piece covered in it's gravy the cut up table side with Scissors and served. I also made "Baked Salted Chicken in Clay" giving the Birthday Girl the Hammer to do the honor. Served with a Chopped Ginger, Parsley, Garlic, Peanut Oil Condiment. Vegetable was "Baby Pea Sprouts" quickly sautéed served with picked Dungeness Crab Meat in White Sauce over the Pea Sprouts with Baked Quail Eggs as a decorative edible garnish, Our "Rice" was steamed together with "Duck Sausage", "Salted Oil Duck" and "Vancouver Lap Cheong". This was the first time my 3 grand daughters had ever eaten the Chicken or the Pork which the helped me to prepare requesting that we make other of Grandma's dishes together in the future. Will I be able to find any places in Vancouver or Richmond area when I visit Vancouver that serve Toysan ? Irwin :

"BRIAN" You using such fancy word as "Digresses" startled me since I have been trying to convince a NYC Deli Operator to do what I thought you said. I have been doing my best to convince him that if he wanted to become # 1 in Deli/Pastrami and Bagels it would be a real marketing ploy to serve"Pastrami, Salt Beef [Corned Beef]" and imported Montreal "Bagels" to his potential customers who craved the old time taste and flavors not generally available in shhhhh, NYC anymore. When I read your posting I thought it had already happened. Irwin ← It has, I think thats the point! ← Brian & Neil: I phoned my soon to be "Deli" person in NYC who has worked for over 20 years at both the "Stage Deli" and "Carnegie" if he was aware of anyone serving and "Montreal Smoked Beef " according to him there is none being served he is aware about anywhere in NYC. He also asked me if Canadian Beef products are allowed to be imported to the States, as several months ago when he inquired he was told that there was a customs restriction in place for Canadian Beef products, but I thought that ban had been lifted. Now if you are familiar with anyplace that serves it in NYC please advise. I'll have some sent on the excuse of needing a "Pastrami Fix". Every time I see Brian's little Pastrami Picture on his postings I reminisce about the original pictures on eGullet tread. Now if Neil will post a picture of his "Ginger Pudding" with "Hanger Steak" I will have something to anticipate for my next trip to Vancouver. Irwin